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wayne sheldon

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Posts posted by wayne sheldon

  1. That has got to be about the best worst I ever heard. The worst I ever ran into myself was many years ago I saw a nice enough '60s pickup outside a flea market I was leaving. I walked by it, noticed an ignition switch badly wired and hanging under the dash. The 'seller' (?) walked up, followed a minute later by two of his best buddies, all well dressed and clean (NOT!). I commented on the ignition switch. He quite matter-of-factly replied that the original switches were notorious for failing and the repair was of the best quality. A comment about the front and rear license plates not matching was that the DMV had sent them that way. It really was a decent truck, and the price was right (why wouldn't it be?). He had the pink slip in his hand and showed it to me. At a glance I memorized the VIN in short term memory and then casually wandered over by the driver's door and looked through the windshield to read the VIN on the dash. He knew what I was checking, and quickly commented again about the DMV issued it that way and said it was a common occurrence. I stammered some excuse, and walked away.

    If I had seen a police officer around? I probably would have alerted him. But I didn't, so I left. I did keep an eye in my rear view mirror as I drove away.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 4
  2. In the first place, those in spite of the appearance, are not fingerprints. They are the result of the painting process leaving thick spots of wet paint that wrinkle as the volatile vapors evaporate out of the drying paint. Certain paints including some "sign painter's" paints are made to be fairly thick so as to not run. The paints used for license plates in those days were similar. 

    It most likely is very original. (However, I am not a license plate expert either?)

    • Like 6
  3. Women in manufacturing was more than cheap labor during the Great War. Production had to be ramped up for the war effort at the same time much of the labor force was being sent off to war. Unlike World War II, women workers were mostly sent back to their "domestic duties" after the earlier war ended.

    As for the serious health effects of soldering? Those weren't fully understood yet in those days. And even today, they are not taken seriously enough. Just how much lead is carried in soldering smoke? I don't think it has been carefully studied? I would doubt that much actual lead is carried in the smoke. However, I do take care with ventilation,  and usually keep the air flowing the smoke away from me. The bigger danger is getting lead residue on one's hands, and then ingesting that. Then and now, some sensible care should be taken. I have done soldering my whole life (well, at least since I was eight!). I have made thousands of circuit boards for emerging technologies (my dad was a cable television pioneer). Repaired my first radiator by the time I was twelve, and a fair number of them since (been working on one for my '15 model T for the past week!). I also serviced and repaired another couple thousand circuit boards building and repairing communications systems for about thirty years. If I start (?) acting strange? Maybe that will be my excuse?

    Most toxic lead poisoning has been through ingestion, not breathing. Still, some care NEEDS to be taken! Enough breathing of vapors can become a serious health risk if some steps are not taken.

    • Like 5
  4. I believe Brass is Best is right. I am not a model A expert, but as I recall, the cabriolet was introduced as a 1929 model. Also, pay attention to the cowl lamp. Generally speaking, the cowl lamp option for 1928 and 1929 was only on some models of four-door sedans, and the cabriolet in'29. For '30 and '31, all body styles (except maybe trucks?) could order the later style cowl lamps as an option. My limited understanding for the '28//'29 models is that someone found evidence of some era exception to the rule and another body style that got cowl lamps? I don't really know about this? But this is what some model A people told me a few years ago? So all of a sudden a bunch of people with '28/'29 model As started putting reproduction '28/'29 cowl lamps on cars that never had them before. Some because they wanted something different. And some to put turn signals in.

    Regardless. That model A was a bit special as it was one of very few 1929 models other than four door sedans to have the cowl lamps.

  5. Studebaker did have a steel disc wheel option in the mid 1920s that used the same hubcap as did the wooden spoke wheels. However, I don't recall them having that option as late as 1929. Wire wheel options on Studebaker (and most other cars) used different hubcaps than did the wooden spoke wheels. Sometimes, and some car makes, the steel disc wheels had different hubcaps of their own.

    Regardless, this is a Studebaker hubcap.

  6. I remember that car from some past threads about it. I don't remember whether it was here or the Model T Ford Club of America forum (  https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/index.php  ) for the forum's index page.

    I don't recall the fellow's user name offhand (may or may not be able to find it?), but the car was discussed at some length with no certain identification. As I recall, he shared a number of photos of the car, including close ups of the chassis. He was considering being able to buy the car, but I don't recall if he did. It was likely a friction driven transmission, and several suggestions were made as to manufacturer. I know Lambert was suggested, and Lambert had used a number of unusual different radiator shapes. The size of the chassis suggested it may have been a light delivery truck. That would be unusual for a friction drive, but some were built back in the day. 

