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1935EB

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Posts posted by 1935EB

  1. post-86357-143141963766_thumb.jpgTaylormade, Another consideration is that if it was not for the body work with bondo done back in the 1960's and 1970's than this car may well have been scraped or parted out. Restoration work back than produced some good looking results but many were not long lasting robust repairs. Having said that the bondo repair did look good on your car up until the time you discovered it. I have a similar thread going on the Plymouth section of this forum named "paint and color for 1933 PD Plymouth". This car is a late 1960's or 1970's fix it up restoration. My cowl section looked very, very presentable, but look at the above attached photo. The same "tin worms" are at work. Good body men know this will require sheet metal patch panels, etc as plastic just can't fill these holes. Our hobby has advanced a great deal and what were acceptable standards back in the 1960's are not today. I am not saying that some great work was not done than, but I am saying that many cars were preserved because bondo and fillers were used to repair them at a time when a modern day "frame off restoration" was not the norm. Looking at your fenders I am afraid of what mine will look like once the paint and bondo is removed. For Dodge and Plymouth cars of the early 1930's another serious rust area are the cowls, lower body in front of the rear fenders, wheel wells, and rear of body in cars with rumble seats. The rumble seat area rain gutters just drained into the back of the car and hopefully out of the body in some holes provided. I hope you stay encouraged and that the worst of the rust has been detected. Your 1932 Dodge deserves the restoration work it is receiving. Chris
  2. Scott, I have resized to fit our forum. This shows what I was unable to see "under" John Doerfler's upholstery. It also shows shape of sheet metal augmenting the detail of the earlier two photos. I am guessing that there is a tacking strip that goes on the top edge that finishes the upholstery? Is this right and does the coupe have the same tacking strip? Thanks, Chrispost-86357-143141961154_thumb.jpg

  3. What is the same is the front edge that has a rolled edge in the sheet metal. In fact if I had a package shelf from a coupe I could make one for the convertible. Where your package shelf is about 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep (vertical), the convertible is about 5 1/2 inches deep. Looks like the rear window assembly is fairly complex. These are great pictures and they answer a lot of questions. Chris

  4. Tom, Made measurements at body shop this morning. The left dimension on the photo is 6 1/2 inch, the right dimension is 6 inches. Having said this one of these two brackets is bent as can be seen. I believe the upper iron in the photo is closest to being right in which case the left dimension is closer to be 0 inches. In looking at knobless' coupe it appears to be in line with the upper iron. I really would prefer test fitting my face bar to these brackets and positioning on frame horns to check this. Chris

  5. post-86357-143141952776_thumb.jpg The work has slowed a bit. You can see the rust damage that was hidden by "bondo" during the 70's redo. The patch panel is from Riley's Body Shop and Reproductions (aka Floyd's) in Kansas. He is a nice guy to work with. He also has a number of other patch panels for these 1933 and 1934 Plymouth and Dodge bodies. I also have the right and left lower cowl patch panels on order. When Steve at my body shop cuts and fits these I will post pictures. The package tray presents a bit of a dilemma as it is missing the front edge which stands about 5 inches tall. Does anyone have a good picture of these without upholstery that can show details enabling me to fabricate one? Is the coupe body the same? I do know from looking at John Doerfler's Convertible that it follows the contour of the rear seat back and that the rear seat back nests within this front edge when pushed back fully. John's car has the upholstery attached so it makes it a bit difficult to get a feel for the metal shape. I am especially interested in how the ends turn down and attach to the bottom of the package tray. Thanks, Chris

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  6. DodgeKCL, When you say center you mean the center of the hole where the electrical conduit comes in to the tail light stand? This would make the distance from the bottom of the stand to the fender lip a little bit less than 13 inches? If I have that right than what is distance to the center hole of the stand from either the left fender lip or the right edge of the fender? This will let me locate the stand exactly. Those hubcaps are from a 1932? The running boards are from a 1934 Plymouth with three running board brackets. The 1933 PD has only two running board brackets. I have both a 1933 and a 1934 gas tank apron.

