Lahti35
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Posts posted by Lahti35
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From the badge on the grill it appears to be one of the late Queen's personal Gremlins.
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I love the green interiors!
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On 5/29/2024 at 7:51 PM, Fleetwood Meadow said:
I’m making my own harness. I looked at RI Wire and the cost of the harness(es) for this car is outrageous. The dashboard one alone is $1,400. So for a little time and effort I’m making my own.
I find making wiring harnesses one of the most enjoyable aspects of restoration. The work is clean, lightweight, and only requires a few good tools. The parts I don't like are the factory connectors that are sometimes not available requiring a work around. Professionally made harness are not cheap, also another good reason I make my own. There are limits though, I wouldn't try it on anything made after the 70's as the wiring gets nuts!
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1 minute ago, 30DodgePanel said:
Amazing it survived this long. It tells me she's had plenty of use.
Definitely a keeper for the next lucky caretaker if you ever decide to sell it.
For sure, it'll stay with the car... I hope the newer key works better, the old one doesn't seem to work well as the teeth are worn too. Somebody got their money's worth if of the key, no doubt!
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Snapped some pics and it looks like the key only goes right to "ON" and back again to "OFF".
Backside:
I also found that my dizzy is a 10004 so i'm thinking the one wire condenser is the one for me...
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9 hours ago, Mark Gregush said:
If you need one, start a new parts wanted post here, check with Myers or ROMAR, or eBay (don't buy the first one you see some are way overpriced in my OP)
Sage advise!
I talked with Myers today and inquired about a key while ordering parts and they had one so that's all set. The original key is worn down to 1/3 it's original thickness and flexes, never see the backside of a key so thin as it's totally smoothed over.
That ignition switch looks like mine on the front. I'll look at the backside tomorrow and see what I see...
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No stamped numbers on my distributor tag I can see... just the NE model # O.
The ignition/light switch has 3 positions: off, dim, and on as well as the key part that doesn't move very well. I was hesitant to try and move it much as the key is so thin from wear I don't want to break it. If anybody has a decent Clum DB97 key I could use it, no luck on ebay currently.
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12 hours ago, Minibago said:
Your car should be 12 volt negative ground.
I would use 2 gauge for battery leads.
If in doubt go big.
My issue is that I'm stuck with 4 gauge between the starter switch and starter because it's inside armored cable, it appear to be the original cable. The battery to starter switch is old 1 gauge with a cloth cover, the battery negative to ground cable is the braided type. Looking at a 1922 DB wiring diagram the cables from the starter and battery to the starter switch both look to be in the same size galvanized conduit which fits 4 gauge but no bigger.
Normally I up battery cables to 2/0 but being this is 12v and the longest cable is 3' I'd like to stay stock.... I just don't know what stock is for the other two cables and I'm just guessing they are all the same size....
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Thanks guys, I'll check the distributor number and the ignition switch later today and see what I've got....
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1 hour ago, Minibago said:
There are two types, one has a single wire and one has two wires, I understand that the “rebuild” is the inserting of a modern condenser in the old can but the can fits neatly in the distributor body.
From the pics on romars website it's the 2 wire pre-1921 type I need. I figured it was just putting a new condenser inside the old housing, I'm a stickler for looking correct!
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Looking for a partial or complete Alemite Gascolator Model S (short arm). PM me if you can help, thanks!
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I've got what looks like 4 gauge cable from the starter/generator inside conduit. The battery cables look like replacements from a later date. What gauge should the positive and negative battery be? Also 4 gauge?
My roadster came to me wired for 12V negative ground, is this correct? I found information saying they switched to positive ground around 1922?
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Looking for the appropriate 1918-1921 NorthEast #10110 condenser. Does not need to work, just need a core to send to Romar for a rebuild. PM works best. Thanks!
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I did some more digging today... Found some good and bad.
The water neck was gooped with sealant and looks beautiful.
