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Garnet & Gold

Passenger Door Will Not Open

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Problem:  Passenger door in 2 of my TC’s will not open.  Today a friend called, and he has the same problem.  He wanted an internal passenger door mechanism and I had bought one off eBay to fix one of my TC’s.  Before I gave it to him, I thought I would label the 5 connections on the mechanism so he would know where to attach the rods.  In doing that I played with the mechanism and it was not working correctly either.  I played more with it and determined that the locking part that rotates against the bolt in the door jam and holds the door closed.  It will not move because the plastic coating on the metal rotating latch has bubbled up and will not allow the rotating latch to return to it’s unlock position.  I have attached pictures of the rotating plastic-coated latch and then a close up of the bubble of plastic that stops the latch from returning to the unlock position.  Now that I now what the problem is in opening the door the question is how do I get to the internal mechanism?  In the part I gave to my friend I told him to file off the plastic coating so that the latch could return to the unlock position.  The problem is to remove the mechanism from the door, there are 3 torx bolts holding the mechanism in.  Those bolts can only be accessed when the door is open as their heads are in the jam.  So, the question is does anyone know of any way to open the door without major damage or by reaching in the door and forcing the plastic-coated latch to move to the open position?  

Before discovering the bubbled up plastic coating I tried sitting in the passenger seat, held the interior door opening handle and hit the door with my shoulder. No luck.  Next I tried tying the interior door handle in the open position and had my wife hold the exterior handle in the open position and jammed a 6 foot long 2X4 into the inside of the door where the latch lives.  Again no luck.  Next I tried using my crow bar on the outside of the door where the latch lives and without bending the metal, I had no luck again. 

The pictures supplied are of the mechanism I purchased on eBay and I am assuming that all 4 vehicles have the same problem with their mechanism.

Just remember when giving suggestions that he door will not open.

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from the 1990 part book

 

the latch 4336378 is the same as 4336150.  used on 1981-1994 K,Q,G, and P bodies

 

1 04464648 1 SHELL, Door, Right
04464649 1 SHELL, Door, Left
2 2 CYLINDER, Lock, Refer to 23D
3 HANDLE, Exterior
04463928 1 Cabernet, Right
04463929 1 Cabernet, Left
04463932 1 Yellow, Right
04463933 1 Yellow, Left
04463934 1 Red, Right
04463935 1 Red, Left
04463936 1 Black, Right
04463937 1 Black, Left
04463938 1 White, Right
04463939 1 White, Left
4 04336200 1 PLATE, Handle Mtg., Right
04336201 1 PLATE, Handle Mtg., Left
5 06031029 2 NUT, Handle
6 4 SCREW
7 1 LINK, Handle to Latch, Serviced in #3
8 04463042 1 LINK, Lock Cylinder to Latch, Right
04463043 1 LINK, Lock Cylinder to Latch, Left
9 04336136 2 CLIP
10 LATCH, Door
04336378 1 Right
04336377 1 Left
04310543 2 STRIKER, Latch

11 06501220 6 SCREW
12 4 RIVET (DNS)
13 04467252 2 SOLENOID, Lock
14 04463046 2 LINK, Solenoid
15 04336136 2 CLIP
16 03882620 2 CLIP
17 04463528 1 LINK, Right
04463529 1 LINK, Left
18 04463530 1 LINK, Right
04463531 1 LINK, Left
19 04396574 1 CONTROL, Remote, Right
04396575 1 CONTROL, Remote, Left
HOUSING, Remote Control
0AH46HT5 1 Ginger, Right
0AH47HT5 1 Ginger, Left
04396574 1 Black, Right
04396575 1 Black, Left
BEZEL, Housing
0AH48HT5 2 Ginger
04184790 2 Black
20 06032985 6 SCREW
21 HINGE, Body Half
04365815 2 Upper
04445936 2 Lower
22 06500354 4 SCREW
23 04280727 4 PIN, Hinge
24 04184244 1 CLIP, Right

04184245 1 CLIP, Left
25 04463034 1 PANEL, Repair, Right
04463035 1 PANEL, Repair, Left
26 2 CLIP, Speaker (DNS)
27 04469124 2 SPEAKER, Door
28 8 WASHER, Speaker (DNS)
29 8 SCREW, Speaker (DNS)
30 BEZEL, Speaker
0D233GT5 2 Tan
0D233GX7 2 Black
31 04464562 1 BEZEL, Switch, Right
04464563 1 BEZEL, Switch, Left
32 1 WEATHERSTRIP
04464568 1 Door, Right
04464569 1 Door, Left
1 Door Opening
05253050 1 Up to 11-16-89, Right
05253051 1 Up to 11-16-89, Left
05253566 1 After 11-16-89, Right
05253567 1 After 11-16-89, Left
04464577 AR FASTENER, Weatherstrip
05257624 1 Hinge Pillar at Belt, Right
05257625 1 Hinge Pillar at Belt, Left
05257641 2 Hinge Pillar Secondary, Upper
33 2 SLEEVE, Serviced with Link
34 2 SLEEVE, Serviced with Link
35 04464486 1 GASKET, Latch, Right

04464487 1 GASKET, Latch, Left
36 04378278 2 PAWL
37 04463064 1 BEZEL, Latch, Right
04463065 1 BEZEL, Latch, Left
38 04480728 1 SEAL, Hinge Pillar Belt, Right
04480729 1 SEAL, Hinge Pillar Belt, Left
39 04463063 2 GASKET
40 04310543 2 STRIKER
41 04184105 2 WASHER

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My quick answer is that I got the door open.

In an article in the TC America newsletter back in March of 2008 there was an article about a sagging door.  The reason for the door sagging was that the coating on the door striker post is missing.  There solution was to firmly lift the door up while pulling on the door handle.  That solution was to simple and I did not learn about that solution until after I had gotten the door open.  I will try this solution when I get a chance to go to my mechanics shop and try it on the TC there with the same problem.  Now for my solution.  I removed the upper leather pleated panel on the door.  I then created a hole in the sheet of plastic, removing enough to put my hand into the inner door.  I then removed the insulation and water barrier in the area in the picture as there is no metal internal frame.  I had been playing with a spare door in the garage moving the rods and pulling the handles and watching what was moving at the latch.  In the second picture there is a brass looking small bar that comes out of the latch mechanism.  I pull the interior door handle and was able to push the brass bar up and at that point I was able to push the door open.  What I then found is the third picture where there was no white ring of plastic around the striker post.

I hope these solutions helps out should you have this problem.  I would suggest checking your striker posts and if they look like they are deteriorating get new posts before the problem occurs.

 

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Just to add to this, I thought I was going to be slick and go to the parts store and get the new sticker pin sheath in the HELP! section. Nope. Those don't work. Chrysler decided to use their own frigging design and I haven't seen a "fix" beyond replacement.

 

Marty, do you have those strikers in stock, and how much?

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