    Clearly, it had been somewhat restored at some time, probably back in the '50s. It was also suggested that it may have been a bunch of era bits and pieces put together, and not a single car originally. Looking at the radiator, if I recall correctly, I think it had had a modern core installed?

     

    An intriguing possible project?

  7. Califunny REQUIRES an outside rear-view mirror on the left side of the car regardless of the car's year of manufacture. They have for several decades now. Grandfather clause not recognized or nonexistent. Open wheel speedsters, 19-aught horseless carriages, no place to mount one? Doesn't matter. They will sometimes cite drivers of such cars. Many hobbyists (including me) do drive cars for thousands of miles without such mirrors, and, mostly, aren't bothered about it. But sometimes, for whatever personal or local political reasons, some officer will cite drivers for not having such mirrors.

    Windshield wiper for the driver is another not grandfathered in Califunny rule. They also do sometimes cite drivers for not having a windshield wiper for the driver. A longtime friend years ago used to carry a clamp-on hand operated wiper in his model T speedster with a monocle windshield. A highway patrolman once cussed at him when he showed it to the officer. He did let him go without a citation however. That good friend eventually left Califunny. Owners of early horseless carriages that never did have a windshield have on occasions been cited for not having a wiper.

    It has been awhile since I have heard much on the subject around here, but I haven't been driving any antiques for a few years either. A lot of hobbyists have never been bothered over these details. However quite a few have been. Most of my model T speedsters have been run without mirrors or windshields, and the one that did have a windshield, did not have a wiper. Most of the full bodied regular antique automobiles I have had, had both outside mirrors and a wiper. I have a genuine original era brass head with steel bracket mirror that I have been saving for many years that will go on my 1915 T runabout if I ever get it close to done. I had intended to use it on the 1916 T center-door sedan I restored over twenty years ago. But I couldn't come up with an acceptable modification to fit the original open car mirror bracket on a closed car. So I drove it for a couple years with no outside mirror. If and when I get the 1915 runabout on the road, the mirror is the only visible non-factory item I plan to have on the car.

  8. Make sure the wire you get is adequate gauge! Remember, in gauge, bigger numbers mean smaller wires. And higher voltage also means smaller wire can be used for similar amount of light (whatever measure you like, Watts, candle power, lumens, etc). So the smaller wire for a home lamp may not be adequate for a six volt lamp. Wiring for automotive six volt systems should be 12 gauge generally, although some lamps might be alright to use 14gauge for a single small lamp on short wires. For most antique automobile wiring on six volt systems, I prefer to use 10 gauge myself. It results in far fewer troublesome issues. Most reproduction cloth covered wires I have found available have been 14 gauge or smaller. For most antique automobile wiring with six volt systems (a few earlier cars like Dodge and Stearns did use 12 volt systems), 14 gauge will not work.

     

    SSHHH! A dirty little secret. As I am somewhat anal about at least the appearance of era correctness, I WANT my wiring to be cloth covered! I can't seem to buy the size I need and demand (I have tried numerous times, followed a dozen leads given on forums like this one)? I make my own cloth covered wire myself. I go to a local surplus store, the old Army/Navy type stores. They sell parachute cords. Which are a synthetic woven tube filled with several nylon strings. They are available in a wide variety of colors, including nice standard reds blues blacks and yellows. They don't have marker or tracer colors added in, but most people don't notice that. And if I really wanted to, I could probably add those in ink myself? I get good multi strand copper wire with common plastic insulation. Figure the lengths I need, cut wire and parachute cords about a foot too long. Pull all the nylon strings out of the cords and slide (sounds easy doesn't it?) the wire inside. Actually, sliding the wire inside is a bit tricky. The cut end of the copper wires tend to catch on the inside of the cloth tube. They usually are a bit of a tight fit. Sometimes, a bit of tape wrapped around the end can help. Sometimes I put an epoxy "cap" on the end of the wire, and sometimes I use a match to heat the end of the insulation and my fingers to stretch and form an end ahead of the copper wires. Whatever seems to work. Once fed into place, I stretch the cloth tube tight, and use electrical tape to hold it in place. Then brush a heavy coat of shellac the entire length of the cloth.

    A little care in trimming the ends, and they can look great!

