JimKB1MCV
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Posts posted by JimKB1MCV
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I managed to get my regained dash and repaired steering wheel and column back in the 39 Packard S-8 along with the somewhat refurbished dash plastic.
Even though the repairs to the Tenite plastic show, I was able take out most of the warping and some of the distortion and maintain the original pieces.
Its a comfortable 50 deg. F. in Southern Maine with most of our snow gone and with an inch of rain yesterday I felt confident the salt was washed off the roads. It was road test time and amazingly everything went very well. A short 45 miles or so on the back roads, filled up with fresh fuel and back into the garage. I suspect winter isn't over yet.
The garnish moldings and the door trim are yet to be grained, hope to get started on that job soon.
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Woodgraining the dash and conserving the original plastic on 1939 Packard Super Eight, painting steering column, general re-fit of shift linkage and trying to make the steering wheel at least semi-presentable. Dash has had toner coat applied/rubbed out and is waiting a warm day for clearcoat.
1939 vintage Tenite plastic hasn't stood the test of time well. It is responding well to carefully applied and regulated heat and epoxy. It wont look new but it will be the original material.
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Terry, as you probably know already, that whistle will use an enormous amount of steam, probably more than any steam automobile could generate.
I've sailed on steamships with similar whistles. A few years ago the market for large whistles was very strong, I have no idea of its present state.
Thats a very nice piece, thanks for sharing.
If anyone had a real urge to annoy the neighbors it could be blown with compressed air but it probably would take more volume than most shop compressors.
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Question: Is using that sealing compound stuff along with new gaskets a good strategy or does it hurt more than it helps? Better off just using new gaskets?
Well, I'm not sure there is an easy or quick answer to that.
In a perfect world with straight sealing surfaces and fresh gaskets installed by careful hands its probably not needed.
In our old car world where we are dealing with machinery thats between thirty-five and 100+ years old, with an unknown and sometimes 'checkered' past sometimes it is needed.
Also, sealing compounds come in lots of flavors and selecting the best for the job at hand can be a challenge. Best thing to remember is that too much can cause some expensive heartburn, i.e. gobs of RTV, Indian Head shellac, Permatex or whatever getting into critical areas (oil or water passages for instance) and biting you in some tender area.
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Jeff
I think heaters/defrosters and other accessories were optional in the years just after WW2. Underseat heaters were a fairly common option on other makes sold in the colder parts of the country , not sure about Pontiacs.
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Try the Studebaker Drivers Club forum https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/
You'll find plenty of Studebaker specific advice there, probably including someone saying 'they all do that', because most of the Studebaker V-8s do . 😁
That said, of course it is repairable, but when the leaks reach the point it looks like yours has, pinning down the specific location will be a bit time consuming.
It maybe as simple as a valve cover leak (easy fix) or since you think it may be coming from the front of the engine, the timing cover gasket or seal may be suspect.
There is an aluminum filler piece that the timing cover and the oil pan bolts to and that looks like where your bolts came from. Being aluminum, it is subject to stripped threads.
There are other suspect areas for oil leaks on that engine. You really need to reference a Studebaker service manual if you are not familial with the marque.
My 55 President (a 259 cid engine but same basic engine) received a gasket and seal renewal late last summer, no more oil spots on the garage deck.
Good luck.
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You may have more response at the Packard Info site
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/index.php
The 38-39 Service Manual has instructions for removing the '39 headlight switch, not sure if the '40 is the same.
Good Luck.
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It is pretty late in the season here in Southern Maine. Still a pretty fine day, though.
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If I recall correctly the Sears-Roebuck Allstate brand was about the only choice for many of the pre-WW2 tire sizes.
I can remember making the rounds to the local garages ('tire stores' did exist at the time but were ~40 miles of back country roads away) shopping for 4.75x19 tires of any description and getting the brush-off or 'go to Sears/Roebuck or Western Auto, kid'
That was in October of 1957.
Lucky for me there were five Allstate 4.75x19 tires underneath the Christmas tree that December.
They were on the Model A Ford when I sold it four years later.
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Dennis offered to sell me the 41 Commander when he first decided to sell it, a year ago last April. I had just bought another car when I got his letter offering it at a price I would have payed. I had to pass on the offer, I'm at my two car max limit.
As you probably know, its rare that Dennis sells any car.
Enjoy the car, its a very nice one.
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Everyone knows Studebaker bought their 289 engines from Ford, Right?
It must be true because its on the internet.
I miss F&J's posts.
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It does sound like either your speedo cable is broken or simply not engaged at the transmission.
I've been following your posts here for a while and I'd like to suggest you find yourself a '50s vintage Motors Manual and spend some time studying the general automobile configuration and repair hints you'll find there. That will give you a deeper background and help you better understand some of the usually excellent advise you will get here.
I really like to see cars like yours being saved and repaired by their owners, and you have come a long way with yours. So many people seem to have lost the willingness to learn anything new.
Good luck.
