1935EB
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Posts posted by 1935EB
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Almost forgot the tail light stands for 33 PD.
NC sells the one without the license plate bracket but are long out of stock on the ones with the license plate bracket.
I am wondering if the brackets for right and left are the same just the bracket is attached to driver side?
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Erick,
I bought the NC Industries mat back in the 90's. I do not know if they still sell it.
Thinking out loud the following parts are not easy to find:
For 33 PD
Door Handles including the locking style.
Door Handle escutcheon plates. Most originals are broken and cracked making them difficult to plate.
Rumble seat floor mat. I have not ever seen one, even originals.
Chris
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Thanks Erick,
Looks like I have enough parts to send off to have the mounts and rubber vulcanized. These photos show it very well.
There is also a bracket under the transmission with a block of rubber on it called a steady rest pad. Do you have a photo of it and dimensions of the steel plate the rubber is attached to? I may have to make one and use it as a core to have the rubber vulcanized to it.
Chris
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Hi Erick,
Thanks, I knew they went to the PD but I did not know where. Do they mount vertical or horizontal as this will save me some time figuring how they attach.
My first guess is vertical in the center of the door?
Chris
Having more fun with old cars than should be allowed.
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Another area to look at are the rear engine mounts. I have attached photos of mine and also a copy of the image in my 1933 Plymouth PD instruction manual which shows these. Mine were equipped with rubber made from old tire carcases. Look at Daves photo on page 9, these are the brackets that hold these to the clutch housing. Which parts get the rubber vulcanized to them?
Do these look like the right ones for 1933 PD?
Thanks, Chris
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Dodge KCL and others,
Thanks for the comments on the muffler and tailpipe hangars. Not an easy subject to get good original photos of as these were replaced with after market parts through the years.
Chris
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Today we assembled the windshield assembly without glass to the car to enable the convertible top maker to get his dimensions etc for making the top.
The frame is composed of pot metal pieces that are chrome plated. Excuse the fingerprints and smudges on these pieces as they all really do look better than they do in the photos.
The lower frame castings were assembled to the cowl. They will be removed later to facilitate painting but we wanted to get the windshield on so that the convertible top could be fitted.
As can be seen the two castings are joined in the center with steel strap. I thought this piece was lost when I got the car but I later found it in a box of junk and parts that came with the car.
There is a gasket (made by Paul Bowling at Buckeye Rubber Parts that goes between the castings and the cowl. We left this off for the present. The large castings are attached with screws on the lock pillar and through the top of the cowl.
We than attached the two posts. The post on one side or the other needs to come out again to insert the top of the windshield frame. The thing I noticed here is that during the plating process every hole seems to get filled with hard crud and I had to run tap drills by hand and than had to re tap each hole. We dripped primer down inside the top of the windshield frame to resist future corrosion. It is a wonder these did not all rust out from the inside over the years.
Three holes are on the outside of the windshield frame to accommodate the rear view mirror bracket and a single rubber bumper in the center to keep the windshield frame from rubbing on the cowl in the down position. Two holes on the inside for the rear view mirror bracket only.
When we went to put the wood front top bow on we discovered that the chrome plating process can add material to parts. The two studs would no longer fit into the two holes in the end brackets. We ground these out to a larger diameter to get them to fit. Also the reproduction bow had the two brackets a little too narrow and we moved them out a little.
Overall we are now at a spot where the top can be made for the car. We also have worked out most of the assembly issues for remounting this windshield frame after finishing the color coat. Most readers of this thread will be relieved to see the firewall is now gloss black and not flat black as before.
Thanks for your patience with this progress. It takes longer than you think.
Chris
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I know you have heard it before but the issue is these are volunteer organizations. Many times needed upgrades that would allow you a successful log in could be changed easily but the website probably has a member or a members friend who is the administrator.
With all the Dodge AACA members that log in to this website everyday I am surprised no one from the DBC website has seen this and can help.
Chris
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Ply33. So that is the motorcycle tube heavy duty that has the metal valve stem? Thanks for finding this. As to cluttered desks and workbenches we are all probably in the same boat.
DodgeKCL. Those were my thoughts as well on the robustness of motorcycle tubes. Also a motorcycle and rider is a lot of weight. Not half of what a car would weigh but still bikes are heavy. I gave up riding years ago when I got married and had children. For sentimental reasons I still keep the motorcycle rating on my drivers license.
