Sean Batiz

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About Sean Batiz

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  1. I’m working on the scanning process in between my spare time. Should have them ready soon. As much as I do know, I also willingly admit to still being rather computer illiterate so bare with me on this task. Should I (if I can figure out how) place only a link on here to the pdf source or, the pdf itself on here?
  2. Aside from that gibberish rant (too much coffee today!), you might wanna consider purchasing BRAND NEW rod/cap bolts & nuts hardware for it! Just a thought....
  3. I’m surprised that you haven’t received any feedback from your questions yet. I’d like to throw some knowledge/experience opinions your way but, myself, I honestly don’t have a good answer for these questions. That said, if that were my crankshaft, I’d probably assume those grounded off areas were definitely due to some sort of final balancing steps, as you were suspecting. As for the metal flash material between the two balancing holes, I “might” consider carefully cleaning that bridge out to a clean edge or, just leave it alone. You figure that that Nailhead was presumably a good/decent runner for the many miles/years of operation it delivered and, the fact that you were able to get it back to running decent/fair before breaking it down, concludes that its crank issues you’ve spotted out, ought not have been a detrimental problem (🤞🏼). It’ll be a fine running engine for many years/miles to come, especially after you’ve finished its meticulous rebuild, whether or not you do anything to that crank, other than the standard polishing of its journals. Take it down to a reputable shop that can spin it to check how balanced it actually is. It just might be perfect exactly as is👌!
  4. Old-tank: Yes, I have more of them. Aside from that original 3-ring binder itself that’s in the pictures above, to which I just recently acquired via eBay, the PSB’s themselves were obtained sometime in 2016 I believe. I do also have a few of these PSB issues that are duplicates (extras), that I’d be willing to sell/trade to whomever but, not until I get around to organizing all of the various extras or, wrong year items to post in the correct “for sale” section here. So, would you (Old-tank) need digital scanned high res images of each of these pages, sent to you via email or, directly posted on here individually? I don’t currently have any of these pages scanned yet so, it may be a little while before I can get that task done first.
  5. Old-tank: I really appreciate the scanned pdf styled list of your PSB’s! After going through the list, I’m wondering why the list begins in March? The pages comprising the first of two issues of January ‘55 is what I’m most interested in seeing (pp. 55 to 60) & I’ve yet to figure out how to properly navigate through that hometownbuick site to find these. But, at least your list did finally solve for me, the mystery of what information the 1st issue of Nov. ‘55, pp. 21 to 26 has on them! Predominantly information pertaining to the ‘56 Buick model year cars, as I’d suspected they’d have.
  6. Mudbone, Hello to you & many props for your fantastic restoration of your Buick Century! I’ve watched every issue of the MANY videos of your progress that you’ve posted on YouTube over the years and have additionally read through all of your thread on the topic; HIGHLY INFORMATIVE! I’ve dug through this site from time to time in an attempt to learn as much as I can, as I go through the steps of “S L O W L Y” restoring at least one of my two 1955 Buick Super 2Dr Riviera’s, now both with the original Factory A/C Systems and, for whatever reason, just know discovered this surprisingly short thread! I likewise, have nearly every issue of these original Buick PSB’s for ‘55 and, those issued in the last few months of ‘54 that contain pertinent information about the ‘55 model year Buick’s. Ironically, the vast majority of these original PSB’s that I’ve acquired, were purchased together from the gentleman that runs/owns/operates the above mentioned website, hometownbuick out of Germany! I’ve even sent him a few high resolution pictures (digital images, of a few of the original 1955 Buick extremely rare documents that I keep well guarded) for him to produce high quality reproductions of! I do concur that his site is FANTASTIC and just LOADED with possibly the world’s best, single source for all things Buick of the 1950’s! This all said, of these originals that I’ve acquired & those I’ve obtained elsewhere, I’d really like to someday acquire/obtain the few remaining issues that have thus far eluded my grasp! The main one I’m seeking being the first issue of January 1955 or, pages 55 to 60, as well as the cover page that’s not page marked more specifically (at least, not counted until Feb of ‘55, from what I can discern). The other 1955 issue I’m missing, would be Nov. pp. 21 to 26. Also, an issue from 1954 of pp. 198 to —? I’m not sure if this issue contains any information pertaining to 1955 or not; I’ll have to check with the above mentioned website. If you happen to have any “extras” to any of these missing issues that you’d be willing to sell or trade for or at least, decent resolution copies of, I’d be interested! Thanks!
  7. I’m curious to see the condition of your Nailhead’s oil pan sump! Sludge? Clean? Wud’ja find in there? Hidden gold coins?
  8. Kosage, I forgot to mention that (from what I experienced) before you detach the upper casing section of antenna body, you should first loosen up the pinch roller spring tension screw that’s on the side of that upper casing. If you’re one of those lucky fellas that actually has one of these with its original nylon cord intact, you’ll want to notate the current position of that tensions set screw and count off the CCW turns required for its removal, so it can later be reset at roughly the same tension. Upon reassembling the unit, the nylon locking nut that secures the pivoting roller oughta be tightened down until seated and backed off just enough to allow that rollers’ axle casting to swivel in & out. It’s level of bite to the masts’ nylon cord, will then be determined by the externally adjustable spring tensioning screw. Just tight enough to eliminate slipping, is where I left mine at. Slippage: motors’ bench tested in either direction and runs fine but, no, minimal or, intermittent movement of mast. After initially marking the position of the tension screw, and loosen it off by say 2 or 3 revs CCW, you should be able to at that point, gently work the telescoping antenna segments back down (the nylon cord will be free to slide into the aluminum tube, if still pliable) if you’d rather, to at least have it in a safer storable length for now.