  9. Side draft carburetors go way back to the beginning. Forerunners of Holley were made in 1899 if I recall correctly. I have one (probably about 1902/03) that came with my early gasoline carriage project. Downdraft carburetors were used on military aircraft during World War One, and later. A WW1 aircraft downdraft carburetor was tried on a racing car about 1920, but was problematic and never really raced that way. This was reported in one of the automotive magazines of the day, and is the one best known trials before the Winfields of 1929. I had the information on this bookmarked on my old computer several years ago. But when that computer crashed (maybe five years ago now?), I lost nearly two thousand bookmarks. (Fortunately though, more than half my few thousand photographs were recovered.)

     

    Side draft carburetors can be totally correct, and work very well. However, sometimes updrafts are easier to plumb in, especially with intake and exhaust manifolding on the same side. Just more to consider.

    • Like 1
  10. Reading the "Period images to relieve some of the stress" thread, page 247, reminded me of something. When researching speedsters and racing cars of the era, always remember that they very often were run for a period of years, and changes were often made. So, in photos, one needs to consider not only the car's claimed model or build year, but also where in the progression of changes a photo was taken. There is a photo of a car in that thread said to have been originally built in 1923, however the photo is of a restored version of the car more or less how it had been rebuilt after 1930. Later, after it had become a collector car, it was owned for a time by Ralph Stern, famous collector and author of many automobile books.

     

    When carburetors were being researched, one fly that kept getting into the ointment was a couple very famous model T racing cars built in the mid 1920s,and raced into the '30s, that had numerous famous photographs showing the downdraft carburetors on them. The problem was, that the carburetors were changed to downdraft in 1929, among the first cars so equipped. Careful examination of earlier photographs show that the cars had been equipped with updraft carburetors. Some years ago, there was a rather extensive debate on a model T forum about the downdraft carburetor timeline. 

     

    Similar changes were often made to cars. Wheels and radiator shrouds would be changed along with carburetion. Famous racing cars often have to be restored back to a specific year, usually one when the car was well photographed. The year such a car might be restored to, may or may not be the first year it was built or raced.

    One of the racing cars I resurrected, I often said was 1919 by chassis, but about 1926 as it sat. And that was because it had a late replacement model T engine and transmission, that had been originally major modified as a flathead racing engine.

    • Like 1
  11. 1910 Pickard, I had wondered about the name? And I knew I had heard of such a car. I probably saw it at Harrah's collection back around 1970 when I went through it a couple times, or maybe just read some mention of it somewhere. That is a wonderful and intriguing automobile! I hope you do get to use it some for Horseless Carriage activities.

    As a few people have commented, building up a speedster/racer from a pile of junk is fine, and beyond fine. It is a good way to make good use of bits and pieces of both rare or common antique car parts for which there are not enough need or demand for the pieces. And if one can get a nice rebuilt engine for a fraction of the usual cost to rebuild one? That can be a great way to get ahead on such a project. I gather that how it now appears is basically as you got it?

    20 hours ago, alsancle said:

     

    To make it look "right" he needs to cut down the firewall and lower the steering.   But if he doesn't care then does it really matter?

    For a late '20s or early '30s race car look, the body (and hence the steering) needs to be to be lowered and streamlined considerably. And if the frame has been shortened too much? There may be easy ways to add a foot or two back? Otherwise, another frame may be in order. And another frame does not necessarily have to be from a Jordan. Which brings up a question. Do you know whether or not that frame is from a Jordan?

    As to does it really matter if you don't care? Maybe not. Enjoying the journey is one of the most important aspects of this hobby. However historic preservation and representation are also important. And it is a lot easier to enjoy with a car admired by others rather than one looked at with heads shaking and fingers pointing. I have seen that a lot on cars not being done to era standards.

     

    Over the years, I have said many times that one needs to first determine what era they want their car to represent, and then build to that. Remember, both styling and technology changed rapidly! There is a world of difference between 1913 and 1920. And an even bigger difference between 1920 and 1928. Then other huge leaps between 1928 and 1935. Brakes, carburetion, wheels, nothing was the same. The wheels you show would be appropriate for around 1935, not much earlier. If you want the car to represent late '20s? The wheels will have to be somewhat larger and skinnier. A particular bugaboo of mine? Is carburetion. For all practical purposes, downdraft carburetors were NOT used before 1929. I didn't do it myself, but this has been thoroughly researched. The number of racing cars using downdraft carburetors before 1929 can be counted on the 'fingers' of one hand (thumb not needed!). I will say, that most hobbyists aren't all that concerned about that historic detail.

