P6tu

Hello, Regarding those wipers. I have a 58' Super with those Camomatic things - problem is that those pads that are attached to the wiper blades and should slide on the guide, have worn out. Has anyone replaced them and how to replaced those pads and what have you used to replace those plastic/rubberish pads? With regards,

Hi, Thanks for the reply. The tires should be quite exact to original size from diameter perspective. I do have fitted a bit wider tires, but I've kept the diameter close to the original. So it is true that there are different gears, but am I correct that this gear is located inside the transmission and isn't exactly an easy thing to swap out or to replace? If the magnets are weak, then shouldn't it be the opposite that the speedometer readings would be lower compared to the actual speed? With regards,

Hello, So I've aquired a "new" car to myself, but this has a strange issue. At first the speedometer wasn't working at all. The speed wire was broken from the transmission side. Bought a new one and before installing it, I found the root cause, why the wire was broken in first place - the speedometer was stuck as hell. So I cleaned it and lubricated it properly and cleaned it up as much as possible without taking it apart. It started working perfectly, but the speed it is indicating now, is not correct. It is always showing like a +30%. Driving around 40mph according to the speedo is actually 30mph and driving around 70mph according to the speedo is actually 55mph. I've read somewhere that there may be something done with the gears inside the tranny, but there have been no repairs nor nothing to the transmission according to my knowledge (I have the 4 speed hydromatic transmission). What could be causing the incorrect speed? With regards,

Would look like that, but the pump plate didn't have any worn markings and even the old plate looked worse and even that performed better (4+ years ago). The offset half moon looking things were properly tight and I find it hard to believe, but maybe I did miss something... I really need to get something to measure the pressure... Maybe I am looking for the pressure gauge with wrong words, but would someone be able to help me find a proper strut to measure the pressure from the front pump? All the measurment points seem to have the same thread, but I am not able to get anything in EU. I can get the high pressure hose and the gauge to measure up to 400psi, but I just can't get anything to fit and tighten in the measurment points on the transmission...

I made a few videos also that show and explain the issue. This video shows the poor performance (stationary acceleration with the lever in D position): In this video I tried to capture the sound (video starts with lever in N and then followed by D, L ...some struggle with lever position change by a girl :D... R and the back to L, D and finally N): If someone could specifically point me what to exactly look for, I'd be greatly thankful. From all the troublshooting tips it all directs to issues in the reaction shaft flange (the plate that has oil passages that route the pressure either to the small turbine or big turbine and etc.), but since I cleaned it all, then I am a bit lost... What also troubles me, is that with the speeds over 30mph, the performance is normal, with the exeption, that it does not have this increased humf, when flooring it and does not have that specific sound that it used to have, when the acceleration pedal was pressed all the way down within speeds between 20-60 mph.

Very good. This seems to be a bit more detailed than the chassis manual... I need to take the transmission apart again and go through everything step-by-step.

Picture again of cleaned servo components (prevvous one is balck for some reason.

But the servo was the easy part... After cleaning that, I didn't see any changes and had to take the transmission out. But I cleaned everything inside and took apart most of the elements (turbine vanes, clutch pack, both bands, pumps and the flange). I did not do anything with the accumulators and I didn't disassemble those to bits and pieces. Just took them away from the flange plate (damn tricky with one nut instead of a bolt which was not needed to be fully loosen)... Only thing, that appared a bit different was the low band, when compared to the inside of the high band. So I replaced that. I could not say, that it was exatly worn out, but just had a strong hint of being used. I had the band adjusted to max also prior to installing the new band, so I tought that this was the culprit, but nope. I adjusted the bands according to the book by tightening it and then 6 turns back - did I do it incorrectly? The high band works perfectly...

Before.

Servo cleaned.

I didn't clean the exterior, but I did clean the interior... Didn't make much pictures, but:

I've searched from hometownbuick, but there isn't a manual for variable pitch dynaflow. I have the variable pitch dynaflow transmission, not the flight one. Sorry for not stating that in the initial post.

Just in case - picture of the link that I describe as a "kickdown" switch.

I did try that. I can't say that the performance would have increased and it was rather the same (no effect). I understood, that this is the "kickdown" switch... But there was one change when changing that link position - when I switched to drive and then pushed the link up (like it would with full throttle) against the spring tension, then the whistling/whirring noise went lower (but did not dissapare). After that I put it in full throttle position with a ziptie and tried to drive - but couldn't tell a big difference. But what I find a bit strange about it, is that when the engine isn't running, then there is no spring pressure on that "kickdown" link at all - is that normal? About adjusting the rod attached to the linkage - can I do it without taking the high accumulator off from the flange?

Could you ellaborate a bit? I do not quite understand, what do you mean by wiring the lever at full stroke :S ?

