Wheelnut
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Posts posted by Wheelnut
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I would never buy a Frod title.
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Rockable, I remember when you were looking for one. What did you eventually get? We should all try to bring our '49s to the same event sometime.
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It just says the photo must be of an un-repainted plate. So provide a photo of it taken before repainting.... I also certify that the accompanying photograph is of the original, readable, un-repainted plate(s), not of a manufactured facsimile. .. <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> -
I used to have hard starting problems on my MGB roadster after shutting it down on hot days. I had just converted it to the earlier dual carb setup but didn't have the heat shield that goes between the carbs and the engine. The heat shield is just a flattish piece of sheetmetal. I added a home-made heat shield made from a thin piece of shiny aluminum and that cured the problem. It worked by just blocking the radiant heat from the engine and exhaust manifold.
A simple reflective heat insulator sleeve slipped over the fuel line will do a lot to keep it cooler. A reflective heat shield under the base of the carb, combined with the phenolic carb spacer, will reduce carb temperatures significantly. Not very original looking, but effectve.
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That sounds plausible Jon... but I doubt it. The fuel in the line has probably already gotten pretty hot by that point and isn't going to get much hotter after shut down than it already is. The fuel in the line would not be significantly cooler while running, because the flow is not great enough to make much of a difference. Besides that, the float valve should still shut off any marginal pressure increase. The most probable cause of heat soak problems after shutdown will simply be the boiling of the fuel already in the carb float bowl. After shutdown there is no longer any cooling effect from airflow through the carb, so it's going to heat up dramatically and rapidly.Willie - nothing of which I am aware will solve the issue.However, the return line will minimize the issue. Why? Once the engine shuts off, the inlet valve in the fuel pump closes, preventing fuel from returning to the tank. The engine heat then builds pressure in the fuel line, and dumps additional fuel into the carburetor which will also percolate or leak out beside the throttle shafts. The return line relieves the pressure back into the tank, so a few tablespoons of fuel don't get dumped into the carb to percolate.
Jon.
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You asked what "50-" means. Guess I don't understand your question. Perhaps if you rephrased it.
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1950?
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She's a beauty.
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Lebaron Bonney is another source for interiors and materials. You can get their information packs that come with free fabric samples for your car, if it's listed, or you can ask for individual samples from their catalog.
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If there is not already one there, a thick spacer made from a heat insulating material can be used under the carb to reduce heat transfer from the engine.
Something like this for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-WCFB-Phenolic-Carburetor-Insulator-Spacer-4-Barrel-Heat-Soak-Riser-Kit-/261556767976?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
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It was called a Kadett. 1900 cc. I bought one just like that for my wife in '78 as her first car. It had an automatic. I had a 69 Kadett Rallye for myself at that time as my daily driver. Oh, and a '69 Riviera GS, and a 62 Skylark wagon...
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Add a return line and an in-tank pump and you are half way there to fuel injection.
I fuel injected my old MGB with its siamesed-port head. Doing a straight-8 ought to be pretty similar. Hmm...
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I'd go with the better looking face and bezel. It should be easy to transfer the working mechanism, once you get the indicator needle off. The difficult part might be removing and replacing the needle, depending on how tightly it is pressed on. You could also use the working spare as a reference to help you diagnose and repair the original. Try to preserve the odometer value of the original if possible.
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I think the persecution GM has gotten over this recall is a joke. Lots of car makes out there will have this same problem if you hang a bunch of junk from the key.
I'll wager this is mostly a female problem. Guys don't typically hang a ton of crap on their keys because they usually keep their key in their pockets. Women on the other hand frequently have an entire junk store hanging from their keys. I've seen 'em with a wad of keys and trinkets size of a softball and probably weigh a pound.
My daughter borrowed my Mercedes recently while I was fixing hers. When she brought it back I asked her if had given her any trouble. She said that it kept stalling on her in traffic and that she'd have to restart it several times. I asked her to show me. She started it up, then I watched in comic disbelief as the key slowly turned itself to the off position... under the weight of a big wad of junk that she had attached to the key fob! I showed her the cause and she swore not to make that mistake again.
People need to take some responsibility for their own dumb actions instead of expecting the auto makers to protect them from themselves.
