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deac
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Posts posted by deac
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1 hour ago, The 55er said:
Plenty of pictures but no views from the front showing the bumper & grille, I don't know if that's significant or not.
Go to the Facebook link and watch the video; it does capture a view of the front end. From what I can see it looks okay.
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It has an avocado green interior; can you dig it?
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looks like the 40 La Salle steering wheel (not the horn ring) is the same as used on the 38 Buick. Maybe I will sell my 38 Buick wheel as a 40 La Salle and make more money! It's fully restored!
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I am no Mopar afficionado but these late 40's Chryslers are pretty neat looking! However the pictures on this leave a lot to be desired!
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6 hours ago, Twisted Shifter said:
50% depreciation in 8 years! Either this is a bargain, the seller is ignorant and using the wrong sales venue, or the market is really going to hell.
Here's another example of falling prices:
I was at the Barrett Jackson Scottsdale auction and I saw a very nice restored 1957 Buick Century 2 door hardtop go for 22 grand; after fees and taxes 24,200. I looked at that car afterwards and verified the quality of the restoration and thought the seller gave that car away! https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1957-BUICK-CENTURY-RIVIERA-271392
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SOLD!!!
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I ran across this sheet of definition in used car ads:
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Nice La Salle convertible but lacks pizazz! Too much brown! The exterior is brown, the interior is brown and the top looks like a dark tan; boring! It car be fixed for pretty steep price which makes it unappealing to me even at the $35 grand price. GLWTS
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On 1/14/2024 at 5:24 AM, EmTee said:
At this point I would probably back-off the adjustment a bit as Bloo suggests. Next, I would set the car on the ground with a pry bar under one front tire. Using a block of wood as a fulcrum, i would have someone pry up under the tire repeatedly while listening for any metal-on-metal noise and watching for any movement in the wheel, king pin and linkage joints. Have you looked at the front shocks and their attachment at the frame and steering knuckle? Could the bang be a loose Pitman arm or something inside the steering box?
Well I bought those steering link internal parts from Doug Seybold. I found the springs were too long. So the only way I could make it work is to install one of the old spring and one of the new springs. Besides that it went together without any other issue. I will speak to Doug about the spring length! I test drove the car. I test drove the car and the bang noise is still there. It's heard when going over speed bumps. I re-read the recommendations in this thread from Emtee and Bloo and they are next diagnose procedures on my my list!
I thought this noise was a result of the broken steering link. Now I am not so sure this is an related issue. With the tie rods replaced, the right steering link fixed and internal hardware renewed and adjusted I wonder is it's actually related or if it's a coincidental failure!
On 1/14/2024 at 11:01 PM, Bloo said:I don't know about a pop noise. Are you sure it even comes from this part? Is there a way to take that part loose so you can swing it in all directions to check? Adjust a little tighter and check again? Repeat? When it starts to drag, it should drag everywhere equally. I'll bet it doesn't.
If you are running it as loose as i think you might be, it's gonna make noise when the sockets bottom out. That, along with sloppy steering is just part of the deal, but only when adjusted too loose because the ball is worn out. When the ball isn't worn out, it shouldn't have enough play in it to make noise. The gap between the back side of those ball sockets and whatever they bump into should be basically zero if the ball is perfectly round. How could there be enough movement to make any noise?
Most of my experience with joints like this is decades old. I don't remember where I was getting parts, but probably NAPA or another store here "All Foreign", that is no longer extant. There was a parts man in there who could find ANYTHING, if there was just one more left in a dusty box in a warehouse somewhere, and it didn't need to be foreign. Sometimes joints like those did need internal parts. The sockets the balls ran in were sometimes plastic and they could be all torn up or broken. I've seen broken springs too. Recently I serviced a joint like that on my Pontiac, and the internal parts were all fine once cleaned up. Much to my surprise the ball was OK too. If it had been bad like I expected it to be, my plan was to check with The Filling Station, who sell a replacement ball for Chevrolet, and hope it was the same size. I don't know if it is. If it turned out to be different than Chevrolet, I would have had a real problem.
Since it's a Buick I guess I would call Bobs even if they don't have those parts listed. Maybe they know something.
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Though I am not a fan of mid to late 50's Lincolns, this on look pretty good! What is astonishing about the seats is not only is it the wrong fabric but they made absolutely no attempt in making the colors match or the stitch pattern match the existing interior. It's almost as if the seats were swapped with another car! GLWTS
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The one thing that sticks out is the aftermarket aluminum radiator. After all the originality of this car I would think that the owner would track down an original iron radiator. However this is on beautiful Ford Fairlane and because of it's great restoration I think the 20 grand price is not too far off! As we all know you could not put together a 57 Fairlane for 20. The challenge to seller faces is find the right buyer!
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I am so used to seeing the GM fastbacks that these Packard's did not grab me at first. But these Packard's have grown on me thanks to this website!. I do like these 2 door fastbacks. I think I would want the blue one as seen in the link. For 2 reasons; I don't see restoring this grey/black one for anything under 55 grand. The 2nd reason is what I commented on with the blue Packard and that is the parts availability. Maybe it's because I've had GM and Ford cars and I haven't made any Packard parts connections. I still love that blue one!
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I have seen this trend and it's a little disappointing. However there are maybe are a small handful of members that actually post the bulk of the ads and of that there 2 or maybe 3 that stand out. I am not going name names hats off to them as their contributions are very much appreciated! If it were not for these contributors this probably would be half of what it is today. My point is that this is a forum with a general description and direction of what it's all about and it's up to the members to keep it going. We are all free to post old car ads of our liking at any price.
