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deac

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Posts posted by deac

  1. Hey,

    Did you get a straight six cylinder or an eight cylinder?  These motors are not the most valuable but perform pretty well for a flat head when they are in good condition.  The manual transmissions are pretty good and were a shared with Buick and possibly other GM divisions.  However those 3spd manuals don't hold up very well behind a hopped up motor.  The Hydromatics are pretty good but are not a performance automatic transmission.  I would read that early times article about the engines.  Yes they were used from the 30's to the 50's but there horse powers gains made through the years.  I would try to get the engine number of the deck of driver side of the engine block near the water pump and see just what year that engine was manufactured to verify that it is either original to your car or that it is the last version (most horsepower) of the flat head.

  2. Allen,

     

    I only know of a few '40 Torpedo's still around today.  These cars are basically the same as the Buick Super but with the Pontiac drive-train, interior and ornamentation.  There's one for sale on Hemming's in Alabama , you, me and Kurt Kelsey are the only one's I know of.  I'll shoot some pics of this wrecked one and post them.

     

    Chris

     

    PS:  If any other 40 Torpedo's (coupes or sedans) out there I would be grateful if you replied with a short description of your car and maybe a photo too!

     


     

    20161009_091157.jpg

  3. Ran across a 1940 Pontiac Torpedo coupe which is the only GM C-body Pontiac available that year.  It's quite a rare car!  A tree fell on it and it's been sitting for years.  There are no seats, the steering wheel is gone, in fact I don't remember seeing a dashboard.  It does have mechanical and suspension parts.  I am going to see it a second time tomorrow.   If anyone has a need for '40 Torpedo parts please reply.

  4. Glad it seems to working out for you.

     

    Geez, the search I've gone though to piece together the optional Flexible deluxe steering has taken two years.  I think I have located the horn ring for it; but the seller says the horn ring will need some repairs and probably to be re-chromed.  After that's done then I need to install it and that's going to take time basically because between you and Kurt I am going to need to search for some hard to find mounting pieces.  I have the standard Torpedo steering wheel and it does not mount the same way the Flexible Deluxe wheel does. 

     

    Chris

  5. Hi,

     

    Thanks for the responses.  I remember reading somewhere very recently that it was not until 1938 or 1939 that GM ok'd the Buick division to paint their wheels the "dante red" color, but only as an option!  The non option color was body color.  I will contact Dave regarding the parts.

     

    I know that Pontiac painted a lot of their wheels "carteray red" in the 40's and 50's.  

  6. I'm buying a '39 Century. It has a '37 320CI engine in it. I need an air cleaner assembly and the spark plug cover for it.

     

    On another note, can anyone tell me what color the pin stripping on the wheels were originally? This was the 1st year for an optional 'dante red' painted rim. In my case the car is painted black. I think pin stripe is silver but it may have been body color.

  7. Hi,

     

    I own a '40 Pontiac Torpedo coupe with the same problem.  First it is not very easy to get help/advise on these cars; take it from me I have tried.  I have the standard '40 steering wheel on my car and want to change it to the optional Pontiac deluxe Flexible steering wheel.  I have the deluxe wheel but I am missing the horn ring.  When I find the horn ring I had planned to fix the spontaneous horn blowing and swap steering wheels.  Recently I had found out that when I do swap wheels the are the mounting 'guts' inside the column that must be changed as well.  These mounting 'guts' are almost impossible to find.

     

    Presently I am still on a year long search for the horn ring and mounting hardware for the deluxe wheel.  I have yet to successfully remove the existing steering wheel because a standard steering puller does not work for this application; it's a special GM tool from 1940..  Now you are adding another hurdle to this project and that is that I might have a electrical short in the column. Great news.:unsure:

     

    Well if you find out anything regarding this subject I would much appreciate hearing about it.  If I find anything I will certainly pass it your way as well,

     

    Chris

     

     

     

  8. Hi,

     

    I have a '40 Pontiac Torpedo coupe. It's built off a GM c-body chassis which is shared with other GM divisions. The car is not modified and has the 3-spd manual.  Is the 3 spd transmission shared with other makes from GM at the time?  My thinking is that this trans was a generic GM trans and any division that opted to use it in their models could change the gear ratios to suit the rest of the driveline but the case, the tail, and a lot of internal parts and seals were the same regardless of the GM brand.

     

    Does my thinking make sense?

     

    Any help on this would be appreciated,

    Chris

  9. Hi,

     

    I am looking to buy window regulator/sliders for a 1940 Buick Super coupe.  Specifically looking for the rear 1/4 window regulators.  These regulators actually slide forwards and backwards; they do not go up and down like door mounted window regulators.  Hence I call them sliders!!  I am not sure if they inter-change with 1937 - 39 cars but the pictures I have seen of those years look like the would work.  Please reply with what you have and we will go from there. 

     

    Chris

  10. Hi,

    I have a 1940 Pontiac Torpedo coupe.  I bought a 1940 deluxe steering wheel for it and having it recast by Richard Gumm.  But it doesn't have the horn ring. If anyone can help in locating a horn ring for me I would very much appreciate it.  BTW: a 1940 deluxe wheel is a one year stand alone design hence a '39 or '41 deluxe horn ring won't work. 

  11. Hi all,

     

    I have a 1940 Pontiac Torpedo which is a GM C body; this body was shared with Olds, Buick, & Caddy.  Mine is the 2 door coupe with rear windows that slide rather then go up and down and I would think that these regulators would be used amongst all of these brands   I am actually looking for the drivers side rear regulator/slider. 

     

    Please let me know if have one for sale or know of anyone who has one.

     

    Thanks!!!

