beerczar1976
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Posts posted by beerczar1976
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Saw that item. Was for a pair...lost freakin' sale in what had to have been final seconds. Final price was $66.75 for pair + $7.00 shipping. Winning bidder was somebody that wasn't even bidding for them throughout the sale either...Not too happy right now! :mad:
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I FINALLY found a '50 "Special" emblem on eBay recently...payed $13 and change for it. Got it last night. Only a couple small pits on it, some of the original black paint is still in the loops of the p, e, and l. I think it'll look awesome after it gets buffed up a bit. I had no idea however how heavy and thick this emblem was going to be until I got it. I have the Dyanflow emblems for the rear quarters and they are made of much lighter and thinner material. I'm guessing they're re-pops. The Special emblem is probably almost a good 1/4" thick! The pins on the back are thick too, more rectangular shaped than the thin almost, brad type pins on the back of my "Dynaflow"s.
Let me know if someone's got another one.
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This is probably a question for only the guys with '50 Tourbacks...Maybe specific to Special owners, but those with a Super or Roadmaster could help too. I'm sure someone else has taken this project on with success and not emptied their wallet on rubber products.
I've got to replace all of my door weatherstripping. Car was painted by prior owner who stripped it, and threw out pretty much all of it. Can I get some reference pics of the various pieces? I've been doing some, rather, A LOT, of searching online to figure out what piece is what so I do have a few pics. I have the Body Manual, so I also have all of the part#s. Some are a little confusing, for example.
4584581--Right Rear Bottom
4602516--Right Rear Lower Corner
4602517--Left Bottom and Lower Corner
Why would the right door be two separate p/ns whereas on the left door, somehow, one part did both functions?
It would seem that all the pieces may no longer be available as separate components. Or in many cases, it's easier to find only one of the components (in general many places have the left door pieces), ex. 4591261--Left Rear Hinge Pillar, available at Buick Farm, but no one has the 4591260--Right Rear Hinge Pillar. I've found some of the components here and there but I think if I bought all the pieces individually, it'd end up costing more than a kit anyway. The kits aren't exactly cheap either. I've also noticed that some of the kits don't have pieces that match-up to the original either, or give you additional parts that were supposedly only needed on the Riviera or Convertible models (per the Body Manual at least).
We all know Steele Rubber is big $$, however, they also have the properly molded ends on the pieces...I'll re-check Rubber the Right Way again. Kanter lists a full door weatherstrip kit, but as their catalog states, it'll give you what components are necessary or are available...To me that may mean, it's not a 100% complete set-up.
Here's my full shopping list.
4581162--Front Right Bottom--Steele Rubber
4581163--Front Left Bottom--Steele Rubber
4584555--Front Right Top & Upper Lock Pillar--Steele Rubber, Collectors Auto Supply
4584556--Front Left Top & Upper Lock Pillar--Steele Rubber, Collectors Auto Supply
4592308--Front Right Body Hinge Pillar, Lower, at Sill Plate--no source yet
4592309--Front Left Body Hinge Pillar, Lower, at Sill Plate--Buick Farm
4584474--Front Body Hinge Pillar Sealing Strip (Bellows)--Steele Rubber, Collectors Auto Supply, Buick Farm
4584581--Rear Right Bottom--National Impala Parts
4591260--Rear Right Hinge Pillar--Steele Rubber
4591261--Rear Left Hinge Pillar--Steele Rubber, Collectors Auto Supply, oldbuickparts.com
4600576--Rear Right Top & Lock Pillar--no source yet
4600577--Rear Left Top & Lock Pillar--no source yet
4602516--Rear Right Lower Corner--no source yet
4602517--Rear Left Bottom & Lower Corner--Collectors Auto Supply, Buick Farm
Am I being overly detailed in this? I've got a driver quality car, so maybe wracking by brain on this is too much effort? What have you guys done on your cars? Thanks!
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Well guys, here we are at about 2 months from the dip process beginning. Bad news. Most of surface rust and lots of crud came off but flapper shaft was still stuck. Tried rotating the shaft by deadblows to the counterweight. Still no go, only ended up bending the arm that the counterweight is on. Also tried light hammering to the shaft itself as well. The flapper did end up moving, but broke free from the shaft. Flapper can now be easily pivoted to open or closed.
I guess the best bet is either spot weld the flap in the open position and use in that configuration, cut the flapper and shaft assembly out entirely, or use it eventually for a core turn-in. The valve I have on my car is stuck open, or at least best I can tell. I may also swap this altered one, welded into the fully open position, for my current one that is a little questionable. The dipped one did flash rust pretty quickly, but another shorter term dipping and a go over with a wire brush will take care of that. I had high-temp manifold paint ready to go, but didn't bother once I couldn't free up the shaft.
