Hazdaz
-
Posts
333 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Hazdaz
-
-
Stupid me. I forced my glove box closed a few days ago only for it not be open any more. I don't think it is actually locked (I never used the key with it), but I think something is jammed into the locking mechanism or latch. I already have the dash/console apart and was hoping I could sneak around the side and pop it open, but they don't seem directly connected. Not sure if it is just the cardboard box or if there is other stuff that separate the two. Access from underneath seems worse.
I have tried using the actual car key and tried turning it, but it won't turn and I am a little hesitant in forcing it and breaking the key off inside the lock and this creating even more issues.
The aluminum face of the glovebox door will get marred up if I try forcing it with a screwdriver, so that is my last resort.
-
-
On 7/29/2020 at 10:05 AM, Barney Eaton said:
It does not take a genius to figure out that electric will not take over everywhere. Even in large cities, how will they handle the charging stations?
replace the parking meters with charge cables? Parking garages with outlets for every space? Maybe they can put a huge charging coil around each level of the garage.
Now talk to residents of the west (California is too far west) will a rancher be able to buy a 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive electric truck to haul his cattle?
Will a 15 year old electric vehicle be as reliable as a 15 year old gas powered vehicle? What about spare parts, I have a 7 year old Garmin and they no longer
have replacement parts...... my chip is obsolete. ...will this be the case with electric vehicles?
I truly hope you realize that engineers have thought about, and are looking into all those things, right?
Just last week Toyota said they were working on a battery with a full recharge time of 15 minutes and a life cycle that would keep 80% of its life after 30 years. 30 years!
Tesla has been researching similar things such as their million cycle batteries. Mind you, that isn't a million miles. That is a million recharge cycles. These are batteries that will outlive you or I. Tesla is also moving their goalposts in terms of what they consider a minimum driving range is and that is around 300 miles minimum. Just a few years ago 200 miles was considered pretty good.
GM is ready to release their new Ultium technology batteries which have many advanced features such as long life and faster recharge times. GMC's upcoming Hummer EV trucks will probably be directly aimed at a market that previously might never have considered going electric.
The world is changing whether people want to admit it, or even embrace it yet or not. No, it won't happen overnight and it is technology that will fit into some people's lives faster than others, but the last thing we need is some of the out-and-out misinformation that I keep seeing online about it.
-
-
Are we really going to do this?
Are we really going to pull some Fox News-level fear-mongering bullplop?
What do large commercial-grade trucks have to do with our Rivs?
And since when have any regulations when it comes to mileage, emissions or even safety have not grandfathered-in vehicles from a previous era?
-
Try contacting these guys:
customerservice@erapaints.com
My car is not painted a stock Buick blue any longer. It is actually a Nissan blue. These guys mixed the color and even put it into a spray can so I could more easily apply it for larger projects. And the kicker is that a can only cost like $35. I assume they can also put it into smaller bottles as well. I can not guarantee they can absolutely match your factory Buick color, but my guess is that they could if you contact them.
I'm not connected with these guys at all, but I had good service with them recently and like to support companies that do good work.
-
I have one similar to this one:
Unfortunately mine does not have bluetooth, so I bought a cheapo $15 AUX to bluetooth converter and use my phone as the music source via bluetooth. I made a simple 3D printed mount for my phone that lets it clip onto the dash.
-
I fill up like ever other week (if not more) because these days I drive it more than I do my regular daily driver.
It doesn't help that the gas tank on the Riv is so small and the fuel economy is so bad.
PWB - I think you should be fine. It looks like gas with Stab-il can last up to 2 years. I would run it a little and fill it with new fresh premium gas to dilute the old gas, just in case.
-
1
-
-
One more update.
I finally got the correct paint and a non-shiny (matte) clear coat put on. The paint is pretty darn close. From some angles it is dead-on, from others it is ever so slightly off (the tiniest bit more green). I tried feathering in the paint as best as I could seeing as how I am doing this all outside. I reinstalled the trim around the window and reinstalled the trim below the window. I used that dum-dum putty stuff you guys recommend. I still feel that there is a special place in hell for whoever invented speednuts, but that is a whole other story altogether. I have done 2 tests with a garden hose to see if any water is coming in and so far the trunk is dry. It has only been a few days though so I am not quite ready to say this has been totally fixed.