     

    The engine and manifold/straight pipe look very good! They would be wonderful to assemble a period race car around. 

    As I previously commented, decide what year you want to represent, then study as many race car photos of those years as you can find. Then use appropriate parts and materials to create the look of that era. I hope to see you and your car on the road in years soon to come (besides, that would mean I would have a car on the road again myself!).

     

    One of the really fun aspects of speedsters and racing cars, in addition to experiencing the thrill of open speed, is being able to drive considerable distances to meets or tours without taking all day to do so (our modern life often doesn't allow for extended slow drives). A good speedster/racer should be able to handle freeway speeds for hours. Just be well aware of the safety and braking issues!!!! Drive accordingly.

     

    I have always enjoyed both aspects of the hobby, era speed cars, and common era transportation automobiles. I love them both, and have had and enjoyed both over the years. 

     

    A couple of 'regular' antique automobiles I restored.

     

     

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    • Like 1
  12. I have no desire to get into a pissing match over bad ideas.

    And, believe it or not, most of my post was intended to be somewhat constructive. Perhaps poorly executed.

     

    I just hate to see someone making a mistake that I have seen way too many people make. I have seen too many cars done in ways that were just not really done way back when. I have talked with too many people that did them, and they wondered why nobody would buy their prized possession for what they thought it should be worth. Spending boatloads of money to make something extremely nice, but very wrong, usually ends up being something that may not be welcome in the shows or meets one may wish to participate in. When it comes to speedsters, doing it right often can cost less than doing it wrong. And may well be worth more after it is done.

     

    Speedsters, and their related racing cars, generally have a very well deserved bad reputation as a sub-hobby of the antique automobile hobby. It IS a well deserved bad reputation because way too many people put together things that did not really resemble anything that ever was. Building a sort of late1910s style "speedster" using a late 1920s (or even later?) chassis is something that was never really done back in the day.

    Speedsters, like so many "trends" humans follow over the years, did not have a specific beginning and ending date. You can find a dated photograph of the (supposed) "last" Studebaker rolling off the assembly line, but there never was a single ending date to speedster building. In fact, I can and have many times argued that the "automotive hobby" of building speedsters never did fully end. However, there was a "speedster era", a time when many thousands of men, old and young, built such cars every year. They built some very bad junk piles, and they built some really beautifully finished, incredible sports cars!

    People began building speedsters a few years before Henry Ford began selling the model T Ford. However, it was the model T itself that really fueled the passion to build one's own "racing" car or custom roadster. By 1915, companies like Ames and Apco were distributing catalogs of parts and kits to help build your speedster. 1917, Roof offered the first overhead valve head made specifically for the model T. By 1920, there were hundreds of companies offering parts and/or services to aid in speedster building. Thirty-some years ago, I made a list of companies advertising bodies or full kits for model Ts. There were nearly fifty on my list (which I have not seen for several years now, so don't ask). The speedster craze was not limited to model Ts, many other cars were also popular for speedster building. However, the craze grew with the model T Ford, and basically died along with the model T as well. By 1925, about half of the companies catering to speedster building were either out of business, or moving into other things, automotive or otherwise. Those nearly fifty companies selling ready-made bodies, were down to about a dozen.

    Speedsters, as a passion, were triple whammied in the late 1920s. Tastes changed. People had come to enjoy their comfortable coupe or sedan, with its plush mohair seats. They expected comfort, and were less willing to chase the thrill of an open wheel minimalist fast car. In the 1910s, pushing a speedster to fifty miles per hour was really flying! Especially compared to most cars on most roads those days were usually driven at less than 20 mph. The other thing was the economic crash. For the next fifteen years, most people were too busy trying to survive the depression and WW2 to waste money or effort on a crude car, unless that was the only car they could get. And then they weren't into making it into anything other than basic transportation. People turned old cars into work trucks, not pretend racing cars.