Since this transmission fix will seem like a long term project on it's own, then I am leaning towards swapping the transmission as a whole in general for this summer or maybe even for a longer term. I've been working on this transmission for this whole winter time. Is there any newer transmission that would not require the torque tube to be replaced with an open driveshaft and would not require any alternations to the car and car frame? Has anyone maybe done it already? I read something about someone doing something to a 322 engine, but there is no update afterwards...

Can't quite tell so... Maybe a little, but it is not so well to differentiate. But if you floor it at 50mph, then you can definitely feel the torque and acceleration. Yes, both of them (there are two). Sad story is, that I was not able to get a suitable pressure gauge... Well, actually I know, where to get the gauge, but the problem is about getting a proper end to screw in (metric vs imperial issues). Regarding the seal - it worked very well before. Just at the end of last season it suddenly started acting like that after hitting the pedal a bit harder at the green light (nothing hard and not exactly flooring). Before that the transmission worked and functioned as it should.

The whining noise is related to transmission. That much is already certain. The noise is only apparent when the gear is either D, L or R. In neutral everything is fine. Poor performance in sense that the acceleration from 0-40 is ... very bad as if the transmission clutch is slipping. When the transmission was taken apart, then I can tell that both of the pumps are in top shape, the pump plate is clean and has no wear, the clutch pack is like new. I did replace the low band. it was a bit worn and I tought that maybe that has something to do with it. There are some rust markings (VERY OLD ones) on the flange shaft, but if those would be the ones causing the problem, then it should have been a long itme ago, since the rust places were there already then. The transmission has been taken apart about 3 years ago and everything was replaced already then (besides the low and high bands). When the car has reached 40+mph, then the performance is as it should be. And just in case - as mentioned, the valve plate and the flange has been precisely checked and cleaned. There was this graphite like excess debris or rather mass as you would expect if you had burnt your clutch or bands, but as stated, only the low band looked like worn out... But not that much. I can add pictures of the old one, but compared to the new one, it wasn't so bad. And I can not find anything or any source for this graphite like mass. Ouh, and also, the variator blades are all in neat condition and have no bents nor loose blades in the turbine. For me, as much as I have investigated the chassis manual and made the things clear for myself, then it looks like there is no pressure forming in the small inner turbine. When the transmission was taken apart, then I had my hopes in some clogged passages in the reaction shaft flange, but there wasn't nothing apparent there and as stated, cleaning did not change anything. About todays achiecements so far - I have not been able to get a pressure gauge to use in those measurment points at the actuators, front and rear pumps... That would definitely narrow down the location of the cause, but still, seems like everything that can be, has already been checked and I have no idea, what I am missing. I will be heading to the garage again today and I'll try to fiddle with the "kickdown" linkage and see, if that makes any changes...

Hello, My car has this humming of whirring sound in all ranges at low speeds with poor performance. The symptoms are perfectly described in the chassis manual with hints of checking the passages at valve body and the reaction shaft flanges. Now the transmission was taken out and everything was checked and all seemed to be good, but the problem remains. Does anyone have any ideas, what to check? Since I'm in EU, then aquiring a proper oil pressure gauge that would fit takes time (hopefully I'll get something today). Due to that I don't have the oil pressure results to aid in this issue - but maybe someone has some ideas to throw out already with the given description. With best regards, P6tu

Brakes, yes, but the function of the rod is just to displace the fluid... Now, what comes down to prices and availability, then eBay is my only friend... But I hate import taxes and the delivery times. It took a month for me to get the rebuild kit for the brakes and the total cost just for the delivery, parts, import taxes was almost 1000$... Not so cheap, if you ask me... To get the rod, then it would be cheaper to let it be crafted in here, Estonia / Europe, but it would still take some time. Little bit offtopic (not about me and not about my car) - just a general info about life in Europe: Life is very easy and basically everything is insured. But there is a cost for it - almost everything has a conciderable tax on it and half of our salary has to be paid to the governments. So statistically, in most of the countries in Europe, they can show a high average salary, but in reality, people don't get that salary. And nobody seems to be talking about the high prices in shops for food and clothes and other commodoties. For example, 1L of milk cost around 1$. A 100g chocolate bar is about the same. One regular sized McDonalds set is around 15$. Pair of cheap noname jeans is around 50$, Hilfiger denims are starting from 200$. Gasoline - 1L is at the moment around 1,5$. Cheapest vodka is around 10$. Those are prices in my country - Estonia. In German, the prices are almost double. In Iceland the prices are basically at least three times as much. I visited Iceland about 3 months ago and I bought a 0,5L Sprite - it was 10$... 30km taxi trip from airport to the hotel was 300$ (INSANE!) and it was official taxi. I didn't pay the sum, because I thought that it is a scam or something - the hotel receptionist said, that it is a normal price and it is cheaper to use a bus. Bus ticket was around 80$... That was a FML moment. Then I also understood, why they offered the bustickets on the airplane :D.

