Wheelmang
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Posts posted by Wheelmang
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9 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:
Keys are normally steel. You can buy it by the foot or whatever, not very dear.
So the nut was very tight when you took it off? I have found the nuts actually loosen slightly even when done up to the suggested 150 lb.ft on my Dodge 8, even with pin. Unless the nut is LH thread, it will tend to loosen on left hand side.
Is the drum on a taper? If so, was the taper greased? If so, that might have been the problem. The hub tends to "walk" up the taper when it is greased. If so, make sure the hub is not cracked through the keyway. And put it back clean and dry, like it should be.
The nut had way more than 150 lbs. spindle is a taper. The washer under the nut was also galled up pretty bad. It is a tapered spindle. Myers did have a used key and it is on the way.
I will look for your other cautions. Thanks for your input.
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My 26 DB pushed awful hard when loading and unloading so the logical conclusion was the brakes were frozen. I put the rear end up on jack stands and sure enough the left rear was pretty much locked up. See the pictures for what I found. My theory is, the PO did not see the need for a cotter pin the last time the wheel was off. This resulted in the nut over tightening with the resulting failure. Wheel bearings, key slot and all other components are fine. The wheel bearing is cleaned and the axle is reinstalled with appx. .005 end play. I hammered the grease retainer back to an acceptable working condition.
However before reinstalling the wheel (after finding a new key) could someone who knows a lot more about it than me please comment on my theory? If the missing cotter pin is not the problem what else should I be looking for.
Does anyone have a source for the key? I looked at Myers and did not see any. It appears to be 5/16" brass?
Thanks all for your valued input.
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29 minutes ago, dbbob said:
We´re all sinners, but we try to be good! This is original for my ´24: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Dodge-Brothers-Horn-/361966096851?hash=item5446dc51d3:g:x6UAAOSw42dZBAZA&vxp=mtr It´s a little over-priced, I think. . . . Make an offer, if you can use it. Good luck!
Thanks for the offer Roberto but my car is a 6 V.
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Looks like the general consensus is happy wife - happy life. I especially like the suggestion of an anniversary gift. Anniversary number 50 is right around the corner. Guess what she's getting. (In addition to something yet to be named that I am sure will cost considerably more than a horn)
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On 4/27/2017 at 3:25 PM, cahartley said:
6 Volt horns should be available for under a C note.
Does your wife want a BEEP BEEP or OOGA horn?
OOGA
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On 4/25/2017 at 0:12 PM, jrbartlett said:
After having a radiator shop clean out my tank (from a '36 Cord) with something that removed all the varnish and gasoline residue, I was left with the rusty interior. I put in two gallons of Evaporust and periodically rotated the tank over a span of two months. Unfortunately, it did virtually nothing. I then turned to a trick we used on antique car gas tanks back in the 1960s and dumped in a gallon of rocks, and then violently agitated the tank. Again, virtually nothing. So I gave up and took the tank to a local Renu franchise, and they are currently cutting the tank open to sandblast the interior, and ultimately seal it. I wish I had gone this route in the first place.
Need to go to a radiator shop anyway so will see if they can have any better success than your experience. Nothing to lose I guess.
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That was my favorite TV show because of Edd's teaching. I fast forward through everything else. It was especially good when they finally started giving Edd a little credit by posting the labor hours in addition to the costs. VERY DISAPPOINTING. Edd needs to start his own show!!
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28 minutes ago, Ron Lawson said:
There were 2 horns for 26 models 12 volt for the single unit starter generator and 6 volt for the separate starter generator later 26 DBs
Mine is the 6V and I am finding it difficult to find one with out taking out a second mortgage on the house.
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42 minutes ago, Taylormade said:
If you can live with yourself and look your loved ones in the eye - go for it. ?
I don't know if I can handle it but my wife is the one who wants the horn.
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As best I can tell the only thing missing on my 26 DB is the horn. Otherwise it is completely original. Would it be a sin to put a Ford ahooga horn on it?
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WOW - I knew this was the place to ask the question. Thanks all for the education. I have a good friend who taught welding at a VoTec school so looks like that will be the direction if it does not come clean with a chemical flush.
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Got my 26 DB fired up yesterday for the first time since I have owned it. I used an external fuel source as the tank on the car smells like varnish. I believe it is the original tank with what I read some where has a lead liner??
The question is - what is the recommended means of cleaning out the tank? At 58K miles on the car it does not look like it has ever been off and if at all possible I would like to keep it that way.
Thanks all for your input.
Paul
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Anyone have a 1926 Georgia Tag (license plate) Just found out that GA allows the use of original year of manufacture tags for antique cars. Would look cool on my 1926 DB. Also looking for a horn for same.
Left rear wheel locked up
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I presume it somehow got lodged in part of the grease retainer. I am not real sure as it fell to the floor when I pulled the wheel off. The wheel would only rotate a few inches. Guess the PO was exaggerating a little when he said he had driven it before putting away the last time.