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Thanks Bob and Todd,
The guy's at Lucas indicated to use metal stems as this could solve the problem of being too short etc.
An offset stem is only 5 degrees offset and I think they should work. That's why I am asking for folks who have done this.
That picture is worth a thousand words. This is a motorcycle tube with a metal stem. The washer is on the outside.
If you find the manufacturer please let us know. 550 in metric would be about 140 mm.
Chris
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NC Industries in Sayer Pennsylvania. They have done these in the past and might have some in stock.
Welcome aboard and show us some pictures of your '33.
Chris
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I am purchasing tires for my 1933 Plymouth project. It will use the wire wheels and an inner tube with the center valve stem (TR-6). Offset valve stems (TR-4) as used on Fords and Chevys' are available. The people at some large tire suppliers say that no one makes an automotive tube for 17 inch wheels and with center style valve stems.
My questions are these:
Could I use an offset style valve stem?
Some have suggested a motor cycle tube with center valve stem. The valve stem is smaller and shorter than a car. What problems might I encounter with these?
Your help is appreciated.
Chris
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34pnut,
Mine is the 1933 Plymouth PD Conv Coupe in this forum. There are 1933 and 1934 Dodge Conv coupes over on the Dodge forum. As you know they are very similar cars.
Glad you like it.
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34pnut,
Welcome aboard. That 1934 Convertible Coupe looks great! You will find a lot of help on this forum and the Plymouth Owners Club Forum as well.
Chris
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Erick,
One more favor for the rest of us restoring these 33's. Can you photograph the brackets that hold the exhaust system to the frame? This would help me as well as others. Thanks in advance.
Chris
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Those covers are at the body shop. I will photograph as soon as I visit again. I thought sedans had them as well.
Also Erick, thanks for these informative photos. I know the hood lace, against which the hood rubs, is attached with nickel plated split rivets on the front. Your photo shows what looks to be split rivets also on cowl? This makes sense to me. All my Chevies use split rivets on front and "wire on" on the cowl. The difference is the Chevies have a loop with a bolt that draws up and tightens the "wire on". The Plymouth has no way to do this on cowl that I can see. Split rivets look to be correct, any other input on this?
Thanks, Chris
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Sheet metal is being fitted. The rumble seat lid is held by the big hinges. You can adjust the side to side with the elaborate special attaching bolts provided. The front to back is accommodated by the back of the hinge where it is bolted to the rumble lid. Other than that you depend on the original body builder (Budd) for the "flush fit" to the surface of the body.
Rear fenders are looking good. Don't laugh at the condition of these old tires. I am glad to have something to roll this car around on. These need to be rotated clockwise or counterclockwise to line up with running board and gas tank apron.
I need to drill holes in the fenders to mount the tail light stands. Members of this forum have supplied this data and it is appreciated.
Aligning the doors took quite some time as Steve worked it one shim and body bolt (same as Chevy's) at a time to get the doors to move up and down in front and fill the space. We still need to tweak them both about 1/8 inch further to the front. Anyone who has moved a body off of and than back onto a frame has gone through this and knows what a time consuming exercise it is.
I have put the window regulators and door latch hardware in place so that the upholsterer can make his door panel including the correct placement of the holes for the door levers and window crank handles. The holes around the inside perimeter of the door are for upholstery clips. The regulators and door latch mechanisms are not restored yet but they do move freely.
Scott Bonesteel provided a missing metal strip that holds the top of the door reveal to the door itself. It came to me with a little more rust than is on it now. This reveal holds the top of the upholstery panel in place.
More stuff later and I hope this has been as informative and entertaining for you as it has been for me.
