Mr. Anderson
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Posts posted by Mr. Anderson
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Finally got time to check the door jam switch. I found that the switch is working properly, so it looks like I will be pulling the passenger seat and carpet to fix the wire splices.
Thanks for the help and troubleshooting thus far!
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Ok, thanks for the information.
I'll get right on the testing and get back to you soon. -
Mc, the courtesy lights do not come on when the door is open, and yes, somewhere around here I have a voltmeter.
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The door jamb switch issue definitely affects the alarm problem as it is needed to set the alarm. The handle switches affect the courtesy lights so that's a separate problem.
That explains why I don't have any courtesy lights either!! :eek: But anyways, is this fixed through the wire splices under the seat or do I need to find a replacement switch?
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Mc Reatta, thank you for the link to the test! I was able to do the test earlier this afternoon, and found that BI05 and BI06 both read 'Hi' no matter what I did to the door. I think this is the door jam switch and door handle. I did the same test for the pass. side with no change in results. Where should I go from here?
Also, thanks for the input so far!
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I have the same problem alarm will not work checked the in line fuse its good. The only time the security light comes on is for 2 seconds when I turn the key on. Bill
Bill, mine also does this. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to do much work on this due to a bad alternator and ground issues, among other problems.
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Well, after a few days with the new (new to me) reatta, the fix-it list keeps on growing. My issue is about the anti-theft system. As of right now, the system doesn't work. All that I ever see of the security light is a slight flash when I lock the doors. I've tried to set off the alarm, but I have not been successful in setting it off. Is there anything I can check before I end up tearing this car apart looking for answers? Thanks in advance!
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Thanks Ronnie! I actually bought one last night from the reatta store, so hopefully that'll be here in a few days. The car also needs a full brake job, as in rotors and calipers (at least the fronts do, they stick).
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Thanks! It's good to be back! I'm thinking that I might have the same problem that you have, but thankfully I don't have the money for more than one right now.
Hopefully the weather stays nice for a while. After changing the accumulator, it'll be good to go!
Well, as long as it doesn't rain...the weatherstripping is toast, and Im working on getting some indoor storage. -
Well, after a few months of being without a reatta, one finally popped up for the right price, and I went and jumped on it. I am the proud owner of a 1990 Red on Tan Convertible!
It's a little rough around the edges, but I am really happy to own and work on this one. 
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Tom, PM sent.
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Me too.
Yes, and thank you Ronnie for the help info as well. I apologize for not giving you proper credit earlier. My fault.
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No problem, happy I was able to help!
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Your climate control rod may be at fault here. It is a rod that connects to the mix doors for heat and a/c. It is located behind the glove box.
I believe this link here will help. Although it is for the opposite situation, I believe the application is the same. Good luck.
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If it was $3K, then it would already be sold and sitting in my driveway!
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According to the page, the last six of the vin is 907890. The database says this is Claret Red on Burgundy with a White Top. This looks like a good buy, hopefully someone will check this out...
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I think the pictures may have been uploaded backwards. If you look closer at the steering wheel, you can barely see that the 'R' script is reversed.
Here is the eBay link.
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The car has been SOLD!
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First off, welcome to the forum, and to the wonderful world of the reatta! Now for some help. I am not an expert by any means, but hopefully I can help you with some of these things.
Starting with the stalling problem, code E041, as you know, is the Cam sensor code, and like you said, the magnet has probably deteriorated or fallen out. This sensor is used to aid in the sequential fuel injection process, and without the signal from the sensor or magnet, the ECM will randomly fire the injectors, and can result in a rough idle and stalling. Another issue related to stalling could be a gummed up IAC (idle air control) valve, which is located underneath the throttle body and mass air flow sensor housing. The IAC can be viewed in diagnostic mode as ED22.
This is an unbelievably helpful resource for these cars: http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/57-diagnostic-information/diagnostic-instructions/56-diagnostics-instructions-page-1#pg-1
Now, for the E044 code. You are correct, this is a lean exhaust signal, or high O2 in exhaust. This also means that the O2 sensor is constantly showing low voltage. This voltage can be viewed in diagnostic mode as ED07. If it is constantly low, you may need to replace the sensor.
