dc8ups

Same drill 1933 Stude Model 56 230flathead 6. Looking for a throwout bearing. It is somewhere in my shop but I'll be danged if I can find it Anyway, if somebody has a new one ( or good used)

Robert, I sent you a PM

I will check Egge out. Thank you! And how do you post pictures on the forum?

Ok, its been a while since I updated so here goes....... Running gear- pretty much restored and waiting to bolt to the frame, Transmission-rebuilt, bell housing-blasted and painted, new clutch and pressure plate sourced, flywheel- resurfaced. Now here is where I need some help, I have pretty much torn the engine down to the bare block. All accessories are rebuilt or are in the process. I will list the vendors I used and review them at a later date. I know that finding new pistons is probably impossible but the originals look pretty good ( as do connecting rods) so I am thinking that a clean up honing for the bores and new rings may work just fine. Thoughts? The camshaft is fine but I am positive that I want to hot tank the block and that is going to mean new cam bearings. Where can I go for those as well as crankshaft bearings? (I found RAM Engines, has anybody used their services) Also, I thought when I took off the timing cover that I would find a chain but instead it is two meshed gears. The smaller crankshaft gear looks fantastic but the larger camshaft gear has a broken tooth. It appears to be made from some sort of different metal as a magnet will not stick to it. Surely it can't be aluminum? Anyway, I need a new crankshaft gear as well. Thoughts are where to find that? As always, thank you to the forum for all of the invaluable help! Scott

sorry, I meant to send it to Mark lol

Could you send me a pic to spepmiller@aol.com?

Sent you a PM

Have been busy lately but thought I would drop a line. Thanks to several members on the forum I have been able to rebuild or source four Houdaille shocks, rebuild the steering box, rebuild the front suspension (new kingpin and thrust washers), and install a new IR compressor and blast cabinet. I have been able to strip, prime, and paint as I go which has been great with the new compressor. The frame is blasted and primed/painted. The tranny is in VT being rebuilt by Roxbury Gearbox (very pleased with their communication, they get right back to me on every question and seem very competent). They engine is another matter which will require a whole new thread! Oh, and I have to give a big shout out of thanks to Klaus up in British Columbia whose help has been invaluable in finding some parts. Thanks!

32mod55 you have a pm

Robert, Thanks again! The NAPA 262-1353 was indeed a good fit. The kingpin and the bushings are the right size. I just needed the machine shop to notch a "flat" in the kingpin so the locking bolt would hold correctly. Other than that, it will work just fine. Mucho thanks! Scott

I need the two rear shocks for my 33 Model 56 St. Regis. Apple hydraulics rebuilt the front two but the rears were beyond repair. Thanks, Scott

Gary and Robert, thanks to you both. I will check out both sources and post my results and experience on the forum. Thanks again! Scott

Okay, the bare frame is off to the powder coater. Radiator, shocks, and steering box are all headed out to specialty rebuild shops. The plan is to finish stripping the shell down to bare metal (about half way done now), which means pulling all the wood out and making templates of what is still salvageable. Once that is done, I will tack weld the door shells in place to establish the gaps, brace the body with some 1" stock on the inside and start repair of all the crusty stuff on the bottom edges of the shell. A lot of that is out of my skill set, but I have a friend that is quite capable and I am buying a rotisserie to make it all happen. Now, I am turning my attention to the front and rear axles. For the front, I will sandblast and powder coat the beam. I can press out the king pin and bearings but I was wondering where I could find replacements. Anybody out there know? I am hoping that they are of a standard size and that I can order them from Speedway or some other provider. As far as the rear axle goes, I FINALLY got the rear drums off. Now the challenge will be to strip the axle down and see if it needs anything done to it. Anybody got any expertise, advise, or suggestions on this? The leaf springs and shackles, both front and rear look good. I am thinking of giving them a blast in the cabinet, a respray and calling that done. Thoughts? As always, thanks! Scott

Ok, I finally fell back and punted on removing the steering wheel. I am going to take it to my buddy at the machine shop tomorrow. Next chapter- I have pulled the wheels and inspected them. They are rusted through on several of the spokes. The area of rot is the flat portion of the "D" on the artillery spoke. That area is extremely thin. I am assuming that I can cut out the bad and weld in some 16 gauge. Thoughts? Also, I pulled off the giant nut/hub cover and removed the cotter pin/ nut/ wheel bearing. The spindles look to be in good shape ( the grease was surprisingly good). I was wondering if it is possible to get new wheel bearing sets. If so, where? Same for the drum brake parts. Everything looks to be in good shape except for a broken spring on each side. Availability? New brake shoes or new friction material applied? I have all of the steering gear off the car. The ball joints look great but is it possible to get new as well? Just the rear axle, and leaf springs and off the frame goes to be blasted. I am thinking I am just going to epoxy prime and paint black but anyone else have any other ideas? I was thinking I would powder coat but of course, it is not very original. Anyway, thought I would give an update and as always, thanks for the info. Cheers, Scott

Okay, After a good soak with PB Blaster and a turn with the impact I FINALLY got the nut off. Now, the problem is this. I constructed what I thought was a pretty good puller for the job out of some angle iron and threaded rods. Despite hours of trying I cannot get the steering wheel to separate from the shaft. Very frustrating. I am cranking on it enough that it further cracked some of the Bakelite but still no luck. I mean the steering wheel will not budge. I am very hesitant to use any head as I am sure that will really mess up the wheel hub. Thoughts?

