kreed
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Posts posted by kreed
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Good advice -thanks Ed. Ken
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Thanks very much Ed and Jason- will followup on your ideas. Really appreciate your help and will keep you updated . Kendall
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Hi Jason - looking for a # 3 car that needs to be brought back to life. Ideally want a '71 (GS would be a +) with minimal rust and solid drive train , bucket seats and center console with power options. My plan would be a frame off -budget allowing . My '64 Corvette coupe is silver with red interior and that is the plan on the '71 - just so I can back them up next to one another and look at their rear ends! Suspect prices will vary significantly between 5-15 K depending on condition. Can't go crazy on the base car as I know my customization will cost big dollars . I have no intention of buying a top quality # 2 car and taking it apart as that would be against everything I love about the early generation Rivieras. Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated. Ken
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Thanks very much Imperial62 and Ed. Didn't know about the searchtempest site. Will definitely check it out. Imperial62, are you in Des Moines? Give me a call sometime to talk. My phone is listed in the members roster. Let me know if you run across a nice 71 . Thanks KReed
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I am interested in buying a 1971 or 1972 Riviera to do a very mild resto-mod project. I recently bought a '64 corvette coupe and am fascinated by the involvement of Bill Mitchell in the Corvettes as well as the Rivieras as a result of his seeing the Auburn boat tails. I would appreciate any leads that any members may have . Thank you very much.
Kendall Reed
ROA # 14549
Des Moines, Iowa
'64,'65GS and '67 Rivieras
'64 Corvette
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Thanks to all-know exactly where it is. KR
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I am coming to KC this weekend on my way to Warrensville to a UCM game.What is your location in Raytown. If you could send me your phone I will give you a call. Thanks so much. Kendall Reed
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Ed- Just started the hunt. Live in Des Moines Iowa. Thanks will contact the ones in Riview. KR
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Restoring a 65 GS and need a nice driver's side front fender. Appreciate help. Thanks Kendall Reec
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I hear you. My last car was bought in California . Contacted a Florida transporter by name of Gran Turismo- owner Ken Gold. Could not have been a better experience . Car was in my driveway 8 days after I purchased it. The driver was a true professional. Will absolutely use again and highly recommend based on that one experience.
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Congratulations - just joined a couple of months ago myself. Have a 64 and 67 and starting a restoration on a 65 GS. You will find this club to be a great resource. Tell us about your 64.
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Hi Ed - thanks for the invite but that is exactly the day I am scheduled to go pick up my barn find 65 GS in MN that was advertised in the Riview last month. If things change, we would love to get together with everyone as I start my journey into Rivieras. If you are ever in the Des Moines area , please look me up as I would like to meet you and show you my 64 and 67. Kendall Reed
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I would love to join in if you would let an Iowa guy be a part of this. Go Royals! KR
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Thank you very much - was hoping that was the case.
Yes a venting cap will suffice with no ill effects.Robert
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I just purchased a Star Wars air cleaner for my 67 Riviera 430-4 (non- GS but I like the look) . The left valve cover has a breather with black rubber tube leading to the snorkel of the original air cleaner. The Star Wars does not have an opening on it for this tube to fit into. My question is : can I leave this piece off and simply cap the 1 1/4 inch hole with a breather that does not connect to the new air cleaner? Will doing this make the engine run hotter or cause damage ? If I do cap the hole, should it be with a simple grommet or breather ( chrome , rubber ,etc). Appreciate your help and apologize for a simple question.
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Kendall,
I found the ones that I have. A couple of '64's but neither of them have the rear defroster labeled, and a '65. The '65 is different. The "label" for the '65 models have a small trim piece that is screwed on with the switch mounting screws. That puts the "label" under the panel instead of on the front of the panel. I have nothing more than what you already have, sorry.
Ed
Thanks Ed - really appreciate you trying.will continue to search . After cleaning the power unit on my cruise control, I can get it to engage but it won't hold the set speed when I let off the switch- just drifts past the setting. Not sure if it is a vacuum problem or a relay switch. Have tried adjusting the little bead chain to no avail. All my local mechanics here get wide eyed and have dazed look when I even mention my problem. If it doesn't have a computer chip, they can't fix things anymore! Thanks for all your help.
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That is " cruise control" rather than cries control although I did a little of that as well today. Ken
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Lrg (still no name?)
