Dodgy6
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Posts posted by Dodgy6
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Or you could read post #1 in this link... http://forums.aaca.org/f143/newer-members-how-post-photos-328788.html
Oh brother, not this again....
You know what.....someone should do something about this.....
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Pictures get people more excited than large text....
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Ross,
Your version looks steel. Mine are aluminum or pot metal. I included a couple photos. Not sure of the difference or even if they are interchangeable. Anyone know?
Second picture shows the pot metal that just feel apart.
[ATTACH]131677[/ATTACH][ATTACH]131678[/ATTACH]
You could measure the width of the bolt holes - that might give us half an idea if they are interchangeable. From your photos I wonder if those holes are offset like mine are? And perhaps measure the diameter and maybe some lenghts on the shaft too. The worm gear on your dizzy shaft looks like it would line up with the worm gear that is still in my moubting bracket. The teeth are rusted to the point of no return though, but it still turns freely.
Or just take a punt and get me to sent it to you. Just remember it isn't in mint condition either!
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When did I stop
He who has the most tools wins....
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Well, I've gone ahead and done it! This thread is not a complete, headline news story, YET. As most may know, I have 1925 Dodge touring car, with no top saddle hardware. Many owners are missing these too. I plan to lower the top in nice weather! Some never do. I now have a mock-up prototype saddle stud that will fit both sides of the body. It is secured by one 1/4"x 20 NC hex head screw and washer on the inside of body. It is keyed to lock into the body socket, made at an angle, since the body socket is almost at a 45 degree angle, rearward, to the side of the car. The protruding end will accept a black iron saddle with a set screw, leather liner, with black leather belt straps, as Ford used in the mid twenties. Overall length of the new studs is 5-1/2". I KNOW... these are NOT what the originals looked like-- BUT they'll WORK. My prints are done for the parts, I'm in contact with a local machine shop to do the job. I have no idea what it will cost me yet. The first set will be extensively tested. If ANY of you feel you may want a set, LET ME KNOW! The shop will make up sets of them while they are in progress making mine---I'm not going to get rich selling these---Just want to break even and help some of us out. But be patient, it may take a while. Best to all, Pete.
Of coarse we require pics of said items when possible....
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Ross, would be interested in piece where the distributor mounts if in good shape. I have one that feel apart on me.
You can have it if you wan't it for the cost of shipping. Its not in great shape.
Its had a weld repair job done on it at some point - and not a very good one by the looks. There is also a chunk out of the drive mechansim but if you only need the housing then it may be salvagable....PM me if you are still interested.
Ross
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Hi Hchris. Doing a quick search just now came up with this:
http://forums.aaca.org/f143/1936-dodge-hood-hinge-retainer-267529.html
I don't know if you have already seen this one, but it may be of interest, especially from post #20 - not sure what came of it....
I'd love to see what yours looks like and how damaged. I'm in the same boat, albeit different year and model, ('29 DA). My cowl-end retainer is busted out on one side of the hole where the hinge slots into. Mine may be totally different to yours. I'm not even sure what material my retainer is made from yet. I'll put up a pic - not great, but the best I have now, and it is too cold, dark and scary to go out to the shed and get a better one! Its the black piece down the bottom with the two rusty screws in it for those unsure of what the hell they are looking at.
I'd be interested in know how you get on with this as I am also in Oz. Best of luck with it, Ross.
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Just to sort out the DuPont Bulletins and Color Sheets :
Starting in 1931 for Chrysler Corporation, Bulletins were issued with the list of models and colours available, but with no colour chips. The Color Sheets had the colour chips and formulas, but no applications.
At the time Chrysler had no set model year, with the Engineering Department following the calendar year (sort of) and the marketing people following the advertised model year, which began in July / August and ended the following June / July.
The first set model year for Chrysler was 1933, which is why DuPont did not label their sheets with 1931 or 1932, but did starting with the 1933 model year.
For Dodge, Bulletin 1 covered the 1931 model year, Bulletin 2 for 1932 and Bulletin 3 for 1933. By 1935 the Bulletins had the colour chips and formulas and a listing of the colours used with fender, stripe and wheel information. With that, the Color Sheets were dropped.
So, referring to the DuPont Color Sheets posted earilier, the first sheet is tied to Bulletin 2, 1932 models, and is side B of page 3. The second sheet is side A of page 3.
The third and fourth sheets are linked to Bulletin 1, 1931 models, the third sheet being side A of page 1 and the fourth side B of page 1.
