JimKB1MCV
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Posts posted by JimKB1MCV
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Weren't Springfield RR and Duesenberg mostly targeting different segments of the (upper) market?
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I wouldn't be too concerned with the later engine on your car. At one time keeping the thing on the road was paramount and the wrecking yards had plenty of good used engines for not a lot of money.
It might be a good idea to spend some time with Keith postings re his Chrysler products:
His videos on YouTube may interest you as well.
Good luck.
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I guess my reading comprehension must be disintegrating due to old age, I was thinking the head was removed to get at the sticking valves, not that the engine was stuck.
I need to go back and read the start of the thread.
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Exceeded only by the .22 cal. fuse replacement, which must be true because it was on the internet, right?
Well,🙄 there is this:https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/the-bullet-fuse/
Still...
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Actually,back in the day (as much as I dislike the term), Husky was a fairly respectable tool line, maybe slightly
below SK tools in the 'tool pecking order' but not offshore quality. One of the automotive wholesalers I worked for before I started playing with boats sold Husky with no customer complaints.
I suspect HD bought the name, goodness knows where the quality is now.
I always took the 'Husky' sized duds til out of my teens. Never got much flack about that.😁
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If you don't already have one, heres a link to the owners manual, which doesn't answer your question.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/archive/content.php?op=&catID=15&ContentID=171
I don't see instructions for checking the Ultramatic oil level, just instructions to have the trans serviced at your Packard dealer.🙄
Interesting that a couple years later they moved the dipstick and fill up under the hood.
Enjoy the Packard.
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You mat want to approach your problem a little more systematically, Studejoe.
Heres a link to a problem that took some serious diagnosis:
I would be rechecking your valve lash adjustments, too loose is better than too tight. An old saying in the business is "a clacking valve is a happy valve". Your low vacuum numbers kind of point that way.
If you don't already have one a Motor's Manual for your year could be a lot of help.
Also you may find a more Stude-focused audience here: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/
Your 259 should have more than enough power on the roads, my 55 President (a ~60k mile car) has given me many miles of road traavel.
Good luck.
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Heres a video of the Lombards running at the Bradley Logging Museum.
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My '55 President exhibited the same wheel cover shedding on the left front only, cured with some blobs of silicone on the retaining clips.The silicone wheel cover treatment also is effective on 'walking' or rotating covers threatening tubeless valve stems, a problem I have had on Larks.
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Heres a very well written and interesting book on old-tech radio repair by an old car guy of a previous generation.
https://www.amazon.com/Fixing-Up-Nice-Old-Radios/dp/1886996563
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16 minutes ago, Roger Walling said:
I went through the trouble of replacing my non working 55 Chrysler radio with a wonder bar radio and when I was done, all that I could receive was two stations. Both of them were not in my liking so I never turned it on again.
Don't waste your time, install a hidden FM radio somewhere and enjoy. 👍
You're right, of course, but the dearth of listenable AM stations seems to be regional, there are some 'Old time' music station in the Northeast and even a few rebroadcast recorded 40s and 50s programing. Not a lot, though.
A second hidden FM/Bluetooth radio is my preferred alternative to gutting the original radio and making it into something it isn't.
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9 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:
Not sure what you mean. I am guessing a 2 foot long breaker bar.
A Johnson Bar is a brand name of a pole with two wheels for moving stuff around on the floor:
I think Mr. Johnson has been around a while.
Steam locomotives ( I think) have a Johnson rod which controls the steam admission valves and being an old sailor I can't help mentioning its a nickname for part of the male anatomy that isn't usually mentioned in polite company. 😀
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You may find you are at the mouth of a whole new rabbit hole, Mr. Reed. 😁
The link Padgett posted above will get you to Sams service notes and a schematic, but the information is orientated to 1950s service techs.
It isn't rocket science but it can get a little complicated, to say nothing of time consuming.
If you don't want to develop the skill set to tackle the job there are folks on the web who specialize in this type of radio.
