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Tom Boehm

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Posts posted by Tom Boehm

  1. Nothing comes up when I click on the links in the previous post. Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone else have this problem?

    The pictures will answer his questions.

     

    Series 50 means it is a Lasalle. The rest are Cadillacs. Each has a different body design or front end styling. Series does not indicate body type such as coupe, sedan, convertible, etc.

    Later on the series numbers were replaced with model names such as Calais, Deville, Eldorado, etc. 

     

  2. I don't need another one. I'm not finished with the one I have. If I ever do this again, a convertible sedan is high on my list. Are you able to do your own work on this car? There are a lot of unknowns in a car that has been sitting, even if it is restored. There is potentially a lot of work and expense to get everything "sorted". By that I mean everything working properly and reliably. Don't overpay for this car. I am not trying to discourage you from getting this car. Just be aware that just because a car is restored doesn't mean everything works properly. You may be experienced and know all this already. 

    • Like 2
  3. The VIN is not on the firewall tag. The VIN is the engine number or the frame number. I have a 1940 Lasalle and the engine and frame number are the same. So I don't know which will be on the title of a 1937. 

    Is this car you are considering a restoration project?

    I agree, I don't think a modern "collision shop" is the best option. All they do is paint and replace parts. A shop specializing in classic car restoration would be good. Another option is a street rod shop. Even though this car is probably all stock, they have the skills to do this work. 

    I don't know what gauge metal was used on the old cars. I do know that modern sheet metal on cars is thinner but harder than the old cars. The old car metal is softer and thus can be shaped. 

    The car in Louisville was an extreme restoration project/parts car. 

     

    The firewall tag will tell the model number (5029), the body number which is the xxx th  Lasalle convertible sedan built that year, a code for the original exterior color, a code for the original interior color and/or material, and possibly a code for any (SO) special order items put on by the factory. 

    • Like 1
  4. Hello Blind Pew, 

    1. I made a template out of thin cardboard called mat board. (Available at art supply stores or Hobby Lobby) I think it was more accurate than corrugated cardboard. Make your mistakes getting the template right and cut the linoleum right the first time. 

    2. Make it one piece of linoleum. Seams don't look good and could peel up in the future. The floor in my car had 2 levels so I did one piece on each level. 

    3. Any bumps will show through the linoleum. Fill in around countersunk bolt holes and sand smooth. You could use bondo but that would prevent you from removing that bolt in the future. Spackle like Ready Patch or Durhams Water Putty would work too. (Both available at paint stores).

    4. I think I used an Olfa razor knife with break off blades to cut the linoleum. Use a metal straight edge on top of the template to cut straight lines. You could possibly carefully use the template as a guide on curves. Take your time. You don't have to cut all the way through in one pass. My car had baseboard only in a few places so that is why I wanted to cut the linoleum as accurately and carefully as possible to avoid gaps.  Yes baseboard will hide gaps. I suggest waiting for a hot summer day to cut the linoleum so the direct sunlight will soften it and help it lay flat and cut easier. 

    5. I used the adhesive Forbo sold and recommended. (Forbo is the manufacturer of the linoleum I bought). I used a notched trowel to spread it. The label specified the notch size. It was a little messy but I don't recall it being a big problem. Have the recommended cleanup solvent handy and some rags and some disposable gloves to prevent spreading glue where you don't want it. I masked off with paper and Frog Tape painters tape all areas around the edges I did not want adhesive on. 

    6. I think it is a concern if the floor of your car is made up of planks. Over time, the linoleum could crack over the seams between the boards due to seasonal expansion and contraction of the wood. Did the original do this? 

    • Like 1
  5. Hello Rejuvenated, The engine number range for 1937 Lasalles is 2230001   through   2262005.    Cadillac used only the raw block casting from Oldsmobile for Lasalle engines 1934, 1935, 1936. This does not apply to a 1937 car. Cadillac and Lasalle V8s 1936-1948 were 100% designed and built by Cadillac. 

