edhd58
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Posts posted by edhd58
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Thats funny right there, I don't care who you are. Actually, I don't think anything wrong happened either, all looks fine.
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I amazed myself at my own stupidity tonight. It's my first attempt at body/paint work. After two weeks of off and on work on the right rear fender its was ready for epoxy primer. That's what I've been told by everybody to put down first. Went to the best local auto paint suppy shop and got what I was told I needed in material and supplies. When mixing my second, note I say second batch of primer it occurs to me I just read the cup wrong and mixed the stuff 50/50, not 2 to 1 like its supposed to be. Sitting there waiting for the primer to get ready to spray is when I really for the first time studied all the markings at the 2 to1 to 1 marks. Yep, it has 2:1:1 columns. Wow what a bonehead I feel like. I hope this doesn't mean another down to the metal sanding weekend.
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I never even thought about it. After reading this I update the profile so it does show. Good point made.
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I like those ideas really well. Think I'll look into our local college and see what they have to offer. If not I know a couple close by body shops, maybe they'll let me do grunt work for the education.
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It's not blacked out. The grille is just that rusty. The grill surround is painted black which was also the cars color. I have now started to disassemblethe car to get it ready for paint. I was originaly just going to spray clear over it, but decided that it should go ahead and get painted.
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here's a Youtube video of water immersion transfer. I'm thinking about doing it to the dash on my 42 Ford dash.
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I keep looking at this car and just can't bring myself to just clear over it. My wife, bless her heart, told me to spend what I need to get the tools to do what needs to be done and do it mysef. This 42 Ford started out to just get clear coated over the rust/patina. The more I find right with the car, low amount of rust and body is very straight and ALL hinges are tight, the more I want it to look as good as it can. To make a long story short, I started taking it apart toady to do it right. This however means I'll be asking several questions as I go, because I've never done body work and I just don't have the $$ to pay for a professional paint job.
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According to my sis on her recent return from New Orleans, the people there saw Naw Lins.
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The question that started this thread was, "is there a checklist to use". After giving it some thought and seeing all the posts about what the car should or shouldn't be, I don't think I saw any mention of the checklist for the buyer. What can you do, or will you do yourself? How rare or popular do you want your car to be? What do you want it to be when it's finished. I think most important, to me anyway is, what am I going to be able to afford and how long am I willing to take to make it what I want it to be. If you want rust free, complete, driving and in good shape you're likely going to have to spend several more dollars than if you get the same car that needs some work. The checklist used to look at any car is going to have to take in consideration the purchaser's own situation. I don't think there can be one set checklist for what a car should be without knowing the buyers abilities both physical and financial.
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Evidently I am way out there. My first project car is a 42 Ford Fordor, surface rust over the whole car but only surface rust, and didn't run and I didn't have the chance to test it. Interior is going to have to be completey redone, and the side windows all are spider webbed. I paid $2700 for, but only after a very thorough inspection. The car is 99% complete, very straight body and undercarrige, and after 45 minutes of tinkering after I got it home, it runs and drives. My limit is 300$ a month to spend and the first thing I did was a lot a lot of internet looking for parts suppliers. My point is I think you have to take each find with it's own merits, have a budget in mind before you start looking based on what you know you can afford and go from there.
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1942 Ford Super Deluxe Business Coupe for sale | Hemmings Motor News another link that shows the same gauges as yours Dave. I am lead to believe the gauges in my car have been replaced with later ones.
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1942 Ford Interior | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Here is a link to a photo of a military issue 42 Ford. The speedo looks the same as yours, to me. Dave the clock matches yours too. Since it is a military car I wonder if the style was changed for that application, or if that is how mine should look as well. I'm going to keep digging, my curiosity is up now.
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Stem-wind dash clock ?? Am I reading that right, the clock isn't electric but a spring driven wind up clock?? That has to mean mine is later than 42, mine is 6volt with a stem to set the time.
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Dave you now have me questioning if someone years ago replaced the speedo and clock in mine. My gauges do match nos gauges I got to renew the dash, and the person I got them from had them listed as only made that style for 42 (coloring). My speedo did only show about 24,000 miles when I got the car.
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There is a speedo on Ebay that says it fits a 46 Ford Super Deluxe. It looks very similar to yours. I was told the 42 ford was a short run, and being a civilian car with the 6 cylinder, made it an even shorter run. Thats all just heresay I don't have any real proof. There is also a spedo on Ebay that says 46-48 Ford that looks just like mine, at this point I'm not sure of anything but I do think yours looks like a Ford speedo.
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Here are my 42 Ford Fordor Gauges
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I don't know about the clock, but i have a 42 Ford (all original ) and that isn't anything like the speedometer
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I've been buying parts to redo, no show car, a 1942 Ford Fordor. Its amazing all the parts that are available. I think I have a pic of my dash before I disassembled it if you'd like it. If not on youtube there are several videos, and the dash parts all seem to be readily available.
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Well the question of a low mileage 1942 Ford has been answered I believe. When roling it around the shop a few days ago I heard a clunking sound from the driveline. The sound was the one you hear when a U-joint is going bad. I have never worked on a closed driveshaft before, so a good deal of studying happened before I decided this was something I could handle. I decided it would be easier for me to raise the car and unbolt the whole axle/spring assembly then roll it our from under the car. This method worked really well. Once this was out I unbolted the U-joint from the transmission and as I was taking it off, parts fell off. Not thinking ahead I ordered a new joint and proceeded the next couple nights to scrape and wash the axle assembly. Here's where that learning curve hit me. While cleaning and inspecting the drive tube, I decided to remove the speedo gear assembly just to see what it looked like. Turns out, it's not all there, and what is is all messed up. Now I get to order the speedo drive gear and try to locate the driven assembly. Because of not looking at everything before ordering parts, I have to keep it apart another several days waiting for the drive gear. The U-joint showed up today, and since it bolts to the tranny I went ahead and put it on. With it in placeI spun the output shaft of the transmission and learned I have bearing worn. Luckily it wont be going on any real road trips before I have a chance to pull the motor and trans and rebuild them. Because the U-joint was falling apart and the trans shaft bearing worn, I seriously doubt this is a low mileage car. Even so, I still like it a lot and am looking forward to some local shows it will be going to. Here's a link to a youtbe video just in case you want to see it.
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Wow, I so know what you feel. I just recently purchased a 42 Ford Fordor. It's so straight, just a lot of surface rust, I can't decide to fix and paint or just seal and drive as is. Everybody keeps telling me to do what will make me happiest with the end result. That has to be the way you go or you will never be totally happy with it.
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Here she is guys, rescue from a crusher. It's 99% complete very straight and just a lot of surface rust. The interior is all there but of course everything is wore out. It runs and drives but smokes, with the 6 flathead. I just cant decide wheterh to restore or just clear coat over the metal as is and make a neat old daily driver. Any thoughts???????
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Hi guys, Eddie is who i am. New to an old car retsore, so I'll be asking a lot of questions. Mine is a 1942 Ford Fordor Deluxe Special. A rescue from a car crusher, and 99% complete, very straight and just surface rust. [ATTACH=CONFIG]167339[/ATTACH]
It has a green engine
in General Discussion
Posted
I have a 42 Ford Fordor that I am redoing. I think I read somewhere that this should have a blue engine. Mine has a green engine, which is wrong, me or the motor???