The pedal moves well. It is clearly understandable, that the rod from the booster is cause for hindering the pedal movement. I am able to wobble the pedal up to the point of the pin connecting to the rod. The pin is also free. it can be turned with fingers so there is no pressure on that too. I would be able to add lubricant from the booster vent, but I would not be able to glue the hose in place. I had my doubts before and after reading the comments that it used to be glued together in factory settings (I didn't read about replacing / reinstalling that hose from the factory manual) so I definitely want to glue that together to prevent any vacuum leaks. Come to think of it... I might look the whole vacuum system over this weekend. I have the wipers working and I shouldn't have any problems with the vacuum, but it can never be too good :D.

OK, thanks for that info. There is nothing binding or no force hindering the movement of the pedal. If I take the pin out from the pedal adjustment thing and from the pedal linkage, then the pedal moved very well without any obstructions. I will disassamble the thing again, because I did not soak the leather cup, but just smeared it so that may be one thing hindering the movement. Another thing is that hose. I will "glue" it back together with some special silicon like thing that I have.

That is what I was thinking. The rods rusty part does not get in contact with the seals. And I tought that it is only to displace the fluid so that is why I didn't see any reason to replace it - just to clean it from rust to avoid it growing on. Or is there another reason why I should replace the rod, Old-Tank? Okay. Thanks for the info. Will add this to my to-do list... I assume that Willy = Old-Tank? Since the rusty spot does not meet with the seals, then I should be cool, right? I did not replace the leather cup for the vacuum side. I didn't get a new one in the rebuild kit. I tested the vacuum and it was tight. That is why I didn't take the vacuum side apart at all. And before full assambly I added a bit of a sealant type grease all over the leather cup too, so it should be tight as hell. When I pushed it in, placed my finger at the end of the vacuum hose outside of the vacuum chamber, then it did suck and kept the suction on so a small "Fzzz" sound could be heard after releasing the finger from the hose. Altough I did have some doubts about the hose that is located inside the vacuum chamber (the circular hose). It stood very loose and I did not dare to "glue" it together with some silicon, but should I do that? This hose was very prone cause some vacuum leaks... And I must note, that the "power" is noticably lower than prior to disassambly. I know that there is a break in time for the shoes and I'm not 100% sure about anything at the moment. And I also need to note, that the brake pedal isn't returning to the original position and I can lift it about 0,5 - 1 inch after releasing it. Oh the powerbrake system is very good on the B-58. We have one Buick Special from 1958 and it does not have the power steering nor the power brakes. The difference is remarkable. Maybe not so much regarding the steering, but the power brakes should have been standard on all models. I had to apply brute force on the brake pedal for them to react while with my car at the same time I would have had the wheels skidding already (currently that does not happed due to the new shoes).

The pictures: The amount of goo inside gasoline (I used gasoline to clean the majority of dirt and rust off from the details): The dirt has settled at the bottom of the bin (insane amount and it somehow did not hinder the brakes): The power thingy cleaned and ready for placement. I did not take it apart, but because I did not see any flaws in it's work and since it is only air and nothing else, then I didn't see any reason to disassamble it. Or should I have taken it apart also? PS! There was a fair amount of rust at the point where the rod meets the brake fluid. It was apparently the location where the water from some period has eaten it away... Luckily it did not affect the work of the rod at all and the seals kept the rod tight (maybe even too tight...) A very important page that I used despite mapping the parts order anyway. A book is always a good thing to have by your side Seals in correct order ready for placement: The details assambled in correct order (and cleaned as much as possible and reasonable): I did not find any description nor explanation for the purpose of the holes at the sides of the pump location. These holes are just there and don't have any reasonable purpose. Can someone tell me, why are there holes on the side of the unit? There are four holes and they are right near the seal that goes between the power unit and the vacuum chamber. The pictures are from the same angle, just one is from distance and other is with flash to get a better view of one of the holes. One picture prior to the disassambly of the power unit: This rubber boot was very damaged (picture is prior to disassambly). I did not install it afterwards, but could someone explain me, what is the exact purpose besides keeping it neat from below? The room behind the boot isn't sealed in any way and dust has free access to that compartment there...

Hello, I had a good nice long weekend and I rebuilt the breaking system. What I still with to do, is to replace the brake lining (the metal pipes where the brake fluid runs). After a thorough disassambly of the wheel cylinders and master cylinder, I must note out that it was somewhat a miracle that the system worked at all. While the wheel cylinders were in working condition (only one had a minor leak that could be noticed only due to the fact that it had accumulated a conciderable amount of dirt around the cylinder. The master cylinder - the seals were not exactly worn out, but the whole unit was full of rust like goo. Ofcourse the seals had accumulated a fair amount of that rust on the rubber that was stuck there quite well. Luckly for me, the working area of the cylinder was in acceptable condition. Probably at some point in my cars lifetime, there has been water inside the brake system. I did some pictures just in case of the process. Also few questions arose during the rebuild process, but I still am going through the book to find the answers there first. I will upload the pictures in near future.