     

    Here is a quote from engine serial number information included in the Cadillac and Lasalle Club roster:

          "In 1936-1937, a letter ("A" in 1936, "B" in 1937) replaces the second and third digits and immediately following zeros of the engine number. (e.g. in 1937, engine No.3130004 has frame No. 3B4). (note 3130000 is the sequence for 1937 Cadillac series 70 and 75)

         In Lasalle, numbers above 2229999 (1936) and 2239999 (1937), the "B" replaces the second number and subtracts 2 (1936) or 3 (1937) from the third number. Lasalle engine No. 2245144 has frame No. 2B15144 (the 15,144 th Lasalle engine built). Lasalle engine numbers started with 2230001. "   end quote. 

     

    It can be determined if a car has the factory original engine if the engine number and the frame number jive according to the above code. 

     

    Do you know where the engine serial number is on the engine? Some quick general thoughts on 1937-1940 Lasalle: Many mechanical parts and interior parts were shared with Cadillac. Lasalle body shells were shared with some models of Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, and Pontiac. The 1937-1948 Cadillac/Lasalle flathead V8 is known for being powerful, quiet, and smooth. Only the most expensive models of Cadillac, Buick and Packard had more horsepower. Mechanical parts are generally not a problem to get. Cosmetic parts are getting difficult but not impossible. 

     

    Was this car offered for sale on a trailer at the Kyana AACA swap meet in Louisville KY. this weekend? 
     

     

    • Like 1
  6. Like I said in my first post, I checked my car against the wiring diagram in the shop manual to verify it is correct. 

    Here is a quote from the 1939 Cadillac shop manual:

     

    "The starter is connected back to the generator in such a way that when the generator is charging, a reverse current flows through the cut out relay, breaks the circuit, and prevents starter engagement. The ignition switch is connected in series with the relay so the ignition must be turned on before the starter can be operated."

     

    Let's wait and see if dennisspeaks, the OP, question is answered before we muddy the waters more. 

    • Like 2
  7. Here is how my 1940 Lasalle is wired. I have not yet installed the wiring harness. I was able to easily trace the temporary wires. I verified this is correct by consulting the wiring diagram in the 1939 Cadillac shop manual. 

    There are 4 terminals on the starter. 

    The 2 big ones with nuts on the starter solenoid:

         The one closest to the block is a copper strap to the starter.

         The other big one with a nut has 2 wires on it. One big cable to the negative battery terminal. One wire to the ammeter on the dashboard (10 gauge wire orig.)

    Two smaller terminals with screws on the starter relay:

         Front one/right one goes to the middle terminal (generator) on the voltage regulator on the firewall. (10 gauge wire originally)

         Rear one/left one goes to the starter button on the dashboard. (16 gauge wire originally)

     

    I am not good at electric but I imagine you could use a continuity tester to find where the loose ends at the starter are connected to at the other end. Then you can connect them to the correct terminals according to the instructions above. 

    • Like 2
  8. I use the term "prewar car" a lot but I agree it is vague. To me it means American cars built in 1942 or before. There is a definite difference in styling and mechanical design before and after the war. I think the arbitrary dividing line of pre war and post war is used because WWII is a big historical event that everyone knows about. A much more accurate and meaningful cutoff term would be pre 1949 or post 1949. The 1946, 1947, and 1948 model years used the same styling and mechanical designs as the immediate pre war years. It was 1949 and after that fat fenders gave way to smooth sides. Automatic transmissions and overhead valve V8 engines became very popular after 1949. I am suggesting 1949 as a more accurate dividing line between prewar and postwar trends in the American auto industry but there are exceptions to that even, namely the 1948 Cadillac. 

    • Like 1
  9. On my 1940 Lasalle I used "Poly Slide" sold by Restoration Supply. www.restorationstuff.com. On page 47 of their catalog. It is a plastic modern replacement. The original spring liner on my car was wax impregnated cardboard/fabric? that is not reproduced. If you google "leaf  spring liner" other brands and versions of the same stuff come up. 

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