Akstraw
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Posts posted by Akstraw
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I have used Industrial Brake and Clutch in Morganville, NJ with good result.
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I may be wrong, but I don't think you will find an off-the-shelf bolt-on conversion for this. If you must go the alternator route, you might try these folks and see if they can do a conversion for you (inside the existing generator housing).
gener-nator.com
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Lots of good suggestions. Agree with many of them, but struggling to see why the Tesla Cyber Truck would be on a “revolutionary” list. I suppose it depends on how you define the criteria.
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I talked to a woman there yesterday who said that she had the part I had left with them at Hershey, and they would be returning it to me (unplated) within the next two weeks.
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I note that for Charlotte this spring, there will be a Grand National Meet on Friday, and a National Meet on Saturday. I have been thinking about my game plan. Bring a an eligible car Friday, and show it again on Saturday? or go back home (90 min one-way) and bring another car Saturday? Is it a faux pas to show the same car Friday and Saturday? Some may say “What’s the point?”, but I am not really chasing trophies; I just like to participate. I am wondering what others are planning.
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To answer the question; No. But I have myself tracked down and contacted several previous owners of some of my cars. I recently bought a Model T from a collection assembled in the early nineties. Unfortunately, the collector died in an accident in the mid-nineties, and the heirs are just now selling off. I was able to track down the prior owner, now 89, who sold the car in 1991. He told me what he remembered about the car, and all-in-all, I think he was glad to have the call and the opportunity to ‘talk cars’ with somebody for a half an hour. I hope that when I am approaching 90, somebody will call me out of the blue and bring back some happy memories of these cars that I love.
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My deal with the wife is (Rule #1) that all my cars have to be titled, run, and drive. That’s so I don’t leave her with a warehouse full of junk that she can’t sell. I am allowed one exception for a long-term project car. Since retirement, my annual rhythm has been:
1st quarter: select and prep cars for spring and summer shows
2nd quarter: work off punch list items on any cars that don’t meet Rule #1 after spring test drive
3rd & 4th quarter: long term project car work
It seems to be working for me, though when a new acquisition comes along that doesn’t meet Rule #1, it becomes the top priority. Somewhere in there, I try to work in a few days each quarter to help friends who are age-challenged to keep their antiques and classics up to par.
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39 minutes ago, Dr B said:
This did not cross my mind. Since I drive all my cars they are all titled and have tags. I am not aware how a car that is driven could legally not be titled and have tags and insurance. Is that possible or are we only talking about project cars or "garage art" that are off the road? I guess the latter is how skip titles occur.
Robert
I just bought a car that had an open title from 1991. In the past three years, I have passed on buying two cars because the number on the title did not match the number on the car. Couldn’t agree with Alsancle more, esp. point #1. When you are talking 50-100 year old cars, anything could have happened in the past to result in screwed up paperwork. Several years ago, I skipped going to a rainy Hershey to stay home and do title work for three days. I sleep better now knowing that all the titles are in my name and unencumbered.
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Keep after it, Jim. As mentioned, the correct tools are available very reasonably on eBay, and this is not that difficult to learn. Even the shops that say they can do it these days — many of them I don’t trust to do it correctly.
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I bought a Model A farm truck at the age of 13 in 1971. It had been sitting in a field since 1949. Trucks weren't that popular back then, and this one was in 'parts car' condition at best, so it had been passed over by any who knew what they were doing. It cost me $25, and another $5 to have it towed home. I joined the AACA that winter and went to my first Hershey the next fall. Finally got the thing running about three years later. In 1995, I began a frame-up restoration, and took it to its first show in 2009, where it won a first junior. It won the Senior in 2011, and I look forward to entering it in the Grand National in Charlotte in 2024.
My Dad's sound advice (which I continue to fail to follow to this day) was to look for cars with solid bodies, as body and paint work is always more costly than mechanical repairs.
Here is a photo on the show field in Charlotte in 2011.
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Thanks, Gents! These are the types of tips I was looking for. Wish me luck!
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I recently bought a Model T that has been sitting in indoor storage for about 32 years. Was a good running car before that (Yes, ‘Ran when parked.’) I’d like to pull the head and pan to check the engine out. What are your tricks to avoid breaking stuck head bolts in the process?
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Peter, Thank you for all your work on the improvements!
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Are you a member of the HH Franklin Club? Many good technical resources there.
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It depends what you want. If you would like to spend the next 6-10 years tinkering and learning new skills (like me), then go for it. If you are eager to have a roadworthy antique vehicle to drive around town, show, and tour, then just go buy one. I get the family connection, but if grandpa’s passion isn’t your passion, then unload it and move on.
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I know two shops in NC that could knock this out in an afternoon. PM me if you want their contact info.
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Here is my wisdom on the subject ( My own definition of wisdom: The natural result of being so old that you have already done everything you can possibly do - wrong the first time.): Restoration shops are people, and people tend to do what they like first, and procrastinate about the things they don’t like.
i took a car into a “full restoration” shop for some metal fabrication, paint prep (shaping, filling, block sanding, priming),and paint. Within the first two months, the metal fabrication was complete. Then the car sat for two years. Finally, I took another car (that I had prepped myself) in for paint, and picked up the first car. The paint, buff, and polish on the second car was done in a month. Bottom line: I learned that these guys love to metal fab, and they love to spray and finish paint, but, like most of us, they hate the dusty lengthy work of prepping surfaces for a first class finish. Having learned that, I now do all the laborious filling, priming, and block sanding myself, and take projects to them for paint and finish only. It is a great combination. They do great work, and they turn my paint projects promptly. And, since all the labor is in the prep, it saves me dollars. Yes, me and my arthritis have to deal with all the prep work, but at least the projects move forward.
My advice; visit the shop you are considering, and look around at what type of work is going on. If it is not the type of work you have in mind, find another shop. (I have been in continuous touch with this shop for over ten years, and I have never seen any block sanding going on. That’s a clue). Shops will tell you they are full service, but you wouldn’t take an upholstery job to a transmission place, right? I also think the labor pool has something to do with it. It used to be that the enthusiastic kid who wanted to learn to paint cars started out doing all the s**t sandpaper jobs. Kids with that enthusiasm are hard to find these days, and so are owners who want to pay an hourly rate for all that labor.-
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Has nobody said The Gilmore yet? Especially on Celebration of Brass weekend.
Havana was interesting, but most of the cars I saw there would fall into the categories of “modified”, “restorod”, “rat rod”, or just plain “jalopy”. An interesting cross-cultural experience, though.
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In my state (NC), there is a "Lost Title" procedure clearly spelled out in the state laws. Easy to follow, though may cost several hundred dollars for a surety bond. Check out Michigan Legislature - Compiled Laws 257.217.
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Thanks. Was able to get it disengaged and on the trailer. Now the fun begins!
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I just bought a 1926 Model T. Of all the publications out there, which is the best ‘shop manual’ type of reference for the Model T?
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I think you are right; Cutler Hammer. I get the two confused.
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Your inputs have been helpful. Seller has sold the car. Thank you for your replies.
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I have been looking at a 1926 Model T that has been sitting in indoor storage since 1991. Yesterday, I was checking it out from top to bottom. I think I would like to buy the car. I engaged the crank and turned it slightly to see if the engine was frozen. It not only turned somewhat, but the car moved forward slightly as well. My question is: How to disengage the engine (I.e. put in neutral) in order to tow it from the barn and load on a trailer?
Recommendations for 1-cylinder coil box rebuild
in HCCA General Discussion
Posted
I know this is now a somewhat older post, but I think there is a specialist in coil restoration listed in the “services” part of this forum. You may give him a try.