SteveT
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Posts posted by SteveT
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About a month ago I picked up a trailer hitch for the Reatta off Craigslist. Seems the young man had seen drawing and measurements on a Reatta forum years ago and had this one made. Installed that yesterday , and this morning I will wire in the light adapter I bought at Car Quest . I know I cannot haul much , but with remodeling a home my wife and I bought , and getting my Condo ready to sell , I need to be able to haul my little utility trailer with drywall or whatever. And since my other driver is a 1976 MG Midget , the Reatta was elected.
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At least my donor car is sitting with a great running engine and good transmission.
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Me too except the long hair , way too much gone on top for that<like all of it.>
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it will slip if you do not lift off the throttle. If you lift , it drops into 3rd and is locked in. Trans fluid is clean and not burnt. We will try the seafoam , thank you.
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ok , along these lines. I retired as a master mechanic , but my experience is in HD trucks , leaving me not as fluent in auto , especially auto transmissions as i would like to be. I just gave my oldest son my 1989 burgandy/red Reatta to drive/restore and we have found that the transmission is shifting slow from 2nd to 3rd. Fluid is clean , TC seems to operate correctly and there is no slippage or hesitation in any other gear. Is there any logical tests we should do before we pull transmission , or is that our only option.
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Beeswax. I was taught this trick many years ago . Beeswax is one of the most effective penetrants you can use. Heat the area where the sensor threads in , hold the wax against the sensor and watch it wick in. It does not require a blue tipped wrench , a propane or mapp gas torch is sufficient. For 40 years I always had a chunk of beeswax in my toolbox and constantly amazed the younger techs working for me with how amazingly well this works in most cases.
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So looking forward to this . Although my quest with my Reatta , which is my year round daily driver is to stay as stock as possible , my one and only complaint is the high stance of this car. I would love to "slam" mine identical to the picture. As a retired Master mechanic I have the skill set and tools , I will love to gain from your experience.
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Mine rides beautifully with cruise set at 80 mph. Will enjoy that running to Colorado Springs and back to Michigan this summer.
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Personally I am grateful for this forum and also mgexp , both have been a great source of help , ideas and knowledge. I thank our moderators and all others that put so much effort into these.
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I live very close to Lansing and daily drive my 89 , so I get a ton of people that worked at the Craft Center coming up to me. I participate with the MSU racing club and belong to the Mid Michigan British Car club. I will start putting out feelersd and see if I can find anything.
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Iworked at stripping more off my 89 parts car , and decided to put my 89 restoration project up for sale . I have a red/tan 89 dd , and a 90 that I am getting ready for the road. Also a 1976 Midget I need to freshen up the paint on and get ready for summer and a 1970 MGBGT that needs complete resto. Too many projects. Once I get rid of parts car and project car I am going to look for a clean 91 Reatta to add to the fleet.
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gmail keeps kicking your email back , please add me. sgthompson55@gmail.com
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OK , my 89 uses the smaller rear speakers , does anyone have a set of the baffles for the rear for the 6 x 9 speakers to sell me?
I have checked all three of my 89 Reattas , all 3 have 2 smaller speakers on a mounting plate in the back on each side.
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Even though the Reatta was built in Lansing Mi , at the craft center , all other Buicks were built in Flint , in the BUICK CITY area , and with the engineering there it would not be hard to imagine Buick Engineers were involved to some point.
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please send me info. Planning on taking Grandson to visit relatives<and my Reatta is my daily driver> Would be fun to time it and do the meet
CRT connections
in Buick Reatta
Posted · Edited by SteveT
misspelled (see edit history)
Ok guys , when you are testing voltage , whether with a DVM , or the hated test light , you need to remember that not only does electricity flow out from your battery , but for the component to work the electricity has to flow back to the battery. That is why everything is grounded. The flow through whatever component is what makes it operate, and the AMPS are how much of the available electricity is consumed. So when you test for voltage on a ground wire there is a very good chance that your tool is completeing the ground circuit and that is why you get a reading.
The good side of understanding that is that you can use that same theory to test the ground side of your circuit. Say your headlamp is dim , but when you check you have battery voltage there. Put you test light from a known good ground to the ground post on the headlight. If your test light glows , you know that you have resistance on the ground side and can work from there. Electricity always takes the easy route , and if your light has an easier path to ground that the ground wire it will flow through your test light.