Eric W
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Posts posted by Eric W
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Eric' date='
Just saw your posts on the defroster core removal, it helps me a lot...to say nothing of your discussion of the heater/defroster knobs. Thank you sir!
Dale in Kentucky[/quote']
Glad it helps you, Dale. They don't really speak to how the dash controls work in the shop manual, but I guess I'll probably spring for a reprint of the "owner's guide" for ~$18 + shipping at some point... Anyone have a scan of this, just for the instructional information? Not that there's a lot left that I haven't figured out...
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It is called a 'crescent wrench'.
Yes, that'll do it. I just have to get one that goes that far...
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Moving along... Got the brake master out a couple of days ago. Worked on getting the fill cap and output ports off, but no good so far. The pressure end has a 1.325" hex - what wrench is that? Anyway, I ordered a "new production" master cylinder from CARS, Inc. through their eBay sales. They have these "on sale" via eBay for ~$50 off for the next 2 days or so. Lower cost than rebuild through Kanter at this point...
There seem to be a lot of these catalog items from our favorite restoration suppliers on eBay these days - when today's sale expires, they get relisted (maybe)... When I bought the hood release cables a while back from Bob's, they were listed as "10 available, 9 sold", and when I bought the 10th one, the listing almost instantly reappeared as "10 available" again... Bob's is currently featuring the "u-turn" heater hose between the defroster and the port on the firewall - discounted price, but you again pay the freight on them including their hardcopy catalog in the package...
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Adam - that's the story I pieced together from the bids. It would have been interesting to see what that car could have been in your hands.
Impressive to me how much more money this car brought relative to another one I had posted on here recently - sure, some of that is condition and possibly desirability of the particular year/model, but a lot of that was per a recommendation I saw in someone else's posting on another car - drag it out of the dirt & put air in the tires...
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Sold for $2700.
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Another '51 - this one's starting to be picked over - would take a lot to bring it back, but may have some good parts. Looks like the powertrain is still there... Morrisdale, PA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141141624244
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Manual trans, and this guy knows how to prep a car for auction! Pulled it out of the muck and put air in the tires and everything!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251400895832
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Thanks Pete! Glad to hear someone's able to save this one...
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I don't know if this one itself is worth saving, but that's a very complete parts car, at least. As Ben pointed out, just sell a couple of things, and the rest is to the plus side (for the next rescue project, or whatever).
-Bumpers
-Front bumper "bullets"
-The bunch of stainless parts
-The engine - complete or in pieces...
-The glass (if it's good)
-Instruments
-Dash center / radio
-Seats (regardless of upholstery/not)
-Anything in the trunk - jack/spare/hubcaps
-Vintage rims
-Frame suspension might go w/ a better body...
If it goes that path, then get weight value for the remainder.
Or...
Someone pulls it out and finds it's either not so bad or what badness there is, they can handle (or have handled).
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Thanks - I have another idea for the holes to minimize them even more. There were 5 caps in the lot - maybe try it out on the "spare" first. This was an eBay lot, so I have no idea of the history, and I don't think the seller did either. I was thinking clock because it's 3 holes - 1 for the drive to pass through, 2 more to secure the clock-works. It could have simply been some sort of add-on to hide the Buick origins...
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Here's the listing:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281221827051
In the "Antiques / Other" category...
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This one has been relisted under a new auction. Same price, $400.
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Holding off on the front seat for now, here's a quick little project that added a lot to the hubcaps. These were pretty low cost, as the "extra" holes in the middle may have been from someone's "clock" project or something.
Having the color on there takes some attention away from the extra holes. These photos aren't all the same hubcap. 3 of 4 I did the red first. First one I did, I did the blue first. Didn't seem to be easier/harder either way. Once I got the first one done, I had the red on the brush so just kept going. I did 2 one day, 2 the next, so as to not get too tired (both hand and eye) in one sitting. It's actually pretty hard to see while doing this, as the hubcap dish shape reflects the work light into my eyes - the same lights that I needed bright to see where the paint was going...
The one other emblem like this that needs the color repainted is on the trunk lid. It's about the same width as these, but about half as high - I think I'll look for a smaller brush...
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Added mine...