Okay, After a good soak with PB Blaster and a turn with the impact I FINALLY got the nut off. Now, the problem is this. I constructed what I thought was a pretty good puller for the job out of some angle iron and threaded rods. Despite hours of trying I cannot get the steering wheel to separate from the shaft. Very frustrating. I am cranking on it enough that it further cracked some of the Bakelite but still no luck. I mean the steering wheel will not budge. I am very hesitant to use any head as I am sure that will really mess up the wheel hub. Thoughts?

Thanks Spinney! My employer, UPS, used to loan me one from time to time. Now they loan me a 767 on occasion. I will try again on that top nut. I figured that must be it but man she is frozen solid. The tube/levers part was cake. No rust, nothing. Thanks again! Scott

Thanks! I managed to get the lower portion of the column disassembled and was able to remove the tubes/levers. Next problem is this. I can see what appears to be a rather large nut holding the steering wheel on but it doesn't seem to turn. I am not even sure that it is supposed to. I next tried to turn the large nut at the base of the column where it joins the box but it is frozen as well. Does anyone know which of these two avenues I should pursue. I just need to get the steering wheel off, nothing further. Thanks again!

Thanks! I managed to get the lower portion of the column disassembled and was able to remove the tubes/levers. Next problem is this. I can see what appears to be a rather large nut holding the steering wheel on but it doesn't seem to turn. I am not even sure that it is supposed to. I next tried to turn the large nut at the base of the column where it joins the box but it is frozen as well. Does anyone know which of these two avenues I should pursue. I just need to get the steering wheel off, nothing further. Thanks again!

Hello all! I am rapidly tearing apart some rather shoddy work on my Dad's St. Regis Brougham. The radiator is heading out to Brassworks today. If I can get the steering wheel pulled, I will send the steering box out for rebuild today as well. It is a Ross box, which I have rebuilt before, but not of this vintage, so off to The Rebuild Factory it goes! My question is this- on the center hub of the steering wheel is the horn button, the spark advance lever, and what I think (but not sure) is the manual choke lever. The rebuilder does not want the steering wheel attached, and really neither do I since it will be a lot more to ship and I want to restore the steering wheel while the box is out for rebuild. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get this thing off without tearing something up. Any thoughts? Anybody out there done this before? I still haven't figured out how to post pictures or this would probably go a lot easier. lol thanks, Scott

Gonna try to post some pics next week!

Hello! Just starting my resto. Wondering about the radiator shell and the thin vertical grille strips. I am assuming that the shell is chromed, although when I got mine it was painted silver. As for the vertical strips, are they chromed, painted one of the exterior colors, or painted black? or possibly some other color? Next topic, my floorboards and toe boards are basically missing. There is some wood there but it is plywood, and badly deteriorated. I am assuming that the original board were either oak or ash, but I am not sure. Thoughts? Also, were there any kind of ribs or frames as well for support? Thanks in advance! Scott

pm sent

Oh, Robert, thanks for the info on the engine. I assumed it was the same as the previous years flat-6. I might be interested in those parts if they are for sale. Thank you!

Thanks to all! Studeq, I would love a copy of the Review! Do you take paypal? or some other method? I will be restoring it as close to stock as possible. The engine has been rebuilt so that is behind me. I have a new clutch, flywheel, bell housing, etc. I have found someone local ( I am in Panama City Beach, FL) to recore the radiator. All of the chrome will be going to Librandi's in Middletown, PA. I lived there for 15 years and I am impressed with their work. The frame, leaf springs. steering gear has all been blasted and painted. I don't know if the steering box has been rebuilt, or even what all is involved with that, but if I need to go through it I will. My father took the car to a local "expert" who completely disassembled the car, did a modicum of work and then pushed it to the back of his shop where it has remained for the last 18 months. Sadly, I don't think we will be getting any money back either. I will take possession of the car tomorrow and move it to my small shop where if WILL be finished. Unfortunately, I was not the one that pulled the car apart so putting it back together will be like a jigsaw puzzle. I am more mechanically inclined so I am not scared of getting the car running but the body work scares me. Around the bottom edge there is a fair amount of tin worm damage. Hopefully, I can find someone who can help with that. I am also keeping my fingers crossed that there is enough of the wood remaining to make templates. I will try to post some pictures early next week. I am only able to find 3 paint schemes: two-tone blue, two-tone green, and black. Does anyone know of any other factory schemes or codes? Thanks again! Scott