kclark

I have already talked to one of the local DMV inspectors, I have known him for over 20 years. NC doesn't use and will not use the engine stamp and he is a by the book guy.

I have a diamond drag engraver right beside my laser engraver, but I figured stamped would look more authentic. I was contemplating buying a stamp set from Harbor Freight.

I have a copy of the Indiana title as I have already turned in the original to start the titling process. I did buy a NOS plate from Steven Munts but I'd have to figure out how to stamp it with the engine number and where to correctly mount it. If I can get it stamped, I could always say that I found it under the seat and it must have been put there when it was originally restored in the 70's.

I put the cable in and the speedo still doesn't seem to work. I know when I had the speedo out that I put a couple of miles on it with the drill and the speedometer, odometer and trip meter all worked. I figure either the cable is not set just right in the tranny or something similar. In looking at the keyhole at the tranny, how easy should that end turn. Can I slide a small screwdriver into the keyhole part and turn it just to see if that end is freed up?

Thank you for the PDF image. That answers and confirms a few of my past questions. Power coming into my switch is on #1 according to the illustration and that is what I have. Headlights on #6 & #4 but still not sure which is high and low. #2 I believe might be blank as they show #2 with the horn but my horn goes straight thru. #3 being cowl/park lights and that's what mine are. #5 being the tail light and that is what I have as well. Now my dim position on my switch doesn't seem to work very well so I basically have 2 options. Since dim lights are not very light of course, I could just wire up the park lights and have those on the switch in the proper position and have my bright lights on the correct position and just not have dims. The way that they are right now is I have my brights and cowl lights both on the bright position and the dims on the park position but of course this is easily changed. Now since I have been tinkering with the switch, I have no brake light so I haven't traced the wire yet (that's tomorrow's work) but I assume that the 6th unknown wire goes to the brake switch and it is wired to the #1 main power terminal but I am thinking that there was only one wire per terminal but I could definitely be wrong. Again I'll know that tomorrow.

Where can one find glycol? I don't know if I'll use it, but I know I'll use some penncool 2000. How full do you get the radiator? I wouldn't think that you would fill it completely up to give it a little room to expand when heated up but possibly close. But I'm not sure that's why I'm asking.

starlightcoupe, I was ready back over some posts including this one. I reread the above post and I guess I missed it. I have yet to find a Stamped Serial Number or an Embossed Body tag. But you state that "It's entirely probably Patrick's hearse...". I don't know who Patrick is, but what caught my attention this time around is the rest of the sentence, "being a coach built professional car never did have a Studebaker body tag...". If this is true and wish I could find evidence of this to show the NC DMV as I do have a Superior Coach Built Tag that is screwed to the seat with a Serial Number on it. If this is what was used on coach built cars, hopefully I can talk to the DMV and they will use this number to title it.

When putting water into the radiator, do you guys prefer distilled water or straight spigot water and how full of water do you run your radiator?

I am now thinking that my #4 is either high or low beam. My switch is not differentiating between high and low. my terminal #6 shows hot but terminal #4 is not. But it 6 and 4 are for headlights, high and low, then I also think that my #2 is for my brake light. If I am reading the diagram you posted an done also posted by keninman, the power for the brake light also runs thru the switch for some reason. Is this correct. I am only thinking this as I did have 6 wires and six terminals and I have accounted for 5 wires (power to the switch, high beam, low beam, park lights, and tail light). And I had my brake light working but now it is not for some reason. I think if I start at the brake switch towards the back of the car and follow the power wire going in to the switch back towards the front of the car, i can see if I end up at the 6th wire that is in question if that makes sense.

That would lead me to ask you if you are numbering your terminals as you see them or if you are using the numbers that are stamped into the side to the switch? The way that mine are numbered are: 1-6-4-2-3-5 What I believe I have worked out is: 1 = Power 6 = Headlight (not quite sure High or Low) 4 = not sure 2 = not sure 3 = Cowl/Park Lights 5 = Tail Light

What you have said and along with the diagram, show 5 wires. I have 6 wires and 6 terminals.

