Vintagecarguy
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Posts posted by Vintagecarguy
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Hello all,
I am looking into buying a 1924 Nash 690 series sedan. The owner said that the engine was overheating this past summer and that it was caused by the carburetor and/or the heat pipe that comes off of the exhaust manifold. I was wondering if this could be the problem and/or what other things could cause overheating?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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On 8/8/2016 at 1:48 PM, First Born said:
Vintagecarguy, impossible to switch front springs for back ones. The only resemblance is they are both coils. Front springs can sag over time. Back not so much. Good news is replacements are available.
I suspect the inspection plate that is missing was left off a long time ago. Should not be a problem. Not too difficult to make another.
Ben
Ben,
Thank you for the advice.
On 8/8/2016 at 4:22 PM, Rusty_OToole said:Both those things are rather common. Over many years springs can sag. Buick uses coil springs on all 4 corners. You might have a mechanic inspect the suspension and frame to make sure there is nothing else wrong. New springs cost $100 - $150 apiece and they should be available. You may find just the front ones are bad, they should be replaced in pairs to keep the car even.
The missing cover plate won't hurt anything. You might ask the seller if they have it, or if there was a funny looking piece of metal in the trunk.
Suggest you have a mechanic give it a thorough inspection. It is common on a car that old, that you will need to spend money on repairs no matter what the seller says, or how good it looks. What is important is to know before hand what you are letting yourself in for.
Rusty_OToole,
Thank you for the advice.
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On 8/8/2016 at 1:00 PM, JohnD1956 said:
I think you should inspect the location where you saw the car. It's possible that it is uneven and the result is the lean to the side. Even if the springs were inadvertently swapped, it still should not lean too much to the one side. I'd want to be very careful it not hiding a bent frame. Try to count the turns on each front spring, just in case someone cut a few turns off of one to lower the vehicle.
Also, I am certain that the circumference of the rear spring is much larger than the front, so much so that the rear springs probably do not fit into the pocket for the front springs. It should be easy to see however. The rear springs have that larger circumference, and less turns, and more space between the turns. Keep in mind however, that if the rear springs are in the front, then they are probably compressed from the excess weight of the engine and trans that they are not meant to carry.
JohnD1956,
thank you for the advice.
On 8/8/2016 at 2:34 PM, buick5563 said:I'm pretty sure they are like 1955 springs, the rears are elliptical on top and bottom and can't exchange.
buick5563,
thank you for the advice.
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1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:
More than likely the springs are worn. The front/rear springs do not interchange.
avgwarhawk,
thank you for the information. I was told that the car was apart for sometime before being put back together, so it might be possible that the springs were switched accidentally.
16 minutes ago, old-tank said:... inspection plate missing ... not uncommon. They are out there used or easy to make one.
old-tank,
Thank you for the information.
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Hello all,
I am looking into buying a 1953 Buick Special with Dynaflow and had some concerns. First off, the car leans to the driver's side, just enough to be noticeable while looking at it. At the same time, the car seems to be higher in the back than it is in the front. I am suspecting that it is the springs, but I thought I would ask. Could it be possible that someone put the rear springs in the front and the front springs in the back?
Also, while looking under the car, my father noticed that there is an inspection plate missing from the bottom of the torque converter housing. Is this something to worry about, or is the cover commonly missing?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all,
I am looking into buying a 1953 Buick Special with Dynaflow and had some concerns. First off, the car leans to the driver's side, just enough to be noticeable while looking at it. At the same time, the car seems to be higher in the back than it is in the front. I am suspecting that it is the springs, but I thought I would ask. Could it be possible that someone put the rear springs in the front and the front springs in the back?
Also, while looking under the car, my father noticed that there is an inspection plate missing from the bottom of the torque converter housing. Is this something to worry about, or is the cover commonly missing?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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13 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:
A tick when cold might mean your oil is too thick at startup? Are you using a 5 or 10W-30 or 40?
Spinneyhill,
I am not sure of the weight of the oil.
Vintagecarguy.
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2 hours ago, Joseph P. Indusi said:
Back in the day there was an GM additive for the engine oil that supposedly cleaned the offending lifter to quiet it down.
I would remove the valve cover and when you start the engine cold, use a small piece of wood and press on each rocker arm with a little pressure to see if you can isolate which lifter is causing the noise.