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This type of meter is more than adequate for most jobs on our old cars. I go to mine, or to a similar Tripplet before my Fluke DVM.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Simpson-260-Series-6-Volt-Ohm-Meter-Multi-Meter-/293159180613
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At the level you have taken this car to, I think I would think pretty hard about accepting this dash. Look over the top of the large (speedometer?) hole and on the upper right corner.
I think the car deserves to be as close to flawless as possible, and this dash isn't. You will be looking at those wavy lines every time you drive the car.
Just a beautiful, beautiful job on this car.
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You know, if this is a prewar 346 Cadillac it may have the notorious 10mm plugs which are known for stripping threads. It may well need a helicoil, which is not a big deal. Good luck.
Jim
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Whatever Matt is doing or has done with the Lincoln, there has to be a good story there and when the time is right I hope he will post it on the forum in his own enjoyable style.
I agree there was a wealth of information lost when the thread went away.
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You are right, Gary.
Sanford Radiator in Waterboro, Maine (207-247-6250) re-cored my 55 Studebaker President around two years ago, 10 day turnaround, cleaned, coated and tested the fuel tank and cleaned and tested the radiator from my 39 Packard this spring. Same 10 day turnaround.
Seems to be a father and son operation, started by the grandfather I think. They relocated out of the City of Sanford a few years ago to their present rural location.
I'm not sure about the hug, though.
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Just for the fun of it, fit a longer length of hose to the discharge side of the pump long enough to fit into whatever you are using for containment, start the car and just go to a fast idle.
Make sure to secure it well because if it does start pumping, the oil will want to go everywhere but the container you are discharging into.
Before going to the expense and work of sending the steering box out you really need to be positive its not working.
Do the easy stuff first, its not rocket science.
Cranking the engine on the starter may not be enough to get the oil in motion.
You may also want to inspect a similar pump on a running car to verify the hoses are indeed not reversed, suction to discharge. They could have been reversed a long time?
If you still have no oil discharge, its possible the box may be to blame.
Good luck.
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I think it may be a tossup between Gould in Holden. Mass and Terrell in Texas.
In January I sent my Packard '39 Super eight water pump to Gould on a Thursday (from Maine) and received it back the next Wednesday. Not as rare as Matt's Lincoln V12 pump, but a one year only item so I had some trepidation about sending it out. Nice looking job.
Had a good fuel pump experience with Terrell last fall.
FWIW the PAC chapter had a tech seminar at the Gould shop in Holden last fall.
Theres always some heartburn sending an expensive part out to be rebuilt. Thats what insurance is for.
Good luck, Matt.
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Terry, I can supply a bit of trivia to your Eagle Lake loco story, and maybe you could answer a question as well.
One of my uncles who worked for fifty years for the B&A (Bangor and Aroostook) RR Derby car (repair) shop in Milo, Maine collected bells. Bells of all kind and description. He and my aunt were avid fishermen (fisherfolk?) and one summer in the early 1950s made the trip into the Allagash to fish and hopefully scavenge the bells from the Eagle Lake locomotives. 'The paper company would never miss them'.
Alas the bells turned out to be too large to pack out, a fact my uncle bemoaned for years. So he missed out on the locomotive bells.
My question is, are the bells with the locomotives today or did the advent of snowmobiles and ATVs make them just to tempting to scrappers or collectors?
This is strictly an academic question, by the way, my uncle and aunt passed in the 1990s.
Thank you for your part in preserving a legendary Allagash landmark.
Jim
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As related above, have a look at the PM site, and if you decide to move it on that may be the place to do it. If you decide to learn to use it there is a learning curve.
I think your machine is a SB 9"Junior model, if so heres a picture of mine which I got from a neighbors widow around 1976 and have used restoring and maintaining several cars. It is surprising how much I use it.
My Junior is around 1930 production, sold originally with a 'silent chain' overhead drive, replaced somewhere in the cloudy past with present v-belt drive.
Jim
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In the radio world 'B+' voltage can be as low as ~70v ('20s and early '30s) to ~300vdc on tube type receivers. Transmitter B+ can run to several thousand volts.
Tube filaments in battery receivers (including automobile radios) usually require 6v. at a relatively high amperage and the 6v. batteries that supply this are called 'A' batteries.
I think this nomenclature dates back to the dawn of radios, which is roughly the same as the automotive dawn.
Most battery radios also require a 'C' voltage, negative in polarity to the B+. 'C' voltage requirements vary with radio design.
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This is where you'll find specific help with your cub project. http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=1
The tank is part of the cowl and will have to come off, not a terribly difficult job depending on how much rust you find on the fasteners. You should have a manual for reference, though. I think there are manuals online, try google.
Fun little tractor, introduced after WW2 to do the work of two horses, which it does.
I use mine for plowing my driveway in the winter.
Good luck.
Jim/KB1MCV
Interesting video on YouTube - good history on the Aurora, Monogram and Revell plastic models.
in General Discussion
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Stuart-Turner launch engine built from S-T kit of raw materials. Kit came from the James Bliss Co. on Atlantic Ave in Boston.
Simple marine engine with Stevenson reversing gear, 7/8" bore x 1" stroke. Also built a Scotch Marine boiler to power it. The steam launch it was intended for has never materialized.