Foxlovescars

All: I will take RivNut (Ed's) suggestion on purchasing a 27F which will put the posts further back on the top of the battery and not be as tall as a group 24F. Thanks again, Frank

I'm sorry if I confused you. The new battery tray SITS 1/4" higher when secured in the original car's battery tray that is still in place. In the Service Manual, the dimensions of the original battery (group 27) are listed with height at 8 13/16" and are very close to the underside of the hood when closed to start with. I will switch the battery over to a group 27 when I find one that's a little less tall. I am unable to use the new top brace that I ordered from CARS on the group 24 that came in this car as well. Just to be on the safe side, I also ordered a pair of the black rubber battery cable end protectors from CARS. They work well to insulate the top post connectors. Thanks for all the help. Frank

Ed: What plastic tray are you referring to? The original tray is welded on top of the inner fender platform and it is steel, and my replacement tray is a heavily-painted metal with large "+"s cut into the bottom for drainage and running bolts through. Because the platform itself has pitting and rust I did not want to cut out the existing tray if I didn't have to. Frank

1965 Riviera 401 cu in with a/c. Bought my car with a 24F battery in the tray. Question #1--is this the correct battery group for my car? Question #2--had rust-acid damage in the tray. I fitted a new tray on top of the old one (higher by only 1/4", but now the top terminals are dangerously close to the hood when closed). Has anyone else encountered this same problem and solved it by using another group battery that is not as tall? Thanks, Frank O'Donnell GDI Restorations Troy, VA

Jim and Cheezeman: I am using your information and the pictures you provided to have a welder build me a single cross bar to fit between the front arms of my lift. I can match the frame lift points in the rear with the arms with no problems. I will then be able to use the 5" lift extensions that came with my lift in the rear to keep the entire X-frame level with the Buick on the lift and the front cross bar in place. Thanks for your input, Frank P.S. Jim: I like having a two post lift because it gives me more access to the wheel wells, and the engine cavity to do the undercarriage cleaning on these old cars.

Tom, Ed & Dick: I will be in touch with all of you. Thank you very much for the support, Frank

Rob J: I saw the video I think you're referring to on You Tube from "Auto Maniac" (time 12 seconds). Very nice. There is also a video of the man from Rancho Riviera showing how to test the motor for proper torque. That's how I found out I needed to have mine rebuilt. Frank

Jim & Pyntre: Spoke with S & M Electro-Tech today and they no longer repair the clamshell motors. They can't get the correct parts for the micro-switches anymore. Greg asked if I would put the word out on the ROA as they still get calls all the time about repairs. So now I am still in need of a rebuild service. Frank

Chuck: Were these fabricated or are they available from someone to purchase? Frank

Bernie: Thanks for your input. Frank

Smithbrother: First call I made. Eagle doesn't make any kind of an adapter. The contact I spoke with had no idea what a 60's GM "x-body" frame was. I scoured the internet for a lift company that sells an adapter and could not find a single one. Mohawk Lifts sells platforms that attach to the arms that hold plates you drive your tires on to, but that's the best I could do so far. Frank

I have an Eagle symmetric two-post lift in my garage (all four arms same length). The extension arms of the lift do not extend far enough to fit safely under the correct jacking points of the x-frame at the front of the car. Putting the car backwards on the lift creates the same problem. For those of you that have a two-post lift, how did you solve the problem? Frank O'Donnell 1965 Riviera

Jim: Great. I purchased a correct speaker coil for my '65 Corvette from this same company and was very pleased with the service. Thanks, Frank

Jim: Thanks. I'll try the R43S first and see how they look after a couple of months. Frank

1965 Riviera--401 with a/c The service manual calls for ac-delco 44S spark plugs. That number has been discontinued and their web site calls for 43S as the replacement. If you are using ac/delco plugs, is this the number you are using? (granted the replacement plug would be R43S) Frank O'Donnell Charlottesville, VA

Guys: Next item on the restoration list is my clamshell headlight motor. Would like your recommendation for an individual or company that has done this work reliably for you in the past. Motor tests as bad, both contact switches are good. Thank you, Frank O'Donnell Charlottesville, VA

Thanks for all the great replies. I called Lares and they do the whole rebuild, cleaning, repaint and testing for $89. Can't beat that. Turnaround time is 2-3 weeks. Easier than the headaches of properly rebuilding it myself and everything will still appear original. Thanks, Frank

Guys: Who have you used in the past to rebuild your power steering pumps that you were satisfied with the results? Would like to use an individual that is dependable, has good communication and completes the work when they promised it. Frank O'Donnell 1965 Riviera Troy, VA

Jim: Decided to take your advice and only replace the shaft seal behind the pulley. Have now spent two days on and off trying to find a way to secure the pulley and turn the shaft nut counterclockwise to remove it. Tried vice grips attached to pulley perimeter forced against the bracket; only succeeded in bending the pully. A friend lent me his "master tight" tool that is a handle with an adjustable belt that fits on the pulley with a flat spot for leverage. Obviously I should have taken weight-training in college because the pulley still turns with the wrench. Any ideas here before I just take the whole pump off and put it in a vice? Frank

Chuck: The mirror I purchased is an exact duplicate of the original that was in my car. My '65 mirror did not have a color-keyed trim around the perimeter. It was all polished chrome out to the edges. Do you have a close-up picture of a '65 that has the border you are referring to? Frank

Solved my own problem! Narrowed my search of 35,195 "rear view mirror" entries on Ebay down to 135 entries by changing the search to read "antique mirror parts". Up pops what looks like the exact reproduction 10" rear view mirror with the correct black day/night twist knob for $57 plus $8.50 shipping. Comes from a company called "baileysgarage". I will post again after I receive the mirror just to let you know if it is exactly like the original. Frank

Hey guys: 1965 Riviera--The glass in my day/night inside rear view mirror is badly deteriorated. What do most members do to correct this problem in their Rivieras? The CARS Inc. catalog shows an exact replacement on page 53, but it has been discontinued. I found numerous day/night mirrors on Ebay that appear close in style, but not original. Can someone recommend a person or company that you have used successfully in the past to replace the glass? Frank O'Donnell Charlottesville, VA

TOM: Thank you for responding. I did the smart thing last night and ran the car outside in the dark. I shined a flashlight on the front of the pump and could see the fluid shooting out from the front of the pulley shaft onto the pulley as it spun. Rebuilding the power steering pump will be my next challenge. Frank

JIM: Thanks for the quick response and informative answer. I'll order the rebuild kit and do everything at once while I have the unit off the car. I still need the correct answer to "what IS the correct level" for the reservoir to be at with a warm engine. Can you help me with that one as well? Thanks again, Frank

1965 Riviera with a 401. Just purchased this single family-owned car in very original condition. Power steering reservoir looked low so I added Dextron. The pump is now slinging fluid out the front of the unit onto the pulley which is now drenching the inner fender. I have continued to remove fluid past the level of where I originally added it and still have the slinging problem. In reading the 1965 Buick Service Manual it states, "maintain level with Buick power steering fluid" but never tells you what that "level" is. Now, with a hot engine, the fluid level inside the reservoir is well below the rounded top of the pump casing itself. So, my real question is, WHAT IS THE CORRECT FLUID LEVEL? How full is full? Also as a side note, the cap is not leaking. I replaced the original cap (rusty) with a new one; then actually put the old one back on just in case the better seal was causing the leak...but no change. Thanks in advance, Frank O'Donnell Charlottesville, VA