Wilf Sedanet

Today was quite fruitful. I’ve cleaned the torque tube housing further, degreased it and gave it some paint. Same for the brake … uh … hats? My buddy tried to make the lock work again in the left door but a previous owner did some botch work on the latch mechanism. There was some strange welding going on and there is no locking action (the lock and knob does go down with the key but the door handle opens the door even if it is locked). He also set the door straight (it was sagging a bit) so it slams shut like a safe again. Very nice!

Tomorrow work continues on cleaning the axle housings and getting ready to assemble everything again. At home I have been busy thinking out the radio project and checking how the cleaned up backup lights will look and fit. I am very happy how the glass cleaned up (actually one is NOS, the other is original). Also I was hoping to use the original volume knob for the new amplifier but my pricey Fluke multimeter finds the resistance off the charts quite fast; it starts at 80 Ohms, a slight turn (a few degrees) goes to 900 Ohm, then in to kOhm and then all the rest is OL (open lead) so resistance is off the charts. Both potmeters have this. I don’t know if this is age or the completely different voltages and resistance tube amps have. The on/off switch part works like a charm though. Disclaimer / reminder: I did not ruin my own original non functioning radio. That one is still in tact sitting at home. The potmeter and radio housing / parts were bought on eBay. That was a gutted radio for sale for 5 bucks.

Starting on the axle. Lots of cleaning work. A lot of grease and grime. If on Monday we get everything done we will go ahead with the third member swap.

Actually I’ve bought one already from a very nice and trustworthy gentleman on this forum and he shipped it in a very well built case. It arrived here very fast. The reason I did not share this yet is because my buddy who owns a garage did not think it would be here so fast so there’s another car on the lift. As soon as that one is finished we will start on mine and I will share the pictures. What I have bought is a complete third member from a 1950 Buick Special with Dynaflow. It has a more relaxed ratio of 1:3.6 in stead of 1:4.45. This will make driving on our highways much better (from 4000 to almost 3000 RPM). Previously I have refurbished a speedometer because mine was jammed. That new one was way off; when I drove 60 MPH it told me I was doing 80 MPH. That’s a difference of 1:1.33 and going from 1:4.45 to 1:3.6 is a difference of 1:1.25 so the speedometer probably came out of a Buick with a 1:3.4 ratio, or it came out of a 3.6 as 8% deviation has been in use for liability issues for a long time. After the swap when I drive 60 the speedometer will tell me I’m doing around 64. Sounds perfect! I hope this isn’t too mathy

I hope the transplantation will commence next week. In the meantime I’m trying to do some small side projects. Besides a diy radio rebuild (to modern class D and a diy sub in the trunk - no bone shaking bass just a small extra to make the double bass intelligible) and the temp gauge project (on hold right now) I needed to tackle the rusted out reverse lights. I am by no means a restaurateur and since I have no time for patience it will not be a sight for connoisseurs. I have dunked the housings in rust remover multiple times and managed to disassemble the internal housing as well. After that a lot of filing and sanding ensued and even some soldering and painting. I had some hammerite grey laying around so grey it is, for now at least (had to stop the rust process). future plan is making a diy led for it. Why diy? Because I dislike multiple leds and white colors. I want it to look as original as I can with the added benefit of led longevity, safety and ease. A COB led of 3000k will be the goal. I will make a few installation changes; extra fuses and a custom resistor changing thingy (maybe those inline glass fuse holders) so I can run the led with 6 volt now and 12 volt if I ever switch over in the future. Please note: the HG rust remover is quite dangerous. Although it smells like cola it’s a bit more dangerous. Please wear protective goggles and gloves when using this stuff.

Oh my… she’s so sexy! If I see this I would say: deal with safety and tech first (sheet metal, wiring, brakes) and don’t worry about the paint until you’ve driven it as is. Enjoy how she drives. She looks quite straight and, completely biased here, she is worth all the effort. It’s not the cost and value that counts, it’s the passion you put into it and the love you get back. I own a ‘49 56s which is IMHO one of the best designed cars ever, but way up there with it are the 76s of the years ‘42-‘48 and owning a car like yours is my secret dream. *edit* Oh boy, I just found out I love the ‘42 76s the most due to its grille… You really do own one of the best designed cars ever! *edit*

I need exactly that license plate bracket, are these still available? Been looking my socks off on eBay and the likes.

