Wheelmang
-
Posts
415 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Wheelmang
-
-
I am replacing the 6V coil on a 1926 DB. The one that is on the car now is positioned upside down. I have seen coils mounted horizontally before but not inverted. Is there anything detrimental to performance with this being upside down?
Thanks
Paul
-
The switch is not on the wiring diagram in the Book of Information. BOI only, that I could find, listed wire guage recommendation based on circuit amps. Based on that and your recommendations above I am going with 14G on a full ignition system re-wire. Also eliminating the non original switch in the line and replacing the coil. Trans lock is the anti-theft protection. Thank you all for great guidance.
-
Thanks for the assistance. A new coil is on order and I think I will just replace all ignition related wiring based on book of information diagrams. Do not understand the need for the on/off switch in the line to the coil.
-
1926 DB 6V. When I first turn the ignition switch on my amp meter shows about a 8-10 A draw. There is also an in line interrupt switch for the wire going to the coil. Occasionally when the interrupt is pulled out (must be pulled out in order for the car to start) the amp meter pegs out to maximum draw. The wire from the ignition switch to the interrupt and on to the coil is 18G. The wire from the coil to the distributor is 16G. Finally the questions.
Shouldn’t the wires all be the same gauge? Was original equipment a wire straight to the coil from the ignition switch? Was OE 16 or 18 gauge.
thank you all for your excellent feedback.
Paul
-
Thanks both. I see that tab now. I need to keep reminding myself of the simplicity of this car. Off to find a spring.
-
Started up my 26 DB this afternoon and the engine took off racing. I then noticed that the gas pedal was on the floor. The return spring broke and I cannot for the life of me see where it was connected. Could someone please supply a picture of their connection and also what the length of a replacement spring should be when compressed.
Thanks so much for your help.
Paul
-
But it is a positive ground!
-
18 minutes ago, R.White said:
So the current thinking is that this wire is an extra ground.
Positively
-
You may try google for torque values. I have a chart found there that lists values based on thread size.
-
Did not realize I was posting such an electrifying subject. The comments are are a total trip. I am blown away with the response!
-
The attached picture is of the distributor on my 1926 DB. The wire coming off the distributor was in rough shape when I rebuilt the water pump so I went ahead and made a new one. Now that I am reinstalling the distributor I am wondering why I made a new one. Cannot figure out what it is for or why the PO may have put it there. Additional ground maybe? Any ideas anyone?
Thanks for looking and commenting.
Paul
-
Thanks all for your responses. I apologize if I created a redundant topic. This is my first go around with wood spoke wheels and they are on a DB so I would not have seen the many posts on the Model T forum. Guess I should have searched wood wheels before posting. Lesson learned!
My wheels are in great shape. My question was more of a preventative maintenance nature. All of the great responses above answered my questions. Thanks again.
Paul
-
On 5/5/2017 at 8:53 PM, Phil 32DL6 said:
Also, I've heard it said that the original engine color used was a more neutral, "truer" gray, and that the greenish tinge we see on original cars today is a result of color shift due to aging. Since people assume that the greenish tinge was what the original color was like, that's what's being matched today on repaint jobs.
I haven't verified that as fact, and I'm wondering if anyone else has reliable info to pass on?
Here's what I used after doing a complete valve job a few years ago.
I had to drop the oil pan on my 26 DB 4 cyl when I first got it. The oil pan and flywheel cover where approximately the same color you have pictured here. That is what I repainted them after cleaning and blasting. My block and head are black. I do not think the engine or pan have ever been out of this car. Also the water pump currently in rebuild stage was grey underneath a poor coat of black and dirt.
Well - after posting this my curiosity led me to the engine. Especially after finding the grey under the black on my water pump. A little de-greaser and some 220 sand paper uncovered under the black that I previously spoke the green seen in R White's video post. Very interesting!
-
I just posted a question in the General Discussion forum about Wheeler Dealers and a rerun that I watched this AM. Guess I should have looked at the Dodge Brothers forum first. Ed China actually soaked the wood spoke wheels for a couple of days in order to swell them up and cure some looseness. I questioned the practice.
