Vintagecarguy
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Posts posted by Vintagecarguy
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Thanks everyone for the information. I'm going to put a voltmeter on the alternator and see what its putting out. The car was restored 10 years ago, but I don't know how long the alternator has been on there. The car has quarts headlight bulbs and a CB radio so I guess the alternator has to be there but not a 12 volt alternator. I'm going to check and see what's going on.
Thanks again everyone. Vintagecarguy.
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My dad and I bought a 1930 Model A Ford. The head/tail lights, brake lights, and horn were not working. We started working when I noticed that the Alternator said '12V Neg' on the top and on the back I think I read Delco. But everything on the car is 6 volt, even the battery. Could someone have rewired the Alternator to be a six volt? My grandfather ran wire with a six volt bulb from the charging point on the alternator and then another wire to ground with engine running and the bulb lit up and got brighter when the idle was raised but the bulb didn't blow??? I'm confused but everyone else is either confused or says not to worry. What should I do? Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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vermontboy, thank you for the information and the tips.
Vintagecarguy.
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All engines use babbitt bearings, the modern version is a shell bearing made of steel with a thin coat of babbitt on the inside. The old bearings were poured babbitt with a thick layer of babbitt melted directly into the connecting rod or main bearing.
So, it is doubtful any modern oil will attack babbitt bearings or we would all be in trouble.
There are firms like Penrite that make oils and other lubricants for the needs of the old cars.
They recommend diesel oil because it has more zinc. The zinc content of motor oil has been reduced in recent years because they are afraid it will poison the catalytic converter. I don't see how that can be a problem. Maybe on an old engine that burns oil like a maniac and then the zinc will be the least of your problems.
Zinc was only added to motor oil about 1950 or 51, to get over a problem some of the new OHV V8s were having with cam and lifter wear. They put heavier loads on these parts than the older engines and zinc helped reduce wear.
Now that the high performance pushrod OHV engine is a thing of the past, they are taking the zinc out.
A roundabout way of saying zinc was not even in oil in 1924 when your car was built.
Rusty_OToole,
I cannot thank you enough. I have to ask you what kind of oil would you recommend for our 1924 Oldsmobile (engine, transmission, and differential)? The car has not run for many years and although the oil is clean we would rather change it and that of course leads us to detergent or non detergent? Thank you again.
Vintagecarguy.
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Someone told me to use a Diesel specification 15w40 oil for a 1924 Olds that my grandfather and I just bought. I have heard this before but I wanted to be sure. Thanks again.
Vintagecarguy.
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tcslr and Alfre, thank you for your help.
Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all, does anyone know if modern engine oil additives can harm babbitt bearings? Thanks in advance.
Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all, does anyone know if modern engine oil additives can harm babbitt bearings? I thought I'd ask before I drain the oil on the '24 Olds. Thanks in advance.
Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all, we got the '24 Olds running but now we have to try and run it off of the main tank. The car was last run (an unknown amount of years ago) on the G&G vacuum tank. We are going to give the vacuum tank a try this weekend. If the vacuum tank does not work, is it okay to leave the vacuum line hooked up to the tank or is it better to close off the vacuum port at the intake manifold? Thanks in advance.
Vintagecarguy.
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DO NOT put hypoid gear oil in your transmission. The additives in the oil will eat any bronze bushings in it. If the manual specifies engine oil, use a single grade oil - maybe 40 weight. It is an unsychronized sliding gear type of transmission which requires double clutching for shifting. Too heavy an oil will affect how the transmission shifts.
Terry
Terry,
Thank you for all of your help!
Vintagecarguy.
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Why does the instruction manual say to put engine oil in the transmission? Would it be better now a days to put a heavy weight gear/transmission oil in, or would it be okay to put a heavy weight engine oil (5W40) in the transmission? just thought I'd ask as I am going through the book finding out what I can before diving in and trying to get the '24 Olds going. Thanks again to all who have helped me out!
Vintagecarguy.
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dictator27,
Thanks for the advice. I just got the "Instruction" book this morning and come to find out the car is a negative ground system. Most antique cars I've been around are positive. I will definately try the 15W40 you recommended. Thanks again.
Vintagecarguy.
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Okay, I got the instruction manual for the 1924 Olds but what does it mean when they say "ENGINE OIL EXTRA HEAVY" and "ENGINE OIL MEDIUM HEAVY"? I understand that one is for summer and the other is for winter, but what is the actual weight of the oil? Would extra heavy be something like a 30 or 40 weight? Thanks again.
Vintagecarguy.
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To advance the spark you go against distributor rotor rotation. To retard it you turn the distributor with rotor rotation.
Terry
dictator27,
Thank you for the help. This car is different from the ones I am used to, as it uses a cable hooked up to the spark lever shaft and not a rod. Thank you again.
Vintagecarguy.