Both of these pics are of my own car but I’ve them as lock screen and main screen background on my phone and they make me happy every time I see them. There’s something about that angle with these ‘49 Buicks and the colors and backgrounds on these pics make them pleasing to my eyes.

That looks amazing, Tom! I bet that would sound and drive like a dream, and with decent gas mileage to boot. Great setup!

Hi Tom, Yes it is. Currently the ratio is 49:11 or 4.45:1 which is quite extreme and no fun when driving faster than 40 MPH.

To all other readers with parts or axles: please don’t hesitate to offer yours too, I’m a bit of a hoarder when it comes to hard to come by parts for you never know when…

Cool, thank you very much Tom!

Hi Tom, that sounds good! I think the engine should be torquey enough to overcome the difference. Looking forward to the pictures. Ben: do you have a manual or Dynaflow? The only hesitation I would have is if the Dynaflow can cope with the extra load and heat - it has no gears, only a ‘final drive’ and slippage. That means that in stop & go it would have to work a lot harder, right?

Hi Keith, Thanks a bunch! The ratio now is 4.54 which gives it some pickup & go (very relative with the Dynaflow) but isn’t very economical nor easy on our Dutch highways. The set on Bobs is the same ratio but because it clearly talks about 40-48 I didn’t dare take the risk (the price is high and shipping + VAT will more than double the costs). Now you’ve given me some feedback I’m considering it though… Where can one get the rivets to fasten the crown (which I called the ring earlier)?

Hi Paul, it was nice talking to you IRL and I just loved your other Buick. I’m picking up the Buick project again, mine needs a new rear axle how’s this project going along?

We finally came round to checking it all. Your suspicion was certainly right but it wasn’t the only thing wrong: the Dynaflow wasn’t properly adjusted on the inside. After adjustment and test driving the extreme shake and shudder was gone but the noise stayed. So we went back and again removed the axle and looked inside. Inside the axle the bearings were stuck and the ring and pinion have battle scars… So now I have to try and find a new axle or ring and pinion. At Bob’s Automobilia there is a set for 40-48 series 50 but not for 49 series 50. It will be a tough find I fear… Some pics of the worn pieces:

Looking for a '49 Buick rear axle or the worn parts in it. The axle I have in my '49 Buick series 50 with Dynaflow has worn out ring & pinion and to replace it I would need: - Ring & pinion in new or (very) good condition - mine sings and has play - The rivets used to attach the ring - The locking pin that goes into the pinion shaft at the torque tube side - Pinion shaft shims Or as said a decent axle for a Dynaflow with everything complete in it. Pinion specs: 11 teeth, #1338453, stamped with a big 30 next to where it says 49.11 GM Ring specs: 49 teeth, #1328610 Bobs automobilia has a set for series 50 from 40 to 48 with different #'s so my guess that won't fit...? I live overseas but have shipped countless parts across the pond many times before and I even got an address in the US that I can use for parts that can only be shipped by container.

When looking over the first picture above I suddenly think: wait a minute, there is a round cap there blocking a vacuum port maybe…? It's the opposite of the one I used for the vacuum advance. By the way I bought a '64 Dodge (Dart) workplace manual at Faxon before my holiday and took it along.

Thanks for your responses, guys. The carb has a tag but I didn't write it down somewhere. When I bought the carb it had zero vacuum points. There was this threaded orifice on the passenger side halfway up. It is here that the seller could screw in a vacuum tube and it is there where I installed the vacuum advance tube on. There are no other vacuum points on the carb. I had the (presumably) Holley thermostat attached and bent the linkage to a point that the car ran good cold, but because the thermostat linkage only goes one way and the choke linkage works with sleeves the car could suddenly stall after bumps or corners because the choke could fall open. To counteract this I installed a spring in stead of a thermostat rod on the choke that pulls it open all of the time. That spring is screwed in at one of the screw holes of the thermostat housing in the manifold. Attached are pictures of the carb and my PCV hack (and mitigation of the hot air problem of after market air filters to boot):

