checkmate
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Posts posted by checkmate
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20 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:
Earlier I wrote " I have LED bulbs for tail/stop lamps, but have to get a variable load flasher as these LEDs don’t draw enough current to make the standard flasher operate. "
THAT WAS NOT EXACTLY CORRECT! I discovered that today, when I was going to take some photos of the tail lamp. I had already done the conversion!
I had already installed one LED bulb and left the original 1157 bulb in the other socket. This way the original flasher (I think} will still work. I took a photo of them in normal 'tail lamp on' mode but it turned out to be much too bright with the LED bulb on.
Below is a package with 2 bulbs which cost $12.95 at the time of purchase.
Hopefully this will be of some help and a project for many of you to jump on during our time waiting out the Coronavirus.
You're the best!
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15 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:
OK, here we go. This is not NASCAR iRacing, and not even the next best thing!
I set the recording to stop as it was programmed, so I missed the end of the race due to so many CAUTIONS.
Fortunately they are doing a replay later today and I added time to that one, so I hope to see the winner on that showing. How many of you watched ?
I am doing this in several parts as the photos eat a lot of GBs.
First I'll show the 3rd High Mounted stop lamp.
I found these LEDs in a longer lamp on the internet years ago and made myself the lamp by cutting the board to fit. Now you guys have to figure out how to do this, it was likely 5 or more years since I did this. Just notice the 2 wires coming from the board, RED being (+) and BLACK being (-). Connect them into the factory harness cut from the old bulb board while maintaining proper polarity.
The board is merely epoxied in place. The outcome is MUCH brighter H M Lamp. NO, I did not have to take the lamp off my TC, I made 2 since I had enough LED boards.
Thanks for the update. I really do appreciate you knowledge.
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1 hour ago, Hemi Dude said:
It's Sunday now, will put something together... a little later, as I am able.
Sorry to read that you plan to sell it, so this may encourage others to do something about the dim tail lamps and stop lamps on out TCs.
Thanks Hemi. Anything I can do to make the car more appealing to potential buyers is helpful
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13 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:
Let us know how you progress.
Please let me know the process/parts you used to do the upgrade. I'm doing my very best to make the car I have for sale more appealing to potential buyers.
Jerry
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1 hour ago, Hemi Dude said:
It is obvious that the odometer is not working, all 000.0
For such ?low? miles, the engine should not look so shabby.
I was told an attempt was made to clean the cover so it could be repainted. I got the car at an estate sale before new paint was completed
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16 minutes ago, Kevinflys said:
Why not explain? You may indeed have a great car...I was interested but lost interest because I can't understand why you would advertise that a car is dirty from the cover blowing off rather than washing it. I only live 2 hours away but I'm not going to drive two hours to look at a car that's supposedly in great shape but the owner isn't willing to wash. Again...that doesn't make sense. Why? Why? Why?
You are welcome to come see the car for yourself. It has been washed and has on a new car cover
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1 hour ago, mensanguy said:
Seeing "needs brakes serviced" tells me all I need to know...…………….
Please share what you know.
Thanks
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19 hours ago, Kevinflys said:
I have seen that are listed multiple times claiming it to dirty because a car cover blew off. Why don't they watch the dang car? Seems fishy to me.
Then please ignore the post if you're not interested. BTW that's an old description that was made for me. The car has been washed and has a new cover on it. I'll continue to post the car for sale despite you're
suspicions
Thanks. https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jacksonville-1989-tc-maserati/7078839913.html
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1 hour ago, Hemi Dude said:
It is obvious that the odometer is not working, all 000.0
For such ?low? miles, the engine should not look so shabby.
I agree,however esthetics aside the engine starts up quickly and runs smoothly. No visible leaks of any kind. Oil pressure is well within range. Both the oil and oil filter have been recently changed. Oil is Quaker State 10W30 and the oil filter is a WIX. I also have a new distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs (NKG) and plug wires to go with the car. Included is a new car cover, a tested and working Teves ABS brake Booster. If I was in better health I would keep the car.
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Thanks for the info. New projects ahead
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https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jacksonville-1989-tc-maserati/7078839913.html
Thanks to everyone for letting me know I needed to edit my For Sale post
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Has anyone changed out the tail light bulbs with LED bulbs?
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Thank you!
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Where is the transmission dipstick located to check fluid level?
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Thanks for your reply. I'll do that.
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Looking for a checklist for the Teves Brake System. I want to compile a complete list to post for others use
Please contribute .
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On 2/13/2020 at 3:32 PM, Turbo Kane said:
I have 10 available for purchase. They no longer have the gas pump marking on them they are plain black levers. Message me if you’d like to purchase one.
You failed to post the price!
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On 1/20/2020 at 12:50 PM, 63viking said:
I am on the Reatta site. Please explain.
I've been told the ignition needs in the ON position to activate teves system. The brakes can be bled
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5 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:
If you want to talk about it, read your mail, top right of the screen.
Thanks Hemi. put your info in my address book.
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5 hours ago, 63viking said:
I don't understand why you cannot bleed the brakes. What is stopping you?
Did not realize ignition needed to be in the ON position.
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3 hours ago, Reaper1 said:
To bleed the rear brakes you need to have the car "on" (NOT started), crack the bleeder, then press the brake pedal until the pump on the Teves comes on. It will pump the fluid through the system until you release the pedal. Then tighten the bleeder. Do the other side. Done. On the TC, the rear brakes are on a single line T'd to both sides, so it doesn't really matter which side you start on, unlike split hydraulic systems where you should start with the right rear as it is farthest away from the MC.
Thank you so much. I'll give this info a try. I've just about pulled my hair out. BTW there is nothing in any of my research that includes this info.
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I'm so lost and confused. I replaced my teves brake system with one that was reported to be in good working order. I followed every piece of information I have gathered. When starting the car, there are no lights on showing a brake problem. So here is my situation. I can not bleed the rear brakes. The brake fluid resouvior is full. So what have I missed?
Thanks
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10 hours ago, TCJHB said:
checkmate..... The link you provided to Craigs List is your link to manage your listing. You are the only one who can access that link. Impossible for anyone here to view your listing...... Just FYI..... Jim
Thanks Jim. I'll correct it.
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I need to repair/replace the wiper linkage bushings on my 89 TC
Thanks for your help
LED conversion
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
Posted
https://expeditionportal.com/how-to-convert-to-led-turn-signals-and-brake-lights/
Just got this info.
Hope this will help someone.