22touring
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Posts posted by 22touring
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12 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
Actually, DB started building wood bodied cars in late 1917. The first bodies were all steel and built by Budd but the very first body built by DB was the centerdoor sedan which is a steel over wood body just like a Chevrolet. I have one. They also built the four passenger coupe in '24 which was a wood bodied car, have one of those too. They advertised the crap out of how superior all steel was but didn't follow their own rule.
Good points, nearchoc. I had forgotten about the '24 four-passenger. Was that body built by DB or by Fisher?
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The all-steel body was a major selling point for the DB car and was heavily advertised. Therefore DB stalwarts and loyalists of the time were somewhat dismayed when, in January of 1925 (after the Brothers' deaths but a few months before the purchase by Dillon, Read & Co.) DB introduced the Coach and Special models, which had bodies built by Fisher that were made from steel and wood composite.
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On 11/28/2019 at 3:32 PM, keiser31 said:
Both of the cars I posted photos of used to belong to Niles Thomas. He was a good friend and used to live near me.
It was Niles Thomas who owned it in 1986 when I saw it. He drove it around in a big Ford van.
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Yes, the "E & D" bicycle was one of the first to feature ball bearings, rather than bushings, in both the hubs and the bottom bracket.
That was just one of the Dodge Bros.'s other talents. Another one was when , at the government's request, they built a factory and manufactured special ammunition to very close tolerances when the U.S. entered WWI. I think neither GM nor Ford was willing or able to do it.
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Yes, I believe so, Keiser31. Thanks a lot!
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What a great project, Mattml430! It will be a very beautiful car when you finish it.
There was a somewhat elderly gentleman whom I met at the 1986 DB Club national meet in Reno, NV in 1986 who had a sports roadster that was really beautiful. Maybe somebody can tell me his name; I am sorry, but I don't remember it. However, I think he was then a long-time member of the DBC. In any event, his car was lovely and seemed very correctly restored, as far as I can tell. So you might want to check to see if his car appears in any pictures that the DBC might have of their 1986 national meet.
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It is interesting that neither the 1970's Cars & Parts series "Good Enough Is Not Acceptable" by Don Butler, nor "The Brothers Dodge" by Stan Grayson in Automobile Quarterly for the first quarter of 1979 (two fairly well-respected sources of information concerning the DB car) mentions the 1,500 Wilson bodies. Butler, if not Grayson, claimed to have reviewed Frederick Haynes's notebooks.
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I finally got around to buying a copy of Charles Hyde's "The Dodge Brothers" on Kindle, and noticed that the author states DB bought 1,500 wood-framed bodies from the Wilson Carriage Co. the first year of production, apparently because the Budd Co. couldn't produce enough all-steel bodies (citing Frederick Haynes's notebook).
I was totally unaware of this when I disagreed with nearchoclatetown over the issue. Sorry about that!
The Hyde book sure does contain a lot of interesting information.
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The all-steel bodies of the early Screensides were built at the Edward G. Budd Manufacturing Co. in Philadelphia, PA.
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I have heard stories over the years (which may be apocryphal, but I tend to believe them) that you should not use a high-compression head on an early, 3-main-bearing, 4-cylinder DB engine.
Here's an advertising brochure for the Roof OHV cylinder head for the DB 4-cylinder.
I don't seem to be able to upload a legible copy, so here is a link to the legible version:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4yy5uptniyk3qee/Roof OHV clyinder head for DB brochure.jpg?dl=0
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The green engine color for 4-cylinder DB cars is DuPont DuLux 83503 - 1958 Peugeot green.
Check out this thread, wherein the paint color code is provided by well-known DB authority Rodger "Dodger" Hartley.
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/44755-engine-color/
Here's a copy of the DB body paint chart that was distributed by ROMAR quite a few years ago.
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thehandleman, I have a can of DB green engine paint in my barn, too. I think it was the Dupont brand, so the number should cross-reference easily. Do you want me to go fetch that can and get the code for you?
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"You need to use automotive paints not house paint."
Right. I wasn't sure if you were painting your body or your wheels. Single-stage catalyzed urethane enamel would be correct for our cars. Unfortunately body shops seem to want to spray only 2-stage paints these days because their customers are too lazy to wax their cars.
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Mpgp1999, at first I wasn't sure if you wanted Postal Blue (aka Admiral Blue) paint for your wheels and spokes, or another shade of blue for the body of your car, but I guess you want the postal blue, huh?