The pump itself is leaking from the packing nut. When I address it I may just get a new shaft for the packing to ride on. I noticed it started leaking after I turned the engine over by hand and has some corrosion creeping out of it. The reinforced rubber connector disc from the pump to distributor is petrified and in need of replacement.
Some funky spring extension going on here...
At some point someone added a filter to the vacuum tank. I don't like it hanging way out there on a pipe extension. We all know how fragile these SW vacuum tank tops are so it has to go. I have seen an "Gascolator" made filter that hooks directly to the vacuum canister top with a banjo bolt and washers so i'll try to find one of those. Note the dark urine sample in the red filter... The old girl needs to drink more water.
I was pleasantly surprised by the condition of the distributor cap and rotor. I believe the distributor is missing it's original condenser that goes into the two holes under the rotor at the bottom. The points look ok too.
I pulled the spark plugs to get a look at what was going on in the cylinders and am very happy to report they all are dry, no oil. Rich with carbon but no signs of oil sneaking past rings. They all look just like this one.
Something also sort of neat is the number of alemite fitting caps that are present. I've found several in place so far, never had a car with so many caps.
After surveying I officially started in at my favorite place to begin, the battery cables. They're the typical crusty, corroded, mess I'm familiar with and will all be replaced. I pulled them along with the starter switch box for rehab to measure cable sizes and connectors. Time to start ordering parts.
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7 hours ago, Mattml430 said:
Well done keep us up to date with the progress on it.
Will do. The main recommissioning thread is over on the "Our Cars and Restorations" sub forum, i'll be doing updating there.
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4 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
Good for you, glad the deal worked out. I think you have a winner.
The seller was a very nice guy, even gave me a new battery and some oil he had bought for the dodge. It was nice to meet him.
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1 hour ago, 30DodgePanel said:
Looks like you already have a few fans gathering around
She's right at home!
My fan club is always interested in new stuff, they approve!
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The dodge is home.
The wife and I made the trip down on the highway this AM through rain and came back in sun on the slower back roads to prevent any damage to the top. Three hours down, six back. The seller was a nice guy and we got it loaded easily. He also gave me oils he had purchased for it and a new battery he had never installed. There were also some extra vintage items in the trunk not shown in the auction so that was cool.
The top is very brittle, I doubt it would survive the car driving at it's own pace. The wrap got it home no worse for wear than it was at pickup.
First impressions of the car:
-It does have compression.
-It rolls very easily.
-It's remarkably solid except for some very minor rot in one corner of the battery tray.
-It's had some amature restoration work done to it but nothing drastic...
-There's lots of play in the steering box and the drag link ends.
-The radiator looks to have been serviced and repainted at some point.
-The tires are in good shape with no cracking except for the spare but leak currently.
-The seat is the original leather and failing in spots.
-The wiring is toast, I unhooked the battery in the car even though it only had two volts.
-Gas tank is varnish city and the funk is powerful.
-Motometer looks to be ok.
-Clutch, brake and parking brake are all horribly out of adjustment.
-Wheel spokes all seem to be ok.
I didn't get much time with it tonight but i'll check it over some more this weekend and go from there. In the meantime I'll get some manuals on the car, fuel system and electrical stuff and start studying. At a minimum the fuel system will have to be totally cleaned/repaired, oil pan dropped for cleaning, and the ignition wiring will have to be redone.
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I made the trip and collect the dodge today... took the highway down and backroads back home at a much slower pace to avoid damage. Success!
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4 hours ago, nat said:
Congratulations and thanks for keeping it off my list of non deductible dependents.
It looks like a rare find and I'm pleased to think you might patch it up without going down the full restoration rabbit hole.
My 24' tourer was resurrected after after an early 60's smash up so it isn't as pristine as your roadster. Just the same, it gets a lot of attention at the few meets I've attended. I even won a third place trophy in a two contestant competition.