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Now after looking around some more, I have to ask about the spark advance. I know it is slightly out of what is normal. When I pull the spark lever all the way down (about the six o'clock position) the distributor turns counter clockwise (while sitting in the driver's seat) and when the spark lever is pushed back up (to about the three o'clock position) the distributor turns clockwise. What I do not understand is which way is the spark advanced? I remember reading somewhere that with the spark lever up the spark is advanced and with the spark lever down the spark is slowed. But because the lever has a set screw, and the car has not run in many years, I do not know if this was changed. This sounds very confusing, if I can clear anything up please let me know. Thanks in advance (no pun intended!!!),
Vintagecarguy.
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Now after looking around some more, I have to ask about the spark advance. I know it is slightly out of what is normal. When I pull the spark lever all the way down (about the six o'clock position) the distributor turns counter clockwise (while sitting in the driver's seat) and when the spark lever is pushed back up (to about the three o'clock position) the distributor turns clockwise. What I do not understand is which way is the spark advanced? I remember reading somewhere that with the spark lever up the spark is advanced and with the spark lever down the spark is slowed. But because the lever has a set screw, and the car has not run in many years, I do not know if this was changed. This sounds very confusing, if I can clear anything up please let me know. Thanks in advance (no pun intended!!!),
Vintagecarguy.
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If you can get hold of a Standard Catalog of American Cars 1805-1942 I think it will have the serial number info. Most vehicles back then were registered by the engine number.
The Marvel carb would be worth keeping if you can't find the correct Zenith. If you find a correct carb, the Marvel was commonly used and would be an easy sale to someone else who needs one.
Check with the National Antique Olds Club www.antiqueolds.org and talk with their 1924 advisor. The NAOC guys are the most knowledgeable I've found on the prewar Oldsmobiles. I admit to being very weak in my knowledge of them.
rocketraider,
Thank you. I have tried to contacted the National Antique Olds Club's 1923 advisor (they do not seem to have a 1924 advisor) but have not heard back from them yet. I will have to check into the book you mentioned. As for the Carburetor are there any issues with the Marvel-Schebler? I know a rebuild kit is available. Do you know if the Olds would have been positive or negative ground? Thank you again for the information.
Vintagecarguy.
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Good questions which I cannot answer. Hopefully someone here can, and shall. If not, I suggest you contact the R.E. Olds Transportation Museum in Lansing, MI for info. - http://reoldsmuseum.org/
D Yaros,
Thank you for the information. I am going to email the Museum now and see what they say. Thank you again.
Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all, my grandfather bought a 1924 Oldsmobile Opera Coupe, it didn't come with a battery and although I know it is a six volt car, I don't know if it is positive or negative ground. Also, where is the serial number normally located? And the engine number? Another question I have, is about the kind of Carburetor we have on the car. I know the original was a Zenith but they could be replaced. The car has a Marvel-Schebler TSXU-832 Carburetor on it. Before we start digging in and getting the car running, I wanted to know if this carb was worth keeping? Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Another question I have is about the kind of Carburetor we have on the car. I know the original was a Zenith but they could be replaced. This car has a Marvel-Schebler TSXU-832 Carburetor on it. Before we start digging in and getting the car running, I wanted to know if this carb was worth keeping? Again thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all, my grandfather bought a 1924 Oldsmobile Opera Coupe, it didn't come with a battery and although I know it is a six volt car, I don't know if it is positive or negative ground. Also, where is the serial number normally located? And the engine number? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Just poke around with a screw driver, especially near any joints. Also check the roof bows by sighting along the roof line front to back and side to side. If the roof appears sunken the bows are likely bad. Bear in mind that at the factory the wood was assembled first then the sheet metal was tacked in place, with most of the fasteners being under the metal skin of the body, meaning that you can't simply replace wood without disassembling the body. There are various products said to "restore" rotted wood. We have no experience with those. If there is rot it most likely is in the "sills" that run front to back at the bottom of the body or in the roof bows. Especially check the door post to sill joints.
Restorer32, thank you for the advice. I will definitely have to try these things out when I see the car again. Thank you. Vintagecarguy.
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Open each door and try to lift it. Chances are the wood in the car needs at least some attention. What make car are you thinking about?
Restorer32, Thanks for the reply. The car we're looking at is a 1924 Oldsmobile Model 30 "Opera" coupe. The exterior of the car was apparently restored in the early 1990's and it does look that way. I'll have to take a close look at the wood. How should I check the wood in the rest of the body? Is just a visual inspection okay? Thanks again. Vintagecarguy.
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How would I go about checking the wood in the body of a closed 1920s car? How can I tell if the wood is in good shape? Thanks again to everyone. Vintagecarguy.
12 Volt negative ground Alternator on a car that is all 6 volt positive ground
in General Discussion
Posted
Friartuck,
Thank you for the information. I am somewhat a purest, liking things to be as original as possible but I say that if I didn't change it I'm not going to worry about it. But when it comes to this alternator I am confused. If the alternator turns out to be a 12 volt I have to see about buying a new alternator or a good old generator.
Thanks again, Friartuck.
Vintagecarguy.