Wow Rusty, your suggestion made a huge difference! It not only kicks down again but at normal driving it shifts at around 15 MPH to the 2 and when stepping on it at the traffic lights it flies off and shifts to 3 at around 40/45 mph. I didn't even give it full spurs but this was modern acceleration and normal traffic is quite doable now. My girlfriend cannot handle the no-choke situation and when the engine is cold she stalls it a lot and she already had about 5 backfires. I have the idea that the carb now has a little stumble sometimes at transition between idle and pump. Could it be backfire damage? What is the carter's weak spot when it comes to backfires? It could also be the ignition and timing since it has been running badly and awfully rich with the previous carb and my friend mechanic did the timing for the old carb on the fly (feeling rather than with a strobe). I think that if this car would have a choke release* and proper timing and ignition parts it would really drive like a dream. Getting there! * talking of which: would a choke thermostat of a '66 carter BBS work? These are the only ones on offer on eBay and the likes. My carb doesn't have the vacuum choke pull off and has no vacuum lines to make one.

I bought the car late may, the previous owner did already do a lot of maintenance like new bushings, all kinds of new suspension parts, 'new' (DOT 4209 but lots of tread) tyres (Chen Shin; cheap Maxxis) and a proper alignment. The car feels quite modern in its handling as it is. I haven't looked at the shocks but the car keeps it tyres quite firmly at the ground and all the speed bumps Europe is full of are no problem. Since then I've changed out the engine oil, let someone set the valve lash (which was already quite good as I heard) so it is already quite a nice handling car. There is a little bit of a tremor in the drive line at 60 MPH that will resonate quite some more at 70 MPH (which we rarely drive anyway) so I guess the drive line is not precisely balanced as it was from the factory. It's not perfect but it's getting better all the time. Attached are some pictures I made from the underside when I changed out the oil so you can see the new parts.

Thanks for the explanation! I'll try that.

So if I reverse adjust it; push the kick down shifter all the way back and throttle full open and then adjust the linkage between them, that would be the correct setting?

Thanks, and that sounds good! There's still a lot to do. As the previous carburetor was a hack I had to change all linkages. I set up the kick down by the book: when the lever on the tranny is fully forward I could put a 3/16" pen in the holes. That part was correctly set up. So far so good. I then tuned the hot engine with choke fully open (which it is anyway) to 500 rpm (which is low but with this carb it will still run). I then adjusted the linkage between the tranny and throttle linkage. It shifts only a little later than it did before but even when I give it lots of gas from a standstill it shifted to 3 before 20 MPH and kick down is not functioning. I do do like the fact that this car already drove us over 2000 miles through Europe and keeps getting better all the time. My girlfriend bought some original dash parts that was missing and we both are tuning it and cleaning it up bit by bit. So much fun these little cars are. Well, little… in Europe this is considered a big car

Just to let you guys all in the know: We've driven the Dart all the way to Sweden. On the Power Big Meet (one of the biggest car shows of the world with about 20.000 US cars attending) there was this guy who sold refurbished carbs. He had a Carter BBS and a warranty: If it doesn't work, bring it back and you get your money back. So I bought the carb, swapped it on the meeting grounds and it works perfectly. It doesn't have a functioning choke at the moment since we haven't got the Carter thermostat pulloff but the engine gets hot quite soon so no worries there. The carburetor is an older type so it only has vacuum for the timing retardation, so I had to hack the setup for a functioning PCV valve setup. The car now idle's much better (although after driving a few hundred miles at 70 MPH it will stumble a bit again when driving stoplight traffic right after), there is no bogging at quarter gas and it has much more oompfh now. On the pictures you can see the PCV hack (a more permanent solution would be finding a stock filter housing or making a plug but for now it works), the side of the carb and a picture after cleaning the engine bay and making a spacer for the fuel line. As a bonus I added a movie of the Power Big Meet cruise and a picture of our '64 Dart to give it some context. We drove behind an old Dart IMG_7491.MOV