I'm still wondering if the upholstery is original and if the rear wheel spokes are loose.
Keep us posted.
Nat
I'm itching to get eye's on it myself and give it a good cleaning. I haven't seen a DB at my local car shows since the 90's, mostly muscle cars now. I'd really like to take it to the Old Car Festival at Greenfield Village but time will tell if it's up to the task!
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14 hours ago, Mark Gregush said:
My 1920 is February so I would need the 13th edition Book of Information. I got the 1914-1927 Mechanics Instruction Manual, lots of them on eBay, which seems to be fine for most repair questions. The Dodge Brothers Club web site is pretty much not working, my computer malware will not let me access the page even if I make an exception. There is a breakdown there of what serial numbers need which Book of Information. There are 2 good Facebook pages, one is connected with the club.
I'm able to use some of the stuff on the DB Club so far... As soon as I get the car home i'll pick up some literature. I've been a member of those facebook pages on and off over the years when looking for a DB, currently I'm joined up. Lots of great info around! I'm sure I'll be spending some cash with Romar and Myers shortly!
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16 hours ago, Axial_Flow said:
Hammer dropped at $6,790…..What a bargain, I knew I should have bid on it. @Lahti35 I believe you are the winner? If so congratulations!
I am the winner. I actually just happened on BAT 3 hours before the end of the auction and stumbled upon it... I thought about it during lunch and with 13 minutes to go I placed a bid only to be told my credit card info had to be updated, lol. I hadn't been on BAT for some time! After frantically updating my info I commenced bidding. I didn't figure I had much of a shot with how much the car went for the last time it was sold but I guess it was meant to be. Don't think I can go wrong with this one.
I've been after a DB for a number of years but something always nixed the deal. This looks like a car that's had work done to it over 104 years but that's ok... I plan to clean it and get it going again over the summer. I'll post some pics when I collect it after the holiday. I started a thread on it in the "our cars and restorations" section.
Looks like the car was built in the middle of August 1920... Would Book of Information #14 be the correct one to get?
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1 hour ago, JV Puleo said:
I even know what a Lahti35 is😄
I have no doubt you do! I've spent a great deal of my life in the Milsurp world and was an avid collector from a young age. Oodles of fun!
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My better half saw I was interested in the book and surprised me with a copy the last week...
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Oops I did it again... 1920 Dodge Brothers Roadster
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted · Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
Things are starting to roll in now...
I got my orders from Myers and Romar and it's all real nice stuff with fast shipping! I got a new water pump shaft and gasket, literature, some parts for the vacuum tank, carb gasket set, and some odds and ends.
I'm still waiting on the bulk of my orders for the battery cable and hardware from various suppliers but they are due here this week. I was itchy to do something besides research so I pulled the starter switch for a cleaning and used a new product I have never tried. I'm not big on advertisement but this Super Clean stuff works good. The back of the starter switch was gooped up with the old dried petrified grease and dirt mixture we all love so much, the dremel wire brush was nearly useless. I poked around on youtube and found some product testing videos and Super Clean beat out a lot of other contenders, plus it was scent free (I don't want my dodge smelling like oranges). My go to oven cleaner removes paint as well as grease and Super Clean wasn't supposed to, I don't want to strip paint this time around.
I set the switch on some cardboard in the shade and gave it some squirts of cleaner and did it two more times over 20 minutes. Some very light soft toothbrush action and a water wash removed 98% of the junk, only a few pencil lead sized hard cases clung on and required a pic. I was thoroughly impressed, it didn't bother any paint either. I wish I had taken a before pic but be assured it was grungy, and it cleaned easy. No idea how it will do on a more moist dirt/grease/oil combo but i'll find out soon.
Sunday is a big day, the Dodge comes out of the barn for a good cleaning of the engine and transmission so I can get going on refurbishment. I'll be working on the fuel system, ignition, and water pump simultaneously to keep things moving along at a good clip.