If you do decide to get into the job the should be help here: https://antiqueradios.com/forums/
Whatever you decide, have fun.
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The ebay listing is pretty much a bargain.
But 😄 not to pick nits, the profile of the box ends is very heavy and will limit the usefulness of the set. ( Just an observation ).
The better (Proto and probably Snap-On) are almost works of the tool-maker's art and probably priced that way, too.
Sorry for the drift.
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I've had the 'ignition' wrench set for many years as well but have found many uses for them outside
automotive ignition work. Should be part of any serious tool box.
I even have made up several open end wrenches sized down the ~ 1/16" for special projects in old radio and firearm repair. Not hard to make with the right selection of files and some patience.
Congrats are due, Keith, on the new Chrysler, I know you've been looking a while. Your videos are very well done. Enjoy the car.
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The first tractor I remember on my folk's (part-time) farm was a dual fuel (iron wheeled) Fordson, vintage (probably) in the early '20s.
It came to us in pieces on a flatbed truck and was a nights and weekend reassembly project of several weeks.
It was a beast to handle on the rough hilly and rocky central Maine acreage, somewhere between hard and impossible to stop on the downhill and had a tendency to want to rear up on its rear wheels pulling uphill.
It was replaced with a Farmall in pretty short order.
I never 'bonded' with farming, I went to sea to escape.
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What up with the Thompsons? 🙂
Don't know whats up there but I see Thompsons or toy plastic look-alikes at shows and in online pictures more often than I'm comfortable with.
For one thing it feeds the mis-conception that every pre-war sedan is a 'gangster' car and it feeds the 'cool toy' image of
firearms at a time collectors and recreational shooters are feeling the regulatory noose tightening on the hobby.
Maybe its just me. 🙄
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Somehow I suspect FDR had quite a lot of other things on his mind at this point in history.
The show is something I might watch for the backgrounds, cars and ships. Kind of tired of flashy celib-worship fiction (semi-fiction in this case).
I spent time in northern Norway in the early 1960s when the resistance was not a faded memory and many of my mentors still re-lived the convoy crossings they made in that time frame.
The only slight friction on my ship was between the north and south Norwegians. The Bremerhaven contingent got along with everyone. 😄
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In the early '80s I liked my Sevilles til I bought my first Saab.
But the question I have to ask is: Who was Ralph Williams and what was his motto? 😁
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All, or most of the comments I could make have already been made.
I first subscribed to HMN in the late '70s and it saw me through a multi-year restoration of a '41 Cadillac series 61, and I kept up my sub probably til the early '90s. In the early '90s I went through a several-year sorting out project with my '31 Ford Victoria, let the sup lapse because I was narrowly focused on the Victoria.
In ~2012 I was in the market for another car so I took HMN's on-line subscription and was not happy with it, did not renew.
Times change, I guess.
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The vacuum advance not working could cause the symptoms you're seeing.
I'm assuming 😀 your distributor is the type that is moved by the VA, if its not then the VA should be moving the breaker plate, one or the other. If it is nether, it could be one of your problems.
The carb float level should be 5/8" according to my Motor's Manual, I think you have or should have a BX-O26 Stromberg carb there. Should be easy to check.
I'd like to see the engine have higher vacuum numbers.
Good luck and good hunting.
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I think you mentioned that you have changed the vacuum advance.
Can you see the distributor moving when you increase RPM on the engine?
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Its a small museum but with a dedicated and knowledgeable staff. Worth a visit.
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Please let us know how they work out.
I tend to be pessimistic about 'fits both' tooling but I'm willing to be convinced.
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Searching For A Restoration Shop. But . . .
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Years ago I relieved the Chief on a tanker which was built in 1934.
Behind the main switchboard (it was a slate board, 240 DC power) were two boxes marked "Blown Fuses" and another marked "Burned Out Light Bulbs". ☺️
I asked the Chief when I saw him again what he was saving the fuses and bulbs for. The answer was, "Well, you never know...".