cricketkj26
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Posts posted by cricketkj26
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Danny and Mr McDonald, A good possibility for parts is a company https://www.aerrebuild.com/
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders, Contact is Jason - Owner. He did complete electrical, mechanical, and cosmetic restoration
on the starter, generater, and distributer for my 1925 Chrysler G70. All were made by Remy Electric Co and all 3 were original to
the car. These are now basically in like new condition. He has alot of parts and many many OLD original factory parts breakdowns,
books, and service manuals for early manufacturers of starters, generators, and distributors. Best of Luck, CricketKJ26
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
Address: 16574 S. Bauer Rd Grand Ledge, MI 48837
Phone: 517-345-7272 or 866-228-0218
Email: jason@aerrebuild.com
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IF the rear brakes really are the original 1926 Chrysler hydraulic brake system Then they are part of the Lockheed 4 wheel hydraulic brake system and has external contracting 1.5" wide brake bands that mounts all the way around the outside perimeter of the 13-7/8" brake drums that is bolted thru the wood spoke rim and rear wheel bearing hub assys. The supply line from the brake reservoir to the master cylinder was 3/8" dia copper tubing. The distribution lines From the master to the left and right side tees was 5/16" copper tubing. The brake lines to the wheel cylinders were 1/4" dia copper tubing. I described all that
so you can see that the original master cylinder(bolted to the side of the transmission) had to supply a Huge Volume of fluid thru those Large brake lines.
it was truly a High Volume Low pressure system as those original master cylinder didnt put out much pressure. To the points brought up by others - It looks like
one - there is not enough Volume of fluid, two- a mixing of different type systems, master cylinder, and line sizes. Those old Lockheed systems were very
difficult to bleed as Wayne stated. One other important note on external contracting band brakes (I've read several times and been told several times -
they dont work worth a flip in the rain. If you dont have these old external hydraulic brakes on the car - throw out this rambling reply ! CricketKJ26
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This has been asked before several years ago - Has anyone ever seen or know of a red engine block and head as a correct engine color with all covers, oil pan, and other bolt ons being black ? That is the color of the engine and head when I my uncle got the car in 2001. It is the original
engine for this car.. Car and mechanicals were original when completely disassembled in 1998- Car body, engine, everything. Paint, interior, ect, was done correctly. The engine ?? Head is Not a Redhead or Siverdome ( those were on later models ) part # on head is as listed in April 1926
Chrysler 70 owners manual . I have looked at many photos of G70 and B70 engines 1924 thru27 and the engine block and head colors are
all over the place and I have only seen 2 that were all black. All the 4 cylinders seem to be all black. I would like to paint the engine and head
the correct colors since it is all apart. I would think there would still have been some evidence of engine paint still remaining after sitting in a
barn in Kentucky for 40 years - 1947 to 1999 ?? Below is a photo of the engine when I got it ( painted red as it was done during the frame off ).
Thanks, Cricket
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Thanks for the info Viv, Leomara, and Feeney. I ended up using a load leveler very similar to the one Leomara posted photo of- it had the 4 attachment chains
with L brackets that went on the studs. Engine came out easily once I got the transmission broken loose from the guide pins. Apologies on late reply - Got kicked off the
forum for 30 days for a Political rant on Electric cars. Viv thanks for the info on the Gen coupling. Head came off fairly easy. Getting the trans loose, after all the linkages
were off was the the hard part. Thanks, Cricket
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The Headlights are not for a 1927 70. The 27's did not have a brow on the trim ring. The trim ring would be round with rounded edges and The black light housings
were bullet shaped The headlights shown on this car with brow trim rings and the flat back drum housings were used on 6 cylinder Mdl 60, B70, and G70 Chryslers from 1924 thru mid year
1926 and then changed to the bullet style head lights. I have a G70 built in Oct/Nov 1925. The Fedco # plate on the dash to the left of the steering wheel has the code for the serial #.
Yes parts are very difficult to find and Jay Astheimer does have Alot of used parts for 24 to 29 Chryslers. Olsen Gaskets has all the engine gaskets. The engines on the 70's and 60's
and the transmissions are very well built as well as the rear ends. I have learned by working on my mine and from the folks on this Chrysler Forum who share a wealth of knowledge.
I wouldnt buy one expecting to make money on it. For some reason very few people are interested in owning them. Lack of Parts availability might be the biggest issue. To me its
a sharp looking car - a labor of enjoyment and learning. My first go at a car not from the sixties or newer. Best of Luck - Im hooked on to these old first generation Chryslers - Go For It !!
