Hazdaz
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Posts posted by Hazdaz
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2 hours ago, RivNut said:
Your local automotive paint jobber should have a spectrophotometer that can analyze the color for you.
I know Home Depot and Lowes has those, but never assumed that automotive paint places would. Not sure why I assumed that. I'll have to find a local PPG or HoC guy around here.
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On 4/18/2020 at 10:28 PM, anestech* said:
Took her out today after a couple months down time fixing coolant, oil, and ps leaks.
Maybe I've asked this before, but what blue color is that? Mine is a flat blue but it was painted before I got the car and I don't have any paint codes. The shade of our two cars looks similar. I've been told mine is a Toyota blue color, but that's as much as I know.
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Haven't driven my daily in like 3 weeks but took the Riv out yesterday because we just couldn't take it any longer (was almost 60*). Didn't actually leave the car, but it was nice to leave the house. Working from home is OK, but it can get on your nerves because you always feel like you are "on" - there is no home/work life separation which is annoying.
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Corrosion or grounding issue.
I almost guarantee it is one of those two things.
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On 3/22/2020 at 6:35 PM, Buffalowed Bill said:
Has anyone found one of the classic car insurers willing to accept and agreed value of $60K?
As others have said, hagerty won't even question it.
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If you guys are talking classic car values, you might want to take a look at this chart on BaT:
https://bringatrailer.com/buick/riviera/
I think BaT is a much better indicator of values than auctions which might have anomalies and/or extreme examples (i.e. like extremely nice examples or heavily customized ones). Most of the ones on BaT tend to be in good to great condition, so they don't reflect the mistreated examples you might find on Craigslist or eBay. Looking at that chart, the sweet spot is between $10k to low $30k. There are a few that have sold for a lot more than that, but I consider those outliers.
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The part where he mentions the Riv is about 1/2 way through. He likes quirky automotive stuff and I found it pretty interesting to watch. It's mostly about the Buick lineup itself and not aimed at just the Riv, but figured at least someone here might find it interesting as well.
I believe there was a thread on here a while back on Rivieras in the news or other random sightings. I couldn't quite find that one, so figured I'd post a new thread instead.
Stay safe, guys.
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I think like Seafoam suggested that the data is not correct.
Another option is that maybe, just maybe where the length is measured from is different. For instance, maybe regulations changed and one year you included the length of the entire car, while the next year they didn't count the length of the little bumper add-ons. Kind of like how pre-1972 power was rated as SAE "gross" horsepower (at the crank) vs the way it is rated now (net power). The same engine would give vastly different numbers if it was using one metric or the other.
If you are looking to expand this chart, I would be curious to see how other dimensions changed throughout the various generations. The width and height will be interesting to see, but also the wheelbase for older cars has dramatically changed over the years for all cars, so curious how that evolved in the Riv.
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I have this head unit:
https://www.classiccarstereos.com/1963-1965-buick-riviera-radio-usa-230.html
Which unfortunately doesn't have bluetooth, but luckily does have an AUX jack. So then I use this AUX to Bluetooth adapter to connect my phone to the headunit wirelessly.
And I use a 3D printed mount so I can hold my phone in position so I can stream from it. In this photo its an older phone and my current set up doesn't need any wires connected.
Right now I only have one speaker, but I'd like to solve that problem eventually. I don't know too much about amps and subwoofers, but its something I'll consider looking into eventually.
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On 2/15/2020 at 4:10 AM, RockinRiviDad said:
...HazDaz said it best. The “Us vs Them” mentality or segregation is not gonna do the classic car community any good
Post like yours are exactly what I was thinking of when I wrote my complaint a few days ago.
Some of you guys are saying "oh, well the site isnt really gonna delete these posts" or " we are safe here in ROA-land" but you guys are missing the point. If the rules are there, then the threat is there that you can come in here looking to update your ongoing thread about the disc brakes you added to your car, or the aftermarket paintjob or something like that and find that it has been deleted. Posting pics of a long build and writing up what you did takes time and effort. This is one of the reasons this site is so great because guys are willing to do all that for the betterment of the community (and n00bs like myself thank you guys for all that effort), but you better believe those same guys would be pissed if they found out their photos and instructions were deleted because it didn't meet some silly site requirements about being stock.
It's just a dumb rule to enact even if they never fully act on it. It needlessly creates division.
It's like a local town putting up 25 MPH speed limit signs. As a resident you know they'll never pull you over for going 30 or 35, but the threat is still there that one day some cop looking to fill his quota is gonna pull you over. It just doesnt sit right with me.
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On 2/9/2020 at 10:25 PM, RivNut said:
Not mine but I'm curious as to how many of you have seen a 1971/1972 boat tail with this vinyl roof extension. It was sold by Acme Auto Headling, San Diego. It came as a kit with the pre-cut matching vinyl and all of the hardware for mounting.
Hey Rivnut, according to our new forum rules, these kind of non-stock aftermarket add-ons aren't allowed to be posted on this site any longer.