The pic shows the color match on the paint after my water test. The rear glass still has some tape adhesive for when I was masking it. The paint sheen is the only minor issue right now. When I applied just the base coat, it was slightly shinier than the rest of the car. I bought matte duplicolor clear coat and that actually was slightly *less* shiny than the rest of the paint which was surprising - I was expecting for it to be too shiny. Not sure if a little bit of very mild buffing will get them to match better.
So that's where I am at now.
-
Are those side pipes? They look kind of small to be exhaust though.
I can appreciate the work put into this thing, but I can't say that it is my cup of tea. Then again, I know my car isn't everyone's cup of tea as well, so there's that.
-
-
I don't know why people love to over-complicate things. Just because something was done a certain way 50 years ago, that's not necessarily the best way today. A small piece of 3M UHB or VHB double sided molding tape is how all modern emblems and badges are put on cars these days.
A $10 roll will last you years.
(comes in different colors and thicknesses)
-
Figured I might as well post up an update.
I think I have stopped any leaks coming from the taillights with the gasket I bought.
Then I moved onto removing the trim around the rear window and below the rear window. That wasn't a huge deal except that it would have been 10x easier if GM gave you just a little more room in the trunk to remove those speed nuts. I was hoping to replace them with a coupling, so you can access it way easier, but the stud on the back side of the trim piece does not look like a standard thread.
I took the trim off the rear window and the silicone that I had put in there about 2 years ago actually looked like it sealed quite well. The only problem was that it was dirty because nothing stops debris from falling behind the metal trim and just collecting in that area (1st photo). I already ripped the silicone off (2nd photo). Is this where you guys were thinking you fill that gap with the Dum-Dum putty? Or were you guys only using the Dum-Dum putty in the holes? I'm fine with using the silicone again because I was shocked at how well it sealed. It basically created one continuous gasket all around the window and even taking it off wasn't a big deal - it came off in long strips.
On the bottom of the passenger side rear glass there was some bubbling paint but luckily only surface rust. Today I prepped it, and shot it with some primer. I'll probably add another coat or 2 of primer this weekend. One of the biggest surprises was finally getting the paint code for my car. Neighbor works at a Toyota dealer and he had their paint department scan the paint and while all this time I thought it was a Toyota color, come to find out the scanner says it is Monterey Blue (MB744.08), a Nissan color. I was quite surprised by that. So now I am looking around to get a can of spray paint and see how that turns out.
One silly idea I have is using 3M UHB double-sided tape to reattach the lower trim piece (the one that is ribbed) below the window instead of using the speed nuts. If I do this, I can cut the 5 studs off the back and fill in the holes that go right through the body. The 3M tape is incredibly strong - that's the same type of adhesive that modern trim pieces are held on new cars, so it should hold that part fine, plus it eliminates 5 sources of water ingress into the trunk. The purists are probably cringing at my idea, I'm sure.
OK, that's quite the lengthy update.
Stay safe guys.
-
So finally got around to dousing the rear of the car with a hose. You can see the results above.
You can clearly see water coming in from the passenger side taillight area. There was also some water on the left, which I'll look into at a later time. That might be the gasket around the trunk itself.
So this afternoon, I used the new gasket that came in and installed them around both light housings. I only installed the one that goes from the chrome bezel to the paint. The one that seals the plastic lens came in too, but since I didn't see water inside the housing, I will save those gaskets for another time.
I will say, that the lens gasket looks super cheap. When I install that, I plan on tracing it out so if I have to make one myself, I will have a template. The chrome bezel gasket was one big long piece of L-shaped foam rubber. I had to put it around the opening and then cut it to length. Not a big deal and it definitely looks more substantial than the other gasket. As long as it seals the water out, which it should, these chrome bezel gasket is a way better deal than the $100 the other company wanted.
The DumDum putty sealant is coming some this this week, so I'll try to do the rear glass then.
Now I ran out of daylight so I haven't retested it after putting in the gaskets, but I'll let you guys know. Maybe this will help others in the future.
-
https://www.mcmaster.com/roller-feeders
Try McMaster.
It's hard to tell how big that is. I'd measure up the diameter, the width of the roller and the size of the stud/bolt that holds it all together.
-
Went for a cruise tonight. Stopped off at a local diner. Thought the chromed-out diner was a cool juxtaposition to the mostly de-chromed Riv.
-
3
-
-
SEAMFOAM65 - so is that dumdum stuff would be applied around the rear glass if I decide to take the trim off again? Is it like a wax or clay type of material?
