25 Buick
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Posts posted by 25 Buick
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The wooden wheel from a standard with single screw. M
y master wood spoke wheel that's broken, also interested in why the coloum mount is different on it. And the master coloumn and alloy wheel I will be adapting to fit. Anyone with a picture of how the two screw type wheels attach to the timber will be great, otherwise I will recess into the timber to make it all flush. Wheel is glued up now needs sanding filling and finishing, unless someone has a master wheel to swap?
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27 donb thanks. If the wheel is only 1/2 inch difference in diameter I will use on my master wheel. I have the one with wood spokes however one spoke broken at the casting and I'm not a fan of the look. And my other master wheel has the two holes as pictured above. Do they recess into the wheel from underneath?
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Yes thanks Leif for confirming this. Is finding a larger wheel impossible? As in would it be wise to finish the restoration of the standard wheel and sell to buy a master wheel, or would I be hard pressed to find one.
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I am restoring the only wooden wheel I have and it fits the wheel that goes onto the smaller diameter coloumn. A standard.
My master wheel is the Wooden spoke type allthough broken and I prefer the aluminium style for looks. So I have a larger diameter coloum with aluminium wheel but has round flat ends with two holes for mounting.
Is the standard wheel diameter smaller than the master diameter.
anyone have photos of how there master wheels are mounted.
i am thinking to use the aluminium wheel with the wooden outer wheel I have and make them fit. Just unsure if the wooden wheel is too small for the larger 33inch diameter tyres to turn.
bit of a hard way to explain but I will get some photos asap to assist
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Thanks Hugh yes that is what I was referring to. And thankyou Taylor made I'll try that next time.
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Finally I am back to spending my spare hour or two a week on the Buick!
Not much has happened because I have been messing around with bushes and cleaning and painting everything .
put the step rails on and moved the chassis into the house next to my American car. Much to the wife's disgust.
assembled the brake assembled and installed to the chassis.
question.. the part that has a ball on each end that attaches to the end of the brake pedal lever. Does it have a clearance in between both ends or is there something that goes on the end to stop them twisting? Once the exterior clamps are on which will limit movement and twisting but still seems like bad engineering.
Fourth photo.
im not sure how to make the pictures go into my writing yet.
Hard to explain.
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Saw this Buick for sale in Victoria Australia.
I dont think they started out as Utes but quite the farm truck non the less.
this car would have some stories to tell.
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Yes rod, that's the 27 standard for sale. I also have one of those gauges. cheers.
Yes it's a time consuming job I will be doing for a while these darn bushes.
Timber is looking good on yours!
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I have been busy respraying an old jag for a relatives wedding. But managed to get a bit done on the Buick. Repaired and painted the side step hangers noticed they have a little mark stamped in them. And continued working on the many bushes that have worn shafts and some even worn through the bush and into the metal parts. I will have to weld repair and mill these parts out before getting the bushes installed again. Slow process.
Is there detailed clearances for these bushes parts? I have been adding clearances depending on the application but can adapt correct tolerance if there is any documented from now on?
also the snake that eats all the rodents turned up to spend the night in the tree hunting bats. You can see the tree trunk going down is actually still the snake! Fat one.
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Are you in Aus I have a few
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There is currently one of these for sale in Aus eBay
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Mine measure 24inches without splitrim and have a 33inch tyre
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Yes I agree blasting is a better option. I own a restoration business here in Australia. And use that method on customers cars including acid washing of bare steel and coatings on inside rails before paint. But rust cannot grow if it has no contact to air. So one my Buick frame once the loose rust was all removed and acid washed in all areas to neutralise the rust then was por metal prep washed then applied por direct to rust. Then epoxy and high fillers then topcoats.
Allthough it it was a hell of a lot more work I can't see this method failing any sooner than a blasted and epoxy method. But with a labour effort as opposed to a huge sandblasting cost I this area, I chose the por. $100 a tin opposed to a $1500 cost for blasting in this area which then still needs to be correctly prepped before painting. Also this is a budget build and as you all know the costs involved I need to save anywhere I can but without compromising too much.
different story if I painted over rust and not prepared and used correct sealers beforehand. Sandblasting keys the surface and rust forms within seconds if it is not neutralised before painting. The only thing stopping it from rusting further is the seal from quality paints if the paint it pourus then the air gets in creates moisture and rust grows. Doesn't really matter how much rust you seal none or a lot as long as there is not layers of rust where air can be underneath this creates an air gap and lets the rust grow in that area.
there is a lot of myths about treating bare metal on the internet but I haven't had an issue with the blasting treating painting side of things and yes my first time using the por directly over rust but with the theory of removing the air and treating the remaining rust as long as it is sealed I cannot see how the rust can oxidise further.
im sure you will love my next method for rust on parts so stay tuned haha
my two cents
brendan
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If the frame were sandblasted I would have used just an epoxy and topcoats. I used the por15 product because it can go directly to prepared rusted steel.
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Cheated a bit this arfternoon and filled just the bits you see with some high filler to cover the heavy rust pits then sand smooth and sealed all the por15 with an 2k satin black.
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Well not getting much spare time lately but managed to get the frame crossmembers straightened out. And prep ready for paint removing all grease and loose rust washed down with por metal ready and got it in two primer coats of por15. The rear leaf spring perches proved more than stubborn and had to be drilled and split to be punched out. They were badly worn anyway and the spring mount will need extensive repair also. What can I say you guys do a good paint product!! Although not uv resistant and the sun we have plenty of here in Aus I will be topcoating with a 2k gloss black.
Brendan
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On 01/07/2017 at 6:44 PM, 1924 6-55 Sport Tourer said:
25 Buick,
Extra photos as promised.
David.
Wanting to buy any parts except the wheel of this spare wheel carrier will pay shipping etc. if anyone stumble across one in their travels thankyou.
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Well I didn't get very much time last weekend at all to work on the Buick but managed to strip the rest of the brakes and running boards off. Had to straighten the rear crossmember a lot first and then cut it out and replace it found some hydraulic ram that fits the same size. After breaking my 10tonne ram I finally got the chassis levelled and straightened. Now to do the front and get some prep on the chassis ready for the por15 rust prevention paint.
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Thanks David, it's defiantly an original item. I've noticed a few extra bits my car is missing but oh well the search for parts begins
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I have a couple of those type carriers but won't work with wire wheels.
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Rod here are photos showing the timber it's notched around the chassis and is 130mm high in the middle from bottom to top of wood. Sorry didn't realise the photo was so dark. But my upright bracket has side bits that screw to the timber it's not an add on but cast.
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Yes I think some slight differences but this car is an early 25 and uses some 24 parts and even shares some 24 plate numbers although casting numbers are 25. Maybe you have extra step iron for your battery box. Mine has a box but it obviously isn't for the car as under the floor next to the gearbox is a bracket for a battery. I will be using the battery box even if it's not original because I hate having battery's hidden under floors. So possibly I will need to add another step iron.
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i thought that may be the case David. As you can see I have to do some straightening on the front and rear crossbars. And noticed the drivers (right hand side for here ) front suspension leaves are different to the other side and sits lower. Are they ment to be the same or do they bias for the weight of the driver? If that's the case which I don't think is correct I will need to swap sides.
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I will have to check out your wire wheel holder David. But I've got plenty to concentrate on first. I was just going to make one but when I saw your photo above it peeked my interest into if it's a factory bracket?
yes it's a big fat mess but you have to do the dirty to get to the good work
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Buick steering wheel sizes
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Have a look on you tube there is a neat video on there how to make a new one. Very cool