The fifth sheet posted is for Bulletin 1, 1931 models, and is side B of page 2.
The final sheet is linked to Bulletin 3, 1933 models, and is side A of page 4.
I have attached a sample of the Bulletins, this one being Chrysler Bulletin No 2 for the 1932 models. Sorry, nothing for Dodge.
Also, for those who are interested in what is missing, the second sheet is side A of page 2 which covers the 1931 models. The last is side B of page 4, for the 1933 models.
For Australian models, especially if the assembly and painting was done in Australia, the colours may be completely different from the U.S. The Canadian Chrysler and GM operations used unique Canadian colours for years.
Thanks Chrycoman. It's always good when you poke your head in here.
That's interesting what you say about the Australian models. I had thought, and said as much in the "Australian Histroy" thread we have going, that they must be painted in Aus seeing the assembly was done here and had wondered if there would be a colour variation to US vehicles.
I guess if I wanted to take my particular case to the next level and try for authentic colour as she rolled out of TJ Richards assembly plant, then I will need to search locally for more specific info.
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Thanks for the sharing information of any parts that interchange. These are always good facts to know.
No prob!
In all reality you could prob take that parts list down the local hardware and come up with the same matches.
The disappointment was palpable on my end
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choose not to comment
Well, you could at least take some of the blame!
Thank-you anyway Jason
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So, in an endeavour to find out if any parts from the Plymouth "U" gearbox that I have will be worth hanging onto in case they are also common to the DA's gearbox, I checked the part numbers from both vehicles to see if there were any matches.
It turns out there are a few that are also used in the DA:
# 33238 Gearshift lever locating pin
# 50652 Mainshaft flange nut washer
# 103320 Main drive pinion bearing retainer screw lockwasher
# 103387 Mainshaft flange nut cotter pin
# 103868 Drain plug (Canadian built only)
As the title of this thread implies, not very interesting!!!
I wouldn't feel too bad if you choose not to comment.
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Sadly, the farm which was a truly beautiful place where I spent a lot of my childhood, has all been sold off.
Sounds all too familiar. The farm is unfortunately on the market right now. My Uncle, who is 70 now, can no longer keep the place going and there is no alternative but to sell up. I would love to take it over but $1.25 million is a bit of a stretch! Very sad, as my family on that side were one of the pioneering families of the area and built the place from scratch.
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Dodgy, you might have guessed, this silly old Pom has no idea what a wool bale stencil is except it must have something to do with sheep!! I will have to go look it up somewhere unless you give me a bit more to go on - I'm intrigued !!
So basically after the sheep are shorn the wool is classed for strength, colour and crimp then put into a wool baling press with similar fleeces of the same class. The baling press then compresses the wool into a large, square, sack material bale a bit over a meter cubed in size. All this is done on-site in the shearing shed. The bale is then taken to a wool buyers market and auctioned for a price.
So how do you keep track of which bale comes from which farm so the grower can be paid after the bale has been auctioned off? The grower marks the bale with a stencil and paint. Usally a property name is used as was done in the case of my Great, great Grandfather. I have called my place the same name as his property and am using the original stencil as a name plaque on the front wall.
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That crankshaft deelio rusting out like that is a first for me
Don't you know its called a "dog" Jason.
Anyway, it has rusted from the inside out and I'm guessing where the hole is was lying at the bottom so water would just sit there and rot it. She must have been this way for a fair while without any protection from the elements - that thread would be 3mm thick. I had to put a BIG pipe wrench with plenty of leverage on the nut to get it loose. A few more years neglect and it would probably sheared right off inside the crank shaft, so I guess I got a bit lucky.
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For me, car restoration is all about doing as much of it myself as I can and if the end result is not quite as professional as it could be, then that is not going to trouble me. I like to do a good job; and I will give it my best shot - but my aim is to return a car to the road; not to win prizes. One thing; I try to keep things original if possible and if the original is beyond repair then I like it to be as authentic as possible.
Ray.
I'm in this camp Ray. Anything that doesn't require specialised equipment I'll have a crack at. A great way to learn and appreciate how the things were done in the first place.
I recently restored an old wool bale stencil that was made by my great, great Grandfather. I made a duplicate copy so I could stencil a few things of my own. In making the new one I really put myself in his shoes and wondered how he managed to achieve the result he did with the materials and hand tools of the day.
