Rogillio
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Posts posted by Rogillio
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I still want one of those 1916 DB touring cars that can do a break-torture tire burn without any front brakes!
The goal of most advertisement is name recognition. Boeing doesn't advertise on TV to get you to buy a 787...they are just promoting the Boeing brand.
2 years ago, I had no idea Mr Dodge had a brother. I had a crash course when I bought my car. But most people never heard of the Dodge Brothers until this ad campaign started.
What we need to do get Dodge to hold a Dodge/DB rally or parade....I can show up with my 35 hp coupe an race a 707 hp 2015 Dodge Challenger.
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Hey... I have been following this and like some clarification.
I have taken off the oil pan to inspect things and I see marks. One is a C, the other is a fraction.
My questions are;
1-Which mark is to be visable thru the hole in the housing?
2-which ever mark is used, are the points to be open or closed?
I'm used to a timing light on my cars.....
I can see a C thru the hole in the bell housing. What is the fraction? If it is 1/4 it might mean #1 and #4 are at TDC? I think there is supposed to be a mark after the C in 12* past TDC which is when the points are supposed to open. I'm not sure of this though.....I've read books multiple times and some things just don't make sense. There are 3 different procedures to set the timing based on the serial numbers and if you have a viewing hole. Mine seems to fit the A8xxxxx procedure but my car is A7xxxxx.
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I just saw another new Dodge Brothers commercial. Since I own 2 mostly original Dodge Brothers cars, I love this ad campaign! A years ago the average person had never even heard of the Dodge Brothers....certainly a lot more people now have heard of them now.
So the question is, does the DB ad campaign increase the value/collectibility of DB cars?
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Awesome! The face is the right color too!
Hey, your steering wheel is on the wrong side! :-)
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The grease cup must be there to lubricate something, such as a bronze bush or bearing, whatever the shaft runs inside.
Is the grease cup fitted at the large hole at the down arrow? What is at the wee hole at the up arrow? There will be a bush at both these locations that will need lubricating. You can see the brass or bronze flange to the right of the up arrow - it is a flanged bush. I think you might have pushed the bush at the down arrow into the pump body at one stage (to the right)?
If you drove the shaft out, breaking off the pin(s), you could have scored the bushes with a deep groove, opening up a way for grease to escape and not lubricate anything and water to escape in the opposite direction into the grease cup.
Packing the gland ("jam nut") won't help water at the grease fitting. It is a separate independent route of escape for the water along the shaft, not through the bush as is needed to come out of the lubrication fitting.
What end float do you have in the shaft? There should be about 0.002 to 0.003" clearance under the impeller blades on the pump body and end float of about the same, but not so that the impeller blades hit the pump body. Shaft sideways movement inside the bush should be about 0.002", just enought to allow some lubrication in. Is there a thrust washer between the impeller and the pump body? (not just any old washer, a properly machined, close fitting to shaft, parallel both sides, washer to govern end float as well as stop the impeller, which is soft, from wearing out itself and the end of the pump body. The faces of the impeller and the pump body should be similarly flat.)
OK, beginning to think I should have had this rebuilt instead of doing it myself!
The grease cup is at the left arrow. There is nothing at the other hole. I did not replace the brass inserts.....so maybe that is where the leakage is from. But I did not see any scoring....but as worn as everthing else is, I can see they would be worn too.
I did not measure any clearances before reassembly.
This is great information I will use when I rebuild my other water pump. Just one question for you....where the heck were you when I started this thread and needed to know this stuff!? :-)
Thanks man. I really appreciate any and all help! I would never have gotten as far as I have without you experts' help!
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About the roll pin... I was told to NOT use a roll pin on the impeller because there is not much metal in the pin, so it won't take long to corrode away from the inside. It is in a bronze impeller and a steel shaft and is likely the highest on the galvanic series of all those metals. Better to use a solid pin. The roll pin should be OK out of the water. Lesson here: keep up the anti-corrosion additive in your coolant!
The grease cup: I had a similar problem - water coming from the oil hole. The problem was that it had a brass or bronze bush with a hole in it into the oil reservoir, so water just came straight out. It should have a sintered bronze bush with no hole. I am not sure about your bush, but there should be no direct connection between the water and the grease cup except through the bush. Mine actually had a wee O-ring retro-fitted in the end of the bush to keep the water out, but it was munted and the shaft corroded, so a new O-ring would not seal. I fitted a new Oilite bush and made a new shaft. The bushes are getting hard to get; lots of sizes are listed but they don't stock them all for one-off buyers. I had to bore out and turn down a suitable bush.
Great info! I had not thought about corrosion since the inside of the pin is hollow. On the other hand....the impeller really has very little place to go alone the scissors of the shaft. It is keyed to keep it from rotating and pinned to keep it axial position. Oh well, hopefully it will last a few years.
I don't know where you are talking about for the bush? Bushing? I can't picture in my mind how/where the grease fitting contacts the water. I'm thinking about putting some more packing under the jam nut and running it up tight.
I put the grease cup so tight I rounded off the 1/2 shaft that the hex wrench fits. So I ordered another one.
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Just loosen the screw in center of the cam in the distributor and put it where you want it.. Not necessary to mesh the dist. to any certain place.
I nearly ruined that cam nut trying to get it off. I tried both left and right. I finally concluded it is not a nut by is machined onto the upper part of the shaft. Maybe the cam nut was a later design improvement?
The upper shaft and centrifugal spring assembly is pinned to the lower shaft.
