dc8ups

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About dc8ups

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  • Birthday 12/26/1964
  1. Same drill 1933 Stude Model 56 230flathead 6. Looking for a throwout bearing. It is somewhere in my shop but I'll be danged if I can find it Anyway, if somebody has a new one ( or good used)
  2. I will check Egge out. Thank you! And how do you post pictures on the forum?
  3. Ok, its been a while since I updated so here goes....... Running gear- pretty much restored and waiting to bolt to the frame, Transmission-rebuilt, bell housing-blasted and painted, new clutch and pressure plate sourced, flywheel- resurfaced. Now here is where I need some help, I have pretty much torn the engine down to the bare block. All accessories are rebuilt or are in the process. I will list the vendors I used and review them at a later date. I know that finding new pistons is probably impossible but the originals look pretty good ( as do connecting rods) so I am thinking that a clean up honing for the bores and new rings may work just fine. Thoughts? The camshaft is fine but I am positive that I want to hot tank the block and that is going to mean new cam bearings. Where can I go for those as well as crankshaft bearings? (I found RAM Engines, has anybody used their services) Also, I thought when I took off the timing cover that I would find a chain but instead it is two meshed gears. The smaller crankshaft gear looks fantastic but the larger camshaft gear has a broken tooth. It appears to be made from some sort of different metal as a magnet will not stick to it. Surely it can't be aluminum? Anyway, I need a new crankshaft gear as well. Thoughts are where to find that? As always, thank you to the forum for all of the invaluable help! Scott
  4. Could you send me a pic to spepmiller@aol.com?
  5. Have been busy lately but thought I would drop a line. Thanks to several members on the forum I have been able to rebuild or source four Houdaille shocks, rebuild the steering box, rebuild the front suspension (new kingpin and thrust washers), and install a new IR compressor and blast cabinet. I have been able to strip, prime, and paint as I go which has been great with the new compressor. The frame is blasted and primed/painted. The tranny is in VT being rebuilt by Roxbury Gearbox (very pleased with their communication, they get right back to me on every question and seem very competent). They engine is another matter which will require a whole new thread! Oh, and I have to give a big shout out of thanks to Klaus up in British Columbia whose help has been invaluable in finding some parts. Thanks!
  6. Robert, Thanks again! The NAPA 262-1353 was indeed a good fit. The kingpin and the bushings are the right size. I just needed the machine shop to notch a "flat" in the kingpin so the locking bolt would hold correctly. Other than that, it will work just fine. Mucho thanks! Scott
  7. I need the two rear shocks for my 33 Model 56 St. Regis. Apple hydraulics rebuilt the front two but the rears were beyond repair. Thanks, Scott
  8. Gary and Robert, thanks to you both. I will check out both sources and post my results and experience on the forum. Thanks again! Scott
  9. Okay, the bare frame is off to the powder coater. Radiator, shocks, and steering box are all headed out to specialty rebuild shops. The plan is to finish stripping the shell down to bare metal (about half way done now), which means pulling all the wood out and making templates of what is still salvageable. Once that is done, I will tack weld the door shells in place to establish the gaps, brace the body with some 1" stock on the inside and start repair of all the crusty stuff on the bottom edges of the shell. A lot of that is out of my skill set, but I have a friend that is quite capable and I am buying a rotisserie to make it all happen. Now, I am turning my attention to the front and rear axles. For the front, I will sandblast and powder coat the beam. I can press out the king pin and bearings but I was wondering where I could find replacements. Anybody out there know? I am hoping that they are of a standard size and that I can order them from Speedway or some other provider. As far as the rear axle goes, I FINALLY got the rear drums off. Now the challenge will be to strip the axle down and see if it needs anything done to it. Anybody got any expertise, advise, or suggestions on this? The leaf springs and shackles, both front and rear look good. I am thinking of giving them a blast in the cabinet, a respray and calling that done. Thoughts? As always, thanks! Scott
  10. Ok, I finally fell back and punted on removing the steering wheel. I am going to take it to my buddy at the machine shop tomorrow. Next chapter- I have pulled the wheels and inspected them. They are rusted through on several of the spokes. The area of rot is the flat portion of the "D" on the artillery spoke. That area is extremely thin. I am assuming that I can cut out the bad and weld in some 16 gauge. Thoughts? Also, I pulled off the giant nut/hub cover and removed the cotter pin/ nut/ wheel bearing. The spindles look to be in good shape ( the grease was surprisingly good). I was wondering if it is possible to get new wheel bearing sets. If so, where? Same for the drum brake parts. Everything looks to be in good shape except for a broken spring on each side. Availability? New brake shoes or new friction material applied? I have all of the steering gear off the car. The ball joints look great but is it possible to get new as well? Just the rear axle, and leaf springs and off the frame goes to be blasted. I am thinking I am just going to epoxy prime and paint black but anyone else have any other ideas? I was thinking I would powder coat but of course, it is not very original. Anyway, thought I would give an update and as always, thanks for the info. Cheers, Scott
  11. Okay, After a good soak with PB Blaster and a turn with the impact I FINALLY got the nut off. Now, the problem is this. I constructed what I thought was a pretty good puller for the job out of some angle iron and threaded rods. Despite hours of trying I cannot get the steering wheel to separate from the shaft. Very frustrating. I am cranking on it enough that it further cracked some of the Bakelite but still no luck. I mean the steering wheel will not budge. I am very hesitant to use any head as I am sure that will really mess up the wheel hub. Thoughts?