You are in violation of those rules, my friend.
(of course I personally don't care, but it just goes to show how ridiculous those rules are)
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What is this nonsense?
Many of the old timers who grew up with these cars are dieing off. That's just a fact of life. My car is 56 years old so you'd have to be in your 70s to have owned one when new. There has been a lot of grumblings in the last few years that the younger generation just isn't into cars anymore, and especially not old American classics.
So instead of accepting the few younger people who might be into these classics, but might want to make it their own by modifying their cars to suit their tastes, this community is just going to put the blinders on and turn their backs away from them?!
This is just the kind if "us versus them" mentality that has ruined so many other things in our society. Instead of accepting a variety of groups, let's segment the audience. If you guys haven't noticed, there isn't a whole heck of a lot of traffic on these pages every day, so what happens when this non-inclusive policy kicks even more people off this site?
What's even more ridiculous is where does this policy stop? Parts for these cars aren't exactly plentiful. There is little choice for many other than to use non-stock parts. Does using other GM parts make yours non-stock? What about using parts from a newer car? This rabbit hole goes all the way down and shows just how shortsighted and ridiculous this policy change is.
But what's even worse of all is that I never saw this particular part of the site get overrun by modified cars. Maybe other ones were inundated with restomod threads, but I kind of doubt it, quite honestly. Seeing some non-stock build once in a while sounds more interesting than the same thing over and over again.
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Totally separate switch right now.
Come spring time I want to wire it in with a relay so they turn off when the ignition is off so I don't forget them on which is something I've done too many times.
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It was over 70° today! (for reference its usually in the 30s this time of year)
Couldn't pass that up, so unwrapped the Riv and let the girlfriend take some beauty shots. She's a way better photographer than I am.
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Heatwave in December! It hit a whopping 50° today. Had to take her out for a spin around a bit.
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It's outside my skill level, but if I had an engineless first gen Riv, I'd seriously consider doing an EV swap to it. Find some Tesla motors and batteries and go full electric.
Good luck to the buyer, whatever their plans are for this car.
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Without question the song most fitting the mood when cruising around in the Riv is the theme song to the Sopranos.
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Skies were dark, it was about 55° and dropping fast, and she was filthy as hell, but wanted to take her out one last time this November.
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Saw this a few days ago and forgot to post it.
Most of his videos are pretty good. I think this one is not one of his best, but it still came out pretty decent. I think he should take a crack at redoing a 1st gen Riv.
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Obviously finding the drain is your best solution, but do consider adding a kill switch to your car. Even if you have no battery drain, its a nice safety/security thing.
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How do you adjust the brightness??
And while we are on the subject, how does one reset the trip computer? I know there's that button next to the odometer, but it doesn't look like it does anything. Not sure if you pull it, press it or twist it, and I'm afraid of breaking it.
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I am very happy to hear that this is the other way around because I didn't feel like Dapper should be getting my money.
The driving season is definitely over now, so I'm gonna have to see if they are worth getting come springtime or if tinkering with the LED board I already have is worth doing. I know that the overly fancy lighting patterns from the Easy Performance board is overkill, so dropping that much money on something that I'd mostly set to on-and-off (without the sequential pattern) might not be worth it.
Rivnut, are you going to try these boards out?
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Question for the 1st Gen Riv Crew...
Where would be a good spot to tap off of for the relay for the halo LED lights? I purchased a relay like you guys suggested and I was going to wire it up normally, but the option to use a trigger would solve one of the issues I have in that I am constantly forgetting that the lights are on. Since the switch I am using is mounted right above the radio, I was thinking to maybe tap into one of those wires that is only on if the car is on.
Any recommendations before I have to break out the multimeter and start poking around?
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Those do indeed look cool. I hope they aren't just re-branded Dapper LED taillights though.
Do you actually have these or you just found them?
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Trunk water entry.
in Buick Riviera
Posted
So I am trying to narrow down where water is coming in from on my car into the trunk.
I've been trying to narrow down the possibilities and it has been an on-going problem now for a while. The strangest thing is that the car stays under a carport, so there is no rain actually falling onto it directly (the carport is open from the sides however so wind can blow rain onto the car from the sides). I also have a high quality breathable carcover on it to reduce it even further. Even with that, however I have had water entering the trunk.
I have already replaced the gasket/foam around the trunk lid itself. A year or two ago I even removed the metal trim around the rear window. I checked it out and caulked up any places that looked possibly suspect and then reinstalled everything. At the time, I thought I had solved the issue.
So fast forward to a few days ago. I used some simple clear tape and ran it around the rear window between the glass and trim to temporarily seal up the area, and then I also ran some tape around the side rear glass and trim. I just checked on it and I THINK there was no water in the trunk which leads me to think I've narrowed it down to these two areas.
I have never tried seeing how water might be able to come in from the side rear window. Is there even any way for water to go from that area into the trunk? Would I need to rip out the interior to access it? I am kind of at a loss as to how to get into that area to see.
I'd like to inspect this area first before I move onto the rear glass.