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Your photo with the engine number shows a clamp on the breather line about where the fuel line comes over from the frame. We had some discussion on this clamp in my '51 thread. I'd be curious if the clamp on your car's breather tube is actually attached to anything underneath. On other cars, this clamp has been positioned where the breather tube comes off the engine to secure that end. Is there any clamp on the breather tube at the front/top end?
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I showed them to my kids - my son says "that's what I see". My daughter says "I never get to see the steering wheel". Doesn't matter what car, they always have to sit in the same places...
Great videos, Eric.It has been so long since riding in the back seat, I have forgotten the view. Different from drivers view.
Ben
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GoPro Hero2 with an external mic between the stereo speakers. You can see the shadow on the back seat after I turn left onto the main road towards the beginning of the longer video. I put it on "spot metering", so it would set to the brightness of what's outside. The video I did back in April, I didn't know about that setting, so that one looks more like driving on the Sun.
I love the video's What camera are you using? Mud -
Been a while since I stuck the camera in the car:
and
- tried to get a couple of corners in this one. Car doesn't roll much at all. -
Looks quite similar to the one I'm working on... Not much time remaining, but if it's expired/unsold, maybe contact the seller and see if it's still available...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281212682304
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Been a little while. I have pulled 3 of the 4 brake drums. Need a 4th jack stand - have parts of it, but can't set the car on "parts" of a jack stand. Something got lost along the way. Brakes look pretty good, but I still plan to change out the wheel cylinders & hoses + rebuild the master.
Also started pulling the front seat in order to see what the front floor looks like. Anyone have the trick to getting the back of the front seat off? I have the robe cord off, and the book seems to indicate this will uncover additional fastener(s), but I can't see anything. I'd like to separate the back from the bottom - not even sure the whole seat would fit out the door with back & bottom together.
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Don't know what year they changed over, but the '51 manual also has some body information in it - how to pull front seat, door latches, etc. Somewhere in the few years after that, the body stuff was pulled out of the shop manual, so the later shop manuals are what makes it go/stop/turn... The shop manual is very detailed - sometimes it's too much text & not enough pictures, but it's a heck of a lot better than trying to figure out what's buried under all that grease & dirt... Good luck w/ your project...
I'm also working on a '51 & a driver '55.
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Found something close. One of these might even be the radiator in the photo above.
http://wizardcooling.com/buick
Though they say the "1950 Buick Street Rod Custom Al Radiator" is for replacement of original 6-cylinder radiator. I'm guessing what they really made here was the standard-trans size of radiator. And the other one, with the wider core, is for "replacement of original V8 radiator". And they list this one as for "Manual" "No transmission cooler", or with a "built in transmission cooler" option for additional cost.
Though if you're going to make a custom-designed radiator, why not retain the original inlet/outlet configuration? Looks like they have the inlet too far over to the left, the outlet should be an elbow, and the fill cap should be offset to the right. With those things done right, paint it black, and it would blend right in...
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Looks really nice! Your question about brakes - get the factory shop manual. Various vendors sell it scanned to .pdf on CD, and there's usually quite a few originals on eBay or Amazon. I've got the hardcopy for my '51, and it's nice to just look through. I've got the .pdf for my '55, and unless you know what you're looking for, it's not so easy to just flip through - but it's nice to print just a page or two that you want to take into the garage. The brake specs are in there. Though by now maybe you pulled the front wheels off & measured...
I see several originals on ebay - search "1949 Buick shop manual" - one for $19.95, another for $25. (And quite a few others at dreamer prices) Scanned to CD for about $30.
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Jamco Suspension has kitted up essentially what Scarebird was providing the key brackets for:
http://jamcosuspension.com/products/sfID1/33/sfID2/42/sfID3/35
$735 as I post this - includes rotors, bearings, calipers, caliper brackets, lines, pads, hardware - basically disk brakes & lines back to the frame on the stock Buick spindles (or drop spindles, bought separately). Drilled/slotted rotors +$80.
1949 Super Sedanette Survivor
in Me and My Buick
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Congrats on your test drive! The dash lights on my '55 re-activated on their own last week (woohoo!) after numerous weekly drives to the cruise night where the drive home is always lights-on - so some cycling of the switch might bring those back. Also try twisting the knob to run the brightness rheostat (if your '49 has that) through some cycles. Dash lights - mmm it was sweet to see those without doing any extra work...