This is going to be a big one. I'm not trying to be a smart ass here, but I'd get a '63 shop manual and go through it. The shop manual lists 16 different problems; each having as few as 2 or as many as 7 different things to check out to find the problem. That section of the shop manual is 13 pages long. It's an "Electro Cruise" unit and runs off + and - electrical readings that come from two feelers on the back of the speedometer head when you set the needle to the speed you want. There's also a list of the proper tools that you'll need to do the job. It could be as simple as brake pedal pressure on the brake release switch or it might be as complicated as a defective transistor amplifier.
Ed
Hi Ed - I have discovered the unknown switch on my 64 that Dick Sweeney and yourself posted. It is the cries control. Wasn't working at all but I spent the better part of the day checking out as much of the system as I could referring to the chassis service manual. It was very helpful and after cleaning the power unit took it out for a road trip and amazingly it worked - well kind of. It will accelerate when I engage the switch and run the speed past speed setting pointer but won't hold the set speed. Looking at the manual they say it's either a defective relay and defective engage switch. Can you buy those ? I have no idea how to test them for accurate function . Also they say it could be a 2 amp fuse incorporated into the junction block which apparently holds the " relay assembly and transistor amplifier" . I have the dash off and think I have found the multipronged relay switch but be darn if I can find the fuse they are talking about. I already replaced all the fuses in the main fuse block under the dash. Any suggestions or sources for a replacement engagement switch or relay would be much appreciated. Thanks Kendall
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If the horn bar on my wood wheel wasn't still in good shape, I'd be after one of these in a heartbeat. Anyone have any idea as to how the guy is doing with the repro horn buttons?
The secret to saving your OE horn bar is to press up on the horn bar from beneath the wheel using your index or middle finger. Keep your thumbs off of them. Whe you press up, you pressing the bar into the hub, rather than prying it away when you press down with your thumb.
Also when pressing up it's uncomfortable and you're not as inclined to as much pressure on it as you do when pressing down with your thumb. Remember, pressing harder on the bar does NOT make the horn honk louder.
Ed
Hi Ed - looking for a walnut steering wheel complete for my 64 . Any tips ? I found a steering wheel without the bar or cap on EBay for $ 699! Don't want to buy it if I can't complete the build however . On another note , took the dash pad out today and the " mystery" knob is intact and wired and labeled " cruise " in black marker. Appears to be rather old markings perhaps when this car was supposedly restored in 2004 or so. Not sure it is working but will continue to explore. Thanks for all your help. Kendall
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There's a very small allen head screw in the back of each knob. You should be able to take our the four corner screws and drop the panel enough to see what the switches control. It's also pretty easy to remove then entire dash pad. Four screws along the bottom of the front edge. Pull it forward but be aware that the speaker is wired to the radio so you can't take it all the way off without undoing the speaker wires. I'll have to look to be sure, but I might have a panel that has the rear defroster, courtesy light, and antenna labels on it. I'll let you know what I find the next time I get into the storage.
Ed
Thanks very much Ed- I will try that and let you know what I find. Also would be very interested in your panel with the labels. Appreciate your expert advice. This is really fun tracking down all these issues! Also , I am looking for a 65 and 66 GS ( like a lot of folks) if you happen to know someone who is interested in selling one.
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Dick,
I think it's from a '64 that didn't have the power antenna or the rear defroster. All panels from '64 came with three slots. The only non-option switch was the courtesy light, for which this one is labeled. If another option was added, then a differently labeled face panel was used. IMHO this was a non-option control panel that someone used the two other existing slots, added an additional slot, and filled them with OE switches to control ?????? whatever.
Ed
Thanks Ed and Dick. I am the owner of this car. Left to right the switches are " the unknown " , the rear defogger, the courtesy lamp and the power antenna. The switch is definitely connected to something - it slides in and out form from neutral position but darned if I can tell what it does. Dick had a good suggestion of just dropping the panel down and looking. I looked at the firewall from the engine side and couldn't tell anything. Are the chrome buttons attached by a hex nut from the back? Seems like that is what I am feeling. Thanks for all your help. Kendall
Are 1971-72 Riviera parts interchanageable
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I am planning on doing a very mild resto-mod on a 71 Riviera which needs a little work on some quarter panels because of rust and trying to find out if any of the body parts are interchangeable with a '72 Riviera . Thanks for any help or suggestions.
KReed ROA #14549