Dodge Dee 2

I am trying to find out more inforamtion on this 1936 Chev convertable and have uploaded some photos - Can anyone identify if the body styling ,head lamps , body trim etc is authentic .? One thing I have noticed is that the windscreen is straight and not V shape as seen in some google photos of the same model . Is it possible that it started as hard top and has been cut down ? This car has spent its life in South Africa ,hence the right hand side steering wheel . Thanks for your help Farrol (you will see I am a Dodge man about to become a Chev one as well )

Thanks for all your advice . Frank - The system was changed to 12V in the UK and the regulator is probably UK brand . I will clean the contact using white paper and get the dynamo brushes checked Curti -I have googled the reference items and found some good data Keith - .if my checks dont succeed then a new regulator will be bought

I have recently had problems with the AMP meter suddenly dropping back to zero whilst driving .In the past it would hover between 0 and 20 when driving and flutter about erratically presumably the voltage being regulated . I have adjusted the left hand side yellow screw ( clockwise ) in the attached photo slightly which has helped but then after driving for a while it goes back to zero .( I only do this as I watched a mechanic do it some time back ! ) The amp meter display seems to working correctly as when it was on zero for a journey of 50 miles I tried to start the engine and their wasn't enough power in the battery .I have also tested with voltage meter . Has anyone got any ideas what the problem is . I have attached photos of the regulator and amp meter .My Dodge was converted to 12V about 10 years ago but still has a dynamo Thanks Farrol

Thanks everyone for your advice. I will have another go today and If I don't succeed and I will take your advice Jpage and order a couple leather boots from Auto Parts Obsolete !

I have attached the page from the service manual. What is the best way to remove Centering Button , are they on a thread or push fit ? Once this button has been removed will the other fitting /parts release easily Is item 16 on the diagram the Trunnion pin ? As you can see I haven't done this before and dont want to damage something that is going to make this into a big repair job - Thanks

I am replacing one of the rubber boots on the prop shaft and need help in how to remove the Universal Joint /casing as in the photo so I can remove the damaged boot and replace with the new one . The photo shows a cleaned up joint but I cant see an obvious way to remove it ? Thanks Farrol

Thanks for advice and will try the test

I will take some photos this weekend and post them here for further analysis -Thanks

My 36 Dodge which had a 12 V conversion before my purchase a few years ago has always started when the key is released after turning to start position . It starts fine like this but I would like correct this Any ideas where I can start ? Farrol

Good catalogue ,wish there was a Dodge equivalent but I am sure some parts are inter changeable Farrol

Tinindian - thanks for links - Roberts don't do it but Bobs Automobilia seem to have one in their on line catalogue so will check it out

I have a 36 Dodge coupe with 2 spare wheels in the fenders .I am trying to find the rubber ring which protects the body from the chrome struts which supports the wheels .I have posted some photos to help ID .If anyone can point me in the direction of a supplier or have spare one (two) I could purchase . I have shown the left hand side which is still OK but on its way out .My RHS has now gone .I am based in UK and happy to pay postage or send it to friends in US who would post onto me Thanks Farrol

THANKS for all your comments and advice - seems that the 90 lbs is good calibration to use and now I know why I have left and right turning threaded nuts .I will check to see if someone in the past has swapped drums around .

I have just bought a torque wrench and would like to know what calibration I should set to tighten front and rear wheel nuts .It measures in both ft/Lb and N.m . Also any tips for using as I have never used one before ? Thanks

Prefer a full carb unit ready to overhaul and use .Contact me at farrol@breathe.com Farrol

CarbKing - Thanks for detailed advice - can you guide me to where you state "top of the toe of the float (end opposite hinge) to the top of the bowl casting". Where /where is the toe of the float? Is it vissible in the photo I posted above ? Thanks Farrol

Jpage -Thanks for your guidance -I have maanged to find something very similar to Permatex and will give it a go and then report back for others to see . I have also been told to try and sand /polish the flange down to a smoooth finnish where the washer connects with body of the carb as sometimes hairline scratch can cause leaks - so something for next weekend

I have a Stromberg EXV 2 carburetor which I understand was the original spec for export models .My Dodge was exported to Australia but is now in the UK. .As it has been running rich (as identifed from my prevous forum question I used a repair kit last week to give it clean and then re assembled it but I cant get get the large brass screw plug at the base of the sump to seal. This was not a leaking before I dismantled it . I have tried different washers but it still leaks when I fill the sump . Does anyone have any ideas to seal this screw . On another issue the maintenance manuel states that the Float level should be set at 5/64 inch . Can anyone expain how and where you measure this .? I will try and upload photos to show the screw and sump /float in question Thanks Farrol

Plenty of good guidance from Hudsy and others for me to look at so I will tackle this carb as it seems the rich mixture is the cause my problem -Thanks all

yes it does have a knob on dash you pull out . This car was exported to Australia as a rolling chassis and the body pressed and assembled in Aus .Its now been in UK for the last 10 years Not sure if Stromberg or Carter , I have attached some photos of Carb and model number - maybe you can help ID and offer further advice -Thanks Farrol

I will check out these galoshes from Bernbaums - and the compression test .Thanks for directions Farrol

Thanks for the lead -I will now go and do some investigation on my choke Farrol Goldblatt

As with previous reply I need to check what type of choke I have -thanks for the direction

I need to check - I assume its manual as its original and a cable runs from the dashboard choke knob to the carb

Thsi is my first winter with my 36 Dodge which started perfectly in the summer months but now our temerature in UK is down to around 40 F (5 C) I am having starting / firing problems - Battery is good ,cranking over , points seem good,spark plugs are fairly new and sparking . When I do clean them they very qickly turn black with carbon after running for 15 - 20 mins . Electrics are converted to 12V and there is fuel pump which is working . After about 10 times trying to start with breaks inbetween to let the fuel settle it will fire very slowly ,sounds like one cylinder then two then the rest .Once all firing and it runs very well - any ideas what I should be looking for ?