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Posts posted by Grant L. Meredith
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If you don’t find one you could have one 3D printed and cast one. Really good restoration shops can do this for you.
I’m sure the cost is not inviting but you would have a piece that is new and better than NOS.
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I was thinking the one on my 454SS is just like that.
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27donb I think looking at it today, someone used a filter that doesn’t have the filter seal at the outer edge of filter body. This seal on this one is in and would bloke the feed line! I need to find a better filter thay seals at the outer edge. I bet then that would eliminate the oily filter
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7 minutes ago, Robert Engle said:
I wouldn't know any other way to assemble it.
Bob Engle
Ok Bob. Thank you. There was no literature and I’ve never experienced one before.
I appreciate it -
Going to change the oil on the 1928. It’s been updated with the spin on filter update in the look a like original canister. This was done by the previous owner which I’m greatful he did.
I’ll attach pictures. Can anyone has one on their Buick can you tell me does this look like it was assembled properly please.
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The car is a friends. A decently restored convertible. Im
sure being pegged on full it’s a sending unit or ground problem. But a local shop has convinced him it’s a gauge issue. And they say they can’t find a replacement gauge.
Tonight it took me 20minutes on google search to find 3 NOS gauges.
I still stand it’s a ground issue or sending unitI’ll look up the company Bloo.Thankyou for the input
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Who is a good supplier of fuel gauges. Have one that has failed. Pegged to the full mark
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Boiling point of Evans is a lot higher than other.
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2 hours ago, EmTee said:
From what I have read, Evans runs hotter than plain water or ethylene glycol & water.
Yes but will not rust the components. And it’s life time.
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For the antifreeze IF money is not an issue, go with Evans. I’m changing over.
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49 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said:
Come on guys; getting your hands dirty is part of the experience of owning and maintaining old cars.
I actually have an old (all metal) bearing packer that I only used once. It wasted too much grease.
I have hand packed lots of bearings over the years and wiped the excess grease back into the can.
Then I wiped my hands with an old rag followed by soap and water.
My uncle had one decades ago at his shop, he never liked it
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Ok thank you for the info fellows. I just see how pumping grease in that hole closed by the screw would do much.
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4 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:
I would pull the wheels and re-pack the bearings by hand.
So don’t fill the whole void behind the grease retainer. My trouble is understanding how to use that properly. Being it’s threaded I didn’t know if fill the void then screw the retainer in to force grease like a grease cup on clutch and such.
Sorry if I sound dumb but I don’t want to cause issues. Just do it right. Hate doing the job twice 😊- 2
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On my 1928 Master, while looking things over on the front end ( I did find stuff to pay some attention to) the manual and the 1927 supplement book both state at a 1000 miles fill hub through the fill plug with grease.
So I removed the large threaded part that the fill plug is in. Not much grease in there. So going to clean things up and inspect bearings and such and before I grease this, how full is full? In the books it says fill.Im just concerned with over greasing and ruining the seal.
Also fill 4 hubs. I only have these on the front axle. And the part # doesn’t match what I can find in any literature.
2nd pic is rear axle -
In my 1928 128” I’ve used 80w90 and it leaks a lot. Go with something the Model T parts suppliers sell, the 600W or the 533. Both are good
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Big tune up thing I had to do to get my carb going was getting a new spring in that big brass thumb screw!!! Couple guys have them and are specific to model of the car and carb.
I got mine from The Carburetor Shop. -
I have used 600W that the Model T guys get from Lang’s I’m the transmission with great success Mark Shaw.
My understanding is that’s an old measurement of that oil viscosity and modern number for viscosity is around 200?
You're thoughts? -
I’ve used oil 90 or higher on my 1928
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It’s a standard. Really nice car. Looks like a good buy. Easy way to tell a standard is the flat belt on fan, masters 274 had a V belt. Also master had a round tube between frame rails ahead of the radiator behind bumper. Carb should be a 10-103. As you can see there is no water bridge (as I call it) from head to rad for return water
looks like the gentleman spent a lot on the car and should be a easy to get running I think.
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Leif beautiful Buick!
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tell me why in the world nobody makes a 6 volt power pack to jump start a 6 volt system?
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
I was thinking this the other night for signal lights