    Some people did continue to build "speedsters". Although the style changed, as did the language. "Go-jobs", and other similar efforts, eventually evolved into what became known as "hot-rods". These were different than the speedsters were. In the 1910s and '20s, one desired what looked like a racing car! And racing cars of those days were minimalist bodies on slightly modified chassis (unless they were true racing cars or factory specials which required major custom chassis work). By the mid 1920s, real racing cars had full aerodynamic bodies on heavily modified or custom chassis. In the "speedster era", the first thing one did was throw away the body and maybe the fenders and more. The original wheels were often kept, or if replaced, by wire or steel disc wheels of about the same size as the original wheels. In the beginning of the 1930s, those trends all changed. Now the body was kept, maybe modified, simplified, or lightened. And now, the wheels would be replaced with smaller diameter wheels and fatter tires for better road gripping and handling. Engine modifications were sometimes done in the earlier years, but in the '30s they became much more important for real performance.

    A few people continued to build old style speedsters. Usually young men, high school or college age, wanting a car, but the best they could buy was an ancient model T. And they didn't have any money to build anything fancy. So they went back to the basics, and made do with a minimalist speedster for a few years. Years ago, in the antique automobile hobby, the club magazines and news letters used to run short articles about remembrances from people that grew up in those years. More than a few recalled the speedsters they built during WW2 just so they could have something that wasn't just uncle Al's old model T.

    After WW2, the antique automobile hobby inspired some people to restore old speedsters, although most old speedsters were considered undesirable, and parted out for common parts to be used to restore the old touring car. However, a few others also began building speedsters themselves. I have often said that building "model T speedsters" is probably the longest running continuous automotive sub-hobby in the world. It began with the factory experimental test chassis in 1908 and continues to this day with speedsters built in every calendar year since.

    But the real "speedster era" ended in the late 1920s.

     

    I have often said that speedsters, properly done, are every bit as important to automotive history as is almost any other era car. 

     

     

    Right now, I don't have any together, running, or drivable antique automobiles. Thanks to my ***** Family. Everything I had, over the years, has been sold to pay for their screwups, and medical bills. Such is life.

    My first model T speedster? I followed some bad advice. I was fresh out of high school. Used some non-era materials and methods. Everyone else was doing it. A dozen friends in the local model T club said to do it that way. Within a year, after much studying myself, I realized that was the wrong way to do them. My first speedster, still had the right look. I had followed the look from some era photographs. If I had kept the car, I would have eventually corrected the error. Instead, the car was sold to pay a hospital bill. Every one of the T speedsters I have resurrected, had some original era speedster pieces used in them. One of my cars had the leftover remains of three original era speedsters as its basis. And except for a few things on my first one, all pieces that needed to be made, were made using proper era materials and methods. I found a lot of original bits of era speedster that were parted out in the '50s and '60s when they were considered undesirable by most hobbyists. I bought or traded for the leftovers of other people's speedster projects.

    I never had the money to build an expensive speedster. But the truth is, that most speedsters in the real speedster era had mostly stock running gear anyway. So I was happy with the speedsters I had. And I never needed a concourse finish for a speedster either. Most speedsters in the era weren't as nice as the ones I resurrected. (As a side note, I use the word "resurrected" as a sort of inside joke, because most of the original era speedsters were not kept intact or cared for in any way for many years, so mere "restoration" just doesn't cut it.)

     

     

    The five Speedsters I resurrected from rusty piles of junk. The yellow number 20 is with a friend that bought it almost twenty years after I had to sell it. Number six is about half done, waiting for me to have time to finish it. And I still have a few interesting original era speedster parts for maybe another two or three.

     

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    • Like 2
  13. I am sorry. But I have never gotten the idea of building a "wanna be" out of a "never was" using a few antique pieces, a bunch of decades later stuff and pieces that are nothing like the era imagined, coupled together using modern materials and methods.

    It becomes an "art piece" that will appeal to a few people that don't understand the history of the real thing.

    Faithful recreations I can very much appreciate. They fill in lost history. Well done "tribute cars" can be okay also. They allow us to get a feel for what it was like and experience first hand the thrills of the races of the day. Vehicles unlike ANYTHING from the past? Might as well drive a Volkswagen chassis Bugatti. 

     

    My apologies.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
  14. Way back when, there was an after-market accessory manifold cooker made to fit a model T Ford engine. Originals were very rare, but I read an article about them about forty years ago. Since that article, someone made reproductions of that original accessory, and sold them through the club's magazine and eventually through some of the model T parts suppliers. Someone in the club also published a small recipe book for manifold cooking.

    It has been awhile since I have seen anything about it, but for a few years, one of the club chapters in the mid-West made it a club thing to have manifold cooking tours. They swapped recipes and held potluck dinners that way. 

