cricketkj26
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Posts posted by cricketkj26
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Thank you for the info Spinney ! Cricket.
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Can someone please advise what the correct torque is suppose to be for the crankshaft main bearing caps and connecting rod caps. All the caps have castle nuts and carter pins.
Also what is the best pre lubricant that should be applied when reinstalling ?. Thanks, Cricket.
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Yes the mains and rod caps have castle nuts and cotter pins on this engine. Thanks for the info. I will see if I can get some more specific quide lines for these early
Chrysler engines. Doe anyone out there that run this engine have any additional info on the proper tightening of the main and rod caps. Perhaps I should post in the
technical forum as well. Thank you both. Cricket.
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Thankyou for the information. It gives me something to go by at least . Cricket.
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Can someone please advise what the correct torque is suppose to be for the crankshaft main bearing caps and connecting rod caps. Thanks, Cricket.
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I got the crankshaft Pulley off after removing the 4 bolts in the center cross member that bolt it to the frame rail and then jacking up engine/trans assy.
The sprocket gear that was lodged in the chain case is not damaged- just the oil line that is mounted right above the sprocket gear. It bent was over 45 deg and pinched completely shut.
I was able to fix the line - there was enough tubing there behind the timing gear to cut off the pinched part and adjust the tubing run slightly.
Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions. Cant get photos to post- will try again later. Discovered other Timing issues -will address in separate post. Cricket
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This might be the ticket ! Great info. I will call the mfr - Aremco and the porcelin coatings folks and advise back next week. Thanks, Cricket.
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Thanks all for your input. There are many deep pits on this 93 yr old manifold. The base metal is quite thick but the pits are D e e p. I'll see what I can find as a possible replacement before I get my nerves to start messing around whats not cracked, blown thru, or broken. Im most likely on borrowed time before those pits start blowing thru.
Cricket
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There is alot of heavy deep pitting in the exhaust manifold. It is a 6 cylinder single casting- intake /exhaust manifold all done in one casting. There are no cracks or leaks.
The previous owner had the manifolds porcelan coated. If the porcelan is removed - is there a high heat epoxy that can stand the exhaust temps that I could use to fill in the pitting?
If so - can the assy be re porcelaned or powder coated ? Thanks, Cricket.
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The crankshaft pulley Bolt is off. No problems. I have installed the puller on the crankshaft pulley/damper assy and its coming foward just fine. The Engine is still installed in the car. The front cross member (which is not removable) has a well stamped into it that the pulley/damper assy rides in. (See above pics in my 2nd post). The pulley assembly cannot come forward enough to clear the nose of crankshaft to complete the removal unless the engine is raised up 3/4" in order for the pulley assy to clear the front of the cross member. I wanted to remove the chain case cover off the front of the engine with the engine in the car. Unless Im missing something and hopefully I am - the engine is bolted to the center cross member. Then the transmission /clutchhousing bolts solidly thru the back of that same cross member into the back of the engine. It appears
that Im going to have to remove the transmission in order to lift the engine the required 3/4" to get the pulley assy off the crankshaft ??? There are 4 bolts that hold the center cross member in place but I would trying to lift up one very long heavy eng/trans assy from under the car ( thats on jack stands) that is in there very tight. Am I missing something here ? ?
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Im so over thinking this job on getting the crankshaft pulley off. THanks for the pics. Havent attempted getting the cranknut off yet. As far as the timing set up - it sounds like its not that important to have the TDC lined before I pull the distributor out- just need to make sure when" reinstalling the distributor " that I line it all up to # 6 TDC and Then make sure that the spark when retarded is pointed on the number 6 lug of the distributor cap. Is that RIGHT ?? The oldest cars Ive worked on extensively is 1960's 4 cyl Volvos.
Im paranoid about breaking something I can t replace every time I start pulling things apart. Thanks Folks , Cricket.