CricketKJ26
25 Chrysler G70 Coach
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Nice Find and Car ! With a lot of good comments for things to do for Old vehicles that have been sitting for many years. Please Keep the posts Coming.
Us folks that don't have extensive knowledge of prewar car mechanics pick up alot of very helpful info.
Thanks, CricketKJ26
25 Chrysler G70 Coach
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Nice looking Phaeton! The 4 wheel hydraulic brake system is made by Lockheed. Original Wheel cylinder seals were leather.
Now a days they are buna N or Viton rubber. I have a 25 G70 2 door coach ( built in Oct/Nov 25). I am not a professional mechanic
or machinist. Im just a do everything myself type that has worked on all kinds of gas & diesel stuff - but NOT REAL OLD car stuff. I Have learned
alot about these first original mid twenties Chryslers and still have quite alot to still learn and ask about. Ive made some blunders too.
First there are no parts kits any more for the Lockheed 4 wheel hydraulic brake system on these 24 thru 27 Chryslers. On mine -All four wheel
cylinders and the master were leaking badly. Here in the US the wheel cylinders and master cylinder are rebuilt by boring out the cylinders
due to alot pitting and corrosion, then installing stainless steel or brass sleeve liners, with new pistons and rubber seals to fit. That
procedure is not a do it yourself and there is not many shops that know how to do it correctly. Narve's procedures to free the piston must have
worked. Hopefully You can find a premade seal of some type that will work. Please let us know. I have now completed the brake system rebuild
including replacing all the brake band linings, all new copper lines, new copper sealing rings with the centering tabs, resleeved cylinders, ect, ect.
Have not added the fluid and bled the system yet. From the comments of folks on the forum Im expecting Leaks from the wheel cylinders and
master and some of them will probably have to go back to the shop that did the resleeving. Std Dot 3 brake fluid will dissolve the paint off anything
it gets on so regularly check for leaks and attend to them quickly. I realize all this was not your question. But hopefully other folks may find something
useful. There are folks on this forum that have many years experience and are very knowledgeable on these early first generation Chryslers.
They share a great deal of info and Tips. Thanks and apologies for the long commentary. CricketKJ26 If Im in left field on anything i stated
by all means you folks please pipe up and advise.
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Folks - I Have 2 issues that I need some advice on 2 issues.
1. The Engine Head Studs - 218 Cu.Inch I have everything ready to lift engine out. I have a Load leveler for the engine hoist.
the questions are Do I need to remove the head studs in the block and use Gr 8 bolts in the holes where I intend to attach the
two lifting brackets. The stud height is 2.5 " I have only ever pulled engines that had Head Bolts not studs. There are 3 rows
of 7 studs. I was planning on using very back corner stud/or bolt and very front opposite corner Stud/ or Bolt. There is .875" of
threads on the studs. Advice and or comments please.
2. Generator Shaft Coupling - No point in going into alot of info on how all 6 pcs of the spring steel laminations of the coupling
that slide into the Generator shaft got broken off- Other than they worked probably as designed - like a sheer pin - to protect
the gen. shaft from damage and keeping it from braking off ( The only incriminating info im telling is yes Im the idiot that did it
and the engine was not even running. I hand cranked it over- Obviously more to the that story - BIG Lesson Learned the hard
way) I have NO prewar engine experience. SO I have whats left of the 5 or six shattered flat spring steel pieces that go into the boss end of the coupling (cplg) head. There is no damage to the cplg head, or the round little pin that holds the spring steel laminations in the cplg, Generator shaft is fine. Just my Pride and the spring stl laminations were damaged. I need the length
of the spring stl laminations. I have the width, thickness, number of pieces, and that each of the 4 corners of the laminations
have a 45 deg chamfer clipped off each corner. Also any info on the actual material specs would be appreciated. I am Assuming
it it is some grade of thin spring steel.
Thanks All for several years of info provided. Im getting close and the end is in sight to the day she fires up and comes out of the garage under its own power. Its close to 7 years on jack stands and many many hours on creepers. Thanks, Cricket kj26
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Once I get the inner seals changed out again, Im ready for reinstallation of the axle shafts. Attached are pics of the all the components.
I temporarily sat the outer seal and bearing cup (or Brg race) hub assy on the shaft so one can see how it sits. Dont exactly understand
how, with having such a large ID of the outer felt seal around the axle shafts - how it can actually keep the grease in with that much of an opening.