Thoughts?
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Thanks for the link. After doing some further cross-referencing, I may hold off. I believe I've read that +/- 3% diameter difference is "acceptable". A 7.6 down to a 6.7 comes in at around just over 4% difference. The width is almost a 9% difference. Difference in speedo. is only about 2.7 MPH @ 65 MPH. Considering my speedo. isn't even working right now, and even on a working one, that's probably negligible. I think if these were one size larger, a 7.1, I may have been good to go.
I found a REALLY cool tire calculator that not only does all the math, but it also graphically shows you the difference in size. Here's the link to the diff. between 7.6 and 6.7.
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I saw a set of 6.7 x 15 radial white walls listed recently on c'list. Really good price and looked to be pretty new...seller went to a different size. These were on a 50s Chevy at some point. My '50 Special originally sat on 7.6 x 15s. As I'm not really into tire's all that much, anyone got an idea if these are worth looking at? I know they're not "stock", but car's not a show car either. Mostly interested in safety and ride aspects of "down-sizing". I'm guessing there'd also be an offset to the speedo/odo. A few mph wouldn't be a huge deal, but if it would be off significantly, then that's another story. My bro. was thinking that these would end up lowering car about 1"-2" without a sacrifice to ride/safety. He knows tires a little better than I do.
Thanks!
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My mistake, I actually found paint info. also on this site. http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/ You are correct, for 1955, their sheet doesn't list interior colors either. For 1950 they show a "supplemental bulletin" page that shows some updates as well as listing the interior colors. http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1953-Buick-pg04.jpg 1950 Interior Colors were supposedly Light Gray Poly and Dark Gray Poly. Numbers are too fuzzy to read. They're listing a 30611 Dark Gray Poly for 1951 along with a Medium Gray Poly. I went thru picking each year; 1959 is the next year that they show an interior paint color page. The link I gave above lists Interior colors to '53. Paul, would they have used the same interior colors thru 55?
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Prior owner repainted select interior window trim pieces. Haven't held them side by side to dash, which I think is original paint. I'd like to finish painting the other pieces he didn't do. I found on a paint site (paintref.com) that the original trim color was perhaps called "Dark Gray Poly". I couldn't quite make out the Ditzler color they showed on a chart...DL 30611 or DL 30811? The center digit is the questionable one. However, when I ran both of these numbers thru the internet, neither come out as existing or as Dark Gray Poly. I did see that Cloudmist Gray Poly DAL 30868, a 1951 exterior color, does seem to look about right...My '50 is one of the late production ones where some of the components were using the new '51 components so the '51 color could make sense. The 30868 comes up as a valid "purchasable" color. Shadetree had suggested I use Dupli-Color's Gunmetal Gray at one point. Still hadn't gotten around to it, but before I purchased was looking for more insight. I guess other option might be to bring in a piece of trim to a paint shop and have them run it thru their meter to match the paint. Could be better option as at least everything would match. Thoughts?
Still looking for front bumper guards and rear window lower reveal molding escutcheon!!
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I know most of you guys probably aren't parting anything out right now as winter is the put it back together months, but, I'm looking for the following in approx. priority...
"Special" script for front qtr. panels. Looks like the same cursive style from the '57 emblems just without the circle behind it.
Oil-bath air cleaner bolt. As a 2nd, 3rd, or 4th owner, bolt that holds the assembly together got lost somewhere along the line. I'd think the same bolt was used on multiple years, multiple bodies. Approx. 8" long from bottom of bath to top of silencer housing. Original is probably 9" or so when given room to thread on wingnut.
Front Bumper Guards. These are probably wishful thinking and/or huge money. However if someone's got either one in re-plateable or at least paintable condition, let me know. Mine are pretty gnarly, one's completed folded in like it took a hit to another car or something. I think I'm good with replacement turn signals/housings for the guards.
Rear 3-piece Window Lower Center Escutcheon. Looking at a probably 1"x1" trim piece. Creates an overlap at the bottom of the rear-window on the reveal molding where the left side and right side meet. Same concept as what was used on the bottom of windshield. For whatever reason, GM chose to form the overlap portion into the belt molding as part of the left or right hand side piece. Reveal molding, it was a separate component.
Headlight/Map/Dash light switch. This is the 2 stage pull switch with the turnable rheostat to dim interior lights. Must be off of a late build '50 or later. Early '50 builds had a separate Map Light switch. I haven't fiddled with mine all that much yet, might just need a good cleaning, but having a working extra would be great.