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Great Info- Thanks All ! I had seen before posting, that 2 of the lock tabs were turned up. Yes that is a vibration damper on the front of the pulley as Sasha 39 says. It has 6 threaded bolt holes -3 on each side but only 4 had bolts utilized in a square bolt pattern. Ill get a 3/4 drive 2" socket and pull bar from work. Will machine a special
insert washer with very small id to cover the hole in crank where crank handle goes in and see how a 3 leg puller fits up - We can fab up and machine a 4 legged spreader bracket puller if need be. I am very concerned about that Generater sprocket gear still being in the chain case. its lodged in there against the spindle shaft and the chain is around it. Havent been able to get it out. Im going to take some 1/4" x 4" long wooden dowels and try to lift the chain up and insert the dowels around the sprocket as spacers and then I can hopefully work it free and slide it out the back of the chain case opening. Ive learned a hard lesson on this one . Oh By the way where the heck is the timing mark ? - its not on the chain case cover. Will advise on outcome. Are any of you folks going to be at Hershey ? Would really like to talk to you folks that are knowledgable of these early Chryslers.I have a lot of questions. I dont think there is anyone in Florida - Ive only located two other cars and one is a 4 cyl.
Cricket - Lake City, FL USA
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No - Not easily .It has a flanged cast Iron cover with 13 bolts that covers the flywheel. Trans is still on engine in the vehcile, The car is up on Jack stands 26" off the floor.
I can put the trans. in gear and apply max setting on Emergency brake which clamps around drum mounter Trans output shaft. I also took the four small bolts out of the
the crank pulley. (It looks like its a split 2 pc pulley ?) I will get a 2" socket from work tomorrow. Do I attempt removing the crank bolt clockwise or counter clockwise when looking aft towards the firewall ? I have to get into the Timing chain case to get the generator sprocket gear back on the spindle and correctly lined back up. Idiot me forgot that I had removed the generator and sprocket plate and attempted to hand crank the engine over to #1 top dead center. Needless to say the sprocket gear cocked and came off the spindle and is now lodged in chain case. See attached photos. Thanks for any advise . Cricket
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I need to remove the crankshaft pulley to get into the timing case. Can someone please advise if bolt is left hand or right hand threaded. Engine turns over fairly easy-
Any tips on being able to get this bolt out ? How do keep the engine from spinning while trying to break the bolt loose ? Thanks, Cricket.
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Sounds like CarbKing is definately the King of Old Carbs. You Aussies, New Zealanders are always extremely helpful on these old first Chryslers. THanks to all who provided photos and data copies. Great Info! I have a direction to go in now. Cricket Any of you folks from down under know what color the head and block were orignally on these
G70 chryslers ? I have looked at every engine photo I can find on the old interweb and no two are the same. The 1925/26 heads were not red heads and my head doesnt say Siverdome on it. Would Silver head and black block or grey block be correct ? Currently the block and head are red with black cover plates. Thanks, Crick
et.
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I don have mold and dirt build up problem - My trailer and many others I veseen ( worse on white trailres) are the black vertical streaks that seem to come from some kind of reaction with horizontal aluminum trim strip that runs along the top of trailer that joins the roof panels to the side skin. Over time the black streaks form . It is very difficult to get off. Magic eraser helps but will not thorughly clean it off. Many trailres have this streaking problem -. Any ideas ? Cricket
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This has been a great topic that has generated some really good information on these old purolator filters. Thanks to all who have posted in this thread. Sasha39 - A great thanks for posting the old Purolaotor brochure. It was very useful . I was calling it a cannister but I have the disposable can filter. Now I know its an S-2 or SG-2 It looked to be in real good conditon untill I bead blasted it, - Pin holes and larger from Corrosion all over it. I bought at the same time- an A-1 which I had seen only 1 photo of one but had no Idea if it was correct for a 25 G70. It must me full of sludge - it weighs a ton. The mount feet holes matched perfect to the firewall holes. Well now I know what it is and it is correct for my car. I just have to come up with something to replace the pot metal multi port connector block that attaches to it to connect the oil and guage lines. Anyone have any ideas on that ? Thanks again for all the input from everyone. Alain -best of luck on your roadster project. Cricket Lake City, FL USA
Oh one more thing -never mind iLL START ANOTHER TOPIC as It has nothing to do with these oli filters but is engine related.
