jsgun
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Posts posted by jsgun
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Your's is almost as bad as mine was. I had a leaking windshield, and the car sat outside for 5 years with it. I tried finding a replacement, but couldn't. Almost went with a marine grade fuse block. I cut mine out, and went with aircraft circuit breakers. I also put a large relay on the main power, and breakers on the high draw components. Going to put a relay on the headlights too. Way overkill, but I only want to do it once. I had a mustang that had a dash fire, i'm determined to not experience that again.
If you have a dremel moto-tool, they have thin brass brushes that work well for getting into those fuse contacts. That was my first plan of attack, until I decided it was too rough to save.
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I'm 6' 5", I seem to fit in my 64 ok. Right leg is on the console though. I figured I was going to have to modify the tracks to get it farther back. I barely fit in my 92 vette, the sport seat is all the way down, with the back laid at an angle. I had to modify the seat tracks on a 67 mustang to fit in it. I tried to explain it to the new owner but he didn't listen. He'll figure it out when he tries to drive it. Being tall is a bit of a PIA on older cars.
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i'm more of a custom car guy, i'm looking to do mine in pearloid:
http://pearlcraft.blogspot.com/2014/06/buick-riviera-1965-steering-wheel.html
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I've used a vice grip on the shock stud, works well when it's rounded off.
I've been looking at Viking shocks. Adjustable up and down rates and rebuildable, for about $100 more than bilsteins.
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3 hours ago, RivNut said:
Re-read Tom's post as where to block and where not to block the heat. Block it at the base of the carb - where the U-shaped passage is cast into the intake, not in the heads. You still want heat in the intake, just not crossing under the carb.
I was considering getting the intake gasket plugs that block the crossover heat ports on the heads going into the manifold. The insulator stack under the carb will block that carb heater port. I've used a Mr Gasket insulator before, it worked well and is only 1/4" tall. On my mustang I used gaskets that blocked the crossover port to try to stop the fuel boiling issues, and it did cause cold weather driveability issues. It took a 1/2" phenolic insulator to stop the boiling. I don't have that much hood clearance on the buick.
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I've had good luck with Gibb's oil for breaking bolts loose. Klutch has a small gear reduction tool that fits between a socket wrench and socket. I haven't tried mine out yet, but seems like a good idea. The 1/2" drive handles 330lbft torque, the 3/4 does up to 400 something.
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Thanks for the info about not blocking the head's heat risers. I was planning to. I was figuring the way the intake is raised from the valley pan it should run cooler anyway. Here in the desert I have problems with gas boiling in the carb after a drive. I install one of those insulator packs between the carb and the intake.
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I'd consider wiring in some relays to get the load off the light switch. This diagram is for the style the Riv has, but can be modified for newer lights.
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Here's a wheel fitment calculator I ran across some time ago. Good for comparing stock to custom wheels.
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On 7/11/2019 at 7:28 AM, rapom said:
Your combo will fit. My wheels are made by U.S. Wheel and are 15" x 8"'s with 4" backspacing (Bonus with this wheel is that the stock hub caps fit) and I have 295/55/15's in the rear and 255/60/15's in the front with no problems. The wheels even have divots to clear the front drum rivets. Had to do some slight clearancing for the front hub. All clearances are close in the back with the 2.25" exhaust pipes with some apparent rubbing at times that I never hear but can see when I take off the tires and see the shiny spot on the exhaust pipe. Even though there is over 1/2" clearance between the tire and the exhaust at rest. Must come from tight turns on inclines or declines. I have over 12,000 miles in 3 years on these wheels and tires.
That's some serious rubber. I was interested in some 15x8.5 torque thrust on CL, and used your car as inspiration. I chickened out, and went with some old 15x6 mags instead.
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On 7/11/2019 at 1:15 PM, psychostang said:
Vacuum leak or misfire.
I agree. On my ponycar, when the engine started shaking it was a vacuum leak. It would also explain why it runs like bad gas. Higher idle mask it some.
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I had a old mustang, and replaced the Crane HI-6 box and coil with a Pertronix 3 and coil, and it made a big improvement. Sharper response, a little better gas mileage. Kinda frustrating considering how much more the Crane stuff cost.
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11 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Sir, you have a challenge. The unschooled buyer would not know much about your offer. The schooled buyer would be looking for a price value proposition. Advertising source is going to be important so you can reach a targeted audience. Just my opinion.
Turbinator
That's my biggest concern. To the average joe, it's an interesting car, but they have no idea about Rivs. Luckily in socal, the low rider, custom guys, and old car buffs like them and there's a bunch of them around here. I appreciate your opinion, good point.
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15 hours ago, RivNut said:
One thing you could do for a couple of reasons. 1) They're not stock to a 64 Riviera, so it's no big deal to you, and 2) it could be a huge deal to someone owning a 64 Wildcat are the center caps for the wheels. 1964 only, Wildcat only, rally wheel only. Could be worth a small fortune to that particular Wildcat owner. If the wheels are the 64 wheels that go with the caps, really big deal. 1964 only, Wildcat only. If you're interested, you'll have to remove a wheel from the car and see if there are signs of a register ring having been removed. Hidden treasure right under your nose. Assuming that you have all four, but any number is still worth something.
15 hours ago, RivNut said:Back to your original question. My 64, in my garage, is basically in a bunch of pieces as I slowly get it back together, but Hagerty has it insured for $15,000. And each year the insured value goes up according to a scale they have. As I make significant progress, I advise them and they adjust accordingly in addition to the inflationary figure.