  12. I finally was able to make a concerted effort over a week's time and removed that stubborn plug!!  I used PB Blaster at first and it showed some results.  When I tried to loosen the plug it didn't feel smooth. I then tried the acetone/tranny fluid mixture and I have to believe that gave me the result I was hoping for; smooth feeling when I turned the plug.  I slowly worked the plug until it loosened and came out.  I cleaned the spark plug galley, used a thread chaser and installed the new plug and the engine runs like a top!!! 

     

    A lot people were surprised and questioned the tranny fluid acetone mixture; the tranny fluid was fine but the acetone raised quite a few eyebrows.  I must say the acetone was probably the ingredient that ultimately did the trick. 

     

    Thanks to all that contributed to my thread.

  13. For Sale:

    •  
    • 1969 2 door fastback
    • 428 cid engine
    • 4bbl Holley carburetor w/ram air
    • 4 SPD manual trans
    • 3.50:1 locking differential
    • Built in San Jose, CA
    • Build Date:  5/1969
    • DSO: Los Angeles
    • Selling dealer:  Coberly Motors Ford
    • Black jade w/black vinyl interior

     

    Current owner bought it in the early 70’s from the original owner.  Car has always been in Los Angeles.  Been restored a number of years ago to an A minus B plus condition using original Ford parts.  Engine was rebuilt approximately 2000 miles ago and didn’t need cylinder boring, however all internals of the engine were cleaned up, the block was hot tanked and pistons, rods, valves, valve seats & springs were replaced.  .

     

    All lights and accessories work with the exception of the original Philco radio and tachometer.  Chrome and body panel fit are very nice.  No rip, tears or stains in the interior.  After market American Racing wheels with Goodyear Eagle tires are on the car and the original Ford wheels are included in the sale.  No signs of body damage rot or rust on the car.

     

    I am representing elderly owner who lives locally where the car is garaged, my name is Chris Deacon.  If interested I can be reached at 818 404-9417

  14. I have for sale a 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet R-code:

     

     

    • 1969 2 door fastback
    • 428 cid engine
    • 4bbl Holley Carb w/ram air
    • 4spd manual trans
    • 3.50:1 locking diffential
    • Built in San Jose, CA
    • Build date 5/1969
    • DSO:  Los Angeles
    • Selling Dealer:  Coberly Motors Ford
    • Paint:  Black Jade w/black vinyl interior

     

    Current owner bought it in the early 70’s from the original owner.  Car has always been in Los Angeles.  Been restored a number of years ago to an A minus B plus condition using original Ford parts.  Engine was rebuilt approximately 2000 miles ago and didn’t need cylinder boring, however all internals of the engine were cleaned up, the block was hot tanked and pistons, rods, valves, valve seats & springs were replaced.

     

    All lights and accessories work with the exception of the original Philco radio and tachometer.  Chrome and body panel fit are very nice.  No rips, tears or stains in the interior.  After market American Racing wheels with Goodyear Eagle tires are on the car and the original Ford wheels are included in the sale.  No signs of body damage rot or rust on the car.

     

    I am representing an elderly owner who lives locally where the car is garaged.  My name is Chris Deacon.  If interested I can be reached at 818 404-9417

     

     

     

     

  15. Hi,

    I just checked the cup for grease. Golly, though there was something that resembled grease it was definitely old and the cup probably had not been turned for a long time. I cleaned it out and refilled it. I turned it in so about 1/2 the threads were showing and then started the engine I slowly turned the cap in until it covered all threads.

    Thanks much for the information....

  16. Okay, so I've beaten my head against the wall many times -

    A common store bought steering wheel puller will not work with a '40 Pontiac; this has been an issue since I bought the car. If you all could shed a little light on this I would greatly appreciate it.

  17. Thanks for the info.

    I have a shop manual and it does include troubleshooting the fuel gauge and the wiring diagram. But the wiring diagram is very generic and I was just hoping that the loose wire would be for the gauge. I do refer to the manual a lot but it just isn't complete and with my luck up until now I have troubles with the incomplete parts of the manual.

    However the gauge lights that recently lit up when the headlights were on don't light up anymore. So I quite confident that the wire is from the main light switch. But access is still an issue; any help on that is still appreciated.

  18. First I will lament that there's hardly any info readily available for old Pontiacs on the web; unless you're a POCI member which I am not. However I will join now.

    Enough of that...

    Today I noticed a wire hanging down from the left hand side of the dashboard near the headlight switch. It does carry a .5 volts regardless if the headlights are on or off. I have two ideas about where it would go. The first is it goes to the fuel gauge. The reason for that is the gauge always reads full and if I am correct in my thinking the gauge will read differently depending on the sender voltage output. The second is the gauge lights. But I would think those lights would work off of 6 volts.

    Next issue is access to the gauges. I cannot get under that dash to see much unless I contort myself in the front foot well and I am not a young 20 something year old. Is there any way of popping out the gauges and/or the dash mounted switches??

    Any help is appreciated,

    Chris

  19. I am perplexed:

    What does this knob do?post-107588-143143022724_thumb.jpg

    On a '40 Torpedo 8 cylinder the are 2 distributor adjustment bolts. One for the gaselectic setting mounted on the block. Then lower down beneath the points/condenser housing there is a clamp screw. Once you loosen the bolt and set the gaselectic dial to neutral or 0 and tighten it, then you can loosen the clamp screw and adjust the timing. But that brass knob is loose and the I tried to turn the distributor and it was tight and didn't turn.

    Is that knob there so that when you loosen the clamp screw you can tighten that knob to put drag on the distributor housing so you don't lose your adjustment when you re-tightening the clamp screw?

    The knob is too low on the distributor for any type of dwell adjustment. Help ....

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