-
It seems like every time I am on the site and go temporarily go to a second site the forum disconnects me. I understand if this is some kind of security for the site but my underlying question - It does not sign me out? Is this supposed to happen this way?
Thanks
Paul
-
I was watching a rerun of Wheeler Dealer this AM and they were working on a 1904 Durant. One of the issues Ed China was addressing was loose wooden spokes going into the rim. The issue was "the wood had dried out". Their fix was to soak the wheels in water for a couple of days in order to swell them up.
Is this a real fix? If yes, would this be a good preventative maintenance practice on 90+ year wheels? Would you want to sand down before soaking and then refinish after they have had a chance to surface dry? I own a 1926 DB and will soon be resurfacing the wood wheels.
Thanks all for your input.
Paul
-
On 5/5/2017 at 8:53 PM, Phil 32DL6 said:
Also, I've heard it said that the original engine color used was a more neutral, "truer" gray, and that the greenish tinge we see on original cars today is a result of color shift due to aging. Since people assume that the greenish tinge was what the original color was like, that's what's being matched today on repaint jobs.
I haven't verified that as fact, and I'm wondering if anyone else has reliable info to pass on?
Here's what I used after doing a complete valve job a few years ago.
I had to drop the oil pan on my 26 DB 4 cyl when I first got it. The oil pan and flywheel cover where approximately the same color you have pictured here. That is what I repainted them after cleaning and blasting. My block and head are black. I do not think the engine or pan have ever been out of this car. Also the water pump currently in rebuild stage was grey underneath a poor coat of black and dirt.
-
I found on tear down of this pump what may be the result of improper grease. There was a semi hard yellowish residue on some of the gears and inside the housing for the drive gears for the distributor and water pump shaft. When I first saw it I was afraid it was water in the oil but then remembered there was no evidence of water when I dropped the oil pan months ago. It felt quite slippery when I rubbed it between thumb and finger and actually dissolved slightly. Maybe the wrong kind of grease working it's way into the chamber?
-
Thanks both for confirming your practices. It looked like space was going to be tight with the seal but makes sense to use both. I like the idea of the insurance of two types of sealing. The shaft has minimal wear on the bearing surfaces at .6235 being the worst. By the time you add the thickness of lubricant clearance is pretty good.
-
I am taking the recommendation of some and am going ahead with seals (after finally finding a few) instead of packing material for the water pump rebuild. So a couple of questions.
- what direction do you position the lip on the seal. My presumption is always facing inward.
- when re-installing the original packing retention nuts, do you not reinstall the metal packing ring? (probably the wrong terminology on that component)
- does the pump just use a general purpose grease for the one grease fitting. Everything else appears to be self lube from the engine oil.
Thank all for your guidance!
Paul
-
Just an unrelated observation. Your picture looks like the starter cable is rubbing on the steering box. May want to shorten or re-position before a short out.
-
Mike - Yes, after reading about the deplorable shaft condition of other thread contributors I finally had a pleasant surprise in this car restoration. My presumption is it was replaced when someone jury rigged the original impeller with a new bushing.
-
1
-
-
CAHartley - Thanks for the info. Found two on special order at two separate local parts stores. I like the idea of using two per bore. In effect creates a double lip seal and the bore seems plenty deep enough for two. Now just need to find a couple more.
-
Had not thought of that. Great advice. Thanks!!
Wheel clamps
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Marc - Have you tried a National Wheel and Rim distributor yet? If you are not looking for total original equipment these are very similar to cast spoke wheel clamps that are on front wheels of mid size trucks. A good distributor should be able to help you by providing dimensions. If you find a distributor that has been in business a long time they may actually still have these clamps. Many of them do not throw this type of thing away. When I was in the business I know we had clamps that fit vehicles from the 30's. Check out pages 2-53 to 2-60 on the attached. This is only a current listing for one manufacturer.
100WE.pdf