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I think what you have there is an example of "American Triplex Chain". A quality item.
I expect you can get another "crankshaft starting jaw" (or "dog" as we Poms might say.) If you can't; you could try making another one if you have access to a lathe. Perhaps our friend Machinist Bill could give you some guidance if you need any.
Have you decided to repair your engine?
Ray.
At this stage my plan will be to get another engine. I'm just missing or need to replace too many parts to go chasing them individually, so the "new" one will more than likely the engine that gets this truck going - and hopefully it will have a "dog" attatched! I'll hang on to this block though. If it can be repaired it would be nice to have the original block back in the car but it all costs $$$.
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Just about finished stripping all I can off the motor until I get it onto an engine stand. Raining here solidly so I don't want to churn up the yard with the tractor so I may have to wait a few days to lift the engine out of the chassis.
I also tore down the clutch and got everything freed up and moving again. I got a bit of a fright when the corrosion holding the clutch driving disc in finally let go. The power in the compressed clutch springs jumped the whole backing plate off the bench a couple of inches!
I found a couple of things while stripping this motor worth noting. One was the cranking nut or "crankshaft starting jaw" as it is officially termed. I'll let the pictures do the talking on that. The other thing was the timing chain - I really wasn't expecting something so beautiful amidst all the rust, gunk and carnage! A real work of art.
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As wheels interest me too, (I have none and will need some), I did a little search. I came across this one from NZ.
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No matter what shop you bring it too and no matter what kind of money you are farming out you have to remember that chances are in this day and age nuthin is more important on that bodymans ( maybe not soo much the painter because his end isnt quite as extensive if the bodyman is decent ) mind than gettin it done and over with so he can move onto greener dollar bills.
I couldn't agree more. Professionals are only called "professionals" because they get paid for what they do and have some sort of training behind them. The customer expects a professional result as a consequence. However there are good and bad professionals, we all know that. Being in a trade myself, it all comes down to money mostly. Having the boss breathing down your neck because money is tight to get something finished is a great incentive to walk away from a job and not be totally satisified with the finished product. Unfortunately, modern times mean "old fashioned" service is exactly that - old fashioned. Its still out there, but harder to find and your probably going to pay extra for it.
Do your research and ask to see previous work or talk to previous customers if you can. That's a good way to put the odds in your favour for a satisfactory outcome.
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You need to do a lot better than that to wind ME up, mate.
:confused::confused::confused:
Hmmmm....A thick skinned POM. Who woulda thunk it?
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Dodgy, the only reason I posted the Triumph reservoir is that it sounded like you might want a temporary fix and this seemed rather inexpensive.....I'd still call Tom or Cindy Myers to see if they have one that is actually for a DA....also, went to the other post and responded. Good luck w/ the search!
Hehe, my car would need a whole lot of temporary fixes to get it on the road.
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It's British , but it might work, not sure of diameter.
Triumph TR3 TR3A Brake Clutch Fluid Reservoir Can OEM iii | eBay
Thamks Bob. Brackets are certainly salvagable. Cap maybe - the thread is squashed a bit so it could be tricky.
Looking at the relationship of the cap to the top rim that triumph one looks a little on the skinny side. A bit like the othe British junk
BTW Bob,did you see my post for you here: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/took-nice-cruise-31-dh6-today-328448.html#post1036242
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I do not mean to come off as the "threadmaster". A different topic should be started by a new post or it will get lost in the original thread. Just a forum etiquette thing not to mention courteous. Go for it and start a new post about "Where did you find your Dodge Brothers vehicle?". I am certain there will be hundreds of replies that we would all be glad to read.
I know, I was just pulling your chain
Still, I do like a good rolling thread loosely based around something not too specific. Throw in a few good sub plots, and you have a best seller!
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I think with the condition of your car and assuming you are not a rich man whom can pay whatever is being asked for any part you need you may want to consider settling with as close as you are able to do otherwise you may never be able to enjoy seeing it on the road.
Do the best you can and have fun with it, that would be my advice
You assume correctly and that is the plan. I will have to cut corners to get it up and running. I have no illusions about that. Availability and cost of parts being the crucial factor. I've got more than enough to do right now that can be achieved on the cheap but with little bits like this I think I can get a great outcome that will fool all but the toughest of scrutiny. Further down the track my finances will free up a bit and I'll be able to really do the final product some justice.
just bought a 1935 Dodge 5 window coupe
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Or some flash pictures....