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Thanks for all the tips guys. I'm pulling the trigger on new wheel cylinders (all 4 wheels) left rear is leaking for sure, new hoses, and a new brake light switch from Rock Auto. They were quite a bit cheaper, even compared to NAPA. I'll get Raybestos components unless I hear from you guys that other brands are better. Since my current brakes aren't holding pressure right now, the brake light issue may go away once new cylinders are put in and the lines bled, but for $5-$6, I'll have an extra. I'll have someone look at my master cylinder, shoes and drums before I do anything on those. When I did have brake pressure, as minimal as it was, the car was stopping, so the MC and shoes/drums might still be good. I'll also have them look at the hard lines. Will either make myself, or order some from Inline Tube which didn't seem all that expensive, though I've heard mixed results on the correct lengths and bends from them on this forum from time to time. Any other thoughts? Since mine's a '50 I made sure to verify my frame number as I know Buick changed the rear wheel cylinders mid-production to a different inlet size used onward thru 54.
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Just remembered to measure...Looking like 8" or so.
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John! Thanks. I'll put the pieces together and then try to guesstimate the overall length and let you know sometime tomorrow. If you've got the nut that goes on the top, I'll take that too, but I think that should only be a wing nut anyway.
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Anybody have an extra or know a source for the long bolt that holds the air cleaner oil pan, filter element, and silencer together on a '50? Looks almost like the battery retainer bolt. I have no idea where mine is. As you know, still re-assembling my boxes of parts to get my Special Deluxe back on the road.
Thanks!
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Bob, Sorry to hear that. I think the assembly plants in some cases might have done "their own thing", and perhaps all the '53s are riveted... I've also seen where the fuzzies along the molding at the bottom of the window frame were stapled by some factories, and screwed in by other factories. I'm still trying to re-align my front window vents after putting them back into the car. (Prior owner(s) disassembled to paint, but gave up on project). I think the key with my front vents is that I haven't tried putting the wind/rain deflectors back in, these may take up some of the gap problems that I have right now. These pieces weren't repainted so they are the original Geneva Green whereas my '50's now a deep red pearl color.
Good luck! I'm willing to help as much as I can. I think in many cases the '50-'53 4-doors, maybe with the exception of the Riviera series, were relatively still the same car. I've also got the Chassis and Body Parts Manuals, so if you're looking for a cross-reference to a piece down the road, let me know.
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Again, this is all based off of a '50 Special, but I'm thinking the process should be pretty close for yours.
If I remember correctly, then no, you shouldn't have to remove the glass from the door, just lower it all the way. Mine was 3 pieces. One for the top and separate front and rear sides. Once you take the inside door window trim off (should be just the part that surrounds the window, and not the whole lower door panel), you should be able to pull the old fuzzy channel out of the "track"/channel that it sits in. Where yours in one piece, you'll probably want to do so carefully so that you can copy the bend locations of the old piece, though the fuzzy channel does bend pretty easy. The clips that hold the fuzzy channel into the door frame will probably be salvageable unless rusted away. Mine were almost a modified S shaped and had prongs that stuck into the backside of the fuzzy channel. I wasn't able to find exact replacements but Rubber the Right Way, and I think Bob's or CARS, sells some that will do the job. I also didn't worry too much about jamming the prongs back through the channel or re-cementing the fuzzy channel back into the front/rear door channels. It all seems to hold itself together pretty well, and as long as your glass doesn't bind in the fuzzy, it shouldn't end up moving from where you put it.
If you find that the fuzzy channel is in too tightly to the metal tracks at the bottom ends of the front and rear sides to pull out from between the channel and glass, then remove the lower door panel. You should then be able to see where the door channel goes down inside the door and it will have an adjustment bolt at the bottom that will have a nut on the end of it. Loosen the nut, and the door channel should then be able to move left and right, and in and out. You might want to mark the location/setting of how the nut was originally on there so you don't have to do to much re-aligning after you put the new fuzzies in place.
If you're still stuck, let me know and I can e-mail you a scan from the '49 Fisher Body Manual (I believe the Body Manual wasn't produced again until the mid-fifties). If I remember correctly, the Shop Manual may detail the procedure as well.
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I believe if you are referring just to the "fuzzie" line track around the sides and top...not necessarily. If you are referring to the metal channel that holds the "fuzzies" on the front and rear side of the glass, then yes, it makes it easier... I guess it depends on exactly which part you're referring to. I re-did all my 4 doors over the summer on a '50 Special Deluxe.
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I'm thinking of re-doing my brakes in the spring. Not sure if I need new hard lines yet, but I will probably replace the wheel cylinders (left rear I'm pretty positive is leaking), shoes, hardware, maybe the master cylinder, hoses, etc. I haven't done a full inspection as to what's needed yet (maybe it's none of the above, could just need a good bleeding and tightening of components). With that being said...
