P6tu

Now...Somethings get done and new things emerge... Today I lost the reverse...SO,I know,that everything was done in the gearbox and it was repaired and only thing that I was warned about,was the front pump plate,that it had some wear on it and it had to be repaired or replaced.I have driven around 500 miles on it already this week and the direct drive is working OK.Low has some slipping at low revs - same was with the reverse.Now the Low was getting better over time (do not have to use it lot,only with cold engine),but the reverse was getting worse every day.I have studied the chassis service manual and I'm finding it a bit hard to figure out,how come only reverse is gone,but the low is there...I would understand it,if the reverse would be slipping,but it is totally missing... Another problem,that starts to scream a bit,is the leaking steeringbox...It is getting worse,by the day...Luckily I do not have to pour more steering fluid,but at this rate,I soon must add more... With regards, Roland

Hello Doug, I've spoken with Pete,but he does not have it unfortunatelly.He does have one for a Special or Century.The molding for those is a bit narrower than the one for Super or Roadmaster. Thanks for the hint about Desert Valley Auto Parts - I've sent an e-mail to them. While I'm waiting for a reply from then,everyone can still give me pointers or offer one,if they have - first come,first serve . With regards, Roland

The promised picture of the temporary clock replacement: During the daytime the background looks like chrome,so it would not stand out so much...For some reason it does not look like that on the picture. Now back to disassambling the clock mechanics...

Hello Mike, That is exactly what is causing it.After playing with them a little,I found the center caps to be cause for the screeking noise.The question is - how to make them silent again...I feel,that silicon would be a bit too ... how to say ... raw aproach,but I can not come up with anything better...Will see what the future will bring =).

Hello everyone, A picture says more than a thousand words as everybody knows: I will appreciate,if someone even could give me a hint whome to turn to,to ask for the molding. I will organize the shipping and I can only pay via PayPal. Offers can be made here and on my e-mail: Roland@classicrent.eu . With best regards, Roland

So I finally got to the bottom of one screeking noise that sounded like the brakepads are loose.I had disassambled them once,put them together to find out that everything is tight and all the springs are OK and etc. but the noise still remained...Then today I wanted to clean my hubcaps and the rims and got in a hurry and did not place the hubcaps on when I had to drive off - and what a suprise,the screeking noise was gone.When I placed the hubcap back,the screeking noise was also back... Now I need to figure out,how that noise is exactly caused with the hubcap - it is exactly in the same rythm as the wheel turns (like the rim would be so soft and cause the hubcap to move a bit in the rim)... I also started to work with my dash clock.It does not function at all and has never done so in my posession...I've heard,that simple cleaning of all the details inside will do the trick.I took the mechanism out and added my custom text to do the trick instead of leaving an empty hole in there (will post a picture of it soon).

So the car is moving - yay =), and I had to take the infamous picture of the rear of the car with the reverse lights on Looking at the picture...I just now noticed,that I might have one licence plate bulb gone out... Anyways,now I'm starting to hunt the missing piece of chrome molding... If someone has some info,who might have this piece,then let me know. And I'm also working on the other minor (at the moment) problems...Like the turn signals not working,something making metal noise at the rear (like an exhaust pipe connection - but it is not) and there is something wrong with the right passanger window,making somekind of nagging noise...THe drivers window is going down VERY hard,but comes up quite easy.As I remember,then there was no spring and now I need to figure out how the window works and what prevents it from falling open itself - in my case,not allowing to open at all... And the problems list will go on and on and on and on...Will keep you posted =). PS! The tires need to be replaced also...They have cracks already and are little bit out of shape...And they are old...And I wanted full whitewalls anyway .

What four door hardtop the 58' is? I'm looking for the chrome piece that is on the top of the left rear wheelwell.It is the piece that continues the chrome strip from the...Ahh...Picture says more than a million words (near the rear wheel you can see one small chrome piece missing): I'm looking for that chrome piece and I know that the Roadmaster and Super had the same. With best regards, Roland

Today was quite fruitful,but I need to replace my left exhaust manifold (the connection to the exhaust pipe is so badly rebuilt that there is nothing to save or rebuild any more): Otherwise - todays results: The valve covers will be aftermarket ones,but those are still drying from the paint - will be silver looking as those exhaust manifolds.The ones that can be seen on the picture,are the original ones,but they are so bent already that it is not efficent to use them any more. To the future...with the past =).I hope to get it done this week .