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There is a gap because the gasket is missing. Don't try to tighten it out or it probably will crack.
Here are photos of the areas in question from my '49. The front should have a stud. The rearmost slotted "stud" is a locator pin. It's not supposed to have a nut. The profile of the manifold there is sloped, so a nut and washer could not work anyway. The 2nd stud from the rear has a large plate that distributes the holding force over the center of the rear exhaust port.
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A leaking vacuum advance will hinder its operation or even be non-functional. However that should have only a negligible effect on causing a hesitation or misfire on acceleration. A small vacuum leak like that will pretty much only affect the idle settings, and the lack of vacuum advance will reduce cruise-speed fuel economy. If it's getting adequate fuel, then my bet is that your spark is blowing out when you step on it. The higher cylinder combustion gas pressures on acceleration make it more difficult for the spark to jump the sparkplug gap. Any weakness in the ignition will tend to show up. Even tiny cracks in plug wires, or dirt or carbon tracking in the cap or rotor provide alternate leakage paths for the spark when it can't spark at the plug.
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Get the rest of the ignition in shape while you're at it. Plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor and plug wires. Any weakness in the spark will contribute to misfire, bogging on acceleration.
How's the accelerator pump doing? Does it produce a strong healthy squirt into the carb when you open the throttle?
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Wilf,
I'm pretty sure this is original.
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Was that ever even a factory option? I Thought all the 215 V8s were auto and the V6s were 3spd stick or auto?
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Hydraulic lifters don't really "cushion" the valvetrain, they just take out the lash automatically.
You need to compare this valve opening with the other valves. Is it stopping before fully opening, or is it not returning to fully closed?
There could be carbon/coke buildup on top of the piston, on the face of the valve, on the backside of the valve, or all of the above causing some kind of interference. Try backing off from TDC a bit and see if the valve opens further (but not so far as to allow the valve to drop into the cylinder). Check the height of the valve stem tip when closed; does it match the other valves?
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A bent pushrod is caused by either the valve sticking in the valve-guide, or by interference from either valve spring coils binding or piston interference. I don't believe this engine is an interfence design where the piston tops can hit the valves if the timing is off, so that leaves valve spring bind.
Check for broken valve springs; if a spring is broken a piece of the spring coil can wedge itself into the rest of the spring such that it binds when the valve is opened.
Are the bent pushrods on intake or exhaust valves, or both? Exhaust valves run hotter and are more prone to sticking than intakes when hot. Usually caused by insufficient valve stem to guide clearance. This can happen if the guides were replaced and not reamed to the proper clearance, or from rust or severe carbon or hardened gum buildup.
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Not enough curent is geting to the starter. If the battery is sufficiently charged then there is possibly a bad ground connection from the battery to the block. Could be that moving the shifter was temporarily making better contact from the frame ground through the shifter linkage to the transmission and the block. Check the block ground cable.
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A lot of replacement coils are fatter --- just get a longer screw...and probably not noticeable enough to lose points in judging.
Car is too rough all around right now to win any beauty contests. For now my focus is on making it a nice driver while trying to stay as original as is practical.
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Eric, there was no need for any crimp tools for the wire set I got from CARS. There were metal 90deg connectors for the plug ends already crimped on, similar to original style. The other end that plugs into the distributor needs to be trimmed to length with a pair of sharp wire cutters or sturdy scissors. The cut end gets a brass contact with prongs that stabs into the wire core to make contact. It's designed so that you just squeeze it on with your fingers. When you insert it into the distributor cap it grips the wire securely, and you slide the rubber boot down onto the cap.
I did have to tweek the preinstalled 90 deg ends a bit so that they would grip the plug tips more tightly. But no special tools needed.
Buying a car from out of state private seller...
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Wheelnut (see edit history)
That means he lied. A handwritten bill of sale is not a title in Alabama. The auction stated that it has a clear Alabama title, which it evidently does not. You would be a fool to complete this purchase.
edit: Apparently Alabama will not issue titles for cars over 35 years old. http://ador.alabama.gov/motorvehicle/Title_FAQ.cfm
This could still be a nightmare to get titled and registered in your state.