If you can find it this way, check in the shop manual for the valve adjusting procedure and follow it for this one lifter. I think you will need to assure that both valves are closed for the cylinder involved. The manual will tell you the simple procedure to follow and this may cure the problem. The lifter may make some noise when you first start the engine after adjusting, but that will smooth out quickly.
It might be noisy if the lifter drains down when the engine is off and it takes a few minutes for the oil pressure to pump it up again. Curing this might take some more work.
Since it seems to quite down after warming up, it may not be a serious problem unless you uncover some other issues when you remove the valve cover.
Good luck.
Joe, BCA 33493
Joe,
Thank you for the advice.
Gerald
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38 minutes ago, FLYER15015 said:
Have you checked the valve clearance ?
My '40 (320) is set at .015"-.016" when hot. Spec is .015", but I would rather hear them than not.
Are yours solid lifters or hydraulic ? Sometimes Rislone can help the hydraulics.
Only help for solid lifters is proper adjustment.
Mike in Colorado
Mike, thank you for the advice.
I am almost positive that it has hydraulic lifters. I keep hearing about Rislone.
Also, if I remember correctly, the motor was rebuilt, but was then out of the car for some time before being put back in, maybe this has something to do with it...
Thanks again. Gerald.
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58 minutes ago, Aaron65 said:
I have one that occasionally ticks, especially when it's cold and/or has been sitting awhile, and mine's been rebuilt (and I cleaned out the rocker shaft). The oiling system for the lifters on straight 8's is a little backward; it feeds the lifters from the rocker shaft down to the lifters, and it's kind of a trickle. There are a few things you can do. Check the rocker shaft and rocker arm passages to make sure they're clean (and you should if you're not sure). Apparently, there's a small screen in the fitting where the oil filter line enters the head, and it can get plugged (mine never seemed to have that). Finally, I use a half quart of Rislone in mine when I change the oil and it keeps it quieter. Use at your own risk, lest it releases a clump of grease and blocks an oil passage.
It seems like every time I replace a set of lifters, I get one that's weak and is occasionally noisy on startup or at random other times. My Corvair has one, my Mustang has one, my Special has one. I chalk it up to modern manufacturing or my being an idiot somehow.
Aaron65,
Thank you for the advice.
20 minutes ago, 1954 Buick said:I had a noisy one on My '54, when I changed the oil, I added a bottle of Lucas oil treatment, cleared it right up
1954 Buick,
Thank you for the tip.
Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all,
I am looking into a 1953 Buick Special. 263 with Dynaflow.
When the engine is cold you can hear a lifter ticking, but after about 5 minutes you would have to listen hard to hear it. My question is, is this something to worry about? And if it is, would it be simple to fix? The story is that the engine was rebuilt at some time in the past, but there is no paper work. Other than the tick when cold it is a good running motor.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all,
I am looking into a 1953 Buick Special. 263 with Dynaflow.
When the engine is cold you can hear a lifter ticking, but after about 5 minutes you would have to listen hard to hear it. My question is, is this something to worry about? And if it is, would it be simple to fix? The story is that the engine was rebuilt at some time in the past, but there is no paper work. Other than the tick when cold it is a good running motor.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Vintagecarguy.
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On 6/29/2016 at 10:28 AM, ply33 said:
Could be. They made minor changes to the band mounting over the years so you'd have to verify the part numbers. I think all the floor shift mounted transmissions had the parking brake handle on the right side of the transmission, so even if the parking brake can't be swapped you could probably use the brake on the replacement transmission.
The '33/'34 are setup with the shift tower bolted to a frame cross member while later ones (not sure when they changed) have the tower bolted to the transmission. I have heard, but not confirmed, that you can fit later Mopar transmissions into the '33/'34 by swapping the top covers. There are a number of people I've talked to who apparently have done this to fit a '37 DeSoto overdrive transmission into their '33 Plymouths.
ply33,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
Thank you for the information.
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9 hours ago, ply33 said:
Parts books are being reprinted. Assuming that it is the same/similar to the Plymouth of the same era (a fairly safe bet as '33 is when Dodge and Plymouth started sharing a lot of the same drivetrain parts), it probably only has parts that match up for '33 and '34. They did a number of changes in '35 to add synchromesh.
ply33,
thank you for the information! It is interesting that you mentioned the '35 transmission. The gentleman who owned it before my grandfather said that they replaced the original '33 transmission with a '35 transmission and he didn't replace the parking brake hardware. He gave us the parts for it, but I was wondering if the '33 parking brake components would fit to the '35 transmission?