Hello NTX, I must agree with you,that when you use the original bearings (with a grease line/fat string - not sure how it is called) one must use the slinger.I replaced the original bearing with something that functions a bit differently and is by design meant to hold back oil with all the "dirt" inside the engine.The bearing is like a seal - it has a "spring" inside it,that is working both ways and the more momentum it has,the more it pressures itself against the crank and the outer surface (the timing plate) and at the same time,the seal works as a bearing... Dangnabit how difficult it is to describe something in a foreign language . The main thing is,that whoever is reading this forum and is also rebuilding the engine,then the oilslinger at the end of the crankshaft is required.Also it is very easy to "make" the so called dripping plate underneath the camshaft gear and if it was there originally - use it now too. Just the question remains,that why this dripping plate was used...And why was it removed in newer engines... Sure,mostly everything is moved by inhertia inside the engine,including the oil,but it also will flow.For example,I'm just thinking that when you have made a long drive and then stop and turn off the engine,then maybe the dripping plate was mostly utilized in a stalled engine to forward extra oil to the crankshaft gear and chain?It would make sense and sure,when the engine is working,then most of the oil would be slung on the outer sides of timing case so it would have minimal effect when the engine is running...Just a tought. With regards, Roland

Just some updates - the engine has been assambled and I have placed the dripping plate underneath the camshaft gear and I did not place the shielding at the end of the crankshaft - my justification for leaving it like that is,that I have used a different bearing from the original one - a bearing that is meant to hold back the oil itself.

Hi, Looks exactly the same and again,the oil has dripped down straight on the block and nothing has been "guided" with some dripping plate to the crankshaft gear...The mystery remains,why it was/wasn't used on the nailheads... Regarding the crankshaft shield,then it was used on all engines.For some mysterious reason this shield has been lost at some point in my long history of this engine rebuild at various different workshops... Regards, Roland

Hello everyone, I've been busy for the few days...Anyway,I did a simple bent oil dripping plate to forward the oil to the chain.Regarding the round plate at the end of the crank,I did not place that.Thing is that originally the the timing case has a different bearing at the end of the crank - I used a ... (I do not know the correct term) ... bearing,that is meant to hold back oil (something similar used in nowadays cars between the flywheel and engine crank). Regarding the loose piece...I have no idea,but I have not driven much with the engine.Anyway,I have a new chain,new gears,freshly redone (third time) block and crankshaft,new camshaft,new pistons,reworked connection rods,redone heads,new...Let us say,that it is easier for me to tell you,that only old things in that engine currently are the block,heads,crankshaft,con. rods - those have been redone.Everything else is new. Currently the engine is assambled already and I should get it mounted on the car tomorrow (after about 10h from this post - time zone difference ). So from my point of view this topic can be closed and thank you everyone for your help.If there are people,who would like to discuss,why the dripping plate was not used in later nailheads - go ahead =).What I can tell you more,is that the 401 has exactly the same look from the front of the block.Only the big gear is a bit different (lighter),but otherwise everything is the same,so I do not see,how the chain should be lubricated...Only from the oil at the bottom of the engine...PS! You can even see on the 401,that the oil has just ran down straight from the block.There is an extra amount of old burnt oil in the middle of the block that has dripped from behind the upper large camshaft gear. With the best regards, Roland

Thank you Bob for your answers. Do you have any specifics or an example,what the oil drip plate should be or would it be enaugh,if I make something that would "direct" the oil to the bottom gear? Would you have any idea,why the plate was not used in 401 nailhead,even tough the engine build is the same?I'm just curious... With the best regards, Roland

Hi, It is not a jig unfortunatelly. The bolt is a bit strange.It has threads only on the thicker part near the head.The tip does not have any thread and is like a solid cylinder - it kind of looks like some kind of regulation bolt,but I have no clue,where to put it and it was not fixed to anything when the engine was disassambled... With best regards, Roland

And I was too quick...I have already assamble the front of the engine and started to colour it...Those are the purposes,that I assumed that those things would have...Now the question is,how important they are... Do you happen to know,why the 401 does not have that drip plate? With the best regards, Roland