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I have a 26 model year Chrysler G70 . I have talked to Bob at Bobs Automobilia before about the cannisters he offers. They are not the same dia or length as the old Purolator cannisters and the fitting sizes dont match either ( if you are trying to match the original Purolator). They do look closer than anything else but will not fit the original Chrysler brackets. If anybody knows of a supplier that makes reproduction Purolator cannister please let us Chrysler folks know. I would love to get a hold of one. Cricket.
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The Fedco # is WL488H. Is one of the three a better functioning carb assuming they are thouroughly rebuilt correctly and adjusted correctly ? Cricket
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Can one of you folks advise what the correct carb is suppose to be on a 218CID G70 Chrysler? Built in Oct 1925 It has a Dodge Bros Detroit Lubricator on it now.
It runs ok but its obviously not correct. Stromberg OS 2 ?? Thanks, Cricket Eng S/N G101113 Head 53948 2 Block 53951-4 10/2/25
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Thanks for the Info Oily Rag ! Hopefully I can get it the pin out without any problems. Cricket
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This was my first time attending the national meeting and first time to Philadelphia. It was definately a trip to remember !
Im from a small town in north Florida so going to a big city like Philadephia is an experiance all by itself. What a cab ride to the hotel from the airport
on Thursday afternoon in the middle of that superbowl celebration ! Thats another whole story there - the cab driver driver pulled over 10 city blocks from the hotel and tried to kick us out or he was taking us back to the airport! He finally did get us within 2 1/2 blocks from the hotel after he got the msg that we werent
gonna pay him untill he got us within sight of hotel. The plane ride home was the roughest (cinch up your seatbelt tight the whole way and pray ) flight Ive ever been on.
All the AACA folks were all very friendly as was the hotel staff. I took in all the big events - the first lady's breakfast, the presidents dinner, national mtg, and the awards banquet. The meals were all very good. The donuts and coffee were great. Yes the banquet cost is steep but alot of that cost is for facility costs and wait staff. I will say that the $13.00 box lunch and then $3.00 bottle wtr or can soda Really fried my gizzard . Saturday the hotel conciere steered us to Rexes - a huge philly cheese steak ,fries, and a drink for $12.00 It was great ! Annie is right about having some offering of fruit in the mornings. The comedian at the first ladys breakfast was histerically hilarious- just ask our outgoing president - he got roasted all the way to well done- not even a little pink was left and the same for the two guys sittIng up front. Ralph Towner introduced me to alot of national folks. Speaking of Ralph - Kudos to him for his 2nd editors award presented at the banquet. I wont attend on an annual basis due to the overall cost but Ill be back. Thanks to all the staff and volunteers - ITS ALOT OF WORK ! JKJ
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Can someone please advise how to remove the distributor ? Is there a lock ring /tab somewhere or roll pin that needs to be removed ?
I have not removed a distributor from any engine other than a 67 Ford Mustang- quite a long time ago. Thanks, Cricket
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Looking Great ! Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress. Best of Luck to you ! Im putting it on my travel list. Cricket
Rod Brg Cap, Main Brg cap Torque 1925/26 G70 219ci
in Chrysler Products - General
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I was wondering about that - just going ahead and replacing the bolts. Youre right about the threads for sure. Learned that the hard way myself on a number of nuts and bolts that I used std dies and taps to just " chase the threads ". Then I found out out on these AACA forums there really are " Thread chasing Dies and Taps" which I now have a set of them. They are not found at a hardware store or a Home Depot either. One has to order them in. Cricket.