UPDATE The new plastic part that was cut out with the laser works. I still haven't gotten all of the kinks out of the terminals at the switch but real close. The power coming in to the switch was on the wrong terminal from what I can tell. I had it on terminal #2 but seems to work on T#1. The cowl lights seem to be T#3 and Tail lights T#5. So that is 3 out of the 6 wires figured out. T#6 is either bright or dim lights. I'm thinking dim, but can't figure out what Terminal the bright lights should be. So I hooked up the dim and bright to T#6 so I definitely have headlights. so that leaves T#4 & 2 which are the middle 2 terminals and I have one wire left that I have never figured out what it goes to. The only real problem that I have now is my horn doesn't work now. I soldered a new wire to the button on Friday and it was working then and yesterday but not today. So I am not sure if the #6 wire has anything to do with the horn or not but I am thinking not as I didn't have any wires hooked up earlier on Friday and it worked. Just something else to figure out in the end.

I think I figured out the problem. I'll know in just a little bit. But if anyone wants to know what the inside of the lighting switch looks like, see attached photos. The second photo shows the "board" that gives you positive stops. Mine is broken in 2 spots and I have no idea what kind of material it is. So in the last photo, I made an identical one using so material that I had laying around and put it in my laser. It's plastic so it should work. If it does, I'll use it and hold on to the original. I'll continue to look for what should be the correct material to use. If I find some, I'll already have the template in the computer ready to laser it out.

I think my switch is fine but I think the alignment on the inside of it (the stops) are off for some reason as I am not getting a full rotation from park to bright lights. If someone can at least confirm to me the correct connection on the various numbers on the switch. Example, I believe that #3 on my switch is the power coming in, #6 I believe is the cowl lights, etc. If I can confirm this, then I know my lights are wired to the switch correctly.

On my 1929 Dictator, the lighting switch isn't quite working correctly. Does anyone have a diagram that shows what light circuits are on what numbers on the switch to make sure everything is correct. Also, has anyone ever taken one apart to fix it. Or does anyone have one for sale?

And also, would you happen to have the instructions for replacing the parking brake band woven material? I have just the woven material coming in the mail.

I can open them just fine. And I realize that the illustration letters go along with the illustration, but I was also interested in knowing what is labeled part is actually called.

Is there a place in the book that tells me what parts the letters are in the illustrations?

Does anyone have a clue about this that can advise me? Well I finally found my answer which is leave the steel disc on the outer tube, However when I was trying to braze the 2 pieces together, the baseplate fell and 2 of the tubes which were HOT, they came off. They are luckily not broke but will have to be brazed back on. I don't think it's a big deal just more time. I think I will enlist the help of someone a lot more knowledgeable than I for the finished product. I just have to find that someone.

I had my gas tank cleaned and lined and the business that did it lost the drain plug for it. I can't figure out what the correct thread is for it. I know a 3/8" plug will work but the ones I've tried have either too fine or too coarse of a thread.

I now have a new baseplate thanks to Steven Munts. My question in looking at the attached picture, do I cut off this steel plate from the outer tubing before welding the new baseplate to the tube?

I bought the Blue Magic from the old Amazon pretty easily. came 2 days later via Prime.

I am finally looking into this brake good. I can't find a diagram of the parking brake so I'm still scratching my head a little. I think I understand what dictator27 is saying but not quite certain. Attached are some photos that I took last night. One thing that I did notice is the band material for the brakes is very brittle. It seems to be like cork or something not quite sure. I know this needs replacing but where can they be gotten?

There it is. I was looking under Studebaker. But this brings up a question. should my wiring be the metal sheathing or the braided wiring? There was an older restoration done on the car, so I'm not sure if they kept the original or put new/different in.

I looked at their's, but I never saw a wire with metal housing. Below is the best picture that I have of my wiring right of the bat to show you.