Thanks again.
Vintagecarguy
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2 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:
'33-'34 Dodge 6, T194, case #603728; also DB '33 1/2 ton to eng. TDP6057 and '34 1/2 ton Eng. T5-2877 to 5658.
'33 DO8, T198, case 611361, same as CT, CQ Chryslers and interchanges with SD 611362.
'35-'39 DU6, D5, 8, 11, T86. 1T86-1 with brake on '36 D2, T86-1 without brake, no overdrive.
It would be easier if you put up the raised cast text on each one: T????? and case number, if they are not covered here.
This is from The Hollander, 18th Ed. 1952.
Spinneyhill,
Thank you for the information! I will take a look at each transmission and get back to you.
On another note. The previous owner told us that he had to replace the original '33 transmission with a '35 transmission, and he didn't replace the parking brake hardware. He gave us the parts for it, but I wanted to know if the '33 parking brake components would fit to the '35 transmission?
Thanks again.
Vintagecarguy.
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Hello All,
My grandfather bought a 1933 Dodge DP 4 door sedan and it came with about six transmission/parts transmissions. Does anyone have parts numbers or serial numbers for mid-1930s Dodge transmissions?
Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Hello All,
My grandfather bought a 1933 Dodge DP 4 door sedan and it came with about six transmission/parts transmissions. Does anyone have parts numbers or serial numbers for mid-1930s Dodge transmissions?
Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Most, if not all of the mechanical parts are the same. The body and doors are the only real differences.
keiser31, Thank you very much. Vintagecarguy.
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Are 1949 Dodge Wayfarer mechanical parts any different from other Dodge mechanical parts of the same year? I read somewhere that because the Wayfarer is a little rarer that parts would be harder to locate? Is this true? I would assume that mechanical parts would be the same if not similar.
Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Hello all, does anyone know where parts for a 1926 Willys-Overland Whippet can be found? Namely engine components; pistons, valves, rods, etc? Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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I am looking for a 1929 to 1936 Chevrolet. Any body style. Must be in good running and driving condition. I have a budget of about $7,000 to $8,000. Will travel up to an hour and a half from Ansonia, Connecticut.
Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
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Everyone thank you for your interest the Pontiac was sold today. Vintagecarguy.
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The joke is that on British roads, you would be lucky to find a long enough straight to get her up to top speed before having to slow down for a bend!
I do of course exaggerate but In reality, with the tourer, I always stick to the back roads and trundle along at little more than 40 m.p.h. I have gone over 50 but probably down hill with the wind behind me!
The gearing actually prevents the car from going too fast and a sense of self preservation when relying on two wheel brakes also keeps the speed down. IN FACT, it is not the brakes that are the problem but the narrow cross ply tires.
R.White,
you bring up very good points. Like you say the gearing prevents it from going too fast, but when you think about it they were never meant to go faster than 40-45 anyways because the speed limits were so slow when they were new.
But Like you said, the brakes and the tires make 40 miles per hour fast enough.
Thank you for your reply.
Vintagecarguy.
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Vintagecarguy, I know I'm not alone when I say that I'm saddened to see that you and your grandfather are passing this car along to someone else. I'm sure the starter issue could be dealt with fairly easily. You presented yourself on the forum very well indeed, and many of us will happy to try to guide you on the 1932 Pontiac or any future effort.
I know I identified with your commencement of (what we hope will be) a lifelong learning curve on vintage cars. Even those of us who have been at it for more than 50 years are still learning. And we wish there had been a resource such as these forums when we began the journey.
Please keep us in mind and stay in touch.
Very best regards, and with wishes for happiness and success.
George aka Grimy
George,
thank you for your kind comments. As much as I would like to keep the Pontiac (I've liked it since I first saw it 8 or 9 years ago), I'm not really for project cars anymore. At one time when I was a little younger when "anything could/can be done" I was interested in projects but now not so much.
It does sadden me too that we're moving on with it. I think even my grandfather too, and he doesn't get attached to cars as often as I do.
The starter is not a big deal and isn't the reason we're selling it.
Thank you again for your kind words.
Gerald Ambrose Jr.
1924 Nash six cylinder overheating
in Technical
Posted
Spinneyhill,
you bring up many good points.
I do know the owner and several people I know know him, so I do trust him. He is selling the car because he has no place to store it.
Thank you very much for your help.
Vintagecarguy.