It was pretty easy setting the rotor position to #1 once I put the flywheel timing mark visible in the hole. My problem tonight was the manual timing advance/retard bracket broke into 4 pieces as I tried to tighten. I called Meyers...the have one for $40. Cha-Ching!
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Oh no!
Decided to finish setting the timing.....my 2 part epoxy repair on the timing advance ring failed. Took it off, sanded clean and remade the fix....this time with JB weld.
Put in radiator fluid and it leaks everywhere! I had the radiator cleaned and holes fixed at radiator shop but it leak bad all at round the bottom inlet neck. So that's a minor PITB rework...take back to shop and tell them I didn't get my $100's worth.
But the worst part is, it leaked out of the grease cup! WTH? How does that happen. No around the threads but thru the grease cup. I tightened it as much as possible....tightened the jam nut on the pump as much as possible....still drips out the grease cup.
Oh well....it's a project.
Edited for clarification
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I've got the grease cup leak to slow to a slow drip....drip every 2 seconds os so. Would Teflon tape on the treads help?
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Oh no!
Decided to finish setting the timing.....my 2 part epoxy repair on the timing advance ring failed. Took it off, sanded clean and remade the fix....this time with JB weld.
Put in radiator fluid and it leaks everywhere! I had the radiator cleaned and holes fixed at radiator shop but it leak bad all at round the bottom inlet neck. So that's a minor PITB rework...take back to shop and tell them I didn't get my $100's worth.
But the worst part is, it leaked out of the grease fitting! WTH? How does that happen. No around the fitting but thru the grease cup. I tightened it as much as possible....tightened the jam nut on the pump as much as possible....still drips out the grease cup.
Oh well....it's a project.
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There was a line was below the "C" as it came around. IOW the C was followed by a line ~ 1/2" later. So my thinking is the line is TDC and the "C" is timing mark for 8 degrees before TDC and when the points need to start opening?
I'm trying to put the distributor back on. Best I can tell, I just need to be in the right neighborhood and then the manual spark advance can be adjusted to fine tune it to the sweet spot for easy starting and for cruising as the engine is warm.
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On one of my 26 DB Coupes the timing mark for TDC is "I" (Roman numeral one?) and the other car the mark is "C". Unless I'm missing it. It this actually for TDC or "8 degrees before TDC"?
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Wire harness for switch
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Been tring to figure out how to wire the switch....
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OK wise guys, enlighten us guys with post '20's cars, what are they?
It's a door stop. The door hinges are simple hinges so the door will open almost 180. These connect to the door and the cab to stop the door. I cut my straps to stop the doors at about 90 degrees open.
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No grenades from me. That's the reason I posted it.....to get the opinions of you fine professional vintage DB car guys!
I love wood and love wood grain.....and and all of it. It will be months before she is road ready.....I'd like to finish the car including paint and see how it look. You may be right....the contrast from the forrest green and black might be too much.
I the thing is, it is easy to add the rubber and trim but would be a pain to reverse. My wife suggested maybe put strips of rubber so you don't slip getting in or out of the car. I told her that is what the kick plate is for. This is also the woman who recently told me, "I noticed the Doobie Brothers logo on the radiator of your blue car is crooked."
I finished mounting the running boards. Here are the final pictures of them.
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Not bolted on yet but pretty much done. I like the wood. I coated it with outdoor spar polyurethane with UV protection. If after I paint the car I decide it didn't fit color wise I can always cover in rubber and trim with aluminum.
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Between the water pump/distributor dilemma and working with the wood HOW do you keep your hands clean between projects?.......
LOL. Actually a good question. After I finished the water pump I was gonna start on the hickory....but I knew all the grease on my hands would come off onto the wood. So I put the radiator on. We have a pool and I go soak clean as needed....I actually keep a bar of soap and fingernail brush by the pool. 18,000 gallon pool and a little soap in the water doesn't hurt anything. :-).
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Was it a taper pin or only a riveted over straight pin?
It appears your luck is BACK.......
Congrats on not throwing in the towel and gittin' 'er DUN........there's no glory in having someone else do it.......
It was tapered as beat I could tell. I used a roll pin to put back in so it accounted for the taper.
It had alignment dots on the bottom of the shaft.....presumably to help align the gear and shaft so the pin holes line up.
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I suggest this with some trepidation because In know how much unexpected expenses can affect a budget but ideally you would replace the distributor shaft and bearings. The wear that is visible from the photos would show up in uneven running because your dwell angle will move around all over the place.
Ray.
There are no bearing on the distributor shaft that I know of. There is some play in the distributor shaft but that is be design...best I can tell. If I can't get it running well die to ignition/timing I will probably have to replace the distributor shaft. Now that I know how it all works and fits together I could pull it in 30 minutes.
Any idea where I can get replacement springs for the centrifugal advance? I read in the manual they can get weak and effect performance.
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A little more progress.
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I bought a leather belt at a goth shop in the flea market for $16. Got SS screws at Lowes. I'm a regular Rosie now after 25 darn rivets!
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Took the valve apart and got it on the pump. It was very tedious putting the valve back together while on the pump....had to have my wife's help as my big paws wouldn't fit.
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When I got this car the trunk and behind the seat were full of junk. I went thru it all and got rid of the garbage.....if I was unsure of what something was I threw it in a bucket. Today I found these.....and the light went on and I knew what they were!
Just painted them......the leather I was gonna use is not wide enough. It was fabric that was in there......so I will go to Hobby Lobby and see what they have that might work.
Dodge Brothers
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I did. My car would be shammed among all those near perfect cars. Maybe I will make the 2016 meet as my cars will be 90 years old next year.