Here's the question. Kanter sells a deluxe rebuild kit for $425 that includes all of the above parts. Bob's and Fusick sell the same parts separately for at least $100 in total more. I'm sure CARS probably does too. Anyone have preference of vendor? Quality any different? Is one selling new vs. rebuilt? I'd bound to guess all are rebuilds with the exception of maybe the wheel cylinders. I'm thinking NOS on some of these components (with the exception of maybe drums) in this particular case is not the way to go.
Maybe I'll luck out and need none of the parts, but it's good to know if I'm getting quality for what I'm paying for. I know I already have to buy a full door perimeter weatherstrip kit. Kanter is the only one who appears to have a kit for a '50 41D.
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Molasses and water dip, 9 water:1 molasses ratio, started today. Sorry I didn't take a pic., but I'm sure everyone knows what a crusty heat riser valve looks like!
The 9:1 ratio was found on the above posted link from YouTube. I'm hoping it works. All that I could think of was a nice hot bowl of B&M Boston Baked Beans. Mixture looks pretty much like flat Coca-Cola. I used hot water so that the molasses would melt and mix in instead of remaining a sludge coat at the bottom of the bucket. Oh yeah, by the way, apparently most places sell more bucket lids than buckets as Tractor Supply and Aubochon had plenty of buckets without lids, and those that are supposed to match up to a lid, that size of lid was out. Used plastic wrap held on to the bucket with painters tape. I was hoping to keep my science project up here in the warm house, but I think the wife wouldn't like that soo much. Down to the basement it goes; unfortunately not heated, so this may slow the process. I may try to bring it up overnight and leave it in the kitchen sink, putting it back down when the kitchen's in use. -
Quick update. Bought a gallon of molasses at Tractor Supply today; $9.99. Will hopefully begin the dip and wait process tonight. Just need to find a bucket or small tub with lid. While at TS I also noticed they sell WD-40 Professional Rust Removal Soak. Came in about a 1/2 gallon size. Looked more like for surface rust removal, though did list uses for auto restoration and farm equipment cleaning... Could be worth a try if the molasses soak doesn't work. Have all winter, plus as I said, this one's a spare.
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Sounds like I have some good leads. As I'm cheap.
I'll price out the molasses vs. the Must for Rust stuff. They both sound like good options. I guess it's good to have a spare to "play" with before going all in. Worst comes to worst, I think I saw new ones with and without flappers thru Bob's or maybe Fusick (big $ in either case though)... I will make sure to report back soon with whichever approach I take! -
Has anyone ever had luck unsticking a stuck manifold heat riser valve? I know the pros and cons of having it work or not. The one on my car is stuck open, so I'm a little less worried about it for now and the car will soon be getting garaged for the winter. However, I do have a spare that I'm trying to un-stick. If successful, I'd like to eventually swap it out with my current stuck open one... I have no idea how long this baby's been in the stuck closed position, could be a few years to 50+ years. Judging by the amount of rust and crud on the outside of the body of the valve itself, it's probably been a while since it was last used.
Thoughts? Already tried PB Blaster, WD-40, and currently trying Carb/Choke Cleaner. I've gotten all of the crud out from between the butterfly and the inside of the valve, absolutely no luck in budging the shaft whatsoever though. There doesn't really seem to be a way to work any type of penetrating fluid or the suggested graphite in and around the shaft if it won't turn in the first place...
Am I looking at a lost cause and a cool paper weight?
Thanks!
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Bob, Thanks. My cars getting put up for the winter in a few days so this will be one to check out in the spring. Will make sure both rear tires are aired up the same and then bust out the old measuring stick. I'm thinking these are the original springs still on the car, so you've got to figure that they'll start to give out some time or another.
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As viewed from the rear, my '50 Special has a bit of a sag to the driver's side. Would this be a spring or shock issue? I'm reading thru the Shop Manual for some recommendations, both fixes seem to be not all that hard...Replace the spring, or check the fluid level in the shock. If fluid is low, I'm not really sure this would solve the sagging, it probably affects ride quality more than anything, so reasoning would be that the spring may be on it's way out. Shop Manual does list some specs. for what the spring should measure at, so it could be worth checking before jumping on purchasing any parts.
Thoughts?
Found one '50 "Special" quarter panel emblem...looking for one more
in Buick - Post War
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I checked Bob's, well at least they're catalog and website...I would think if he's got them in-stock, he'd list them. Who knows. Waiting for tax refund anyway. Brakes are #1 priority probably followed by door weatherstrips after that.