gregleck
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Posts posted by gregleck
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Connection (ground?) to the horn relay
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Plug on end of wire in engine compartment
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another view
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Finally got around to removing an unknown device, which I am sure is aftermarket, from under the dash of my 62 Olds Dynamic 88.
Has a number of wires, several which are grounds, and a long wire running through the firewall to the engine compartment, where the end is capped with an odd looking plug.
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In Pennsylvania, not that far from Hershey is the Boyertown Auto Museum
Lots of little known vehicles, many which were manufactured in Pennsylvania
Also a 1938 diner and a 1921 gas station
There are even vintage candy machines, where, for a nickel, you can buy a piece of candy.
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FLAPS - Friendly Local Auto Part Store
"go to FLAPS and buy a starter switch with key and a set of gator jumpers to DIY. Just leave hanging under dash."
This is what my 65 year old immigrant cab driver and former mechanic told me to do. However, after speaking to half a dozen countermen at six different auto supply stores (both independent and national chains) they all told me there is no such part in stock today. Used to be but not now.
"Second, the lock code is stamped on the door lock cylinders. If you can disassemble the door and remove the lock cylinder, there will be a four character code stamped on the outside of the cylinder."
I told all the locksmiths that the door cylinder key was the same as the ignition key. But not one told me the key code was on the cylinder. In a similar manner, every one thought the ignition was in the steering column, which complicates things tremendously, and I had to explain that the ignition unit was in the dashboard and could be accessed easily. But they said without a key to copy, or without a key code, they could not make a key from the cylinder. Or, apparently, they could but did not want to. One, Boston Car Keys, admitted it could be done but would take five hours and they were not going to do it at 7PM on a Friday night, despite being a 24 hour service.
"you are going to need to remove the ignition lock to make a key. The locksmith should be able to do that without damaging the lock. He or she can then cut you a key."
The one locksmith who did show up tried to remove the cylinder. WITH the key in place it is easy, but without the lock you have to pick it so you can turn the cylinder CCW while another instrument is in that hole. After 15 minutes he gave up and offered to drill it out. Thankfully I declined the offer! Even if still successful, we still had the problem of no key blank.
"That is correct, you can get it to run with 12v to the coil, but not for long, a GM 12v coil is designed to run through at ballast resistor at 9v. Jumping at the key switch rather than the coil will do this. This is so it can get a full spark when cranking with a weak battery."
Padgett, can you expand and clarify this? When you say "not for long" do you mean the 12 volt battery charge will eventually burn the coil out? And will that happen if you jump at the ignition key switch, or at the coil?
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There is, of course, no steering or transmission lock on this car, so I also considered jump (push starting the car), even though this is an automatic transmission. I was told it is possible with older automatics, but more difficult than standard transmissions. However, I think the campus police would have put a stop to any attempt like that pretty quickly.
I did notice that one of the six metal contact prongs had broken off the ignition unit (the one that says "power") and the broken part was stuck in the socket attached to the wires. I don't know if this happened when I took the ignition unit off, or whether it broke 50 years ago. In any event, I hope that there would be contact, and there was. I drove 350 miles home, stopping a number of times, and the car started right up every time.
I've gotten two extra sets of key blanks on order, as well as a new ignition switch. Now I just need a small magnetic box to keep the spare set under the hood.
I wouldn't wish this experience on anyone, However, hopefully this discussion thread will serve as a good starting point for anyone who has this problem in the future.
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<<Fifth, you are out of luck with the aftermarket locking gas cap. Do people even use these anymore? >>
Actually, I learned you can drill a small hole off center, and insert a small bore Phillips screwdriver, angled toward the center, on some types of locking gas caps. This will hold the inner part to the outer so the outer will not rotate without turning the inner part.
Since both turn together, you just unscrew it.
As for putting a non-proper key in and pushing it in and out to get the lock open, it is pushing the tumblers around - this is called raking. The key profile must be similar but the teeth don't have to be.
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OK - here is what happened.
Unscrewed the retainer ring, pushed the ignition unit out, unplugged unit from wires.
Now, all I had to do was remove the lock cylinder and then I could use a screwdriver turn the ignition.
(Remember, all tools are locked in the trunk, but I could buy a screwdriver.)
However, at this point I decided to check the last place on campus I was unable to check last night - the library - one of my last stops before returning to the car at 6PM and finding the keys gone.
It was 9AM and they were closed (this being graduation day) but I saw someone in the building and pounded on the door.
And there, on the floor in front of the circulation desk, were the keys.
Plugged everything back in, inserted the key, turned the ignition and she turned right over. The very next thing I tried to do was get the keys copied. However, the old time hardware store (there before I was a student 40 years ago) did not have the blanks so I will pick some up online.