Hello, I was thinking that maybe I'll get more attention in this forum. I am currently rebuilding my Buick Super 1958 6,0L 364CID engine and have encountered some missing pieces.Maybe there is someone,who could tell,if those are "must be" parts or I can assamble the engine without those pieces. To explane my questions I have made some pictures of my 364 engine and one old 401 nailhead. I have one plate missing (shown in the original chassis manual for 58' with red): First,the differences between 364 and 401. The 364 (with the threaded holes for attaching the missing piece and without the big round plate at the end of the crank): The 401 (without the holes for that missing plate and with big round plate at the end of the crank): Now the picture of the timing cover for my 364 (the bearing is different from the 401 - otherwise the same): 1.Do I need the missing piece that is marked with red in the manual? 2.Do I need the round plate that is on the 401 - it looks like it should keep the oil going to the crank end,to the sealing? 3.I also had this screw inside that cover (screw that is on the white paper) - I am unable to find a location to it and it was not fixed to anything when I took it apart.Has anyone got any idea,where it should go (PS! it isn't the screw to hold the plate)? With best regards, Roland

I made more pictures of the both engines and then I also have few more questions that I had earlier - just needed to take new pictures. First,the differences between 364 and 401. The 364 (with the threaded holes and without the big plate at the end of the crank): The 401 (without the holes for that plate and with big plate at the end of the crank): Now the picture of the timing cover for my 364 (the bearing is different from the 401 - otherwise the same): Do I need the plate that is on the 401 - it looks like it should keep the oil going to the crank end,to the sealing? I had this screw inside that cover (screw that is on the white paper) - I am unable to find a location to it and it was not fixed to anything when I took it apart.Has anyone got any idea,where it should go (PS! it isn't the screw to hold the plate - too small)?

Hello John, Yes,that is the correct manual for 1958. For my 364 engine there are threaded holes for those two screws,like shown on the picture. I also have an 401 engine,and that does not have those holes for that plate.That is why I am wondering,if it is important or not...Otherwise the 401 looks basically the same.

So the build is slowly going,but at least forward.I have encountere few problems. I'd like to start with one small piece of metal that is missing,but I'd like to know,if it is important and why it is there at all?Picture of the thing that is missing (marked with red): Unfortunatelly I do not have many pictures,but few random,that I have made at some point: Now something cool too - this is how an oilpan looks like when the car has driven about 250 miles: Obviously it was not cleaned and I was told that the engine was fully redone and cleaned...My a** it was... Will post more questions later =).

I finally got the connection rod bearings oversized to 0,040 and the engine is being put together.The crankshaft is in place,the camshaft installed and so far so good =).I'll try to make some pictures and post them =). PS! I must thank TA Performace for helping me to get those bearings =) !

Unfortunatelly,yes. It happens to be that here in Estonia and Finland we always do replace all the bearings and do full downsizing to the crankshaft.We have learned with many fellow enthusiasts here,that it is possible to order single sets of bearings - we have always known,that it is not possible... I got one lead,who might have a full set of connection rod bearings oversized to 0,040...We'll see,if he has them or not.

A little update: As soon as I got the bearings,I was too happy to check if I got them all and etc. and took them directly to my engineer...At the same evening I got a call from him,that I only have the main bearings and there are no con rod bearings... Back to searching...I got information from TA Performance,that they were able to find 7 bearings oversized to 0,040 and they are missing one...

Little update: After about two months and a week, over 25 different e-mail enquiries, around 15 website enquiries, 4 forum topics, phonecalls to five different countries to known enthusiasts, I HAVE FINALLY found the UBER RARE 0,040 crankshaft bearings! I have never even EVER had to search and work so hard just to obtain some spare parts.This means,that after few weeks there is a big chance to get my car running and on the road finally. A little minus side is,that I hadn't picked up my gearbox and contacted the person now and he told me that it would be vise to replace the front pump plate.I did a quick search and it appears that everywhere it is out of stock. Does anyone have any experience of restoring the plate?I have the cast iron one,not the laminated.

Bearings aquired - probably the last ones on earth . Thank you everyone for your attention =).