OK, so it rained, but it rained less than they were predicting.
The first pic is right when I put down the paper towels (before it rained) on Sunday.
The second pic is after a little rain yesterday, and then the 3rd pic is after a small amount of rain last night (the pic was just taken today).
I'm honestly not sure what to make of this. There is less water in there than some other times when he had a ton of rain. But like those times, the car was under a carport and covered with a carcover.
These pics show the results of me taking off the tape from the side rear class, but leaving the tape on the rear glass.
I can only really see a drop or three on the paper towels on the right hand side (definitely not soaked). The weird thing is that the drops do NOT lineup with the edge of the trunk edge. They are further outboard.
I realize that it could hit the car with the garden hose, but I am seeing rain the forecast for Wednesday, Thursday and Friday so I will probably leave things as they are now.
To be continued...
-
4 hours ago, RivNut said:
Put something in the trunk that will let you know where the water is coming in. Something heavy that will absorb the water as is comes in and not just let it come in and spread out on a metal surface. It will be easier to identify the source rather than trying to eliminate the source.
Well I kind of did that with the paper towel taped to that hump in the back of the trunk. If it comes in and rolls down, the water is going to distort the towel.
It's not raining right now, so I might run out there and take up some more paper towels on the side as well.
I was tempted to use some dye or even just magic marker so as the water flowed, it would carry that color dye with it.
-
So I have an experiment going on now.
It is supposed to rain all day Sunday and Monday. What I did is I removed the tape from the side rear window, but left the tape around the rear glass.
If I have water in the trunk on Tuesday, then I know water is going from the side windows down into the trunk. That doesn't totally eliminate the rear window as a contributor, but it will narrow down my problem. I hope. I'm pretty interested in seeing the outcome.
-
3 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:
Don't let your wife lock you in the trunk unless you are on good speaking terms!
What if she's the girlfriend? Not sure if that's better or worse!
-
1 hour ago, gungeey said:
HAZ: the weatherstrip channel up by the drivers side hood hinge...is it my computer screen or is that corner butchered up? Steve
It might be a combination between the image and the fact that there is some blue painter's tape that is holding up that plastic wrap. The blue tape is surprisingly close in color to my paint color which might make it look wrinkled. The metal itself is actually fine there, and the gasket is as well.
-
6 hours ago, Riviera63 said:
I would be leery of tail light bezel to body gaskets that cheap. You need quality in that area. Steele Rubber sells them and they are not cheap. Once you replace them you won't have to worry about that area again. I replaced them on my 63 and they are quality as Steele products are. Link below.
Bill
https://www.steelerubber.com/taillight-mounting-pad-50-0469-15
Cheap?! I already ordered the ones from CARS before I saw your post, but I honestly would have just bought a sheet of rubber over paying $100 for a simple gasket.
I do appreciate your comment though, but a gasket is just a gasket and shouldn't cost $100. If the ones from CARS fail, I can at least use them as a template to cut my own.
-
I've tried to narrow it down. Since there is no carpet back there, it all kind of goes all over and usually pools up in the area where all my junk is in the attached pic. I've gone far enough to tape some dry papertowels onto various parts of the trunk to see if when the water pours in, it passes by that area. When I taped the papertowels on the rear hump, they stayed dry, so it doesn't look like its landing at the top of the hump and pouring down. You can see the paper towels in the pic.
I had also taped up some plastic wrap in the opening as well to see if it was coming through the trunk gasket, but that has stayed dry as well.
I found those gaskets you said. They run about $13/pair and $17/pair for the two types of gaskets. I'll probably order them this weekend just to eliminate the taillights being one entry point.
-
Rivnut, as always, good information. What really is surprisingly me that is if it is getting in via the rear window or trim just below that don't get rained on them directly. It simply can't because there is a roof over the top of the Riv. That is one of the reasons I had been doubting that it could be coming in from there.
telriv, I might as replace those gaskets. I think I found some on ebay the other day for like $15 or so.
Sunday
Monday
Tuesday (today)
Best way to get into jammed/locked glovebox?
in Buick Riviera
Posted
It is a '64.
I'll give your all suggestions a shot, guys. I finished installing new speakers and a sub into the car so I had all these trim pieces apart. Now I could theoretically start putting it back together again and clean it all up except for this glove box issue.