Foxlovescars

Hi Guys: Looking for anyone that would like to caravan going west to the 2014 Olds Nationals. I live in central VA and could join up with you anywhere off of I-64 or I-81. I am flexible on which day to leave. I can be reached at 540-819-5235. Thanks, Frank O'Donnell Troy, VA

RIV OWNERS: Check out "MSN Autos" today (5/26/2014) to read the article which names your Buick Riviera as one of the 15 most beautiful American cars ever. http://editorial.autos.msn.com/15-most-beautiful-american-cars-of-all-time?icid=autos_4653#13 Frank GDI Restorations Troy, VA 1965 Silver Cloud / Blk Vyl Top / Black

UPDATE: Clocking the alternator made no difference. Replaced the battery with a new one and the problem cleared up. The battery tested fine under load, but was still bad after only 22 months of service. Could not prove if the battery went bad and started the whole "charges sometime, overcharges other times" problem or whether the battery failed as a result of the bad voltage regulator and/or the old alternator. The charging system seems to be functioning fine now. Thank you again for all your support and seasoned ideas. Frank O'Donnell Troy, VA

'65 Riviera, 401 engine--I can't remember where the thin metal collar that holds the bulb assembly, goes, on the threaded cone of the ignition switch. With the exterior lights on, I can't seem to position it where you can actually see any light coming from the bulb through the dash. Does anyone have a picture or an illustration with the light collar, the brass washer and the silver washer assembled correctly before it is installed through the dash and secured with the chrome indented nut? Thanks, Frank in Virginia

Although I had an electrical shop check the charging system and it was okay, my two year old battery continues to slowly "bleed" battery acid from under the top caps when the car is running. When I installed the alternator, I had to install it 180 degrees (upside down from the previous original alternator position) rather than exactly the way the original came off the car. BY ANY CHANCE, would this cause a problem? The connecting wires to the alternator were long enough to allow for the installation reversal. Thanks, Frank

What is the actual charging voltage "working range" that a 401 with a/c should have? My car usually sits around 12.30 volts when I go to start it, and will sometimes climb as high as 14.50 volts while I am driving (not using the heater, headlights or a/c system). Thanks, Frank

Mitch: What do you mean by "2 cans of B-12 in each tank"? That's a new term for me. Frank

RivNut: Your question is good. I just have to get the car running well enough first, so I can set the dwell and timing and do a compression test. I know the valve cover gaskets are shot, so rings and other gaskets are probably finished as well. Thanks.

I did have sooty spark plugs using the R43Ss so I am switching over to the R45S plugs as Bernie suggested. But I have a follow up question for the group. It appears I have some oil getting into the plug holes and onto the plug tips. Should I be using the silver ring spark plug gaskets that come with the plugs in my 1965 401 engine or leaving them off? Second question is: if I should use the silver ring gaskets, should I be turning the spark plugs a little tighter (torqueing them) more than normal to insure no oil seeps in? Thanks, Frank

Buddy: Thanks for taking the time to respond to my question about why the "enter" key on my computer keyboard would not work while I was trying to key in text for threads or to make a reply. The "enter" key only became active when I switched to "Basic Editor". Thank you very much for the tip! Frank

[1965 Riviera 401 with A/C] Weeks ago I drove the car and the battery (6 months old) started boiling and overflowing. I replaced the original voltage regulator with another (mechanical type) regulator and the car ran fine for a while. Same problem occured again, so I replaced the alternator and installed a new electronic regulator, just in case the first one I replaced had fried. Now, when I rev the engine or accelerate the car the alternator light stays on but goes off when the car is just running. I have a charging meter that plugs into the lighter receptacle and reads outs what is happening as you drive. When driving, my reading is around 14.5 volts, which from what I read is normal. The alternator light stays on sometimes even with the car is in park; with the engine off and the key in the ignition. Has anyone ever experienced this situation before? Also, do you think there is a possibility that my ignition switch could be bad and be the cause of the problem? Thanks, Frank

