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checkmate

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Posts posted by checkmate

  1. 21 hours ago, Matthew Cody said:

    If the pan was sealed with RTV sealant, make sure you get all the old RTV sealant off of the bolts and inside the bolt holes. They will cause the bolt hole threads to strip in the transmission if you don't. 

    Thanks Matthew, good to know!

  2. On 10/7/2019 at 12:36 PM, Hemi Dude said:

    Unable to bleed brakes”  OK! To begin with, prepare to bleed the rear brake calipers first. That means, remove both rear wheels in order to access the bleeder fittings. Be sure you can loosen them both. Have a hose connected to the right side bleeder fitting and a catch pan on the floor beneath it.

    You should remove ALL OLD brake fluid from the reservoir with some sort of device such as a turkey baster. Fill the reservoir to the top with NEW, CLEAN DOT3 brake fluid. Now you are ready to proceed.

    Have an assistant sit in the car while you do the bleeding.

    Have helper turn the ignition to the ON/RUN position and hold light pressure on the brake pedal. Helper is to hold foot on brake pedal lightly, NOT push it to the floor. The pump will come on and push the fluid in a steady stream as you open the bleeder and run until YOU shut it off by closing the bleeder.

    YOU open the bleeder and allow the old brake fluid to drain into the catch pan until you see the clean fluid appear, then shut off the fitting after a moment of clear fluid flowing. Have helper lift foot from brake pedal.
    BE SURE THERE IS SUFFICIENT BRAKE FLUID IN RESERVOIR.

    Move to left rear caliper, bleed in the same way. It should flow clear more quickly compared to the right side.

     

    For the front calipers, bleeding process is done as you would with standard brake system. Do right front first, then the left. 
    This can be done with ignition on or off. I prefer ’off’ myself.

     

    Be sure that reservoir does NOT run dry. 


    In the end, verify that the reservoir fluid level is between the arrows after the brake pedal has been pumped 30 times WITH THE IGNITION OFF.


    This process is for a normally operating system without any brake line blockage. If this doesn’t work for you, let us know what the problem was that you experienced.

    Once again you've come to my rescue.  Thank you very much

  3. 10 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:

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    If you provide some clue as to the problem you are experiencing, we could be if greater assistance.  

    Unable to bleed brakes after replacing brake booster. No lights on dash. Booster was removed as described in blue service manual 

  4. On 6/29/2019 at 11:44 AM, Mac48 said:

    My member # is 4021.  I live in Beach Park, IL, that is on the Illinois/Wisconsin border by Lake Michigan.  If I can get enough information and pictures about a car I will be willing to fly or drive to look at it.  I will not buy sight unseen because as you know there is some much "fantasy" about the condition of our cars.

    I have a 1989 Yellow TC. Recent New A/C compressor, blows ice cold. Mileage unknown, but have a new uninstalled circuit board. Tire are in in good shape. Interior In good shape. New uninstalled car cover.  Needs to have Teves brake system, have an uninstalled Replacement. No body damage.

    asking $4000 , obo.  Will send  more pictures, what do you want to see?     

     

    dongtam69@hotmail.com

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  5. Please let me add to my original post. I want to remove all/any parts pertaining to the Teves braking system. And I mean everything. After the complete removal, I'd like some directions as what to purchase to make a completely new system that can be serviced by my mechanic. 

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