40mopar

Thanks very much for the info. Sounds like I might have a bigger problem than I expected. Just got this car, so don't have any parts books or manuals yet. Initial inspections, unfortunately done after the sale, indicate a sledge-hammer mechanic has made several modifications, so who knows what I have. I'll look for an engine number and try to post a few photos in a day or two. Again, thanks for the help

Nope. Mine is 15 inches in overall length, 13 inches of which goes into the pan tube. Fill mark is 1-1/4' from tip. Markings say "ADD OIL" and "FULL". Has a number: 1326043.

Looking for a serviceable, stock fuel tank for a 1936 Buick Century 4-door sedan. Thanks

Looking for a driver's side door latch assembly for a 1940 Dodge Business Coupe. Part number 849095. Thanks

Just picked up a 1936 Buick Century with the 320 CID engine. Can someone tell me the correct length for the oil dip stick? Looks like mine has been repaired and I want to make sure it's the correct length. Thanks

Haven't checked anything yet, but throw out bearing sounds like a possible culprit. Thanks

The owner's manuals for all of my old cars recommend pushing in the clutch pedal when starting the engine. Supposedly this takes some load off the starter since the transmission gears are not turning. Actually, I have always started manual transmission cars this way. Just seems natural. But my 1938 Pontiac six cylinder presents a strange situation. If I try to start it with the clutch pedal depressed and the gear shift in neutral, the starter struggles. It turns the engine over, but takes a bit of cranking. If I let out the clutch pedal, there is a marked increase in engine turn-over speed and the engine starts more easily. Once started and warmed up, when the car is ideling in neutral, if I push in the clutch pedal, there is a definite load placed on the engine. What's going on? I might add that when I put the trans in 1st gear and slowly let out the clutch to move, there is major shudder/chatter. Any help would be greaqtly appreciated. Thanks

I recently acquired a 1949 B1B pickup. Not much room in the cab for tools, parts, etc., so I'd like to put some kind of tool box in the bed. Looking for ideas that would be consistent with what guys did in the 40's/50's. Thanks

Where can I find detailed instructions for replacing the shackle bushings on a 1935 Ford Coupe. I have a spring spreader and it looks fairly straight forward, but I'd feel a lot better with some instructions and tips from someone who's done it. Thanks

Joe, I doubt they would be a direct fit, but might work with some modification. Could you send some dimensions and maybe photos? Where are you located with regard to shipping/pickup? Thanks

Looking for a pair of new or used running boards for a 1940 Dodge Business Coupe. Also need the brackets. Thanks

Don't bother.

Looking for 1 or 2 sun visor brackets for a 1940 Dodge. Prefer NOS. Thanks

My parts book says 1938 D8

Looking for a pair of rear fender gravel guards for a 1940 Dodge coupe. Thanks

I need an adapter that will allow mounting an air cleaner intended for a smooth top carburetor onto a carburetor with a lip on the air horn. Thanks

I'm looking for 1 or 2 Gear Shift Selector Ball Springs for a 1940 Dodge transmission. MOPAR Part Number: 852633. Thanks

I just finished refurbishing the heater for an early 40's Mopar. It's the vintage Mopar Deluxe 6v heater. After installing in the car, it appeared that the fan was turning in the wrong direction. I assumed that all I needed to do was reverse the wires to correct the problem. It didn't work. No matter how I connect the wiring, the motor always turns in the same direction. I have two spare motors of the same type, any they behave the same way. What am I missing? I thought all dc motors would reverse direction if the wiring was reversed? Thanks

Had to take them off to find out. Turns out the lower threads on the driver's side are left hand.

According to my parts book the lower rear spring shackle bushings are different for the left and right sides. Can someone tell me what the difference is? Thanks.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Guess I'll start first with the lower hoses. I just thought that if something was plugged up that there would be signs of overheating. Like I stated, it's not currently drivable and the temp gauge doesn't work, but I let it idle quite a while and went all over the head and block with an IR thermometer. Readings ranged from 180 to 220. Thanks again.

I have 1938 Pontiac Flathead 6. Books all say is has a coolant capacity of 16 quarts. Coolant is at top of radiator,but when I drain, I only get a little more than 8 quarts. I have found 2 drain cocks: one at the passenger's side bottom of the radiator and one on the drivers side of the block. Car has a heater. Is not currently drivable, but will idle for 20 minutes or more without any sign of overheating. What am I missing? Are there additional drain cocks? Do I need to run the engine a bit while draining? Thanks

Looking for servicable front axle for 1935 Ford Coupe. Thanks

Can someone tell me what material 40 Mopar steering wheels are made of? I just finished sanding what remained of the paint on mine and the black material underneath almost seems like some kind of rubber. It disolves in grease remover and in denatured alcohol. What would be the best thing to used to repaint it? Regular spray paint, spray-on vinyl, or spray-on plastic? Thanks

Can someone tell me what was the last year that Ford pickups came with a floor shift? Thanks