RichBad
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Posts posted by RichBad
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Finally decided I was ready to cover up the woodwork….
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On 11/1/2023 at 7:39 PM, Mattml430 said:
Made some good progress today on the timber work and just have the top tack rail, floors to make and repair and hang the back doors.
Had a bit of a wrestle with the r/hand back door and wheel arche trying to get it all to line up but it all came together in the end.
will make a new tin floor for under the rear seat.
The Nickel plating is coming along and still have a bit of that to do.
The door guides are back together with new rubbers.
I only had half the little steel caps for the rubbers so I’ve left them out
Front door hardware is all fitted up and all works well and lines the doors up. It’s all screwed in with Phillips head screws but I forgot to take a picture of it to stir up the screw police.
They will be replaced after painting of course.I think I’ve got a tool I used to make those metal caps that go on the rubbers - probably not as good as what you could do but may be a start - will have a dig around for them
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On 5/13/2023 at 11:00 AM, Minibago said:
Rich, do you have a grease point either side of the impeller to lubricate the lip seal? Without lubrication the lip seal seems not to last long.I have spoken to many DB owners having failures of lip seal modified water pumps and now better understand why.
Yea, I retained the original lubrication fittings and even the rope seal - just had the lipped seal as belt and braces. I don’t tighten the gland nut much so would probably leak in it’s own but holds some lubricant and helps the lip seal.
I thought modern car pumps have a lip seal - perhaps modern coolant has some additives to help with lubricant? The small shaft size on the dodge probably doesn’t help.
cheers,
Richard
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Is there a reason why the ceramic seals are typically used on the Dodge pump mods rather than a lipped neoprene seal like modern pumps?
I used a lipped seal on my pump but it’s a later model and perhaps there isn’t space in the earlier pump housings? I guess the ceramic style ones would also work on a worn shaft as don’t rely so much on the shaft for sealing?
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Matt on the go slow = faster than most. Hope you’re feeling better!
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16 hours ago, Minibago said:
Clive has been unable to sell his business so he has just closed the doors, very sad, a huge loss.
That’s a real shame, I must have got in just in time in December. Not many places left that have the equipment, skills and knowledge. You’d think someone would have at least bought up the equipment and stock
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Hi Brian,
Here's a picture of mine - I machined the housing and also the pinion nut. With the bore machined to take the 85mm OD seal, it was a little under the diameter for the original metal retaining ring (you can just see the lip in the photo)
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Both will be fine to use, use whichever one is easiest for you to get.
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On 4/24/2023 at 6:33 AM, 1930 Kram66 said:
Lots of good information contained here. Not just for Buicks 😀https://forums.aaca.org/topic/343452-antique-car-convertible-top-replacement/?tab=comments#comment-2078427
That’s a great article, thanks.
It doesn’t have a huge amount on the positioning of irons/bows other than the importance of correct positioning. With no pattern to work from this is what worries me most as it sets the overall look.
The bit on having the top edge just over the top frame and having parallel with the top of the doors is good, that should help get the position of the irons then just need to set the bow heights.
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I replaced mine with a modern double lipped seal. From memory i machined the housing to take it but could still fit the original steel retainer so it looks correct.
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Thanks:). Yea, see what you mean with the second bow being a little higher. The rear is vertical in both, I was in sure about that too so that’s good.
side screens are nice in the first one too.
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Any tips on setting up the top bows? I’ve got some old bows to play around with but not sure about the best positioning and order to get it all
setup so looks good when fabric is fitted.
cheers
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12 minutes ago, Mpgp1999 said:
After cutting the seat I lapped the valve in. I had to shave the stem.
Oh jeez, tell me you’re not cutting and lapping that valve with everything else exposed. I don’t think your rings will need extra help bedding in!
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Hi all,
been a while as I’ve been busy enjoying my Dodge and haven’t done any work on it for a while. Finally decided it’s time to finish it and cover up the wood work - interior trim is now done and am now on to the last job of the roof.
I’ve got a set of irons which aren’t perfect but I should be able to repair and adjust to suit but wanted to check for advice on setting the correct position for the irons and bows. I assume the main run of the frame runs parallel to the top of the doors from the front bow rearwards but not sure about the rest. Any tips and tricks?
I’ll sort the frame and bows but not brave enough to do the trim myself. Still trying to decide if I go with black or light top but perhaps I’ll go something different :):)
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Thanks. I’ve got no problems making custom ones just wanted to get an idea of what they look like. Also wanted to confirm if the number of sockets that I have is correct as I have one at the rear of each door, one in the “B” pillar and one at the front of the tub section.
Bob gave me a call today and said the locations I have are correct and he was going to try and find some photos.
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Hi all,
Finally getting round to finishing the trim on my Dodge and am fitting the side curtain sockets. I’m trying to figure out what the side curtain frames should look like.
My car has the single mount point (with square hole) for the curtains i.e one socket in each door. I think they just had a single upright post so the curtains could be rolled up.
Does anyone have any photos showing this type of curtain?
Mine is a Holden (Australia) bodied 1927/28 series 129 Tourer but I’m sure other models/years would have had similar arrangement.
cheers!
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Awesome, we’ll done! It’s a great setting to show the incredible work you have done.
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Fantastic, great news a - well done Ron!
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Thanks Ron, are there any brackets it slides through or just a slot in the wood?
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Looks good Ron. Do those door straps slide on the a pillar side or are they solid on the door and A pillar?
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Jeez, that oak top looks heavy;)
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Awesome!
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Nice one, looks awesome!
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I think the only way to get it back to zero is remove the drum and disassemble then re assemble at 0/0/0/0/0. Just pay attention when you pull apart as there’s a few parts in the drum and the order of assembly is important.
or you put it in a drill and keep it running till it gets back to 0.
Club coffee car project.
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Well organised Matt - keeping that many people busy for the day takes a lot of prep!