Chris
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Keen25,
Thanks, when you say "metal "u" channel" do you mean this is in the recess of the windshield top bow that touches the top of the windshield frame? This is the way my early 1930's Chevs have it. The Center Bow at hinge pillars has the strip with the rubber in in. This is also on the front windshield posts. There is also a smaller one about 2 inches long that mounts to body just below the this one in front. Dave at Dodge City has these strips as reproduction parts and they are quite nice. I do not know if he has the rubber pieces but they look to be available from the folks Restoration Specialties and Supply Co in Windber PA. www.restorationspecialties.com
Chris
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The Convertible Top Irons represent a slight challenge. The only piece of chrome on them are the latching handles. They are attached with heavy rivets but are in themselves fragile. For the moment I am electing to paint them silver (Aluminum clad) rather than remove them and risk damage to otherwise irreplaceable parts. I am using a front convertible top bow made by Al Smith years ago and it appears to hold the castings well and it fits the top curve of the windshield frame nicely. In my correspondence with folks on these I am told that there is a rubber seal between the top of the windshield frame and the front top bow. On my Chevrolet there is a sheet metal cover but on the Plymouth it looks like the canvas is wrapped around the bow and than the long rubber gasket is placed inside the milled out slot. Al Smith suggested this as well when I discussed it with him in the 90's. Input from 1933 and 1934 Plymouth and Dodge convertible owns would be helpful and appreciated.
The general consensus is that these irons are painted gloss black with the chrome plated latch handles. You had to upgrade to a Dodge to get the top irons fully plated. The 1934 Plymouths are not painted black but are shown in the parts book to be "white metal". Does this mean Zinc or Cadmium plated??) The Plymouth and Dodge top irons for both 1933 and 1934 are otherwise the same set.
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Thank you John, and the same to all. Chris
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
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Thanks John,
I agree. My seat frame did not come from my convertible. I bought it at a swap meet. The metal on the back of my seat back will be covered in dark brown vinyl down to the point where the carpet is. The one in my photo's are from a 4 door as I had to buy the front seat cushions and frame and the rear cushions all in a package.
Chris
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Here are the before photos of the seat frame. Note it looks like it has Bedford Cord upholstery. I was told it was from a 4 door sedan. The convertibles came with this or the leather vinyl combination. The cost was the same for either one. The convertible does not have rolls and pleats in the seat cushion bottom or back. Instead there is just one seam front to back up the center. I am guessing that the convertible has carpet on the lower seat back as this is where rumble seat passengers would kick this seat. No panel appears to be between the front seat and rumble area as there is the case in coupes. As mentioned earlier if you know this to be incorrect please let me know soon.
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Thanks for your patience. We had a very busy Thanksgiving Holiday, etc.
Work has begun on the interior or at least getting ready for the interior. The seat frame is from a 4 Door Sedan which is the same for coupes, 4 doors and the convertible. The Convertible has no separation between the back of the seat and the rumble area. The coupe does have a panel. On convertibles I have seen, not that many, there is no separation. If someone knows otherwise please add your comments, soon. The 1934 Plymouth and 1933 and 1934 Dodges are similar. The lower half of this seat back had carpet, the top half was upholstery. This convertible will have the leather trim which means dark brown vinyl on seat frame, front and back. Lower half of seat back carpet. Kick panels, door panels rumble area panels all dark brown vinyl. Rumble seat cushions dark brown vinyl. The front seat cushion and back rest is genuine leather. Package tray is covered in dark brown vinyl.
The seat tracks need to be sandblasted, disassembled, and soaked in penetrating oil to get them to work. These get bolted to the floorboard. You can see where the seat adjusting handle is broken off. I have seen this to be the case on a lot of cars and I think it was a design weakness. I have nickel plated the other part of the adjusting handle and will reattach it by using a splint that will be unnoticeable and make it stronger.
I will post more seat frame pictures including the original before cleaning up and painting as time allows.
Chris
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Dave,
Thanks for posting the pictures.
I can attest to the 1933 Plymouth cars using the ones where the spring fits into a cylindrical hole. This matches my photo's above. I always thought the ones without the hole were for trucks? The 1934 guy's will have to weigh in on this one.
The springs look like they should have a felt wick in them to keep lubricant like graphite in the pocket.
Chris
Paint colors for 1933 Plymouth PD Convertible Coupe
in Plymouth
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Hi Erick,
Thanks for these great photo's.
As your car is being disassembled you might have some good photo's of the following:
Couple shots of your package tray especially the front vertical section?
How did the grille attach at the top to the grille shell? I think there are two vertical "L" brackets that go from the top of the grille and go back and rest against the radiator. These are about 3 inches long. Is there rubber on the end that touches the radiator? Is there an additional bracket that holds the top center to the radiator emblem attaching hardware? A photo would be helpful here.
Thanks in advance.
Chris