lhend50
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Posts posted by lhend50
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22 hours ago, kgreen said:
I noticed that your bracket didn't have the hole required for the spring and rod. Off chance question, is the rest of your transmission correct for the car? Have you owned the car long? wondering how the shifting was managed in the past.
It is the correct trans, however the bracket I posted is not the one on the trans, I will try to get a photo of that. The bracket in the photo is the one that is on the bell housing. I bought this car 40 yrs ago, but it was partially disassembled then. I had motor rebuilt, back in car, shift ok. I only drove the car around the block a few times, then sold it. Bought it back 6 years ago. pulled motor again, lifters in one cylinder were frozen. had all lifters replaced and while it was out, had transmission completely rebuilt. I still feel the issue is where the missing shoulder bolt goes into the bell housing, there is a great deal of play in that bracket.
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11 hours ago, EmTee said:
I am using this in my '38 Century's transmission:
Thanks, I actually found GL! 90 at NAPA. Not on the shelf, but they had it upstairs.
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On 7/17/2023 at 9:51 AM, kgreen said:
Thanks for the photo. The bolt should be a shoulder bolt. This is a photo of a parts car that I documented on disassembly. See the L-shaped piece? This example has two springs on it but should only have one spring. As you can see, this keeps a counterclockwise rotation pressure on the lever which should solve your "dropping down" problem.
Thanks, shoulder bolt was the name I was looking for, now to find one that works. My transmission bracket is a bit different, but, I do have a spring on it. I have a second bracket from another trans, that looks like that one, but the hole is too small for the rod. At some point, someone must have changed the rod.
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22 hours ago, kgreen said:
Phillip, can you share a photo or two of your concern? I don't understand your problem as the shift linkage is not in anyway connected to the bell housing. The clutch petal pivot shaft is, but all the linkage traces directly from the steering column to the transmission.
This is the bolt I am talking about, Bracket should be angled upward, one rod goes to the steering column the other goes back to the lever on the transmission.
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10 minutes ago, Stude Light said:
GL4 or GL1 90W are both fine choices too.
Thanks, that I can find.
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I have seen people suggest an 85/145 gear oil. Also GL4. I have looked for a GL4 oil with that ratio and have not found it. I can find royal purple in 75/145 but it is GL4 and GL5 rated. Is this usable. If not, the only GL4 I find has a weight no greater than 90. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Trans has been completely rebuilt.
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Hi, I am looking for the correct bolt for the bell housing shift linkage on a 1940 Buick 76S. I know the bracket is in the wrong position, it keeps dropping down even though I have the spring on the transmission linkage. Any photos would be helpful as well.
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Hi, I am looking for the correct bolt for the bell housing shift linkage on a 1940 Buick 76S. I know the bracket is in the wrong position, it keeps dropping down even though I have the spring on the transmission linkage. Any photos would be helpful as well.
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8 hours ago, DrumBob said:
The seller wants $40K in cold, hard cash? That's a tall order. Sounds a bit arrogant.
Funny a friend of mine always wants cash. In the little town I live in, it would take the bank several days to be able to give me 40000 in cash. A couple of years ago, I wanted 25000 in cash. I was dealing with a local BOA, they said it would take 4 days to get that much cash for me.
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I don't know a thing about these cars, but, it is a nice looking car for the late 40's.
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On 6/30/2023 at 9:15 AM, Matt Harwood said:
If you think you can buy that car for $25,000, buy two and I'll gladly take one off your hands.
I agree, I will take the other one off his hands.
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10 hours ago, TerryB said:
It look like the paint on the left and right rear fenders doesn’t match the rest of the car. Rust repair?
It is a terrible paint match. Most likely rust repair.
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Well, I ended up putting the motor in, in one piece, really went in quite easily. The tilting jig and a floor jack under the drive shaft let things line up well and it slid right in. Newly painted firewall came out unscathed. I put the motor mounts in after the motor was connected to the drive shaft. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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15 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
If you can, I'd recommend installing the engine and transmission as an assembly. We recently installed an engine with the transmission already in the car and it was several days of wrestling, pushing, shoving, re-aligning the clutch, and all kinds of other tricks before it finally dropped home. The transmission on these cars isn't very big and I'm assuming that you have most of the front-end sheetmetal off the car for the job, so install the clutch and transmission before you put it in the car, then it should move into place more easily. If necessary, you can pull the rear axle back to facilitate connecting the torque ball and tube. And as Mark mentions above, get a tilting rig to help with moving the engine into place. It will really help.
Good luck!
Thanks, I do have a tilting rig and all sheet metal is off the car. The more I thought about it, the more a complete assembly did start to seem easier.
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Hi, I am looking for advice. Keep in mind, I will be doing this alone, at least at this time. I removed the motor, trans and torque ball assembly from my car in one piece. I am getting ready to reinstall everything and looking for the easiest way to do it. To me, it looks like mounting the trans and torque ball assembly into the car first, then putting the motor in and bolting the trans up to it. Any advice would be appreciated. I know it would be easier with two people, but, at this time I don't see that happening.
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Have to say, that is a nice looking 4dr car
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It would certainly be the only one at a cruise in.
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Car sold in less tgan a week
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Not Mine, looks like it was listed 32 weeks ago. Lots of photos
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/821279112228634
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Not mine but a cool car. More photos on the site. Says it Runs
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/996756267974530
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Lucus makes a high zinc oil specifically for vintage cars.
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15 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:
I am not the biggest Oldsmobile fan but would happily and proudly drive this one.
It's a Buick, not an Oldsmobile.
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bell housing shift linkage bolt: 40 Buick 76S
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Here is photos of bracket and spring on trans itself. Something is not hooked up correctly.