I would like to give you a rant about paint, if you don't mind. I hope I am not hijacking your thread.
Many of the ingredients that make a paint cover well, be very durable and long-lasting are quite expensive. (For example, chromium dioxide. Have you priced having anything chromed recently?) All paint manufacturers except Sherwin-Williams mix their paints down to a price, using only the bare minimum of the expensive ingredients, so their products can be popularly-priced to sell in the big-box stores. S-W follows a different business model. They don't even try to sell their paint in Home Despot because they make the best paint they can make and then charge whatever it costs, and nobody who's looking for an economical price at the big-box store would buy it. Homeowners get sticker shock when they see prices like that because usually S-W paints cost about twice as much as supposedly-"equivalent" paint in other brands, but S-W paints cover in one coat and are very durable. That's why painters prefer to use S-W. On a big painting job, you save a lot more in labor costs than you lose by using the more expensive paint.
Before I learned this, I hired a painter to paint the eaves and soffits on my barn. We agreed that I would provide the materials, and I bought Behr paint from Home Despot. When the painter arrived and saw the Behr paint, he remarked that it was too bad I had already bought it because he had meant to tell me to buy S-W because it would cover in one coat, while the Behr paint would take 2 or more coats. Since I couldn't return the paint, I told him to go ahead anyway. Sure enough, he had to apply 2 coats; even then it didn't cover very well; and my labor cost was twice what it would have been with S-W paint.
I bought a quart can of S-W Postal Blue oil-based paint for my new spoked wheels and was very happy with it. Great coverage with one coat, and it still looks like new after 10 years. When you're only buying a quart, the price difference isn't that significant.
Mpgp1999, would you like me to get you the paint code for S-W Postal Blue? I've got the can tucked away in the barn, and will pull it out for you if you need the code.
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2-7/16" X 16 TPI.
Check out this page of the "Resurrection of Daphne" thread and consider having George McMurtry make one for you. He does beautiful work.
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After maybe replacing the packing, get a small, cheap grease gun and a Zerk-to-Alemite adapter. Fill the grease gun with old-fashioned, wax-like, high-temp water pump grease (available from antique car suppliers). Loosen up the gland nuts a bit to make sure you get plenty of grease in there. Then shoot the gland nut area full of the special water pump grease through its Alemite fittings, until grease starts coming out around the shaft, before snugging up the gland nuts. Wipe off the excess grease and run the motor a bit before checking to make sure the gland nuts are still snug (the packing will compress). That should stop most leaks. If the leaking is reduced but still dripping, shoot more lube into the gland nuts, this time without loosening them first.
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Let me know if you'd like me to scan my copy for you.
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I apologize if I'm hijacking Mattml430's thread, but it seems like I've "always heard" that non-counterweighted crankshafts, like in our DBs, can't be balanced with the entire reciprocating assembly. But I'm not an expert on engine balancing, and I can't remember what the exact reason was, so is that correct? If it is not correct, could somebody explain to me why what I have "always heard" is wrong? Thanks a lot.
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Bear in mind that you must have exactly the correct top saddles or they won't work correctly.
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I do not like Nolan Sykes's videos because he is a real intellectual lightweight who knows a lot less than he claims to, and makes things up. He made a lot of historical mistakes with the DV v. Ford video. For example, Dodge Bros. never bought Ford, nor did they ever invest $10,000 in Ford.
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The old timers in the Dodge Bros. Club told me that when using an electric fuel pump with the Stewart carburetor, fuel pressure should be regulated down to 1.5 pounds. The Stewart was gravity-fed, and can't take very much fuel pressure.
I discovered that struggling to get a vacuum tank working, and having to thoroughly learn its theory of operation in order to make it work, built character. My head is puffed up bigger than ever, and I'm a really proud DB owner now. I recommend it!
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Why in the world are you encouraging 30dodgedd6 to use this site as an ebay auction? The site is supposed to be about maintaining and restoring DB cars, not making a bunch of money off of emblems and incessantly and repetitively posting in order to do so. This shows a serious lack of class and good judgment, IMHO.
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I am going to say LUB164 (edit: as far as transmission oil is concerned). Check out this thread:
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This is obviously a case of, "If you can't say something nice, say nothing at all."
How to brace the door openings when removing the body?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I was hoping that you folks would be willing to tell me the best way to brace the door openings on my '22 touring car when I remove the body from the frame.
I would appreciate any advice you might have for, hopefully, a simple and elegant way to do it. Thanks very much