    Most of the cooking is done wrapped in foil, or uses some other container to minimize necessary cleaning. Cans of chili or other foods can have a single small hole punched in the top to vent and prevent messy explosions, and put in the cooker. Whatever you do, do NOT put unvented cans on or near the exhaust manifold unless you want to clean up a nasty mess!

    I have wanted to give it a try myself, but it is one of the many things I can't seem to get around to.

     

    Many years ago, I had a coworker that worked with me often, he sometimes would put his pre-prepared lunch (wrapped in foil) on the truck's manifold to cook between service calls.

  15. I just HAD to go out and look at it. The amazing thing is it only took a few minutes to find it amongst all my junk. For about fifty years, I have had a Raulang Body tag, and I knew it was an oval. Looking at it closely for the first time in a decade or two, I would say it is likely a rounder oval than the body tag on that neat looking roadster. So I would say body by Fisher and/or Fleetwood is still more likely.

    • Like 2
  16. Studebaker also drove modern hobbyists crazy in the mid to late '1910s. In 1915, in June, Studebaker introduced what they called their "1916" model cars. This particular series was only manufactured for about seven months. On December 28 1915, Studebaker introduced the next series of updated models, which had been in the manufacturing process for a couple weeks. So, NONE of the cars said to be 1916 models were actually manufactured in 1916! In January of 1917, Studebaker announced going with a "series" model designation. Which they only did for about three years.

    A lot of other manufacturers (including I have been told, Reo and Hudson) also brought out the '16 models early due to the European war.

  17. I would be curious to hear the answer to that myself. I never got to see the engine from that truck very well, just looking through the fence as it sat on the ground after being taken out of the truck. I had the impression that it was a four cylinder engine, but couldn't really tell. Later I was told it was going into a car, and that it was a six. I have always somewhat doubted that myself, but that was what I was told.

  18. You are correct on all points AHa, the "high wheel" era was sort of an anomaly in the historic line of the automobile. A fair number of very early experimental cars in the 1890s were of high wheel carriage designs. Consider the well known first cars of Haynes, Apperson, Black, and Duryea (there were literally a hundred others). Although another line of thought were built around lightweight bicycle methods and technology. Henry Ford's Quadricycle was this sort.

    For manufactured "high wheel" automobiles, the Holsman was the standout, beginning production in 1902. However, the "high wheel" era is generally thought to be from about 1907 into maybe 1912. That was when more than fifty different companies manufactured for sale a variety of high wheel models aimed at the rural America market. These were designed to be familiar and comfortable for farmers and simple to maintain and repair. The high wheel cars were well suited for the rough roads of the day outside cities, and good for light loads. Many of them did have a small area to carry boxes or produce. Some of the larger ones had removable back seats to carry more freight if desired. 

    As roads improved (more quickly than most people realize!), the need for a car especially suited for rough country roads quickly faded away.  By 1912, only a handful of companies were still selling new high wheel type automobiles.

  19. 8 hours ago, edinmass said:

    Take a WWI Pierce Arrow three ton truck, and build a car.

     

    When I was young, before high school, there was a very old brickyard that had been manufacturing red bricks for construction for many decades right alongside the field track of the high school. I would sometimes ride my bicycle over to the school, and cut through the field. Sitting there, for decades I am sure was a big old Pierce Arrow dump truck next to a '28 Chevrolet chassis. The PA truck was pretty complete, radiator and all, but in somewhat rough shape. I had dreams of saving it someday, but alas it was not to be. Along about 1966, or about when I was a sophomore on the way to school in the morning, I saw some men and a pickup with a cutting torch removing the engine from the Pierce Arrow truck. Some of the truck remained for a couple more years, but not much, and most of that disappeared. Maybe three years later, as I was getting more and more into antique automobiles, I rode my bicycle to the brickyard office and asked about the truck.  it was then that they told me what it had been and that someone paid a considerable amount of money for the engine and a few other parts of the truck. (They told me $1500, in the 1960s!) They also said the engine was going to be used in a Pierce Arrow car that had used the same engine. It was already too late for the truck, but there was no way I could have paid that kind of money at the time.

    They gave me the '28 Chevrolet chassis. My dad and I took his pickup over there, and they used their forklift to load the chassis on the back. It was in really rough shape, but I was beginning to haul parts to swap meets to sell for money to buy and repair my cars, and I made a few dollars finding good homes for most of that chassis.

     

    I often wonder what car may have gotten that engine. The two or three Pierce 66s I have seen always make me think about it.

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