  7. Before these rear fenders make their way to the restoration shop I would like input on the placement of the tail light stands. I think the passenger side has not ever had a tail light and I trust the location of the step pad holes. The driver side I think has been changed. I would like to fill the un wanted holes and have some type of template to locate the correct holes. Thanks in advance.post-86357-143141945542_thumb.jpg

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  8. Thanks for these great photos. They show a PD with the all chromed grille shell. Of interest is that on the lower part is appears to be chromed on the bead and the first reveal but than is painted black or body color on the very front edge. I also note the painted headlight buckets. Good luck with your restoration and welcome to the forum. There are at least two Plymouth PDs under restoration at this time, mine and another owned by Tom in the U.K. You have probably seen posts from both of us with questions and progress reports.

  9. post-86357-14314193875_thumb.jpgTom, Here are photos of the cover assembly for the front bumper bolts. These are applied to Plymouth and Dodges for at least 1933 and 1934, maybe other Chrysler cars and years. The ones I have are reproductions made by NC Industries in Sayer Pennsylvania. 570 888 6216. I have seen these painted black and chrome plated. I believe the black is correct for Plymouth. I will look at my photo's for a top view of the front irons. I may have to take these over the next few days. Chris

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  10. post-86357-143141936701_thumb.jpgHere are shots of the ones from my Plymouth PD. Both sets fit the bumper face bars that I have and the frame. The 1933 PD has a front bumper face bar that has a dip in the front. The front bumper bracket bolts to the holes in the end of the frame horns and is equipped with a two piece stamped metal cover that is usually missing. Hope this is helpful. Chris

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  11. Overall length 178 inches with bumpers, overall height 65 inches, overall width 69 1/2 inches. This per Special Interest Magazine June 1980 article on 1933 Plymouth PD Convertible Coupe. Should be same as your car within an inch or two. Hope this helps. Chris

  12. Here is photo of rubber mount and mounting hardware that enables cables and thermal element to pass through the firewall. Any consensus on which cables and what order? I am thinking the thermal element comes through the large hole. Candidates: choke, throttle, free wheeling, electrical cables, other? Thanks! post-86357-143141914334_thumb.jpg

  13. post-86357-143141904503_thumb.jpgThis is probably a better way to do this. The holes with circles are "suspect". These will need to be welded closed. There are a number of other holes that are nicely drilled and some dimples that I think are original. Any help in determining the "suspect holes" correctness is appreciated. As the restoration moves forward this firewall will be painted black and the holes will not show up well. We will see this again later on as we determine what the holes are for. Some are obvious others are not. Thanks, Chris
  14. post-86357-143141902704_thumb.jpgWork is progressing. We encountered a good deal of "bondo" in the cowl and wheel wells. The holes will be cut out with new sheet metal welded back in. Right now in the wheel wells all the rust and "bondo" are out and what you see is repair from the previous owner many years ago. The body man has a lot to do to put this back in order. As to the firewall. You knew this question was coming. Which of these holes do not belong? I know the two holes underneath the builders tags are not from Chrysler. The former owners mounted a horn relay or voltage relay on top of the plates. What other holes do not belong????? Enjoy, Chris

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  15. post-86357-14314189089_thumb.jpgI posted the colors on another thread also but include them here as well. These are PPG paints. Left photo is full sun, right photo is shade. They are both tans. The Chrysler Light Gray is on the left (used with Packard Ivory pin stripe and wheels) The Durode Gray is on the right used with Vermillion Red pin stripe and wheels. The Durode Gray has an olive tint to it. Both are attractive colors! Size of color chip is 5 x 7 inches. The cowl is shown with a clearer view of the 3944 stamped into it. Keiser31 believes this to be the body number. Would this mean the 3944th convertible coupe body manufactured?

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