I'd like to sell those wheels actually. The chrome is in excellent shape, but the caps are rough. There's no register rings on the inside centers. I bought a set of extremely rare Kelsey Hayes "Stripper" wheels for the car, but can't currently afford tires.
That's an interesting valuation, I appreciate the info. This is my dream car, i've wanted it for 20+ years, and I plan on owning it the rest of my life if I can. But it's good to have an idea of it's value.
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On 6/30/2019 at 7:47 AM, 60FlatTop said:
Just figure out what you are willing to take that will minimize your losses. Advertise it at that amount, or a little more, and see how you do. Be careful not to scare off potential buyers with the offering. They don't usually come back.
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I sold my 67 mustang earlier this year, and felt like I got burned on it. But it was the best offer anyone gave after 8 months of being on CL. Let it go for $3000, the cost of the aluminum heads I put on it a year prior. I'm in $9K on the Riviera (about another $1k in parts), letting it go for less would be too painful.
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Video of it running before I started work on it. Dash was out, trying to figure out what was going on with the wiring. Power steering fluid was low. Mufflers are 12" glasspacks, way too loud.
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My HOA sent a letter saying they were going to tow cars, and historically they want my Riv gone because it doesn't run. The multi-millionaire property owner thinks it's a eyesore, even though it's covered. I spoke with management and talked them down, so crisis averted. I was off work sick for two months, so bills are piling up too. I've decided to keep it as long as I can.
I am curious for arguments sake, on what the possible value could be. It's a 64 Riviera, lots of options but nothing rare. It was partially restored by the previous owner who lost interest because of the shoddy paint work and wiring issues. The car is complete (other than 3 small pieces of trim), the whole interior is disassembled. The engine is supposedly rebuilt, but no paperwork. I believe it because the gaskets were unpainted, and it's spotless inside. I've since repainted the engine AMC teal. The accessories are currently removed. New parts: Facet "Gold Flo" electric fuel pump, wiring, rubber lines, and Revolution Electronics pump controller; Street Demon 750 elec choke carb, Mallory fuel pressure regulator and hoses; Pertronix 3 ignition module, coil and wiring; Powermaster XS Torque mini starter with 00 gauge wiring, Powermaster 140A alternator, breaker, and 2 gauge wiring; FlowKooler high volume water pump; aluminum 4 core large tube radiator with shroud and electric fans (don't remember the brand, not installed), dual chamber master cylinder (not installed). Wheels are 64 Wildcat, missing one center and the rest are rough. Brakes looked rebuilt.
Window regulators were cleaned, new motors, and not installed yet. Side glass is newly seated with tape. Added power vent windows, but not wired. I have a bunch of extra window switches. I have a hundred LBS of wire and new hoses. Fuse box was rusted from leaking windshield, so it was replaced with aircraft breakers (all tested working), and an industrial contactor (relay) was added to get the load off the switch. Almost all that wiring is completed. Bad stuff: Rear window opening is missing whole bottom ledge. Windshield is rusted at top, but not all the way through. That's the only known rust. Paint is rough, clearcoat is sunburnt in places. I think that's it. Thanks for any info and opinions.
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How would you price a Riviera for sale, when it's partially apart? I understand it devalues it, but how can I determine by how much? It's a fairly loaded car, but the interior is disassembled and the wiring upgraded but not completed. I can't find anything online to compare it to. Would you just list it best offer and hope for the best?
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I think the rivets were there for assembly at the factory, and no other purpose. Seems like 75% of a car's design is to get it together as quickly as possible with little thought given to getting it back apart. OEM's are only responsible until it's out of warranty. I usually drill the heads off then use a BFH to knock it out the hub. a chisel works too, if it's sharp.
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Looks good for a east coast car, totally fixable.
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I don't know any sources, but I used to do bodywork. I strongly recommend having the car checked for straightness. Have it put on a frame machine to make sure the frame is square, and then the body square to the frame. Looks like it hit a pole center of the PS headlight? Older cars are heavier metal with zero crumple zones, so that impact went all the way to the rear even though it's not visible. If you find someone good with hydraulic pullers, I think that fender can be saved. If they're ambitious and talented, they can save that hood and bumper, but the labor cost might get crazy.
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I knew someone with a super cobrajet mustang that was an original, very rare shade of yellow. A gentleman flew across the country to digitally analyze the color, to paint his cobrajet.
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I think 2-way radio too. Maybe early CB?
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I had a 79 Malibu that was silver with a red interior. Very striking combination. I wasn't a fan of red, until I owned that car.
My 64 Riv was factory "tawny mist", i'm presuming named after a stripper. Very pretty color but was replaced with a custom mixed (read, unpatchable) dark purple. The interior was saddle, my least favorite interior color. Fawn, red, or black would have been perfect with tawny mist.
I'm partial to dark blue with a deep or even dark red interior. Seen a few cars done like that, when the colors are right it's outstanding.
Gen 1 Disc conversion and later rims with orig covers
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I'm considering going to disc on my 64. Possibly 4 wheel disc. My drums are in good shape, but I plan on using the car as a daily driver, and i'm concerned about being able to find replacements.
I previously owned a 67 mustang with drums. In cool, nice weather, they were great. After a lot of traffic driving, I could feel the fading, I had to start planning stops. In rain, they were almost worthless until 3 or 4 strokes. I converted that car to disc, and all those issues were gone. I never had heat fade (I had issues with cold, but that was due to performance pads), and they handled rain just fine. The biggest change was panic stops. I had much quicker stopping distances and response. Around here, many surface streets are 60mph, with idiots randomly pulling out in front of you. Good brakes are important.