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A 1936 Pontiac coupe - awesome!
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It looks like a nice car but.... For the ridiculous amount of money the seller is asking I would expect a very high quality driver at an absolute minimum. There's something going on under that shaggy rear seat cover. There's a paint issue on the right rear quarter panel. The floor mats are faded badly. The left edge of the speaker grille is cracked and the engine compartment needs attention. Who knows what else is going on with this Lincoln?
I like these types of Lincoln's but I don't I'll be calling on this one for 47,350 duckets.
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7 hours ago, Bloo said:
Nothing is ever easy, is it? The short answer is almost anything that will physically fit. 1940 Buick? Doesn't that have an Electrolock armored ignition? If so the answer is really easy, nothing has been made for decades that fits that. NOS and NORS aftermarket from Ebay and NOS Buick parts dealers. Many online vendors advertise coils for Electrolock equipped cars that will work electrically but not fit the Electrolock. They rarely point that detail out.
The voltage spec is pretty much meaningless. It is the maximum the coil can produce, and has no bearing at all on what voltage the spark will run at. It is a spec that comes mostly from marketing people who want to advertise a big number. A higher voltage coil is no advantage, and might be a disadvantage if you want to split hairs because it is probably going to have shorter spark duration. Enough to matter? I doubt it. Any coil you can lay your hands on is going to have enough voltage available for a 40 Buick.
The 1.5 ohms (or whatever) matters, but doesn't really tell you much about the coil. That resistance directly affects the current through the points, or through the transistor that replaced them, so it does matter. To that end, you wouldn't really want it to be any lower that whatever the maker of the electronic ignition wants. Lower resistance raises the current.
In practice most American coils are about the same resistance, about 1.2-1.5 ohms if memory serves. This is because most 6V coils, 40s and later for sure, expect to be running on a 7.5 volt-while-charging electrical system. Most 12V coils expect to be running on about 7.5 or 8 volts on a 14+ volt system, after the voltage is dropped by a ballast resistor. There are coils meant to run on a 12 system directly. Typically they have about double the resistance of the normal ones. You probably don't want one of those, unless the car has been 12 volt converted, and in that case maybe you do.
Thanks Boo,
Your information is always helpful and insightful on whatever topic I manage to bring up. Now I have a basis for what I am looking for.....
As always your input is much appreciated,
Chris
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1 hour ago, edinmass said:
For plain non descript coils, I use Brillman.
Very reasonable, and multiple options.
I appreciate the referral. Thanks Ed.
Chris
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9 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:14 hours ago, edinmass said:
Hello…….dont want to get into a diatribe about converting it. Don’t bother…….I can give you a bunch of reasons. There is NO ADVANTAGE whatsoever with the conversion. And you're much more likely to have problems. It’s a solution that’s looking for a problem that doesn’t exist. GM was the world’s largest corporation and certainly the best engineering company on the planet in 1940. Billions of miles have been en driven on Delco distributors with no issues. Can’t say the same for the conversions.
Ed, I really value your opinions and knowledge. Respectfully I would ask you to re-read my initial post. The ignition system has already be converted by a previous owner and works fine. I simply want to know how to ask a parts counter person, who is not a Buick guy, for the appropriate coil.
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I guess I didn't make my intentions clear.
I want to replace my coil in my 1940 Buick Super that's previously converted to electronic ignition and I want to know which one to ask for at the local parts store.
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I want to replace the in my 1940 Buick super with electronic ignition. How do I choose the correct coil? I understand the workings of a coil but I don't know how to choose the appropriate one for the car. I think Cars sells a replacement coil that is 1.5ohm's and produces 55000 volts. Is that appropriate for an electronic ignition? Are those the spec's I should looks at my local parts
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From what I see this is not an XR-7 model. But it does have the bucket seats with the center console. It was noted above about the interior needing major work; I wouldn't call it major work. It needs a dash pad and yeah they're pricey but available. The rear seat back looks dried out but it is not ripped! The two front seat backs are torn so a trip to an upholsterer for a quote would be necessary. It may need carpeting because those tacky floor mats could be hiding something. Carpets kits are not that expensive and they can be easily installed in a few hours. I will bet those hub caps are original to the car; see photo below.. 12 grand may be a little aggressive but it's reason.
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1 hour ago, Fossil said:
Not around here. $2000 at most and that's if the guy is a great salesman and he keeps the hubcaps. What are the odds of the transmission bolting up to that engine?
At $6500 I was being nice. But $2000 may be shrewd but you might be right!
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Not sure of the planet the seller is on but these cars don't much more than 17 grand with a motor and decent paint. This is a 6500 dollar car. Question becomes did they cut up the suspension to install air bags?
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I wonder if all those dash knobs work... I think this old girl might clean up pretty well. I bet if the seller spent a day or two cleaning up the car it would prompt a faster sale and get perhaps closer to the asking price. You always want to take pictures of a car in the best light possible! On the upholstery, it's seems as though it's a pretty straight forward fabric used and you maybe able to side step SMS and get close to original look with a fabric off the shelf from your local upholstery shop.
GLWTS
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For Sale: 1953 Packard Convertible - "In great shape, Fun to drive" - Tulsa, OK - Not Mine
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
Appear to be a good value for a convertible.