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I was afraid of that being the case. But better to confirm that now than figure that out when trying to install the shafts and set the end play. VIv, you recommended
2-3 thousands for the end play. I found that the 70 owners manual under Axle Shafts (towards the back of the book, pg 51, eleventh edition) is saying 8 thou - .008"
that sounds like alot. Have attached pics of the old bearings in place when I removed the hubs. It appears that the differential gear oil was leaking past the inner
seals and into the wheel bearing grease. Also, all the wheel cylinders were leaking pretty badly but I dont see how Brake fluid would have got into the axle tube and wheel bearings. The car sat in a car trailer, stored for 7 years prior to me getting the car. Since it had
no brakes - onto the jack stands it went - 4 years ago.
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Another possible problem - Did I put the inner seals in backwards ? Hope not. See attached photos. I dont know which side of the felt seal metal housing
is suppose be facing out -Smooth rounded edge or how I put them in with the raised sealed edge facing out ? I dont think I can remove them without damaging
them. I'll have to use modern Lip seals If they need to come out. Found some photos of the outer bearings and seals before I removed them . Looks like the inner
seals had failed flooding the bearings and brg grease with differential lube. I'll post those separately so I dont overload on file size. The raised sealed lip sticks up proud approx 1/16". Thanks, Cricket
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Yes he is Still doing "early" Chrysler parts Mostly pre 1930.
Jay Astheimer , cell (610) 462-3631, astheime@ptd.net,
Cricket
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Thanks Viv. I certainly did not know that tip. They would have burnt out. About how much
gear oil on the new seals ? Like soak it good all around the perimeter of the felt untill its saturated ? Sorry I have no experience with felt seals only lip seals, rubber and cork gskts.
Glad you like the wrench. I have a good friend that is a retired Tool & Die and prototype machinist that still works from his home shop. He is a great resource, key member of our local AACA region here in north Florida, and active with the national meets. It feels good
to finally get back on this car project - it has been on jack stands for 4 years now.
Cricket
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Well folks obviously my memory is fading,;, Went down to the garage to take some photos and take a look at the axel tubes and the front end of the differential.
Inner seals I installed are NOT modern day lip seals . They are Victor #14902 felt seals enclosed in a all metal housing. Photos attached showing the seal and
the threaded screw-in bearing cup hub and the special spanner wrench that was made for those hubs so that I could remove them after many years. What do yall think about these old style seals ? They are never used and in excellent condition. I have tried this week to see if these are still available anywhere to have some spares and to advise everyone of a source for them. No Luck. Also just info purposes- including pictures of the bearing cup hub . There is a felt outer seal , seal retainer washer, and retainer clip ring that are not yet installed. All of you well seasoned Chrysler folks know all this. I am learning as I go thanks to all of you and hopefully some less experienced folks can
can learn something too. Will follow up with pics of the outer seal and associated parts installed in the hub. Cricket
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Thanks to both your replys. Both shafts are out of the original differential to the car.
There are no numbers stamped on the axles , Both are the same lengths, The axle tubes do have the screw in knotched flange hubs that hold the bearing cups and felt grease seals.
Question: The Oils seals that I was supplied and installed are spring loaded lip seals, It is the modern replacement but will they hold up and is it the best thing to to be using ?
Cricket KJ Lake CIty, FL
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Sorry, mine is a 2 Door 5 passenger Coach . there are 2 single front seats, The wood framing is different. Cricket
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Will this work for Bypass only oil filter system - 1925/26 218 cu inch 6 Cyliner ? Cricket
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i pulled both rear axles out about three years ago to replace all the seals and bearings . I pulled a novice mistake - didnt mark on them left and right.
They look identical.Both look to be in very good shape. One has some slight wear on the spline end- a little more than the other one, No rolled edges
on either one. I have no experience with rear ends other than changing axle shaft bearings and grease seals. The cover is off the rear end. and I have made
a new cork gasket. Driveshaft has not been removed. (2) Questions - 1. Does it make any difference which shaft is left and right ? If so - how do I fiqure that
out now ? 2. What else do i need to check or do while I have the rear end open and the axles out, Car was running and driving before going on the four jack
stands. Every seal and gasket on the rear end and axles was leaking pretty good. Front pinion seal is also leaking a good bit but that is a lot more complicated
so that will be a complete new topic after I get the axles back in. THanks, Cricket
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Viv Is a Tourer the same thing as a Roadster or a Phaeton ?
Cricket KJ
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2 hours ago, leon bee said:
I cleaned up my act in 1978 so it's been almost 42 years since I had a drop to drink nor any illicit drug. At the time, I had nothing left from my pre-Army days. And the only things I still owned from post Army crazy days were two shotguns, two BSA motorcycles, and my 53 Buick Roadmaster pickup. Life has been good since then, leon bee ain't my real name.
