Garnet & Gold
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Posts posted by Garnet & Gold
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I do have another bulb number for the tail lights #1156 but I have also found that the #2057 is a very tight fit and if the plastic tail light socket might have melted slightly causing the bulb to be scary to get out. Not sure about the size of #1156 or if I have ever used it just have that number written in my service manual.
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The other 2 are from the bottom side of the cluster cover. You will also have to remove the head light switch knob.
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After about an hour searching thru the service manual I finally found this on page 14-24 of the red manual (same page for blue manual).
If the problem is repaired or ceases to exist, the SMEC cancels the Fault Code after 50 to 100 ignition key on/off cycles.
I wanted to make this its own thread as it applies to multiple cases.
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I would be reluctant to buy the one as you can read on the unit that it is 1000 PSI. I would bet that if you could read the marking on the other you would see that it also is 1000 PSI.. I you look at your factory accumulator you will see it read 2000 PSI.
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The door switch was my first suggestion but I ask the owner and the door is not causing the dinging as he is driving down the street and turns on the lights while driving and the dinging starts. That's why I want to think it is something in the head light switch.
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This is a 1989 VIN 203279 SOHC. When the car is being driven and the head lights are turned on the chime starts and continues until the head lights are turned off. Any body have any ideas. It makes it sound like something is connected into the head light switch but the car has not had any special wiring done on it like an alarm or radio swap.
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Reaper1, To the best of my recollection when I saw the car, the steering wheel did not have an air bag. Being the Bordeaux interior they did not have that interior after 1989. This TC is in your part of the country. It has 26K miles on it. Pretty ride. G&G
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Here is one more version of the table that I created.
D.L. I looked thru our table on VIN's and did not find any red/black/tan.
Build Stats Engine/Transmission 1989 1990 1991 Totals Turbo II - A413 3,377 3,377 V6 - A604 1,787 1,635 3,422 16V - 5 Speed 387 114 501 Totals 3,764 1,901 1,635 7,300 Exterior Colors By Year 1989 1990 1991 Totals White 1 477 528 1,006 Cabernet 1,454 1,454 Red 1,344 474 409 2,227 Yellow 965 474 304 1,743 Black 476 394 870 Totals 3,764 1,901 1,635 7,300 Interior Colors By Year 1989 1990 1991 Totals Bordeaux 649 1 650 Ginger 3,115 948 818 4,881 Black 952 817 1,769 Totals 3,764 1,901 1,635 7,300 Exterior Interior Top Engine Emission 1989 1990 1991 Totals White Bordeaux Black 16V 49 states 1 1 White Ginger Black T2 49 states 1 1 White Ginger Tan V6 California 52 83 135 White Ginger Tan V6 49 states 172 228 400 White Ginger Tan 16V California 3 3 White Ginger Tan 16V 49 states 10 10 White Black Black V6 California 51 67 118 White Black Black V6 49 states 173 150 323 White Black Black 16V California 4 4 White Black Black 16V 49 states 11 11 Cabernet Bordeaux Black T2 California 176 176 Cabernet Bordeaux Black T2 49 states 405 405 Cabernet Bordeaux Black 16V California 15 15 Cabernet Bordeaux Black 16V 49 states 53 53 Cabernet Ginger Black T2 California 157 157 Cabernet Ginger Black T2 49 states 307 307 Cabernet Ginger Tan T2 California 102 102 Cabernet Ginger Tan T2 49 states 158 158 Cabernet Ginger Black 16V California 12 12 Cabernet Ginger Black 16V 49 states 40 40 Cabernet Ginger Tan 16V California 6 6 Cabernet Ginger Tan 16V 49 states 23 23 Red Ginger Black T2 California 406 406 Red Ginger Black T2 49 states 375 375 Red Ginger Tan T2 California 160 160 Red Ginger Tan T2 49 states 300 300 Red Ginger Black 16V California 17 17 Red Ginger Black 16V 49 states 61 61 Red Ginger Tan 16V California 8 3 11 Red Ginger Tan 16V 49 states 17 10 27 Red Ginger Tan V6 California 51 53 104 Red Ginger Tan V6 49 states 171 138 309 Red Black Black V6 California 50 59 109 Red Black Black V6 49 states 174 159 333 Red Black Black 16V California 4 4 Red Black Black 16V 49 states 11 11 Yellow Ginger Black T2 California 156 156 Yellow Ginger Black T2 49 states 378 378 Yellow Ginger Tan T2 California 111 111 Yellow Ginger Tan T2 49 states 185 185 Yellow Ginger Tan V6 California 51 36 87 Yellow Ginger Tan V6 49 states 171 105 276 Yellow Ginger Black 16V California 18 18 Yellow Ginger Black 16V 49 states 56 56 Yellow Ginger Tan 16V California 11 3 14 Yellow Ginger Tan 16V 49 states 50 10 60 Yellow Black Black 16V California 4 4 Yellow Black Black 16V 49 states 11 11 Yellow Black Black V6 California 50 34 84 Yellow Black Black V6 49 states 174 129 303 Black Black Black V6 California 51 64 115 Black Black Black V6 49 states 169 155 324 Black Black Black 16V California 4 4 Black Black Black 16V 49 states 11 11 Black Ginger Black V6 California 27 44 71 Black Ginger Black V6 49 states 153 104 257 Black Ginger Tan V6 California 26 26 Black Ginger Tan V6 49 states 21 27 48 Black Ginger Black 16V California 2 2 Black Ginger Black 16V 49 states 6 6 Black Ginger Tan 16V California 1 1 Black Ginger Tan 16V 49 states 5 5 Totals 3,764 1,901 1,635 7,300 -
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Made in Switzerland by a company named Wenger.
