29hupp
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Posts posted by 29hupp
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Thanks for the Deep Creep suggestion I will get some to see if it makes a difference. As for the hole it does not go through. I have tried at least six kinds of penetrating oil in the area between the ring and handle. I would put a few drops on it every time I thought about it through the winter. I'm giving some thought into trying to make a custom spanner wrench in the form of a clamp with multiple pin locations that I could use to turn the outer ring. I truly do not think the threads on the outer ring are the issue. I feel the problem is the pot metal is tight against the outer ring.
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I am restoring a 29 Hupp and I am stumped at how to get the window cranks and door handles off. They have a threaded outer ring that when turned pulls the handle onto or off of the spline. Some of the outer rings appear to be brass but some look like pot metal. The outer ring is meant to be turned with a spanner wrench and is held on with a wire ring. I made a spanner to fit but none of them will budge. I am sure the pot metal has expanded causing it to seize. The picture of the handle with the chewed up ring is one that I bought years ago that someone unsuccessfully tried to get the ring off.
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They will help you in any way they can. There is an incredible amount knowledge that can be obtained. Many purchased parts cars to aid in a restoration and may have what you need
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The best source for Hupmobile parts is belonging to the Hupmobile Club. They publish a "Parts Locator" that is far better that scrounging the internet or flea markets.
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FYI miles apart but similar.
https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/3954-atl/1931-hupmobile-coupe
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A friend of mine last week was telling me that him and three other friends were at a large flea market where he found some oddball part he wanted that was grossly overpriced. He made a reasonable offer that was refused. He then had each of his friends make the same offer 30 minutes apart. He went back a little later and bought it for his original offer.
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Steve, Your bodywork skills are impressive.
Dick Arnett
29 HUPP
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Just bought 2 gallons of Aircraft Stripper a Rustoleum product at Advance Auto Parts in Walton KY. Cleaned the
m out. Discounted price.
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I would sure like to see close up pictures of all those 50.00 bearings.
I had most of a spare engine so at $50 per bearing I did both engines. I had the crankshafts turned on both before having the bearings done. One engine is assembled and running in the car and the other has the crankshaft installed without the pistons. FYI he line bored both at no additional cost I just needed to go help him lift the engines.
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Eastwood makes a Power Coat chrome. Requires curing in an oven. The advertisement sounds good but I have not tried it.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-extreme-chrome-bonded-powder.html
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Steve,
I admire you for taking on a project like this yourself. I have a 29 Hupp A sedan that started in a similar condition. It appears you plan on doing the lion’s share of work yourself as I am doing also. Curious if your engine transmission upgrade is by default. I almost went the same newer engine route when the first restoration shop I got a quote from for new bearings was $13.500. Fortunately I later found a man that only charged $50 per bearing. I had the same issue with removing the door hinge pins but wound up removing the hinges completely where I could turn them upside down and drive the pins out. Looking forward to see how you progress.
Dick Arnett
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I plan on installing the top material myself. So far every thing on restoring this car has been done by myself including making some fairly complex engine and drive train parts. I have become self taught at castings and machining several parts. The only one judging the car will be me. I just want a nice looking (to me) and reliable car that runs well that I can drive as much as I want.
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Thank you both for the great help. I ordered from Snyder's.
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I am in need of top material for my 1929 Hupmobile sedan. I need a minimum of 63 inches width and the widest I can find is 60 inches. Any help would be appreciated.
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I made a 33 Plymouth rat rod with a 56 Desoto 341 Hemi in in it in 1964. I sold it about 3 years ago with a few extra parts. I am told that he sold it last year but he may still have the parts. The guys name is Ben ?. Burlington, KY 859-630-2184 Nice guy.
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It would probably be difficult to install a distributer with an offset tab 180 degrees out
but I can almost guarantee that there is a gear that the tab inserts into possibly on an oil pump that is driven off of the camshaft that can be installed to make the timing 180 degrees + or - off. More information on the car would be helpful.
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I would try putting a dab of whiteout on the timing mark, taking the plugs out, take a plug with the porcelain center broken out with a balloon fitted over the top of the plug, install the plug with the balloon in number 1 cylinder, hook up a good timing light to a 12V battery, turn the lights out and crank the engine. You should easily be able to observe light flashes when the balloon inflates and check the timing to see how close you are to TDC.
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Looks to me like a (Ladder Jack) which mounts on the underside of an extension ladder to hold a walk board.
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2013 Chevrolet, dealer wants $450 to change a headlight bulb. Front bumper plus other stuff has to be removed to change the bulb plus bulbs are $50 for the cheep ones or $85 or the better ones.
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The Filling Station rents the tool for $15.00
1926-37Installation tool, door and trunk ferrule. For allGM cars & trucks using door handle ferrule. (C-111).Without it ferrules are very difficult to install. Buy or rentthis tool. You may return the tool, in good condition, andreceive a refund of $30.00 - if returned within 30 daysof purchase. You must include a copy of your originalinvoice to receive your refund. -
Wow! I am impressed at your ability to draw the parts with that much detail and accuracy to the original parts. I needed a horn button for my 29 Hupmobile and 3D printed one. Most of our local library's have 3D printers that are free to use and you only pay for the material used. My horn button cost me 80 cents.
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions and I seriously considered most of them. I finally decided to try and tap 10x32 threads a reasonable distance from the hole and put a patch with a gasket over the hole. The thickness of the casting for all holes is about 1/8 inch. Drilling and taping in the confined area was a bit of a challenge which added a couple additional tools to my collection. I used a piece of 1/4 inch thick stainless with a Water-Resistant Low-Pressure Rubber/Cork Gasket Material rated at 235 degrees and a Loctite Gasket Sealant for Flexible Seals. Attached is a picture of the repair. It will take me a while to get the engine flipped back 180 degrees and back in for testing. I also need to order some replacement gaskets.
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Thanks David I agree that JB weld would be better than a gasket and I surely hope I would never have to remove it.
Door handle Help Please
in General Discussion
Posted
I have a spanner that I purchased from McMaster and had to file the pin to fit the hole. What I plan to make is a custom spanner that fits the outer ring perfectly and clamps tightly around the ring. I think that will give me the best chance of turning the ring without defacing it.