  9. Store it with your fishing rods for now! Oughta fit, no?
  10. I worked with one 55 Olds PA with a decent mast; slightly bent along each segment that needed rolled out, carefully. Had its cord broken in several points. And one 55 Buick Roady PA with its cord and mast severed off just above where it would’ve protruded above the mount of fender. The Olds PA uses a much larger curled, oval shaped aluminum holding tube; whereas the Buick PA uses the compact, circular aluminum tube.
  11. Yep 👍🏻! You definitely should carefully take it apart to prevent any damage to its nylon cord, given its not already in several segments. Remove the aluminum curled tube from the casing first and slide it from the nylon cord and set it aside. Separate the upper casing that the mast’s connected to. Slide that away from the motors’ middle section casing and the double pinch roller setup will be exposed. You’ll notice that the left one, if looking at the end where both rollers are facing you, has an adjustable swing pivot fastener with a nylon locking nut with flat washer. Loosen this up. It’ll release the tension of the nylon cord and allow you to slide the cord from the casing/motor body. Hopefully, its cord is in one continuous piece! If not, you may have to take the approach that I took of carefully expanding the swivel crimp connector that’s fixed to the end of the smallest, solid rod of the mast &, replacing the cord. I used a stretch of Craftsman weed-wacker nylon cord that had a cross-section diamond shape; it spirals along its length, which causes a bit of a rotation of the cord as it goes up and down but, doesn’t seem to bother the functionality of it. I had to carefully widdle down the tip from having a diamond shape to a round stem that was small enough to insert into the swivel crimp connector on the solid rod. Applied some J-B Quick epoxy to this tip, without attempting to recrimp it (it’s aluminum and VERY FRAGILE!). If you’re able to pinch the solid rod (two small blocks of wood and bench vise), you can remove the mast’s tip (threaded on). This will allow you to separate the solid rod for ease of getting a new cord attached, if necessary. I took mine completely apart (requires de soldering the field winding leads from the brush holder terminals) to get access to the lower bearing/bushing for servicing this (mine was seized up down there!). Works beautifully now, even when bench tested with the original switch inline! Now, just gotta RESTORE THE REST OF THE BUICK! 🙄. This oughta make a perfect winter bench project for you! Enjoy....
  12. I’m jealous! If only I’d performed this same task inside of a relatively clean garage, rather than the outdoors of my back field, the various matting surfaces wouldn’t have accumulated the surface rust it all very much did! Only being sarcastic about jealousy; just sayin’ it’s a heck of a lot better having enough space inside of a garage/building for such tasks vs. outdoors. The general climate in So Cal is such that it makes forgetting to protect metal from the elements, a real problem! Nice and dry for 97% of the year.
  13. I just noticed your message! No, I don’t remember ever taking any pictures of how that smog check arrangement was. I removed whatever was still left of it, that hadn’t rotted away and, had the tube welded back together and holes closed back off.
  14. On a side note to do with the valley pan itself and, the bulky air silencer for these Nailhead’s, you’ll want to be sure to drill out the baffle plate spot-welds of pan to THOROUGHLY get it cleaned up and be able to replace the steel-wool like filter gauze that’s undoubtedly in bad shape after 64 years. As for the air silencer, there’s a tedious method of bending away at the rolled bead of either end of its housing, to accomplish getting into its inner cavity for again, THOROUGH cleaning! You won’t want to have your freshly rebuilt engine, suck up a cloud of rust! It’d be inevitable for the oil bath filter to NOT catch it all.
  15. After really digging through the dust in my memory, I “think” that the oil fill cap was in the trunk when I first got it; earlier 55 only had one cap for neck at the front of valley pan, none on valve covers. It’s distributor was definitely in place but, why I was suspecting these critters went in via the road-draft tube as well, had to do with my car having been one of the many older models of cars in the mid 70’s that went through California’s smog check program which called for it’s road-draft tube to be literally chopped off about an inch out of its port for a rubber elbow to be attached (rotted away and hole exposed) that was routed to the top of the oil bath air silencer/cleaner housing that also received a roughly chopped hole in it for this rubber hose/elbow arrangement to fit (this tube extended through the housings top and was fixed to another hole cut into the filter element itself to the clean side of the element; a fruitless attempt at creating a closed crankcase breather system). Either way, I just remember having fished out MANY tiny bones along with that ‘leaded’ sludge! Yes, you are correct in that one “should” clean out the oil pan in an older engine BEFORE running it; as I stated, Lesson Learned the Hard Way. I most definitely did place that nasty stuff in a proper pail for disposal; really stunk badly too! According to its paperwork at the time that I bought it in ‘01, it was last registered in 1976 so, it definitely sat for awhile. Kosage, your transmission stand is looking great & it oughta hold up quite well, for what you intend to be using it for!