So I go to actually enjoy some reunion events today. Now headed to the class dinner, then it is a long drive home tomorrow.
Many, many thanks to all - some good information and good advice, and hopefully I will never need any of it again!
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Car is unlocked. I almost spent the night sleeping in it.
Problem is locksmiths tell me the car is too old and they cannot make keys. I have spoken to half a dozen. No one wants to be bothered.
The taxi drive (old timer mechanic) told me to reach under dash and pull the wires out, then rewire a replacement lock cylinder.
However, I don't want to go anything destructive if it is not going to work.
Will start calling dealers in an hour once they open.
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I drove my 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 three hundred miles to my college reunion at Tufts University in Medford, Mass, just outside of Boston.
While walking around campus, I lost the keys. After three hours of retracing my steps, contacting campus police and checking all the places I visited, I still did not find them.
Keys are ignition, trunk, and locking gas cap - three keys.
Called AAA but every locksmith they contacted told me they cannot do the job
Taxi driver told me I should just be able to pull the wires off from the back of the dashboard, and wire a new switch in. Then crowbar off the locking gas cap. (There is only a quarter tank of gas in the tank - not enough to get home.) Luggage can go in the back seat.
Will this work? I am now ten miles away from car so cannot fool with it until Saturday morning.
Other option is to call GM dealers in the area and see if they have the ability to pull the cylinder and make a new key, or replace the cylinder. Car would have to be towed there.
Anyone have any other ideas?
At this rate I will be missing most of the reunion.
The ironic part is the car ran perfectly and had no trouble keeping up with 70 mph traffic.
Greg
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I drove my 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 three hundred miles to my college reunion at Tufts University in Medford, Mass, just outside of Boston.
While walking around campus, I lost the keys. After three hours of retracing my steps, contacting campus police and checking all the places I visited, I still did not find them.
Keys are ignition, trunk, and locking gas cap - three keys.
Called AAA but every locksmith they contacted told me they cannot do the job
Taxi driver told me I should just be able to pull the wires off from the back of the dashboard, and wire a new switch in. Then crowbar off the locking gas cap. (There is only a quarter tank of gas in the tank - not enough to get home.)
Will this work? I am now ten miles away from car so cannot fool with it until Saturday morning.
Other option is to call GM dealers in the area and see if they have the ability to pull the cylinder and make a new key, or replace the cylinder. Car would have to be towed there.
Anyone have any other ideas?
At this rate I will be missing most of the reunion.
The ironic part is the car ran perfectly and had no trouble keeping up with 70 mph traffic.
Greg
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from the above website:
"The Rocket engine unit number on full-size models is stamped on a pad on the left (driver's side) cylinder head, directly beneath the rocker arm cover lip, in between the 3rd and 5th spark plugs"
Thanks!
Greg
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A few months ago, I found the same year, make, model, and color car I drove way back when in college - a 1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 I had fond memories of that car (and all of it's associated events)
so when I found this car going up for auction, well, I just had to have it. How often do second chances come along in life?
The auctioneer chanted "100% original!" during the sale, and "100% original" was written on the windshield during the auction. I was not present but watched online.
Turns out, the transmission failed catastrophically after only a few hundred miles. That was when I was told the transmission was not original, but from a 1963 Olds.
I also found two different numbers on the engine, which because they do not match, I am presuming at least part of the engine, or the entire engine, is not original.
I realize it may not have been obvious to non-Oldsmobile experts that the transmission was not original, but they should have picked up on the mismatched engine numbers, and the fact that an aftermarket, magnetic pickup was used to work the speedometer (because the 1963 transmission speedometer port works from the front wheel, and is not compatible with a 1962 model.
Yes, I know - caveat emptor. But they shouldn't be making a claim which will drive up bidding if it is not true. Do I have any recourse?
Opinions? I am sure a lot of people will be replying, been there, done that.
Thanks,
Greg
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I'm trying to find the engine number on my 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 Celebrity 4 door sedan. Has a 2 bbl carb, but I want to find out which one of the three engine configurations it was for 1962.
I found 585657 R on the top of the engine, but was told that doesn't appear to fit the engine numbers for this series and sounds more like a part number or casting number.
On the right side of the block I found 579278R
Are either of these the engine number? They are not matching. And I also discovered the transmission is actually from a 1963, not 1962 model.
The auctioneer said it was "100% original." Caveat Emptor.
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Great source! Thanks a lot!
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I'm driving my 1962 Dynamic 88 sedan up to Saratoga Springs for the Hemmings Cruise-In this Saturday. I'm putting together a poster with information about the car along with period advertisements.