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Here you go, brand new never used tool kit. Bob
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Plimbinguy,
If you go down the list of thread in this forum and find
Chrysler TC by Maserati VIN Update 12/20/2019 and then add your TC to the thread I will add your car to the next update if it does not already appear. Thanks
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If you look down about 10 - 15 threads you will see an article "
Passenger Door Will Not Open " that will help you with your problem. I had 3 cases of this problem. If the door latch has the puffed up plastic on the actual latch the problem will require a steady pressure to force or even rip the plastic coating on the latch.
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Here is a URL for a TC being auctioned off. There are 3 days left and based on the pictures it looks like a clean car that has been garage all its life.
Previous owner had been a member of TC America.
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Here is the URL to complete the membership form and following receipt of your annual dues you will receive a welcome package and 2 of the most current back issues of the newsletter.
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Congratulations. Do you want me to add it to the VIN Table?
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I do know that when you flush the brake system, the front brakes will drain like traditional brakes on cars but the rear brakes have to have the ignition switch to the 'ON' position for them to drain. When the ignition is in the 'ON' position the teves system is activated.
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My quick answer is that I got the door open.
In an article in the TC America newsletter back in March of 2008 there was an article about a sagging door. The reason for the door sagging was that the coating on the door striker post is missing. There solution was to firmly lift the door up while pulling on the door handle. That solution was to simple and I did not learn about that solution until after I had gotten the door open. I will try this solution when I get a chance to go to my mechanics shop and try it on the TC there with the same problem. Now for my solution. I removed the upper leather pleated panel on the door. I then created a hole in the sheet of plastic, removing enough to put my hand into the inner door. I then removed the insulation and water barrier in the area in the picture as there is no metal internal frame. I had been playing with a spare door in the garage moving the rods and pulling the handles and watching what was moving at the latch. In the second picture there is a brass looking small bar that comes out of the latch mechanism. I pull the interior door handle and was able to push the brass bar up and at that point I was able to push the door open. What I then found is the third picture where there was no white ring of plastic around the striker post.
I hope these solutions helps out should you have this problem. I would suggest checking your striker posts and if they look like they are deteriorating get new posts before the problem occurs.
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Problem: Passenger door in 2 of my TC’s will not open. Today a friend called, and he has the same problem. He wanted an internal passenger door mechanism and I had bought one off eBay to fix one of my TC’s. Before I gave it to him, I thought I would label the 5 connections on the mechanism so he would know where to attach the rods. In doing that I played with the mechanism and it was not working correctly either. I played more with it and determined that the locking part that rotates against the bolt in the door jam and holds the door closed. It will not move because the plastic coating on the metal rotating latch has bubbled up and will not allow the rotating latch to return to it’s unlock position. I have attached pictures of the rotating plastic-coated latch and then a close up of the bubble of plastic that stops the latch from returning to the unlock position. Now that I now what the problem is in opening the door the question is how do I get to the internal mechanism? In the part I gave to my friend I told him to file off the plastic coating so that the latch could return to the unlock position. The problem is to remove the mechanism from the door, there are 3 torx bolts holding the mechanism in. Those bolts can only be accessed when the door is open as their heads are in the jam. So, the question is does anyone know of any way to open the door without major damage or by reaching in the door and forcing the plastic-coated latch to move to the open position?
Before discovering the bubbled up plastic coating I tried sitting in the passenger seat, held the interior door opening handle and hit the door with my shoulder. No luck. Next I tried tying the interior door handle in the open position and had my wife hold the exterior handle in the open position and jammed a 6 foot long 2X4 into the inside of the door where the latch lives. Again no luck. Next I tried using my crow bar on the outside of the door where the latch lives and without bending the metal, I had no luck again.
The pictures supplied are of the mechanism I purchased on eBay and I am assuming that all 4 vehicles have the same problem with their mechanism.
Just remember when giving suggestions that he door will not open.
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Roger, Can you provide us with a picture looking down the power steering tube. Thank You
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Bro,
I think the difference is the V6 versus the 2.2 in getting to the bolt. I even removed what appears to be an AC sensor and still all I could do was to get the socket on the bolt and no wrench. Even my flat wrenches that are hinged by the "socket", I had no room to keep the drive in place and rotate it. My 2.2's are at the shop and you don't have a V6 handy.
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There is a good reason for the bolt not being in the power steering tube and that being you can't get to it. The picture shows the nut you want to replace. It has a 10MM head and attached from the fire wall side. The alternator has been removed for better visibility to the location. Yellow arrow points to the bolt connecting the tube to a bracket and you can also see the hole where the power steering attaches.
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The wiring in the door has about 6-8 inches before it merges in with the harness in the door and the wires are pink and yellow. My guess would be that the wires fell down towards the bottom of the door. You may have to remove the door card or at lest part of it to get your hand inside to hold the silver back part from the back side as the front and back sides of this light snap together to be held in the door card.
Blue grease type for top pull down motor?
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
Posted
This is what I have used.