I researched the forum and could find very little current information. I do not want to lower my car, Has anyone replaced their front AND rear shocks lately and had good results with the brand/type they used? I do not want to lower my car, just replace the age-old shocks that came with the car when I bought it. I have read here on the forum that gas shocks are a must. Your thoughts and stories please. (Also, as a side note, can someone please tell me which Icon in the message screen I hit so that my "enter" key works again when I am typing a message? I haven't been able to skip lines for a while now.) Thanks, and thanks, Frank

I have bought ALL my tires from The Tire Rack since the 90's. Prices are good and when you learn how to really use the web site you can answer ANY question on your own and decide which is the best tire for your particular type of use. First you decide WHICH type of tire best suits you needs. Second, you review Tire Rack's suggestions based on their ratings scale. Third, you read the customer reviews for any tire you are interested in. Last, you compare prices and then make a choice based on how much you want to spend. I still can't believe people tell me they are afraid to buy their tires online! You have almost every major brand to choose from and compare, not just the brands your local service/tire store stocks or can order. You order the tires and they are sent directly to the approved service shop in your town that YOU choose, so you don't have to squeeze them all into your car. Installation price maximums are printed out for you on the bill so you know exactly how much tire mounting and balancing is going to be ahead of time. It's like Paypal on Ebay. The system is that simple.

No it won't, not even close.

Thanks Tom. The pictures saved me lots of time and frustration. Just like getting the heater core out from under the dash; it only comes out ONE way.

Since the clamshell headlight motor was removed when I bought the car, I am trying to find the right way to get the repaired motor back into place on the car. I have the car on a lift and can't seem to maneuver the motor up between the car frame and the lower bumper because the casing is so wide. Can someone tell me the best way to work it inside against the front of the radiator to bolt it on? Thanks, Frank

Thanks for the help guys. Took both alternators to a local shop and they had the pulleys changed and back in my hands in 5 minutes. Told me it wasn't worth writing up a ticket to charge me! Life is good in Virginia. Frank

I have access to an impact wrench, but how do you keep the fan wheel from not turning and damaging the blades? Frank

1965 Riviera 401 with A/C. Time to replace the alternator. Could not find a vendor selling a double pulley 61 amp. Bought a nice Delco that looks original with a single pulley. What is the trick for getting the pulley nut off the alternator core bolt? To start, yesterday I sprayed penetrating lubricant on the shaft to loosen the nut. Assuming the nut comes off counter-clockwise, I used a socket wrench with a hex socket to hold the core bolt steady, while trying to remove the 15/16 inch nut with a closed-end wrench. It will not budge. In fact, I couldn't get the single pulley off of the NEW alternator. Is there an old-school method for getting off these alternator nuts? Thanks, Frank

Hi guys: '65 Riviera. Need to remove the rear seats to fish out the seat belts hidden underneath. I know I read an e-mail or article with the correct step-by-step process and pictures on back seat removal recently somewhere. Can someone refresh my memory? Thanks, Frank from Virginia

Jim and Paul: Thanks for the information. Frank

1965 Riviera 401 with a/c Time to replace my original alternator. Before I started I wanted to get some information. Is there any way to unbolt and pull the a/c compressor up and out of the way (without having to open the system and capture the Freon) so I can get to and replace the alternator? As always, Thanks! Frank in Virginia

Jim: Thanks again for the quick reply. Can you tell me exactly what the front cover of your assembly manual says as its title? Thanks. Frank

I restored two cars previously; a 1965 Corvette and a 1968 Olds Cutlass. In both cases I was able to purchase the factory Assembly Manual (AIM) for both cars. I HAVE purchased the '65 Buick Service Manual which includes the 49000 series and the '65 Body Manual for Riviera. Was there a AIM printed for the '65 Riviera that is available somewhere? There is nothing like having an AIM to refer to when it comes to disassembly of a system, or restoring something back to original. Thanks, Frank

Gene: I assume you mean Lexington? That's great. Thank you very much. Frank