Can anyone tell me what the list price for the base model of the Dynamic 88 Celebrity sedan was in 1962?
Short notice, I know, but until today I did not think I would make it due to a transmission problem.
thanks,
Greg
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OK, here is the story.
This is not the original transmission. At some point, someone pulled the original 1962 Slim Jim and replaced it with a 1963 model.
The 1962 speedometer attached to the transmission. But the 1963 speedometer attaches to a front wheel. There is no such attachment on the 1962 front wheel.
So whoever did the swap put in the magnet electronic conversion system which worked until the car hit a bump and the magnets flew off.
Leak (gasket, I think - did not get details yet) has been repaired and transmission disassembled and inspected.
Transmission mechanic has told me he has a 1962 transmission output shaft which will work with the speedometer cable, but cannot find a 1962 housing.
We need the speedometer gear, tail housing, and speedometer housing
Any ideas on sources to begin looking for these parts? Mechanic has tried the usual national suppliers without luck.
In the meantime, everything being put back together. I am planning a 225 mile drive up to Saratoga Springs in a few days for the Hemmings Cruise In and Concours.
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You can also add low tech air conditioners, but they work only when you are moving. They were a popular after market item before WW II.
Basically a tube filled with ice which hung outside the window, vented through the open window.
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Well, bigger problems now than the speedometer/odometer.
Drove about 100 miles today and the transmission started acting up - taking a long time to shift, and finally not shifting at all.
Pulled into a parking lot to see transmission fluid pouring out of the tranny - near the front, it appears.
Flatbed took me back to the transmission shop.
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Well, today I got a taste of what it's like to break down.
Drove my 62 Olds to Macungie, PA to take a look at the car show there. On the way back, transmission was acting up and I pulled into a parking lot. Transmission fluid was just pouring out of the tranny.
Called Hagerty's breakdown number and the woman could not have been nicer (in stark contrast to the AAA operator I spoke to last year when my 37 Buick acted up)
Flatbed arrived in about 30 minutes to take me and the car to a transmission shop, then gave me a lift home.
I never read the fine print, but apparently Hagerty's policy (mine, at least) is only good for 15 miles. Fortunately I was almost home.
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I went today (Sunday) to take a look - lots of vehicles, including an incredible 1956 Imperial with factory air and record player.
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Ouch! What a run of bad luck. Especially that part about AAA calling the car commercial. I'm surprised they even knew what a Series 90 is.
I took my '37 Buick Sports Coupe out to the Jersey Shore (Wildwood) for the Race of Gentlemen last year. Had two flats on the way, (both driver's side front) the second in the motel parking lot. Tires (bias ply) were 30 years old and both blew out the sidewalls. Since the car had two side mounted spares I was OK but facing a 250 mile drive home without a spare. Guy at the tire shop I checked (no luck - no 16 inch tires) told me to trailer it home but I decided to risk it. Tires held out but the ignition switch failed in the parking lot as we were leaving to go home. Hotwired it and it worked until ten miles from home, in the dark, on a steep hill. Tried rolling backwards and popping the clutch and almost hit a telephone pole. Finally got it working and made it home, where I replaced the ignition switch.
So I bought six new, radial, bias ply profile tires, from.... you guessed it.
Did you install your tires with or without tubes?
Car is currently up on blocks (long story) for the duration but now I wonder how long those tires are going to hold out.
As for your list, for future use, I put together a similar kit, based on an article in a 1970s era Buick Torque Tube. I would add spare heater hose and spare radiator hoses. I also carry spare rebuilt generator, voltage regulator, water pump, fan belt hoses, and carb rebuild kit. I have an electric fuel pump which I do not use but is installed and can be used if needed. And because it is 6 volt, a spare Optima 6 volt battery.
Here's my '37 with its blackwall spare on the beach in Wildwood, NJ.
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You are right, Dave - there was a nut attached to the top of the filter.
My Dad had a '62 Olds 98 in 1965 and he used to change his own oil. One of those filters never got used and sat in the garage for decades.
In 1985 I was in college and home on break and driving a '62 Dynamic 88. Decided to change the oil and came across that unused filter. Since it fit and it was going to save me about $2.50 I took it out of the original box and used it. Now I am sorry I didn't keep it just for display.
Somebody did keep their store display, though
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I am trying to locate the time code for my car - 1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 - either on a data tag or firewall plate.
However, all I can find is what appears to be the VIN number, on the inside door pillar of the driver's door.
Where were these usually installed for this year and model Oldsmobile?
Greg
What is this aftermarket device under my dash?
in Technical
Posted
interior of box
This car had no factory radio, by the way.