Glad you made it thru all the turmoil -both Nam and your aftermath. Thumbs Up,Affirm.
Cricket JKJ
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I wasnt born until 62 so I was only 10 in 72 when things were pretty much winding down.My father was a flight engineer on a
B24 bomber flying missions over Germany towards the end of WWII. When he came home to Jacksonville FL he went to work for
the US Navy for 40 yrs repairing aircraft and worked his way up. He was transferred around a good bit and sometimes we lived
on the navy base where he was stationed or in the local community with military families living all around us, We were taught
to respect our country, our flag and most of all the military servicemen and their families. Bare with me folks - The last 4 yrs of
Nam and for several years after he was stationed at NAS Cecil Field- a jet base for A4's and A7's that rotated in and out to Vietnam
area carriers. All my friends in the neighbor hood and at the local school had fathers serving over there -either Navy or Marines.
My oldest brother and my sisters husband enlisted and served on the aircraft carrier USS Forrestal which was deployed over there
Every night we watched the local and reports of local and national news with coverage of Nam - especially for the reports of
of casualties to local squadrons. Every night Walter Cronkite would give the number of service men killed or wounder that day and
a total for whole duration of the war. We had friends whose dads were never coming home and friends whose dads were being deployed.
I saw first hand how Vietnam affected families, and even my dad as he lost friends and colleagues. He was always so upset at the
way all the Vietnam vets were treated. All that to say what a healthy respect all of us kids in our family has for our all of our service men
and women that served in the Vietnam war, The tears are now flowing down onto the keyboard and I am literally crying right now for the
way alot of Americans treated our Vietnam Vets and for the way many dont appreciate our Armed Service personnel. THANKYOU TO ALL
OF YOU MEN AND WOMEN WHO HAVE SERVED. My heart goes out to you with such deep respect. Now that I Hijacked the topic -
I would stand there assisting my day while he worked on the cars, trucks, lawn mowers, boat engines, tvs, radios, or any other appliances
that were broke especially for families whose dad was deployed or was killed over there. He could fix anything -mechanical, electrical,
or electronics. He learned alot of skills in the military and while working for the military. I loved working on cars with him - In turn I learned
to be a Do It Yourself Gearhead and a Shade Tree Mechanic from my US Veteran Father. He Passed away and was buried at sea from the
decks of a US Navy destroyer in the Gulf of Mexico in 1993. Thankyou to the United States of America US Armed Forces .
To our Vietnam Vets -WOOYA !!
Sincerely, Kelly Jordan Lake City ,FL
1964 Volvo 122S (sold) My first car and restoration
1967 Mustang Coup
1925 Chrysler G70 2 door Coach
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THANK YOU SHARING THIS .It is very moving. My Heart goes out to ALL of the law enforcement officers across our nation. Every day these brave men and women with a sense of duty and pride for their city, state, and nation, go to off work putting their selves in harms way. They all just want to do their job to keep all of us across this nation for our freedoms, safety, and that people follow the rules. These gallant folks expect to go home to their families and friends every day. Alot of them dont make it. Thanks to all of you brave folks that serve or have served !
Kelly Jordan Lake City, FL
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The Exhaust/intake manifold is is not correct for a 1925/1926 Crylser six - they don't have the upward curl and flat area over the end exhaust port
like both of these in photos. The manifold is more or less straight across and turns 90 deg into the #1 exhaust port. Cricket
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I have a 25 G70 2 door Coach- pics attached. Body should be exactly the same as B70 I think ?? What is the difference between a B70 and a G70 ?
I have not heard of a B70 before but Im no expert by any means at all . I "assumed" that the B series was B60 and G was a G70,. We all know what assuming things get you. I can provide photos of anything on the car if needed. The front cowlings and radiator is off the car right now and just the long block and the rest of the drive train is in the car right now but you have all that done. Its been 3 years trying to get this thing going. Cricket - Lake City, FL, USA
Starter or parts needed 1924 Chrysler 6 or B70
in Technical
Posted
CLARIFICATION MY Car is a 1926 G70 Chrysler Built in Oct/Nov/ 1925. The Remy starter Model# is a 724-B.
I will try to find my 1931 Remy Delco Parts book that has all the Remy and Delco Model #s, and lists the year, car mfr, car mdl#,
and parts breakdown for starters, generators, distributors, and voltage requlators. CricketKj26