As far as the engine temp goes, these engines were designed to run at higher temps, so these numbers are not so out of the norm. Were these numbers from mainly stop-and-go traffic? If so, then that could be the cause, but it wouldn't hurt to check the fans and thermostat reading.
The Anti-Lock light coming on under braking conditions could be a sign of a weak or failing accumulator. I would take the brake tests, found here, to determine additional troubleshooting.
B448 is a very low A/C refrigerant pressure condition. This code will disengage the A/C clutch until the code is fixed. I know very little about this issue, but surely others can chime in on it.
That's about all that I can think of. Good luck with everything! Hopefully others will comment and aid you with these repairs.
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It pains me to do so, but the time has come to part with my 89 Reatta. I love it to death, but I am in search of other car projects, and I feel like I have got this one pretty close to perfect. I also need some space for an old Mercedes in dire need of attention. I was going to post to eBay, but I thought that everybody on here should have a first look, since you all helped me do a lot of the work (and of which I am deeply thankful for.)
Now, about the car...
Year:___1989____
Coupe: __Y__ Conv:____
Mileage:___83,4xx_______
Considered Correct? (Y/N) Y
Location:_________Weaverville, NC_________
VIN:______1G4EC11C4KB900771 __________
Title: Clear_Y__ Salvage____ Other___
Any Accident History? (Y/N) NO
Asking Price: $ 5500 obo
Willing to take trade (Y/N) NO
Exterior Color: Light Green
Interior Color: Tan
Paint Original? (Y/N) NO
Paint Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Excellent
Belt & Bumper Molding Color: (Black/Body Color) Black
Body Dents: (Y/N) NO
Body Rust: (Y/N) NO
Windshield Chipped or Cracked? (Y/N) NO
Vent Glass Intact? (Y/N) YES
Rubber surround molding for windshield condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
(Coupe only) Rubber surround molding for rear window condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
Out Side Mirrors Intact? (Y/N) YES
Headlight Motors Function Correctly? (Y/N) YES, Rebuilt
Tail Light Lens: (Clear/Cloudy/Cracked) Clear
(Convertable only)
Convertable Top Material: (Vinyl or Cloth)
Convertable Top Color?
Convertable Top Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor)
Please describe any flaws or problems with the convertible top.
Interior Original? (Y/N) NO, new carpet
16 Way Seats? (Y/N) YES
Works (Y/N) YES
Suede bolsters? (88 only) (Y/N) NO
Seat Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
Drivers interior door panel condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Excellent
Passengers interior door panel condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good, there is one little place where the panel is cracked
Center console top armrest condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Excellent
Door weather stripping condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Excellent
Headliner Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good, no drooping, but some spots near the rear window are cosmetically imperfect
Carpet Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Excellent
Original Floor Mats: (Y/N) YES
Floor Mat Condition: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
Condition of Steering Wheel Leather: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
Sun Roof? (Y/N) NO
Works? (Y/N) N/A
Functional Keyless Entry? (Y/N) YES
Both Remotes? (Y/N) NO, aftermarket remote
Problems with Electronic Dash items? (Y/N) NO
Power Windows Work Correctly? (Y/N) YES
Power Seats Work Correctly? (Y/N) YES
Power Door Locks Work Correctly? (Y/N) YES
Power Antenna Work Correctly? (Y/N) NO, motor runs, but mast is broken and will not raise
Original Sound System? (Y/N) YES
Factory CD Player? (90-91 only) (Y/N) NO
Sound System Fully Functional? (Y/N) Sort-of: tape deck was rebuilt, but the back speakers make noise, radio OK.
Aftermarket Sound System Equipment? (Y/N) NO
If Y describe: N/A
A/C Functional? (Y/N) YES
Has the A/C been converted from R12 to R134A? (Y/N) NO
Does the suspension require any attention? (Y/N) NO
Tire Brand: Michelin
Remaining Tread: 75%
Are All Tires Matched? (Y/N) YES
Factory Wheels? (Y/N) YES
Factory Wheel Center Caps Condition: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
Missing Caps? 0
Any Brake Components Replaced? (Y/N) NO
Last Time Brake System Was Flushed? Don’t know
Original Engine? (Y/N) YES
Original Engine Rebuilt? (Y/N) NO
Does Engine require attention? (Y/N) NO
When was last tune up? Don’t know
Does the engine, cooling system, power steering, or brake system leak any fluids? (Y/N) NO
How often do you change the oil? Every 3000 miles/6 months, whichever comes first
Original Transmission? (Y/N) YES
Original Transmission Rebuilt? (Y/N) NO
Does Transmission require attention? (Y/N) NO
When was last Transmission Service? Transmission flushed and new filter installed June 2013
Any Transmission Leaks? (Y/N) NO
Have CV joints been replaced? (Y/N) NO
I have (all/most/some/no) receipts for this vehicle's service history. Most
Does the car have the owners manual portfolio? Yes, but no pen
For 90/91 Reattas only, does the owners manual portfolio contain:
Craftsmen’s Log (Y/N)
Tire gauge (Y/N)
Flashlight (Y/N)
Buick Road Atlas (Y/N)
In General, What items need attention? A few cosmetic issues, but nothing major.
My Reatta Drives: Excellent
I am the ___5th___owner of this Reatta.
I have owned this Reatta for ____ Years and/or __11__ Months.
Contact Brett (me) at 828-777-5010 or email me at
Multiple pictures of the car can be found here, but I will post a few.
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Alright guys, good news! I was able to repair the sensor leads!
Now for what I did, with some pictures...
So, this is what I started with on the front passenger side. The section where the braided wire was exposed was where the main trouble was located. I ended up removing the sensor and cleaning the magnet area (very dirty) and tested continuity with an ohmmeter. I received no reading from the meter. What I ended up doing was removing the insulation around the damaged wires and crimping the wires together like a twist-tie, and then covered the area with what was left of the braided insulation. After that, I sealed everything with liquid tape and covered with heat shrink and electrical tape. (The 2nd pic is the finished product) I also covered any other exposed areas with electrical tape. When it was all said and done, I rechecked with an ohmmeter. It showed roughly 1100 ohms.
As for the one on the front drivers side, it looked identical to the one on the passenger side (pic 1). However, when I checked with an ohmmeter, it read around 1100 ohms.
I covered all exposed areas with electrical tape and covered the larger area with liquid tape, heat shrink, and electrical tape, just like the other sensor.After everything was hooked back up, I started the car, and after the normal test that the ABS does, the light went out and stayed out!!
I took it for a drive, and everything worked perfectly. Hopefully this will be a fix that lasts for a long time! -
Thanks for all of the information everyone!
I do know that on the passenger side, the cable has been chewed on right below where it loops above the axel. I tried to mark it on this image from the FSM. I think it is fixable, but I haven't taken the sensor out to observe it yet.
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Thanks!
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Recently, I had some time to look at the front ABS leads. (My ABS light has been on for some time, but I knew the front sensors were throwing codes, and I haven't got around to looking at them.) Upon looking at the leads, I discovered that the furry woodland creatures of my house had been chewing on the insulation, and through some of the wires.
I'm probably beating a dead horse here, but what are some ways that I can repair the sensor leads without having to go buy some new ones?
I will try and get a picture of the damaged leads up tomorrow when I'm back at the car.
It's a little rough around the edges, but I am really happy to own and work on this one. 
Brake Issues
in Buick Reatta
Posted
So recently I have decided to get my brakes straightened out, which involved a new accumulator, new front calipers and pads, and a new rotor.
The accumulator job worked great, and made a huge difference. (Thanks to Ronnie and The Reatta Store for the part!)
Here's where it get interesting... I installed new front calipers and a new passenger-side rotor, and the brake pedal now travels all the way to the floor. I know that the pedal isn't supposed to (or shouldn't) go to the floor upon application. The car drives fine, but I basically have to stand on the brake pedal to slow down the car. I've also bled the fronts twice now and had very little change in pedal feel.
So my question is, what is going on here? Is the pump not building pressure for some odd reason? Thanks in advance.